Good review of the two basic chuck types. Good point about not misplacing the key to a keyed chuck. Apparently manufacturers have not standardized key design and if you loose one you may not be able to find a replacement. I have a keyed chuck now and it works well enough but if I find I need to replace it I will get a keyless chuck. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
Good info Mike. I've put rare earth magnets on all my tail stocks so when I'm drilling I can stick the key on them. When I finish drilling I always put the key in the jaws so it stays there. Saves you from digging through the shavings! Take care, Dave
Good info Mike. Added to this discussion or maybe is the accuracy of a sleeve to use drill chucks to meet morse taper in the headstock or tailstock. Perhaps a suggestion for another video, is the use of morse taper drill bits, over other drill bit types. including to provide accurate drilling Take care all and stay safe and well Cheers my friend Harold
I just made a handle for a Jacobs chuck to do some hand drilling with the lathe, I found a keyed chuck on Amazon with a 1/4 hex for using with a drill and made a handle for it. I think the keyed chuck holds tighter and is more secure, but you better not lose your key lol. FYI, don't go bigger than a 1/2 drill bit when handheld drilling 😂😂😂 I tried to use a 1.5 inch forstner and it snatched the whole thing out of my hand.
hello friends greetings healthy and successful always. thank you for sharing knowledge and always faithfully watching your latest stuff I like your ideas
Probably doesn’t matter when wood working but when using a keyed chuck you are really supposed to lightly tighten each hole a little at a time. Rotating to the next keyhole. All 3. That centers what every you have in the chuck and giving it maximum clamping. I see a lot of folks use only one hole even on a drill press. Had to comment, its the old aircraft metalsmith in me. I’m still not convinced on keyless chuck. They seem to wobble in my tail stock. Like I said, not so critical in a wood lathe unless you do pen drilling in acrylics on it. Good video Harold
Great video as always thanks. For those sub 1mm drills I like to use a pin chuck collet holder held in a regular Jacobs chuck, it works well. I'm also experimenting with using drills directly in MT2 draw bar collets as I am drilling the end of long spindles and don't have the bedway length to use a jacobs chuck. Of course you have to buy a collet for each size drill, but they are fairly inexpensive. Am also tempted to get a couple of 10mm MT2 draw bar collets for the most common size Forstner bits that I use, but I'm not sure whether this is a wise move ( thinking it might spin in the morse taper and mar it (?)
One of the reasons I have two drill chucks is so I can quickly and easily switch between two drill bits. For example, when drilling I like to start with a 'center drill bit', before switching to a standard twist bit. Center bits are short and stout, making drilling precisely centered holes simple and easy. With two drill chucks, I can have one with the center bit and the other with the standard twist bit. If I'm just drilling one blank, I probably won't bother with this. But, if I'm batching out a bunch of blanks, I really like this approach.
Hey Mike Betty here a new wood turning membertrying to learn. I have a harbor freight which is good enough for me till I see if wood turning is a go for me. my question I saw you put a handwheele on the head stock which is what I want to do and I think I can. At the headstock a wheele that fixes the HF lathe does have a i beleive 3/8 as you can tell I have't completely figured it out yet.
Like Jacob, I made a handle for my Jacobs chuck key, and it always goes back into the hole next to the tail stock of my lathe. Big tools with handles are generally harder to lose than small tools although I seem to be able to lost almost anything in my shop. My drill press came with a keyless chuck, and I find that I have a great deal of difficult centering small bits in it. Clearly, part of the problem is that I can't see the end of the chuck when inserting the bit, but I suspect that the fact that its an inexpensive Harbor Freight drill press may also be a factor. Regarding draw bars - they are fine except that a drill chuck that has a separable arbor can still come apart - there is nothing to hold the JT-33 taper inside the chuck body. For that reason, I rarely use my Jacobs chuck in my headstock. For mounting very small bits, I prefer using a pin mandrel. I bought one many years ago thinking that I could use it to drill coding holes in 4x5" film holders - I never used it for that purpose, but it's great to have when I mount a #65 drill bit to drill a breather hole, for example in a tool handle where I want the hole for the shank to be very snug, but I don't want to have to struggle to insert the shank into the handle - having a breather hole in the side provides a way for air to escape when I press the tool shank into the handle, but the hole is so small that it's not really visible after the handle has been completed. I normally hand hold the pin chuck, but I could also mount it in a drill chuck if that is necessary.
Greatly appreciate your continuing educational efforts. Do you have any experience, thoughts about end grain turning with a hook tool? I have much difficulty with end grain looking for advice. Again thank you.
Personally, since I do few hollow forms, it would be an unnecessary expense since I already have a hollowing system. For boxes I think they are overkill. Some folks love them.
I have used some keyless in a machine shop that were ok. for portable drills and cheaper chuck. I HAT KEYLESS I have to use chanel locks to get the tight enough.
