Maybe I'm not seeing things right....but this engine appeared to need the "stair stepped" tab and not the flat tab as shown. As you can see when he tightened the bolt down it bent the tab greatly out. There are differences in these B engines. Some have a flat surface across to the pin bore and on some the pin bore is in a different plane than the flange face of the bolt. While this may still work OK...it's not right in my book. Besides the tab...old timers used to tap the pin back to bottom out, shoot some wicking loctite green in the bore and peen the bore inside with a punch. Just as effective and free...besides the gasket and crank seal. This is how I fixed mine. Some but not all 24V ISB 5.9L's had a lip edged inner bore so the pin couldn't come out. But only visual verification can tell you if you have this case cover. No serial number or date can prove it as verified by Cummins.
It will work just fine the way he did it. Some people just get a fender washer, cut it into the shape of the tab, bolt it on and then tap it down like he did. As long as it prevents the dowel pin from coming out, it's all good.
6:59 Dust Shield. I thought that was an oil slinger? Whatever it is, is this item install on the inside or outside of the seal? Do I put the ring on the shaft before I put the cover on (oil slinger) or put the ring on the shaft after I put the cover on (dust shield)?
hey does anyone know if you can do this KDP fix without have to jack the engine out of the truck? I was thinking you could probably take the grill off and radiator and whatever else so you can see, let me know. thanks
Killer pin trouble ended in 2002 models ( 24 valve ) It had begun in the mid year of year 98. I’m talking about the 5.9- 24 valve. It so happens I have the 98.5, 24 valve and its killer pin was approximately half way out. And now I’m having a problem getting it to go back in.
