KTM/Husky 2-Stroke Crankshaft Oil Seal Replacement 

I've always done my own maintenance on all the dirt bikes I've owned and really enjoy it. I started making these videos when some of my riding buddies wanted to do their own maintenance, but didn't know how and would often do more harm than good. It does take quite a bit of extra time to video the work and edit the video, but in general most people seem to find them valuable. The top end overhaul video I made 2 years ago has just over 1,000,000 views now so I guess a few people other than my riding buddies watched it ;-) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_dzYPpK3IVU.html

Best how to vids on the net, by far !

@@TokyoOffroad I have watched every video you have and I have enjoyed all of them. The video you made with your shop tools was great. The engine rebuilds is so helpful and I hope you can find time to do more engine rebuilds for us. Thanks again and stay safe and healthy in your riding adventures!

Using the primary gear as a press worked really well. Thanks for that tip!

Just did this last night and glad I saw your comment about using the primary gear to press the seal back into place evenly. It worked great!

This is super helpful! Going to try this week. Wanted to follow up on your methodology: When you "Reversed the primary gear" do you mean that you flipped it upside down of how it's supposed to fit corrrectly, then used that as a press?

@@axelav5 Going to try this week. Wanted to follow up on your methodology: When you "Reversed the primary gear" do you mean that you flipped it upside down of how it's supposed to fit corrrectly, then used that as a press?

@@dmarsh15 Going to try this week. Wanted to follow up on your methodology: When you "Reversed the primary gear" do you mean that you flipped it upside down of how it's supposed to fit corrrectly, then used that as a press?

Thanks for sharing the information. Good to know...

My 2023 did not have the lock washer either but the OEM parts diagram showed it. I decided to install it with the new lock washer and nut and the nut was able to thread on fully when the washer compressed so I think its fine.

Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos and also found the tool useful

I recently got an engine stand too. I'll be using mine soon on a new project bike. Looking forward to that...

Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.

I'll upload the idler gear bolt modification video tonight (Japan time). This is only an issue on 2017 KTM and Husqvarna 2 strokes. The clutch case design was updated in 2018 and a longer bolt is now used. Also this is only an issue if you use the kick starter. I don't use mine much and as such I haven't been in a rush to do the modification. However, it is useful having the kick starter sometimes (cold starting on winter mornings) and it would really suck if the case broke while you were kicking it.

Used to be shithole quality though..... lets not forget their humble beginnings with some of the worst bikes EVER.

@@Chugg.Norris Not exactly the big 4 had 'great' machines either.

@@mt1885 I mean... an 01 kdx shits on an 01 ktm anything. An 01 yz250 will smack any 01 ktm right in the face. Its really been the last few years ktm has stepped up its game. Old gas gas was better than old ktm. Dont be offended, I dont really care either way. But acting like ktm has always been the grail... yeah that's just SILLY.

@@Chugg.Norris Don't care about a 20 year old bike - enjoy

@@mt1885 ktm who?

Yes, I've heard of using a penny before. The Motion Pro tool cost is more than a penny, but it does work very well and has a magnet built in to it to hold it in position. But always good to know other options, especially in an emergency when you might not have access to special tools...

Sorry to hear that the install didn't go smoothly. Hope you were able to correct the canting and drive the seal in without wrecking it. Freezing the seal is a good idea and will help with ease of install.

@@TokyoOffroad After re-reading I had forgotten the "thank you" part of my original comment! So well, thank you! I mean to clarify that in my opinion it went very well minus the bit of fidgeting with the seal. I've boogered plenty of other things a lot worse. The seal popped back out easy when I did get it wrong fortunately.

Yes, there's more than one way to skin a cat ;-) I like the template method though as the cases you always need to flip them over to check the sealing surface before reassembly (and the bolts would fall out). Also I don't like having bolts in a case when installing it as they can hangup and complicated the assembly. It takes my about a minute to make the template and saves a lot of head scratching during assembly.

Pleased to hear that you find the videos useful. I use Permatex #80078 Anti-Seize

Interesting that the recommended torque values are higher on the 2014. My 2017 model manual states Clutch hub=73.8 ft.lb (100Nm) and Primary Nut=110.6 ft.lb (150Nm)

Pleased to hear that you found it useful.

100 hrs on my 250sx seals are sucking oil sucking air running lean then rich .Silencer has mung drippingnout of it.Trans low on oil

Thanks for your order. It’ll ship on Monday. I only have a video of the stator side oil seal when I overhauled the bottom end (seal was installed into stripped down case). Sorry…

Great. Hope you find it works well, Thanks for your business.

I hate that! That's always the biggest bitch of any project, isn't it? 🥵

I could do if you're stuck, but my recommendation is to purchase the necessary parts from your local KTM dealer.

I would follow the repair manual advice and use liquid gasket if specified. If you can't find Loctite 5910 then use an equivalent.

I have the same question. My bike is smoking alot and the engine feels lean at constant have throttle. Also the piston makes a huge noticeable knocking noise at the same RPM (have throttle). Can it be the oil seal leaning out the bike

Pleased to hear that you found the video helpful

Il check your other posts also thank you.have a few old bikes but this one i like' its street legal go anwere thanks

I've never personally used a Rekluse clutch. But in general, yes it's a good idea to change the clutch damper rubber regular (probably once a year is a good interval) and also use a new lock washer.

The right side crankshaft seal separates the crankcase (fuel + air + 2-stroke oil passes through) from the gearbox (transmission oil). If the seal starts leaking transmission oil will be drawn into the crankcase and be burnt, resulting in excessively smokey exhaust and also the transmission oil level will decrease.

I think it's a Motion-Pro item

Yes, take it for an extended ride and see whether it clears out...

Yes, it's a possibility. Another is if the carburetor is running too rich.

No, my exhaust wasn’t excessively smokey, so I think the seal was still OK. But considering the number of hours my bike has done (370H) I thought it was reasonable to change it at a convenient time. What were the symptoms and cause of your bottom end issue?

The primary gear nut (reverse thread) is 150 Nm and secured with thread lock. I think this would be challengingly to remove with an impact. I was also concerned about the vibration the impact makes which might cause the gear lock tool to move. Using a breaker bar for this job is the correct tool IMO. For the clutch hub nut (100 Nm and thread lock) an impact can be used for removal and I show that method in the DDS clutch overhaul video I made (link in description). In this video I decided to use a breaker bar to show it can be done for those without an impact. And of course an impact should never be used for tightening these nuts, only loosening.

Yes, you're correct. I do think it makes it slightly easier though doing it the method shown in the video and only adds about half a minute of time.

Yes, it is possible. I do know that some people have reported failures at similar low hours, although I wouldn't say it's common.

I don't think so. It's designed to lock gear teeth. The inner hub doesn't have any teeth. I made my own clutch holder tool, but similar holder tools are available cheaply.

Yes, both 250 and 300 are the same. All the part numbers stated in the description of the video are for a 2017 model. It's always best to check online on a parts list for your own year model before ordering. The same right side crankshaft oil seal (KTM # 0760385273) has been used from 1994 (couldn't search online older than this) through 2020 models.

@@TokyoOffroad thx, mine is a 2016 300

Yes, the most likely cause is that your crankshaft oil seal is bad and needs replacing.

@@TokyoOffroad This fixed it right up. Thank you for the great video. Ill be ordering your tool for the next time.

Yes, mine just slid off. If yours isn’t coming off by hand you could try using a gear puller.

@@TokyoOffroad That did the trick, thanks.

Having the same problem with mine, going to purchase a new geaar puller this afternoon

Thanks for your interest. I haven’t listed the tool on the website yet. I’ll do it later today and also post a link here.

I just listed the tool on the Tokyo Offroad website here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/ktm-husqvarna-crankshaft-oil-seal-press-tool-cospt/

Yep you are right. I think he will have a leak... And he'll need to pull it all apart again...

My experience so far has been that If a new gasket is used it seals OK without using sealant. But if you do experience leaks it’s easy enough to remove the cover and add some sealant afterwards. I prefer not to use sealant if possible as it creates a lot more work to clean off when overhauling, but will do so if necessary.

You don't put sealing paste on the gasket itself, but on the rubber thing through which the pv rod goes through. The experience with the newer ktm, especially with the 2020s has been terrible so far, all have an oil leak at the pv cover starting from the first hours. My 2017 had the first leak after I changed the piston, at 143h. Used a new powervalve gasket, of course. However, only after applying sealant on the rubber thingy which ktm calls "sealing carrier" I got rid of the leaking. And that thing is a three parts piece, one sealing carrier and two sealing elements.

@@lisimahus well my friend has a 2020 250 exc Tpi, but I haven't noticed any leak so far... But gottq check it

@@andrejskamla9736 he may very well be a lucky exception :)

The idler gear crankcase boss breakage issue was only with 2017 models. KTM updated the case design in 2018 models to fix this problem. I think the reason KTM removed the kickstarter on 2020 models was to save weight and cost...

@@TokyoOffroad ... Ok great thanks for the reply and clearing that up for me . I hate that KTM removed the kicker , I think it's not so heavy and that the riders may need the kicker in emergency times. I hate that they did that.

Although many people say they don’t miss not having a kick starter, if it was my bike I would fit one in case of an issue. It should be noted that the TPIs will not kick start with a completely dead battery, but a capacitor can be installed to allow this. If riding in remote areas then adding a kickstarter and capacitor is certainly worth considering...

@@TokyoOffroad ... Oh thank you for that info . maybe you can do a video on the capacitor and when it gos? Does that mean you can't push start it also ? I guess it does. Why in the world would KTM do this to the buyers, GGG

Ringo Gingo - Yes, if they battery is completely dead push starting is also unlikely to work. I’ll make a video to discuss this topic...

If the distance sleeve is reversed you'd be more likely to damage the oil seal when installing it. No point in redoing it, unless the seal is leaking...

@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for getting back to me so quick. That thought of doing it wrong and all over again woke me up at 05:30 this morning.

@@JackRandyTrace777 LOL. I know the feeling...

The gear has a shaft which passes through a seal in the case. The water pump impeller is attached the other side of the case and held on the shaft with a nut. To remove first remove the nut and push the shaft out. Note that there's a washer between the shaft and impeller.

@@TokyoOffroad I had a coolant leak from the water pump cover gasket. Took off the cover and found the impeller had some play in it when I moved it. So I got a wrench and tried to see is the bolt holding the impeller was tight. Well, the bolt broke right off with the threads. ( I barley put any pressure on it) Naturally I went in to deep depression. I have that part on order now. $300 later. So when you say its pressed in, will I be ale to remove it with out using a press to push it out? Will that whole gear thing just slide out of the case cover with hand pressure? And Im terrified of re installing that nut now. How weak is that shaft???? Thank you for your response.

@@sucapizda Sorry to hear about the breakage. You don't need a press to remove the shaft. It'll slide out using your fingers. It's probably a good idea to replace the seal when you do it to help ensure no leaks.

@@TokyoOffroad Yes I have the seal coming as well. Thank you for your help. Your video was actually very helpful. I appreciate it. Thanks again.

No, not unless you already have air in the clutch hydraulic system.

The stator side is smaller so one tool won't do both. I could make a tool for the stator oil seal side if though...

You can order the crankshaft distance sleeve from your local KTM dealer, or online. I don't know what year bike you have. The part number for the distance sleeve on my 2017 KTM 300 is 55430016000. sparepartsfinder.ktm.com/

@@TokyoOffroad thank you ☺️ mine is a 2000 ktm exc 250 2t

The most obvious symptom is an excessively smokey exhaust. You’ll start getting complaints from people riding behind you.

@@andrejskamla9736 on a gasgas2018 300 2st the are screen..when i saw it i also was surprised

also your transmission oil level will continually go down... like mine is.😪

Thanks for your order. Yes, it's available from the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: tokyooffroad.com/product/ktm-husqvarna-crankshaft-oil-seal-press-tool-cospt/ Your order will ship tomorrow. Hope you receive it quickly...

Every 15H

he is using a Tohnichi torque wrench www.tohnichi.com/torque-wrench.htm

All my torque wrenches (other than the digital AC Delco one I used in the video) are made by Tohnichi. You can see my torque wrenches half way through this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mLUxMKEMeug.html

From online parts list for your bike: 54830016000 SPACER SLEEVE 28X38X10

@@TokyoOffroad You’re awesome! Thank you!!

Wow, that's quick for the seal to goo bad. I just compared the 2017 300 vs 2024 300 parts and the crankshaft and oil seals are the same part numbers, so the Tokyo Offroad Crankshaft Oil Seal Press Tool is compatible too.

@@TokyoOffroad I know, I was so disappointed when I figured out what was going on. This is by far my favorite 300, never been happier with a bike. I'd assume defective seal or poor installation, I haven't got it apart yet

​@@tylerhall3854 Yes, that is very disappointing for it to go so quickly. If the seal is the cause I hope the replacement lasts a lot longer...

@@TokyoOffroad my parts are supposed to be delivered tomorrow, if I see anything crazy when I get it apart I'll let you know

You can’t remove the side case without removing it. The water pump cover bolts pass through the side case.

@@TokyoOffroad Just checked: The two rear bolts of the waterpump cover can remain in place, only the two front bolts need to be removed. Very nice video by the way!

It's not super critical. just so long as it creates a good seal on the distance sleeve it should be fine.

@@TokyoOffroad thank you for the reply, I'm not as worried now

It's a large seal and many people have trouble installing it using a socket as it can easily get canted. The tool I made locates on the crankshaft thus helping the seal get canted while being driven in.

I used transmission oil. The recommended transmission oil for my bike is Motorex Topspeed 4T 15W/50.

Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.

Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.

Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.

Thanks that makes sense. About to do my dry side seal so trying to figure out the best grease/oil to use on that side.

Yes, the spring side of the seal goes in (on the oil side). And that's how I installed the seal. Have another look at the video...

I’m confused, it looks like the way you put the seal in the tool that the spring is facing the crank side. Oil is sitting on the clutch side.

@@slowman9786 - Ah, no, I see what you’re talking about no (transmission oil). No, the orientation of the seal is correct in the video. The spring side of the seal goes in towards the crankshaft. You can see the original seal before removal is the same orientation…

Ok, just wanted to make sure. Mine was also like yours but my bike has had previous owners and there are mixed views on how this seal goes in.

@@slowman9786 I'm 100% sure of the seal orientation and is as shown in the video. It's the same on all KTMs I've seen.

Sorry, I don't have one at hand to measure right now...

@@TokyoOffroad Ok, because the old distance sleeve of my old 2000 exc 250 run in and burn some gear oil. You can't buy the proper distance sleeve for my bike anymore :( So I thougt that I can use it from the new models....

Sometimes they are a tight fit and don’t pull easily off by hand. If you have a gear puller use that and it’ll pop off very easily

@@TokyoOffroad if my seal doesnt have any visible damage could it still be bad? My bike has all the symptoms - oil on my swing arm, super smokey, boggy, low oil levels etc

@@TokyoOffroadthat worked so well thank you

@@TokyoOffroadmy distance collar is just as stubborn coming out - any advice for that?

I often use an impact for nut removal, but like you said never for installation. In the videos I typically use hand tools though, to show it's possible as some people don't have an impact.

There are various different types of cleaner. The one I use (Monotaro 2000 Brake and Parts cleaner) in my experience is safe on KTM wheel, frame and engine part finishes. I've used it for over 5 years on my bikes and never seen it affect painted finishes. Here is a translation of the product listing: Monotaro Brake & Parts Cleaner 2000 "Cleans dirt such as oil and grease adhering to brake linings, brake drums, mechanical parts, etc. Quickly and cleanly removes dirt such as oils and fats and carbon without scattering various dust generated from the brake device into the air. .. In addition, it is a cleaning agent that does not contain any chlorofluorocarbons and trichloroethane that cause ozone layer depletion and environmental pollution, and is not subject to the Organic Solvent Poisoning Prevention Regulations. Not applicable to Organic Solvent Poisoning Prevention Regulations. Non-fluorocarbon, non-trichloroethane. Cans can be used upside down."

Yep ktm had issues with this... My friend had to replace it on his 19 husky 300i.... Bike had only 45hrs... But every brand has its flaws....

Yes, that's not good. It doesn't appear to be a widespread issue though, at least not to my knowledge, although I have heard of a few early failures. For an early failure (which 60H is) I'd definitely discuss it with my dealer. Possibly there was an issue with the seal, or it was damaged during installation. If the seal is installed correctly it should last a long time...

@@andrejskamla9736 Meanwhile some 1980's bikes run for 200hours with original cranks and seals :) Nowadays you need to invent problems to be unique and "change" I guess..

How did you know when it failed? What indicators did you have?

andrewg367 bike runs way too rich and you can smell the gear oil burning from the exhaust, you’ll also use gear oil over time

LOL

I like the part where he drives it in