In this video, I demonstrate how to work intarsia colorwork on a garter stitch swatch, including my technique to keep the balls of yarn from becoming twisted. Find my knitting and crochet designs at www.ravelry.co... OR payhip.com/Car...
I have probably watched at least 20 videos on intarsia and read at least 5 blogs about it and this is the FIRST time I have seen someone do intarsia in garter on circular needles (like I am currently doing). So glad this video exists, it definitely explained why I had a gap or a weird bar over a stitch on the RS of my work. Thank you for this video! 2 years later and it’s still helpful!
Thank you for the great instructions. I appreciate the detail, in all my years I’ve never seen anybody pinch Their working yarn in between their fingers. …Very interesting how everyone has a different way to do it.!
This is so very helpful! I have two questions: 1) What is the technique for casting on with a color change working garter stitch to prevent gaps or divots in the cast on row? 2) In garter stitch, is there any other kind of trick to employ to avoid dash/dotted lines horizontally that show up visually on the front of the work when doing sections with color changes horizontally?
Apologies for the delayed response. I've had to take some time away these past few months and am now trying to catch up on messages. 1) Honestly, I just sort of made something up here since the cast on wasn't the focus of this tutorial. I used a long tail cast on for this swatch. I cast on 9 sts with red, then I draped the cream yarn over both strands of red, just under the needle, before casting on the 10th st with red. This trapped the cream yarn between the red yarn and the needle. Then I dropped the red tails, picked up the cream, and cast on 10 more sts. 2) You could force the horizontal dotted lines to the other same side of the fabric by working half the stitches in all-purl garter stitch, rather than all-knit garter stitch. So every RS row, regardless of color, would be p10, k10, and every WS row would be k10, p10. With the RS facing, the left half of your swatch would be entirely knitted garter stitch, while the right half would be entirely purled garter stitch.
I didn’t include the cast on in the video because it wasn’t necessary for the pattern this tutorial accompanies. However, for this little swatch, I just used a long tail cast on. I cast on my red stitches minus 1, then draped the cream yarn over both strands of red before casting on the last red stitch. This trapped the cream yarn between the last red stitch and the needle. Then I continued with the long tail cast on using the cream color. Hope that helps!
IT is better by changing colors to cut the yarn and start the new colors and do a weaving as you go. That way you don"t have that ugly two colored ridge on the front side
It all depends on the project! This tutorial was made to accompany my Breezeway shawl pattern, which uses a skein of sock yarn and a skein of mohair/silk, both in the same colorway for a fun textural design. Since the two yarns are the same color, those dotted lines at the color changes totally disappear. I only demonstrated it with different colors in this video so you could see what I was doing. So yes, you could cut your yarn each time, but I intentionally chose to do it this way to avoid weaving in lots of ends.
Not if you’re doing a border on a blanket for example, you don’t want to cut every single row! (That there’s a colour change)…. you need to have a running ball on each end of your knitting! Don’t you think it looks like more of a mess with a bunch of knots and weave-ins on the RS , than one broken line in an alternating color ?
