Klutch ST201iDV, Cheap TIG and Stick Welder Review 

It really is one of the best value machines I've tested.

​@bigtb1717 Do you remember what the max setting in stick mode was on 120v ? I have two of these now and they max out @ 85 amps on 120v in stick mode. The site states "120 amps stick mode, 130 amps tig mode on 120v"

Also, the tig on both will only initiate with use of the pedal. Neither unit will function in tig mode without use of the pedal. Did you use it without the pedal ?

@@floridastate3247 someone on another channel (i can't remember where) figured out the pin out for the pedal and you can now buy and use a "Tig Button" hand controller.

Took me around a month to get this one after I ordered it.

did you do any upgrades to your welder, as in the foot pedal and torch?

I agree. I love a lot of Miller machines. There are a few that just feel nicer to use than just about anything else. They are also crazy money. But for the money a Thunderbolt 160/210 costs, I'd buy this Klutch for sure.

I'm not sure how common the connector is. I plan to eventually measure the potentiometer in the pedal to see what resistance range it uses.

As far as I know, the max output in stick mode on 120V was always 120A. 120V input only allowed 130 amps of output in TIG mode. I may not have been super clear about that in the video, but I do mention the output being lower in stick mode. The model I have has a max of 200A and 130A in TIG mode (for 240V and 120V, respectively), while stick mode maxes out at 180 and 120 amps on 240 and 120V.

It seems like a lot of things are backordered these days. I don't doubt it is popular, but it's hard to get a lot of things right now.

@@bigtb1717 And Northern Tool reports back that the MP230SiDV does not feature Power Factor Correction, btw.

I don't know if SSC makes a pedal specifically for this machine, but I'm sure it's possible. You could probably contact them and see what your options are. My guess is that it would work on 50 Hz, but I can't say for sure. I'll look at the data tag on the welder when I get a chance and see if it says 50/60 Hz.

@@bigtb1717 thanks

I'll have to test the open circuit voltage when I get a chance. I did find this welder to run 6010 surprisingly well, but I'm certainly no pipe welder. I'll test the open circuit voltage when I get a chance. I did find the max output claims to be accurate. I can't remember if 120 amps of output on 120V input was just for TIG, or if that was for stick as well. I feel like stick output was slightly lower, but I'll have to double check that as well.

Anything over 90 amps will cause issues on a standard breaker, atleast in my experience.

@@BudMasta The problem is that the panel itself is from the mid-70s, mostly has GE type breakers, and is close to maxed out as is . I've already got a 20/20 240v installed running to a separate receptacle for my 60 gallon compressor. It seems, in my small-brain unprofessional opinion, that my only option is to tie into the very bottom of the panel (30a HVAC, basically) using a GE Quad 30 assuming I can even find it or MAYBE jump back up to the top of the panel and use a square D 20/30. Landlord has been super cool about panel add-ons, but I honestly just might have to wait till I move before I really get to make full use out of this welder's capabilities due to this panel's age and bare minimum, shade-tree wiring the landlord did 😒

I kinda doubt you'd have much success improving the pedal if you take it apart. Honestly, it might get a little better with use as things wear in and the grease pushes out of the gears a bit. After paying close attention to the behavior of the welder, I think it may be a combination of factors. I think the welder may have a small number of steps in terms of remote amperage control.

@@bigtb1717 Do you mean that the pedal is supplying analog response to operator input but the circuitry in the machine recognizes only a small number of discrete steps?

The pedal is not just an on off switch. It does control amperage. It doesn't have super fine control, but it definitely controls the amperage. I don't know of any other pedal for this welder, unfortunately. I may try to find other pedal options at some point, but I haven't had a chance yet.

Fingertip amperage controls absolutely exist. There are multiple styles including sliders, vertical and horizontal wheels/knobs, and more. Unfortunately there is nothing specifically for the welder. If you could find one with the correct resistance you could install the correct connector and it should work. But there is nothing ready-made for this welder as far as I'm aware.

It should be possible, but as you say, it would likely take some "adapting." I don't think they make a specific torch switch for this welder (I could be wrong though). When I get time I'll check into it a little.

@@bigtb1717 I appreciate it. I would buy it just for 6010 and the accurate power level readings. I also want to try and set it up for pulsed stick welding using the TIG setting. the 6061 youtube channel showed this off in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YzD0riaTXiw.html would be an incredible field repair option with this welder.

What leads you to prefer Everlast? Just curious. I don't have extensive experience with either one.

@@bigtb1717 I am biast, as I've been only happy with my purchase, and they hooked me up with a new model fresh off the boat cause they were currently out of stock when I ordered mine. End of year sale, shipped to my house, less than 575 for the 200 amp DC tig. But generally speaking I think it's worth that price overall even without them having nice customer support that was real honest about how long it could take to get to me. I have no complaints about the build quality, I dont really break them down like you, but after watching countless reviews I did look it over probably more than others. Tig torch was better than expected, came with the sleeve and button already installed and I like the stinger it comes with, even if it's not miller quality. The nobs feel quality on the display. My only real complaints are the power switch feeling flimsy and not coming with the economy pedal that everlast offers. 5 year warranty also is a huge plus.

Hey, nothing wrong with having a preference. Thanks for sharing.

It still works fine. It really doesn't have a lot of use on it though.

I've never done any pipe welding. I'm not against trying it, but I might not be the best comment on how well or poorly a machine does at welding pipe, since I have no experience and it's likely to go poorly for me one way or another, lol. I'm open to giving it a shot. I'll see if I can get some pipe test kits so I can try some pipe welding. If I manage to get some I'll let you know how it goes.

@@bigtb1717 thanks man, appreciate it!!

When I get a chance to test this out, I will. I'll test the draw when running 90 amps of output in stick mode and let you know. Heck, I'll even try running it on a 15 amp circuit. It will be at least the weekend before I get a chance to test this though.

@@bigtb1717 alright, thank you. I do have a 30 amp dryer outlet, but I will probably need an adapter or something.

I do still have it, but admittedly, I haven't used it in a while. I have considered making a follow-up video about it. I may at some point.

glad to hear thanks!@@bigtb1717

It's been a while since I've messed with this welder, but I was considering making a follow up video. I don't think it's 44 lbs. Maybe the entire package, including the cables and everything. I'm guessing more like 20-ish pounds. But I'll weigh it when I get a chance.

@@bigtb1717 I bought one! It weighs about 17 lbs base-- very pleased.

@@adamr4740 Cool! Sorry I didn't get around to weighing it.

@@bigtb1717 No worries! I just did a bunch of SMAW testing on it and I am very pleased with this welder. The stinger that comes with it, while seemingly a bit chintzy, is actually quite nice and light. I have only run it on 240 so far, but it's done great with 1/8" 7018 and 1/8" 6010. I did a bunch of 3G 1/8" 7018 with it and it was a treat to run-- literally perfect. It does kill the arc on 6010 really quick if you try and long arc just a hair too far, but it lets it go plenty long enough to be functional on open root, just got to be careful. I definitely would prefer if it would hold that arc rather than kill it, but I can't complain too much. I tried running a 5/32" 7018 on it at full blast and it did run it, but not well and you could tell it was struggling. The arc force and hot start adjustment is perfect on it. I have some 3/32 7018 in the mail and will try that on 120V this weekend, but so far I am extremely pleased with this little stick machine. I will run it through its paces on TIG too and report back. So far though, I have to admit this is an excellent 240V stick welder for an incredible price.

I don't think it does have any up/down slope settings.

I guess you don’t need it because your creating your own slope from the pedal. I’ve looked at many cheap welders and kept coming back to this one. Everything I need and more plus the business is local with a good warranty. Thanks for the video, it really helped make my decision.

I'm happy I could help. I hope it works out for you. I agree, that if you are using a foot pedal, you don't need up and downslope. Mainly it comes in handy if you are using a torch switch or some other on/off arc control, rather than a variable control.

This is a DC only TIG welder, so it's not good for aluminum. Generally, AC TIG is used for aluminum.

@@bigtb1717 Thank you for the information It's greatly appreciated. I'll keep trying to find a good value TIG welder then. Just gotta make sure it's AC.

Klutch does use that specific term (PFC - Power Factor Correction) but it isn't a term they made up or anything. Power factor correction is just that: it is an attempt to correct a low power factor in order to bring it closer to 1 (unity). This brings the apparent power closer to the real power. A poor power factor will result in a much higher "apparent" power and that means the supply circuit will have a higher amperage on it than what the "real" power might suggest.

@@bigtb1717 Ah, good. Klutch didn't decide to use some terminology of their own creation to describe Power Factor Correction, which is the common-use term. Some manufacturers will invent a term to describe the circuit or feature they install on a device, to insinuate that no other competitor's device has such a circuit or feature. A closer look at Power Factor Correction is probably beyond the scope of this particular product review, but the topic itself is, perhaps, worthy of its own video? It could be titled "Why Your Welder Should Have Power Factor Correction," and delve just a bit more into how and why AC circuits that contain inductive elements in which current is out of phase with voltage can feature both resistance and inductive reactance. Some people who weld may wonder why their particular welder model or brand is more prone to tripping a circuit breaker, and appreciate learning about Real Power, Apparent Power, what is happening as the magnetic field in the inductor is expanding and collapsing, and why they want their welder model to have Power Factor Correction.

I have thought about getting a power quality analyzer for years. It would allow me to show what is actually going on and explain it a bit better in a video. It would also let me easily test and compare different welders. I know it's possible to test power factor in cheaper ways, but it get's a little tough when you are talking about a welder that might draw as much as 50 amps. Plus, a power quality analyzer would allow me to show graphically show what is going on. A video just on power factor is probably beyond what most people really care about, but it could be interesting. I'll think about it.

A remote fingertip button isn't included. I don't know if they actually sell one at the moment or not. Normally it would mount on the torch and allow you to turn the arc on and off by pushing that button. But, the "Maintained" control is basically the equivalent 4T control. If you were using a fingertip control button it would normally turn the arc on when you push and hold the button and turn the arc off when you release the button. "Maintained" is like 4T, which means you would press and release the button to turn on the arc, then press and release the button again to turn the arc back off. This would allow you to weld for an extended time without having to hold the button down.

@@bigtb1717 does it also turn the argon flow on and off?

Yes. Just like the foot pedal, except you can't control the amperage. The amperage will just be whatever you set it at when using a control button like that.

@@bigtb1717 so without the other torch (Northern Took does list it for $119.95) you can only use it with the foot pedal

You can use the included foot pedal or you can use lift start and not use the foot pedal.

Mine took well over a month to arrive. Unfortunately, there are major shortages on a lot of stuff these days. I really hope Northern Tool isn't intentionally giving people the run-around, but I know a lot of stuff is slow right now. I ordered a Miller welder earlier this year and it took about two months to ship. I ordered some welding cable three months ago and it still hasn't shipped. I ordered a Rode microphone that estimated 2-4 weeks before it would ship. It has been two months and it hasn't shipped. Don't get me wrong, I'm not defending them if they are being dishonest. But it's entirely possible the shipping dates are getting pushed back on the other end for them too.

And one little point I'll give to Northern Tool: I wasn't charged for the ST201iDV until it shipped. The stuff I mentioned in my other comment, I was charged for the moment I ordered it, despite being months before any of it shipped (still waiting for the welding cable and mic to ship).

Thanks for the reply! Yeah I can understand, the whole world is on backorder, so I get it. I'm just frustrated being told one date, then it comes and goes. However I'm running out of time and I'm considering the Primeweld CT520D now. What are your thoughts? I'm fairly new to welding and my primary interest is tinkinering with TIG. Are the lack of tig features worth the trade off for a plasma cutter? (Mostly hobby welding and the random fixes that come up time to time)

Unfortunately, I haven't used any of the Primeweld stuff, so I can't say one way or another if it's any good. In general, plasma cutters are awesome, but it's not something everyone will use much. Just depends on the types of projects you get into. Where about are you located?

For now I'm building window well grates and fixing the exhaust on my truck so it will be little projects like that, then maybe some random artsy type stuff. I'm in Idaho

I do, but I haven't used it in quite a while. I've had loose plans to make another video with it at some point, but haven't gotten around to it.

@@bigtb1717 would you sell it ?

Where about are you located? I only ask, because when I've shipped welders in the past, the shipping was a bit extreme.

@@bigtb1717 FL 33065 do you have an email address i can reach you at ? i don't see one at your channel Thanks

There is an email listed on my channel. bigtbcontact@gmail.com

@@bigtb1717 i find it i sent you an email