Shows how to replace the countershaft oil seal on KTM off-road motorcycles using the Tokyo Offroad Countershaft Seal Press Too (CSPT). www.tokyooffroa...
I'm new to your channel and still catching up on your videos, but I can say I'm honestly impressed with your attention to detail and cleanliness. Very professional and very well done.
Very well done “how to” vid as always. And the tool looks very handy. Ive already had a chance to use your heim joint, wheel bearing and swingarm bearing tools with great results.
Another great video and one to refer back to while I work on my bike. I always check your videos for torque settings. Quicker then sifting through the maintenance Manuel
Great video. Thanks for the torq value 60nm too. Excellent way you do your job sir. Wish all mechanics applying same Heart while working on my bike, so i could be completely ignorant 😁 instead of learning constantly how to repair motorcycles
I learned to clean the threads in the shaft from personal experience. My bolt wouldn't seat all the way. Left the domed washer without enough pressure. That left the pressure off the spacer behind the sprocket and let oil pasted the oil seal.
The tool you made is brilliant! I had a local machinist make me a driver using some of the same principles (not that I'm brilliant, far from it). The seal sits on the smaller bit which is the same height as the seal, the center is bored so it slips over the shaft and the OD is larger than the seal so it can only go on flush. Mine is tapped on but I like the control of the bolt. Thanks for sharing. Liked and subscribed. Cheers!
Yes, the seals are quite tricky to install without a suitable tool due to the large size and it can be quite easy to damage them just if not careful. A suitable tool makes it so much easier.
@@stephanbaumann6713 - Thanks for your interest. The Tokyo Offroad Countershaft Oil Seal Press Tool is available for sale here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
I hear that in most instances the seal is fine, you just need a new dome washer to put pressure on the O-ring. The Dirt Tricks dome washer is a bit larger/thicker/stiffer, which should help also
Man I got a vine behind my front sprocket and it roached my countershaft seal. Luckily it didn’t start leaking until I literally got the bike in the bed of the truck. So I was able to lean it over and tie the bike down to stop the leaking. Got home, drained the rest of the oil, now im waiting on the new countershaft seal kit! That was a first for me. Usually I’ll let them go until they leak on their own then change them but this one had help!
Great video and explanation. The Dirt Tricks dome washer is supposed to fix this common problem. The washer gets too flat from being reused and just wears over time. Supposedly the Dirt Tricks dome washer is made of a lot stronger spring steel.
@@TokyoOffroad yes sorry should have finished watching before commenting. Also Mark any chance you can make a video of replacing the KTM fuel pump filter? Thanks in advance your videos are so helpful
I'm not familiar with the 790 Adventure. Typically countershaft seal leaks are either due to the seal wearing out after high hours in difficult conditions, the chain tension being too tight, or the countershaft sprocket being loose and not apply sufficient pressure to the internal o-ring to compress it and make a seal. As shown in the video it's pretty easy to fix and the required parts are relatively inexpensive. Note that the press tool shown in the video will only work on off-road models (EXC, EXC-F, XC, XC-W). The 690, 790 and 890 have a different countershaft design (nut is used to secure the sprocket instead of a bolt).
@@TokyoOffroad damn… yeah… an odd thing to have issues on so many models.. but after I showed interest on auction. They sent me a quote for shipping and added in.. ohh the bike has an oil leak that’s well known! 🤦🏻♂️ guess if I buy I need to fab or make a tool. I do have bearing installation tools.. see what others are doing..
I purchased the seal installation tool before it came with the bolt for for strokes. Can you tell be what size bolt you need? I couldn’t figure it out by the oem parts finder. Thanks.
The install difficulty is not getting the seal flush, rather due to the size of the seal it's easy to get it canted while driving it in and then ruin the seal. I've seen quite a few RU-vid videos of people running in to exactly this problem. Using the Tokyo Offroad press tool minimizes the chance of any install issues and makes it much easier.
Just a heads up. Loctite owner has been hard at work lobbying to shut down offroad trails in CO. Some riders would appreciate, if you didn't advertise them. Thanks for the video!
Could you quote what Jeff Slavens said about Loctite as I haven’t heard of this before. I did try Googling but couldn’t find anything. Note that I have no connection with Loctite and all of their products which I use I purchase at retail cost. I do not actively advertise Loctite products, simply share information regarding what product I use on my bikes.
Thanks for the link to the video. In it Jeff Slavens says "The dick who owns Loctite has been trying to shut down trails in SW Colorado". I'm wondering specifically who Jeff referring to. The owner of Loctite is Henkel AG (Loctite was acquired in 1997), but I'm guessing he doesn't mean Henkel. Currently the key Henkel Loctite executives listed are Robert Aller (CFO) and Louis Baccei President of R&D. BOD members are listed here: www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/people.asp?privcapId=285877 . So who is it that Jeff is referring to and were they using their own money, or corporate Henkel Loctite money to do the campaigning?
An over-tight chain will shorten the life of the seal. Yes, pressure washer pointed directly at seals is not good and will possibly force dirt into the seal.
I do sell the countershaft oil seal tool shown in the video on the Tokyo Offroad webshop, if you'd like to buy one: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/ The other option is to hammer in the seal using an appropriately sized socket, but it's very easy to get the seal canted. If this happens stop immediately and try to correct it, or you will ruin the seal.
really like the drive tool you,ve made, had exactly the problem you described, canting the seal tapping it in with a socket, and ended up worsening the housing scratches, someone else had also had the same problem previously on my 530.
The Duke - If the seal skirt is bent and distorted I recommend buying a new seal and try the install again. If the case seal seating area is scratched you can apply some thread lock to the seal skirt before install as I mentioned in the video. Installing the new seal straight using a socket and hammer is not easy which is why I developed the press tool. If you’d like to purchase one they are available on the Tokyo Offroad Webshop and happy to ship worldwide. If you’re going to use a a socket and hammer then I suggest you go very carefully and check the seal alignment after every tap.
Of course my replacement didn't come with a new crush washer.... However, I just replaced my sprocket and didn't remove the rear wheel, just turned the adjustment bolts all the way in, not sure how much easier it is but if you are replacing the front sprocket and/or chain you will need to do so anyway to get the adjustment correct. Also you can just use a zip tie to hold the chain out of the way. The lazy man usually finds the easiest way to do something or so I am told.
I used some medium strength blue Loctite 243 for this. I didn't want to use high strength as it would make future replacements more difficult (require heat to remove the seal). As mentioned in the video this is optional. If there are any scratches it's definitely a good idea...
@@TokyoOffroad Yes, red is too much. What I'm saying is that there is a locktight product (green) that works well for this sort of work, bearing journal fit, etc. It is very thin, and wicks into scratches like you mentioned might be in the case. Heat is not needed, despite locktights description saying it is medium to high strength. I use it all the time to help with bearing fit in bores that may be less than stellar, or where I want to be sure the inner or outer race stays put on the shaft or bore.
You should clean that area of seal before you taking old seal out for getting most of the dirt out. dirt can easily fell in especially laying the bike on its side like that... Other than that good video.
Thanks for your interest. Yes, the tool is available for sale on the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/countershaft-seal-press-tool-cspt/
da - The use of Loctite to retain seals of this type and bearings is common and not something I invented. The advantages of using Loctite include 1) It will hold the seal in place better and 2) If there is any minor damage to the case (scratches caused during seal removal) it will provide a better seal. Only a small amount of Loctite is required and you must be careful not to get any on the rubber part of the seal, as mentioned in the video. If Loctite 243 (medium) seal removal and bore cleaning will still straightforward. But it’s totally optional as I noted in the video.
Ya its really common to use low strength loctite to seal/glue metal seals in place. That being said using it on a rubber seal accomplishes nothing lol.
People should really try to be a better mechanic before posting comments. Your use of loctite, and description of why to use it is spot on on this video.
Thank you for the video. I'm actually doing this right now but dont have the tool to remove the seal like you did. Is there an alternative to this and also an alternative to fitting the seal back in as I do not have the tool as weel