love the vivid colors, good lighting, excellent white balance. rarely see other vids with such attention to these attributes. plus high quality content. thanks for taking inviting us in to your shop.
Thank you! And thats why I film with a dslr and a descent lens. Complete and utter pain, but I think its worth it. I hope the audio gets also better, as I am recording now exclusively on a dedicated recorder - I still have background noise like the air dehumidifier, but I cant get rid of that.
You might be able to remove noise like that in software if it bothers you. I've never noticed it in your videos, but I don't typically listen with headphones.
"These boring heads are..... are , I love them" 😃 It shows. Very interesting video Stefan, I liked the look inside. So much nicer than the cheap ones. I would guess you paid about as much as a new cheap one. Score!
Best thing about Stefan is his never ending pool of love and enthusiasm for these machines. If i ever feel like a project isn't working out or i messed something up, i go watch his videos to make up for the gap.
Nice piece of tooling. The main problem with doing a half meter (20") bore @ 1000 RPM. is that the mill tends to jump around and chase you around the workshop.
Congrats Stefan, and thanks for a look at that beauty. I'm not sure about the other guys, but I would have liked an hour video on that Swiss watch of a boring head.
Love the quality of these. Watching a high quality tool like this being disected then reassembled. It is humbling as to the quality. Something to aspire for.
Hi Stefan, I have just bought a ultrasonic cleaner, and thank you for the tip about putting your parts in a glass jar, the part I wanted to clean was a Wohlhaupter collet chuck nut with bearing (cant be dismantled) and put it in a glass jar with some kerosene and water in the rest of the cleaner, Did not want to fill up the cleaner with kerosene, worked very well, and an added bonus to using a glass jar is that you can see afterwards what was comming out from the inner workings of the part.
Great video Stefan! My manual calls for Molykote BR 2 plus grease for the internals just like the Tin man stuff that was in there. I am amazed how good it works every time I use it. ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin! I have the manual too, and both the Wohlaupter and the Kuroda state to use grease, but the small oil passasges got me thinking. Maybe I am overthinking it. When I assembled it, I used MoS2 grease on all the moving parts, except for the dovetail slide.
@@StefanGotteswinter I put the grease in a syringe and it generates enough pressure to force the grease completely through the head including coming out the dovetail. The grease moves very slowly so I might have to hold pressure for 5 minutes or so before the grease starts to escape everywhere.
Stefan what a find! And a steal too lol. That looks to be a Rolls Royce or at least a Bentley quality tool. It may have flown over China on its way to Europe, but it certainly did not come from there. I bought on EBay an old boxed Mitutoyo imperial tenths finger type DTI last week and the quality astounded me. Such a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. That boring head is the same sort of quality work. I and many of your subscribers are jealous of you!
hi stefan i think this head also should have a rapid return for facing operations it is operated by a steady bar that locates in the drive ring and when you push the plunger on the bar it returns to another trip dog these heads normally have 2 trip dogs.
Not with the UPA3. (Or not this version). My UPA4 has a hex on the end to insert a handle for rapid return. A lovely touch on that UPA4 is that there are three balls in the hex socket that the hex key pushes back, releasing the drive screw. Pull the key out and it locks again, ready for use.
i had a kurdo ufb3 that had a rapid return function operated by a plunger on the steady bar.it was an automatic boring and facing head as opposed to a boring and facing head,i now have a d,andrea ts3 automatic boring and facing head and also a upa4s with the longer slide i dont use them as much as i want to but still a joy to operate them when their needed.
@@mickocallaghan4896 Thinking further, with the UPA3 (or the one in the video) if you pop-out the fine-feed plunger and pop-in the link plunger then continued rotation in the same direction does become a fast retract. The fine-feed plunger should automatically pop-out at the stop, so I suppose there is a fast-retract of a sort, though you should probably stop the spindle before engaging the top plunger.
As expected, it's a great video! The only thing I would have liked to see but didn't is how you lubricate the different parts before putting it back together. I would like to know which oil(s) you used, how much and where you used it. And also I would like to know how it should be maintained in the future in this regard.
Yes, I was disappointed that the video was quite abbreviated as far as the manual labor footage went. It was, however, comprehensive in that he explained a lot (without showing it).
Good job👍🏼 Now I’ve less trepidation to take my UPA3 apart; it has a sticky feed ring from old grease which I’ve been wanting to fix for some time now😃
3 years later, I finally got one today. Perfect condition, although missing the pin to lock the dials together. If I understand correctly, it doesn’t do much, you can hold both dials with the fingers, but I will try to make a new one. It came with a Deckel style MT4 with external thread, but this will be an easy fix. If I will be able to remove the adapter sleeve first :)
Kuroda's primary business is the manufacture of precision grinding machines. They also happen to own the Jena Tec Group which makes linear bearings and screws for precision motion control.
Really Nice boring head. Have the pleasure og owning a wohlhaupter upa4 in the extra large version. Also have a d'andrea ts4 which is Even larger. Like both of them alot. Pure quality.
The small one is the micro-machine shop tool of choice here if we had to select one. 8mm is great here in California metric is it for us. Wow that Wohlhaupter UPA 1 is a great tool looked up the price used you have a great tool Stefan then again good to great tools are not cheap that makes us love them more of course. The smallest I could find is the one you have, we are liking your boring head.
I missed the clutch mechanism or is it just a friction plate on the adjustment dial. Very interesting great video! You used the correct amount of show and tell. The video also had a well balanced ‘what and how to do” and “what not to do”. Thanks for sharing.
Putting parts in a thick container and then putting the container in an ultrasonic greatly reduces the ultrasonic cleaning action in the container fyi. I dont know if they use them in Europe, but the small aluminum foil disposable baking pans work great for what you are doing with small bolts and stuff. They are thin so they do not block the ultra sonic as much.
plain water in the US tank and a zip lock bag with parts and degreaser of choice works very well too, reasonably powerful US baths tare the al foil up quite quickly, but the plastic bags seem to last
@@dsfs17987 We never had an issue with the foil pans getting torn up by the ultrasonic. We used the higher frequency ones with a sweep for cleaning small delicate features. One of the most important things is getting your temps set right. Should be roughly 10% below the boiling point of the solution IIRC to get it to microjet.
I want a UPA1 just to cuddle in the evenings, they are so cute! I have a UPA4 that is too big for any of my machines, but as it is the most beautifully-made thing i have ever seen I can't bear to part with it. I have a UPA3 that gets a lot of use, even on my CNC milling machine. I have found it hard to find 18mm dia boring tools. CTC tools have some insert-type ones that work fairly nicely except that the flat is on the wrong side for the clamp/feed direction of the Wohlhaupter. I found a similar set on Aliexpress, with the same problem.
Congratulation on a very nice boring head. Nice adaption to you MT4 spindle also. What type of oil did you use to lubricate? Still grease in the worm? Btw, D'Andrea is Italian. Very cool with the red crank.
I like the D'andrea best because the tooling is on a dovetail slide & can be locked anywhere along the facing range. Also the hand feed lever is great plus the rev counter can't be beat.
Very lucky find of that Kuroda head Stefan. I've heard they make very fine tooling. The internals on yours seems to fully support what I've read. Narex uses almost exactly the same idea to attach there shanks to there B&F heads except there's no offset screw hole so the heads can be attached in any orientation. It's a much better system imo than Criterion's very nice fitting but still threaded connection since the heads can be used in either rotational direction. Narex and I'd assume Kuroda as well are more than a little proud of there shanks given the asking prices though.
Wow, this is freakishly good timing. I just bought a Wohlhaupter UPA3 a few days ago after wanting one for years. Hasn't arrived yet but going by the pictures it looks almost unused and still has all the accessories in it's case. I worked at a place years ago and nearly everything was worn out and wrecked. One day, looking through one of the many filth covered shelves, I found a dusty case. Upon opening the case I was greeted with the sight of a pristine Mizoguchi boring and facing head. This ,like the Kuroda, was a Japanese licensed(?) copy of the Wohlhaupter. Also beautifully made. Ironically my head has an MT4 taper which I need to change to suit my machines (Schaublin 13 (ISO30) and Arboga U2508 (MT3)) and I'm fairly certain it has an integral shank so I'll have to consider my options (I've already rewatched your earlier video on this very topic). Thanks for sharing this great video. Matt
I have a spare MT3 shank for a UPA3. But I suspect you are are enough from Essex to make it cheaper to make one. It is hard to tell the difference between removable and integral shanks, but if you can poke an allen key down the middle of the shank and find a hex then it is removable. Remember! Clockwise to loosen the differential screw! I have made 30-taper shanks for my UPA3 (I need 30INT for the horizontal spindle _and_ BT30 for the vertical) by re-machining the inexpensive shanks from ebay with the 1.5" x 18tpi thread.
You're right Andy, I am rather far from Essex, if you consider more than 10,000 Miles or nearly 17,000 km to be far! Thanks for the offer though. Also, thanks for the info on the Lefty-Rigthy attachment method. I have a few thoughts on what I may do (assuming it's an integral shank type). One option is the obvious turn the MT into a straight shank approach. This may be okay but I really don't like the extra stick-out this causes when held in a collet chuck. One thing that complicates matters is the fact that my MT4 shank is the type that has a big taper drift hole in the middle so there is less material to work with. When my head arrives (today or tomorrow) I'll plan my next move. That sounds like a bit of a nuisance with your two tapers on one machine. Is this owing to automatic tool change on the vertical and manual on the horizontal? @@andypughtube
@@matthewsutherland83 MT4 is very nearly as big at the gauge line as ISO30. But for your situation where you would ideally be able to swap shanks it would be nicer to copy the Wohlhaupter system if possible. The tricky part would be making the internal fine thread. This could probably be done with carbide tooling on a lathe. (at the very least it avoids the risk of breaking a tap off in the boring head body). Here is a drawing I made showing the standard Wohlhaupter shank and interface. drive.google.com/open?id=1NYx-9KnlYfgZZv9BRnhdRgGMz3CB817q You can make the link screw by machining and re-threading a standard M16 grub-screw. Wohlhaupter will convert a fixed-tang UPA3 to removable-tang for €800.
That's great info Andy. Thanks very much. I still haven't got my head yet and to be honest sorting out it's taper isn't my highest priority at the moment (I've just bought a 4x10 metre shed to house my workshop and now I have to build it) so there is time to mull over my options. My main aim is to keep stick-out to a minimum. The Schaublin 13 is a little short on Z axis depth and when used in horizontal mode space can be really limited. As you say, internal threading may be difficult and I'll probably opt for thread cutting rather than tapping. Having Wohlhaupter convert it is definitely not an option for me. 800 euro plus return freight from Melbourne, Australia makes it slightly too pricey for me! Interesting to know though. Thanks again @@andypughtube
"For next to nothing off of the German equivalent of Craig's List" Tool Gloat of the year The first Wohlhaupter I ever was allowed to use had the pins on the feed ring that you could set to vary the outfeed. This allowed you cut tapers in the Jig Bore, Boring Mill or Jig Mill The Wohlhaupter's I've used all had the extension bars that allowed you really stiffen up the bar during the cut All the small parts. Old prescription bottles. Small plastic bags if the Greens still let you have them in Germany. Anything to keep them together with their associated parts plus LABEL them. Putting one of these together you do not want left over parts
Great video. Thanks! I have a slightly larger Wohlhaupter that can use the same treatment. I had no idea what to expect inside and it's a bit more complicated than the typical Criterion type. Plus a good excuse to get a nice ultrasonic cleaner.
There are some pictures of the inside of my integral-shank UPA4 here goo.gl/photos/sTiPXh7irBVbvmSG7 (and some of my UPA3, so be careful to be sure which one it is). Also a picture of my bolt-on CNC-conversion for the UPA3. :-)
Dear Stefan, excellent video as always. Is there anyway you could show how the locking screw mechanism works? I have a Mizoguchi version which appears identical to the Koruda/Wohlhaupter. However i am missing the locking screw and i assume pin and ball bearing. Thank you and i hope you are well.
Another machinist called me to show me his recently acquired UPA3 (with the 12 step adjustable facing feed rate)...I'm sold! This thing is awesome and it's way cheaper than I thought such a mechanical marvel would cost. My only gripe apart from the lack of adapters is the sketchiness factor of trying to hold it even with a rod (that's probably due to the bad tuning of the stop pin force and my inexperience with it's functions). PS: This is not a Wohlhaupter design but a Soviet ГОСТ standard (ГОСТ 22393-77 to be precise). Victor Leontiev (Виктор Леонтьев on youtube) has a very extensive series of videos including a bunch of them doing some machining voodoo with this "universal boring head" but it's all in Russian...Incredibly interesting nonetheless. He's got many moves I've never seen before!
Stefan, Have you tried using a mix of Phosphoric Acid and water (~1pt to 6pts) to remove surface corrosion (after degreasing of course) . Used to be sold in a gel form as Naval Jelly (for marine use not for belly button :-) Perhaps more for restoration work but has its uses. And I just found a new one. It will refresh horribly oxidized soldering tips. Soak for a minute and polish with steel wool. I just renewed 10 virtually unusable tips.
Nice tool. Good video. I wonder if you could get a better surface finish by putting a weighted dummy cutter in the opposite side to keep it somewhat in balance. Though, that tool does appear pretty sturdy.
grats on the find! looks like it is the UPA3 size, though a bit more compact thanks to the worm drive arrangement consisting of a half nut, while Wohlhaupters have the screw and rotating nut arrangement, probably some patent workaround by Kuroda I've been looking around for UPA2 myself, but they rarely show up on ebay, saw one few months ago, auctioned off for ~450EUR and got instantly relisted for 750EUR and then disappeared after a while, I want the #2 for my Fehlmann mill/drill, I think I'd even be willing to trade an "imperial" UPA3 with R8 integral shank AND an UPA4 with a 40 taper and 5/8 draw bar thread for a single UPA2, but who's going to give up their #2...
What did you end up using for lube? The ball on the adjusting ring looks like its for oil, however I'd guess if the rack were oiled it would sling it all over while spinning.
I thought Stefan was going for a finger licking of that nasty oil, but had second thoughts, only because he was recording. Maybe off camera? It's a beauty but it seems overwhelming on that size of mill. I was also expecting some customizing, but this must be a exceptional tool when the master doesn't mess with it.
@@StefanGotteswinter Normally I would have said the price tag, but then yours was very good in that regard too. Thanks Stefan for this video and all the excellent quality videos that you produce for us.
Hi Stefan, Really nice tool and rebuild. Do you have any suggestions what to use for rust protective oil? I used WD40 but that's not good enough in my cold and poor isolated workshop. Greetings for the Netherlands.
Ahoi! I started to use this: Meguin rost protection oil: www.meguin.de/meguin/produktdb.nsf/id/md_8753.html?OpenDocument&land=ME Works very well for me.
there is one detail you did not cover. the part that lock the inner ring of the planetery drive. it has the oval locking pin that is pushed out by some kind of transfer pin from the detent pin on the side. i have a simular no name head, looks identical but no name, and the transfer pin is missing on mine, would you minde going to that detail a bit please. cant finde any referance on what it should look like ore how it function. without that the head is a door stop.... if you dont minde i would be very thank full.
Excellent video Stefan, I have a small Bridge port one but it’s rubbish 10mm shank just not ridged enough it squeals like a pig.😬 I’m getting better with the music 🤨
Another outstanding video. Minor nitpick, maybe use brighter coloured gloves, these ones create massive dark blobs in the picture. I though for a moment that Fantomas or some mass murderer was about to make an appearance...
I've got a couple of small questions regarding the use of these heads. When facing to a stop or grooving to depth while using the stop(s) fitted to the slide's T slot does the feed disengage automatically or do your fingers act as the clutch allowing the knurled ring to slip when the stop has been met? Does the same apply when using rapid return? If oilways are found on parts should grease be used/avoided on assembly? BTW Glad to see you picked up a bargain with this gem! Thanks Matt
They will kick out the feed once they hit the stop (The torque needed for that can be adjusted with a setscrew). To be honest, I never used that feature and you might have noticed that my small Wohlhaupter is even missing the stops. And yes, it works also in rapid traverse :) I assembled it with MoS2 grease in vital spots, but I contemplated to lubricate it with heave iso220 way oil. The manual states grease, but the design with the oil passages feels more like its made for oil.
If it stinks like motor oil, there's a high chance that this was used as a cylinder boring head. I see quite a few car shop machinists use transmission oil or engine oil as lubricant. My thinking is that they don't want to contaminate the castings with other types of oil. But that's speculation at best.
Hi Stefan, I got an Imperial Kuroda UFB-3 recently with a 40 taper, but wasn't like yours. I saw some locking pins near the drawbar fixing, and figured it had a MT underneath. Well, after knocking out the pins, removing unusual locking screw, I managed to wind it out using a screw and a ball bearing. Well chuffed too, they are like a Swiss watch, but I don't have the little lever or stop bar with my set, so I might be in touch and get some dimensions, so I can make one. Great video, and it looks a damn sight cleaner too after all your work. :) Did you ever find a Kuroda user manual? I have the Wohlhaupter pdf though, but sometimes they turn up.
Hy Stefan, i am not sure if u will read this anytime soon, but i just wonder, if you maybe know if the Kuroda UFB2 is similiar size as the Narex vhu32 ? wondering if i can use a vhu head on my BF20 aslong i run it slow
Interesting. I have a similar-sized Kuoda B&F head model UFB-3 with an integral 3MT shank. The locking mechanism is missing a couple of simple parts and the internal kick-out 'lever' for the facing operations is a bit worn. Kuroda do not seem to make these any more. Can you still buy Kuroda parts in Germany or do you happen to know if Wolhaupter parts interchange? A bit detailed for the comments, I know, but I thought I would ask. Keep up the excellent videos.
Thanks for the great video Stefan . Very usefull details on this brilliant boring head especially for those who have been working only with chinese boring heads like me .I am amazed with the auto feed function . This tool is already in my wish list ! Exept Kuroda ,Wohlhaupter and the french one that you mention on the vid are any other brands that made similar boring heads?
@@KOSTASVALE Congratulations, a nice piece of kit by all accounts, I am looking at a Kuroda on eBay atm, ironically it is what Stefan ended with (MT4) and I want what he started with (40 taper). I want to find out if it has interchangeable shanks, as I don't fancy machining off an MT shank and adapting a 40 taper to it myself.
