you probably dont care but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all the new series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend during the lockdown =)
Thanks for the detailed explanation, I've just followed the instructions successfully. Though I couldn't get my hand on an axle clamp I've used the saddle clamp of an unused seatpost with and old piece of thick BMX innertube as protection and to get more grip.
if you need to make these tools EASY... just clamp two pieces of aluminum, plastic, wood (use rubber to protect metal) ... then use drill bits make the tool the sizes you need
Good vid. Very detailed. Not a chance I would do this myself. Way too many specialist tools, fiddly bits that will likely go wrong. shows how complicated these posts are. Love my ks lev integra when it works. Goes back to KS when it doesn't
Thanks for the video, this isn't very difficult if you are careful and pay attention. My post would not operate unless you gave it a bump after leaving it sit for even a few minutes which bugged me. I found nothing was tightened up properly, apart from unscrewing the actuator from the small shaft to access the piston, I was able to unscrew everything by hand. I cut some pieces of rubber to use in my bench vice since I didn't have the block or strap tool. Everything is working great now, just be very careful if you use 'alternative methods' haha. BTW the 'specialist tools' are not expensive.
For the axle clamp, you can make a hole the size of the axle in a wood pieces, then split the wood piece in two to get two half pipes. Put the axle in this wooden device and the assembly in a vise like here.
If anyone is looking for an axle clamp (2.39) and can't find one I recommend using one of these from Amazon or any hard-wear store... "Leak Mate: Emergency Pipe Repair Tool. Stop a leak in Seconds. Leak Sealer. Reusable Temporary Seal" It comes with 10mm, 15mm and 22mm clamps. The 10mm is the one you need for this job. Cost me £15 in the UK and worked an absolute treat.
Easy enough service IF you can get the actuator removed. The actuator is screwed on so friggin' tight on the rod it won't budge even clamping down with soft jaws. Caused slight damage to the rod it was clamped to tight. Had to do the nail polish repair thing. Thinking my next post will be a 9 Point8. Any suggestions for getting that actuator unscrewed would be appreciated.
hello how you call the caliper pressure at which you hold the rod inside the cartridge great tutorial I changed the cartridge of my ks lev integrates thanks
I have a LEV Integra on my Kona Process 153DL. It looks like a bunch of oil has leaked out of it. Has something gone wrong with it? Do I need to send it in?
No Idea if you are reading these comments anymore, I'm having difficulties with my integra. The cylinder or pump what ever is getting really stiff. It's less than a year old. Should something like this be covered by warranty? Since as far as I know you are not supposed to service the cylinder assembly at all or at least not in the first few years.
Generally a good tutorial but as I learnt the hard way... when tightening the actuator assembly at the end be extremely careful and maybe only 1/16 past handtight. The casual 1/4 turn past handtight that he suggested at 14:38 is too much and i ended up ripping the threaded body off the assembly as its only made of a soft alloy and small diameter.
Oh god, this just happened to me, when I hand tightened it. Not even upon attempting the quarter turn. Bike is now out of commission for the week. Not happy.
My post had copper and plastic things in those grooves. Is that normal? The du bushing is destroying the plastic, but it looks like they did this to reduce travel somehow.
Hello guys my new ks lev just failed today its the one with the external cable routing i didn't even go for a ride on trails just some road riding.It was sticky out side the box but it worked and then it started not returning up without me helping it with my hand and after a while it developed an up and down play around 5 cm and then it was going all the way down without the lever.Now its back to that 5 cm play and its not returning up without me helping it.Can someone tell me what can i do ? i have the post almost a month less actually and i didn't even hit the trails just some road miles!!!!
So I have a 2016/2017 Integra. My actuator lever broke on the last ride. I am trying to find out if I can upgrade the mast and actuator as the part is no longer available.
It appears that’s a custom made axle clamp. Fantastic to recommend a custom made tool in your “how to” video making it completely inaccessible to everyone that doesn’t work for KS and have access to your one-off solutions. Well done.
I'd recommend using one of these from Amazon or any hard-wear store... "Leak Mate: Emergency Pipe Repair Tool. Stop a leak in Seconds. Leak Sealer. Reusable Temporary Seal" It comes with 10mm, 15mm and 22mm clamps. The 10mm is the one you need for this job. Cost me £15 in the UK and worked an absolute treat.
I had the same question. I thin you need to take the post apart even further to replace the oil inside the pressure cartridge. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ty04hG_NX0c.html
I've had a LEV and now a LEV Integra for the past 4 years. The entire seat clamp assembly on these posts is a creaky mess and should be redesigned. You have to regularly check the clamp bolts as they tend to come loose and the clamp plates are a bit thin and should be beefed up. The seat rail grooves on the clamp plates tend to wear over time and might need replacing in the longer term. I had to replace the plates on my LEV twice in 3 years due to the creaking of the seat rails. The clamp bolts on these posts are also a major source of creaks. The little round acorn shaped nuts ...instead of barrel style nuts other posts use are a pain. Older LEV versions use a smooth version of this acorn nut which would just spin in the nut pocket when trying to tighten the bolts. The newer LEV uses an acorn nut with a ribbed outer surface which gives them some grip in the pocket. If you have the older style I'd recommend replacing them. Finally, the clamp cradle (u-shaped piece at top of post) and clamp anchor ring (loose ring piece with two holes that the clamp bolts pass through) can get worn and be creaky too. I actually snapped the clamp anchor ring on my LEV while on a trip and ended up buying a LEV Integra to replace it. But its still the same seat clamp design. I tend to use anti-seize on all the metal to metal mating surfaces for good measure as well,including the seat rails. Grease works too but anti-seize stays in place longer - it's just messy.
Everything about these LEV integra posts are garbage. I've had mine a few short months and already have damage to the post due to normal use. Big Waste of money!
This is outdated and doesnt apply to newer dropper posts. There is no documentation for the newer ones, but they are not threaded at the seat collar. Best i was able to find is some russian guys video with the newer dropper design. DO not follow this for 2020 or later dropper posts.
I'd recommend using one of these from Amazon or any hard-wear store... "Leak Mate: Emergency Pipe Repair Tool. Stop a leak in Seconds. Leak Sealer. Reusable Temporary Seal" It comes with 10mm, 15mm and 22mm clamps. The 10mm is the one you need for this job. Cost me £15 in the UK and worked an absolute treat.
