Appreciate you taking the time to show us Newbie’s the basics of knife sharping ,It’s so important to learn the correct way starting out before you move on to the next stone . Really enjoy all ur down to earth videos making us think as you said in one of ur videos ( Do I really need all these knifes ? ) saying is it just the hunt of the next knife that makes us happy? Please keep these videos coming as it brings joy to our souls to learn & discuss our love for knifes .Howie 🔪
I bought my kme deluxe and added the diamond set films after watching arm wresting videos and stumbling across KK. You made a believer out of a guy who wasn't even looking to sharpen a friggin knife hahahhahaha.
3.5 years later, I appreciate this video. I always wanted to get the KME system and this video reaffirms the thought that I don't need to buy every stone/attachment available off the bat.
In your 101 video, you clamped the knife fairly straight. In this one you use the imaginary heel-to-tip line. Would you recommend using the heel-to-tip line method for all blades with a belly? Can you suggest how you would go about clamping a CRK Umnumzaan and Sebenza with the drop point blades? Thanks!
Freaking excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to go ALL the way through the process. Everybody else fast forwards it, or cuts out footage. I really needed to see this. Thanks again.
Another nice demo! I just got my KME sharpener, and this vid helps alot with starting out! Hoping you can answer one question: How much pressure are you putting on the stones while using the kit, heavy pressure, or just basically just using the weight of the stone with a quick up and down motion? Keep up the good work!
I would same medium to lite pressure. Medium or more with the low grit stones. If you need yo remove lots of metal. High grit stones lite pressure. I’ve always used more pressure than just the stone weight. Thanks for watching.
Been looking for a while. This video just sold me on this system. Had a 5 stone lansky and it worked ok. This seems so much better. Will be ordering the deluxe kit tonight. Thanks
Like many other folks, I really wish I just got one of these instead of messing around with the lansky. The Lansky system is fine for what it is, but it really has a lot of shortcomings when compared to the KME. Then you have the Wicked edge, which imo is waaaaaay overpriced when you compare it to the KME. Sure it does both sides at once, but how much wasted material is coming off because you're not feeling for a bevel?
Hey, you mentioned that on a very dull knife you dont really want to wait for that burr, but I remember you said in a previous video that even if you fond that burr on the other side, you should keep on going until both sides have equal looking bevels...what do you think about this
Thanks for the Gitr Done video. I won one of your knives on a give a way. Very sharp and nicely stone washed. Thanks for sharing your skills with all of us.
I've tried so many knife sharpeners and got poor results but I haven't tried the KME. Watching this video has given me a renewed desire to give this setup a try.
Hey Matt, could you possible do a video on how to correct uneven bevels/off center edge on each side of a knife using the KME? would be greatly appreciated!!!
Say for example my knife is not butter knife dull,I mean it's sharp,but not sharp sharp,will I still need to use all for diamond,or can touch with 600 to 1500? Still new to sharpening.
I watched your 101 video and you put the blades in so that the flat portion of the edge was parallel with the edges of the jaws, but I see you have this one angled in this video. Any reason in particular?
I bought the basic KME system a couple of months ago mainly on the recommendations of everyone on the internet. However as soon as I got it I became overwhelmed by it. This video showed me that it's pretty simple and I should finally use it. Thanks!
I plan to get a KME system. My goal is to put a ripping sharp edge but a "mirror finish show edge" isn't necessary. Some of my knives belonged to my dad and grandfather, old but very nice hunting and folding pocket knives with nice steel. Many of the knives are very dull and some even rusted do to water damage. My other knives are very high quality kitchen knives German steel used daily. My question, given my needs which kit a long with accessories ( if needed) would you recommend with out going over board? Thanks Great Vids!
When I flip my kme over to the other side of the knife theres a wider space where the clamps meet at the 2 detent balls so one side of the knife has a smaller bevel then the other. Can't figure out why . Just got the KME today..
Hey man don’t know if you going to answer butt hope you do, I basically do everything you just did but why the up strokes ?? Does it really affect if I don’t do them ?
I am getting a KME system for my 40th birthday next week so I am watching your video's to help me get started. I have used a Lansky for a couple of years but it is time to step up. Just a few short questions. I see people using the diamond hones wet and dry. Is the one method better than the other for results and/or the longevity of the stones? The second question is whether or not to use water or oil on the lapping films. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for watching. Don’t use water or oil on the diamonds stones. The diamond particles will build up in the slurry on the blade and scratch it. Use honing oil with the lapping films.
Thanks for this simple video showing the basic kit. I've been drowning in information about all the technical ways of using the KME with the seemingly endless accessories you can get for it. I'm sure once I buy one I'll be interested in all the techniques and extra toys to take things to the extreme, but as a beginner this has helped me make up my mind that the KME is the sharpening system I'd like actually purchase. Although I'm still trying to justify the $200 price tag since due to only owning about $200 worth of knives at this time. lol
I'm looking into getting a guided system to sharpen my knives and this KME looks really promising but I have a question that I hope you can answer. I mostly collect traditional style knives which can sometimes have very small blades. How does this sharpening system work with blades that can be as small as 1 1/2 inches long and 1/3 inches from spine to edge? Does the clamp work well on blades as small as these?
Generally if the knife just needs a touch up, a strop should do it. You might can start with say the 300 in some cases, but if it’s dull enough to sharpen it. Start low enough to get your apex quick. And work your way through the stones. You don’t want to over work your high grit stones.
Hurts my soul whenever I see anyone active hurt the edge lol great video my friend! Might switch to this kit or wicked edge from my good ole Lansky kit
Man.... It really seems like the contraption itself would be fairly simple to make yourself with some minor builders skills, just the clamp is throwing me
I was going to ask these questions over in the Edge Snobs Facebook group but it looks like either I got booted for whatever reason or the group no longer exists. So far I've only been sharpening at the factory angle (removing sharpie) and never really paid attention to what the actual angle I was sharpening at. I don't know why this information is so hard to find but are the markings on the KME dps or inclusive? Also just to verify, the angle indicator on the part that moves is the top edge of the bracket and not the center of the ball, correct?
Hello. I have had the KME system for about 3 years or so. I really like it. However, I have some play between the base and the sharpener itself. Meaning the cylinder that is screwed onto the base does not match up exactly with the actual sharpener. In this video, it appears you have something different. Does it reduce the wiggle between the sharpener and the base and, if so, what is it? This can mess up my angle measurement between the base and the sharpener, when I zero out the angle cube. By the way, I played this video numerous times to learn with, when I first got it. Thanks for that very much.
This is the same post at comes with the base. I understand your complaint with this. This is one of the problems with the KME. This should be improved on future models. But I’m not sure if KME will. Thanks for watching.
I don't believe you could sharpen my ule or larger than kitchen knives. But for most knives it works fine. Thanks for showing. Agree about first stone to being burr
I did exactly what you mentioned at the 04:30 mark on the last knife I sharpened and now one of my bevels is a tad bigger than the other. Does this effect functionality, strength or edge holding? Or is it, hopefully, just not eye pleasing? Thank you for any response.
It will work fine. Some people don’t like the bevels uneven. Just sharpen the smaller bevel side more and it will make the larger side smaller. Keep watching until it’s corrected. Thanks for watching.
For the money, the KME is great. It's the only sharpener I can get my knives very sharp with. That's my fault and I don't know why, but the KME with a bit of practice even with just using the basic kit as shown here, I can now have my knives pass my sharpness tests. I big part of passing the complete tests is that the very tip must have a point that slices with ease. Just about all my knives failed that test even when new. it actually takes focus and a method to get the tips great.
My guess is he made the base. Looks like he’s got his logo on there. It would be cool to maybe go over that real quick. And then tell us how he got that major scar across the top of his right hand? Yikes! Great no nonsense video. 👍🏻👍🏻
I just saw a video where you went through your custom bases and talked about Louis Clark. Thanks a lot for the info. Good videos. Had my KME for about 1-2 weeks. It's awesome! Have a good one!
Lately been wanting to get knives as sharp as factory new and started to watch videos . Got a few Case folding knives as well as a Crescent and Dewalt ones . Just got a higher end Buck fixed blade one with S35 VN steel . knives are just very handy to have . I've used an old sharpening stone to the ones that you hold with one hand then run blade thru those narrow V slits to hone / sharpen them . The stones might get them sharper than the other way though not quite factory new . Might get a diamond one to a Lansky stone
Love this video. I'm an E.P. guy. I'm seriously considering getting a KME. Just for the clamping system on it. And how do I get a knife crazy sticker? Keep up the wonderful content
I just snagged one used from ebay, $125, plus shipping and tax came to just under $150. It has the base and some film, I know you talked about a knob upgrade in another video. Can you link me a cheap one from Home Depot? thx.
Great video. Thank you for sharing it. I have a problem with the KME. I am getting micro abrasions or scratches on the blade behind the edge when I use it. I never used to get this when I used a Lansky. I am afraid to use it on a quality knife so I have been limiting it to SAK's, but the issue seems to repeat. I can't figure it out. What am I doing wrong?
To put a good quick and dirty edge on very dull but not really damaged high-quality kitchen knives which stones would you use and what basic technique? Also only for demo proposes would it be possible to do a video on sharpening an actual butter knife?
Start with the 140 grit if you only have the basic kit. Use the same technique you would use for any other knife. Find the Apex flip back-and-forth go through the stones
I struggle with my Lansky with traditional old school slip joint pocket knives. I will get one side done but when I flip it over and start, the knife tilts downward because of the tapered clamp, the stones make it fall down. I have heard of people shimming their Lansky clamp and I even saw a video of a guy with a 700 dollar system and he had to shim his clamp. Could you please make a video using the KME to sharpen a smaller knife such as a Case Trapper or a old Barlow knife? Is the KME clamp superior to others? Thanks
If you're talking about the aluminum, hand-held, Lansky clamp, I found it's MUCH easier if you replace the thumbscrew nearest the knife with a phillips screw but leave it loose for now; then, put your knife in the jaws and adjust the REAR thumb screw until the jaws are parallel with the part of the knife you're clamping on. Once you get the jaws parallel with the face of the knife, tighten the phillips screw with the PROPER SIZE screwdriver (very important or you'll strip it) and really crank down on it. Don't overdo it, though, since the threads are aluminum after all. Doing this way, I was able to securely clamp my skinny Swiss army knife blade without any problems. The key is getting the jaws as close to parallel as possible to the knife face; it makes a huge difference.
I want one of these systems so badly, my lansky does not like my spyderco full flat grind so haven't even attempted to sharpen it. Eventually I may be able to afford it but thinking this is the one I want!
Anyone try to re-profile a scandi to a shoulder to 0 edge, convex using the convex rod only? If so, did you reference the edge or shoulder ato the start of the process?
Thanks for doing a video on just the basic kit, Nice to know I can use just that to get scary sharp blades. I don't care for Mirror polish, I just want even consistent edges
Nick amen. I've sharpened knives to a mirror finish, it looks great. But it doesn't seem to last longer than the edge from the KME basic. Certainly not a big enough difference to warrant the extra work or money. At least for me.
Really wonderful video. I purchased the deluxe kit after watching an earlier video of yours but it's nice to know that even with the basic kit I would have all that I need. Thanks so much for this public service you've provided. KME should be paying you for such an excellent instructional of their products.
Technically yes. But, the first stone is the most important to establish a full Burr from both sides. After that, you don’t have to worry about the burr. It will make the burr on the higher grits automatically, just by sharpening back and forth.
