*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*
thanks i watch alot of your videos. i find your videos very informtive. i purchased a forster press and dies after i watched your forster press video. i like most try strive for most accuracy. i cant say im a long range shooter, i try keep my shots no more 300 to 400 yards when i varmint hunt. thank you for passing your knowledge down to all of us to enjoy.
Thanks, Gregg. When I watch the video now, I cringe each time I digress to elaborate and explain. This is a very good example of why we should script, or at least outline, our little shows.
Hi Rex, on Wilson manual you can see they recommand to put the bushing with the size number on the top just as you do. I put the numbers on the bottom side, because otherwise because these numbers are stamped, it etches the top of the die when the case neck is pushing on it but there is another reason. As you may know the bushing is meant to slightly move to self center on the neck, and these numbers prevents the top of the bushing to slip correctly against the top of the die. My first neck die that has the top totally etched by these bushing numbers, I had to polish it again.
you had me for the whole video but geez, would have liked to see your final outside neck measurement after you seated it. Thought that was the whole point... nice video!
I expect you're right, that info should have been included. It's been over six years since I made that video. I can't remember what I ate for breakfast two hours ago, so...I'll just pretend the o.d. was exactly what I wanted it to be.
Hello Rex. I've really enjoyed your perspective on the various videos of reloading. I'm new to reloading but as an architect, I appreciate precision instruments. I now own a Forster Co-Ax press because of you! I would like to find a precision caliper and have settled on the Mitutoyo brand but I'm not sure as to which model. Can you tell me about the one you are using in this video? Thanks again for your excellent videos. Jeff Green
Well, thank you so much for your nice comment. The Mitutoyo caliper is a Digimatic model 500-351. It's a 6 inch caliper with a supposed accuracy of 0.0005 or half-a-thousandths. It uses an SR44 battery which I need to replace as it has been getting dim for some time now. That brings up an interesting point: I have a couple of cheap (≈ $12) calipers which will eat up a pair of batteries in short order. The Mitutoyo seems to run for years on a battery. I have no idea why that is so, but it is. I have a calibration(?) disc with my two-inch Starrett micrometer. It's a one inch (very precise) diameter steel disc about 5/16 thick. It's used to check and/or adjust the "zero" setting of the mike. It also makes a very good check for calipers. The Mitutoyo is the only one of my several calipers which hits the mark every time. Admittedly, some of the calipers are el-cheapos and the others are only medium level jobs, but still... In addition, I've often compared results from micrometer measures against the Mitutoyo and it can go toe-to-toe with the best. However, for critical measures, it seems to me that the physical design of calipers is a bit of a limiting factor in their accuracy because of the ergonomics. Specifically I'm referring to the inability of a caliper to HOLD its result. As soon as you move it in the slightest, the jaws will move and the reading is incorrect, so you HAVE to read the caliper WHILE it is on the part AND at its minimum position. This often makes for uncomfortable head positions and upside down situations where it's easy for things to shift. A micrometer, on the other hand, is like a worm gear in that you cannot drive it backward from the output side. Pushing on the jaws will not move them in or out, so you can safely take a measurement and pull the mike off of the part and read it at a comfortable position and under good light with your best glasses. BUT, for the reloader, a great caliper is one of the finest investments you'll ever make because it can handle 90% or more of your precision measurement needs.
Absolutely, and that's why you'll find one in the video at the 9:30 point. As I've noted before, this video is long-winded and filled with digressions, so I don't blame you for not watching it to the end. ;>)
I would have been curious to know whether a medium push on that bullet, after you seated it at the end of your vid, would have caused it to move farther into the case or not. .
An interesting point. I can't say about that particular bullet, but judging from the pressure I exerted on the press handle, I'd say you're right. In fact, that has become my favorite way of making a final determination as to the size choice of the neck die collar. For a single shot target rifle, I might size for a light press fit. I simply press a dummy round against the side of the bench. I start with what I know will be a loose fit and work down until it takes a moderate amount of thumb pressure to move the bullet. Anyway, I only use these hand dies for single shot target rifles. That's where they excel.
I wonder which setup will produce least amount of run out and a more precisely made bullet. forster press with forster or Redding dies ,or the Wilson hand dies?
Excellent question to ponder. I fully believe when the Wilson hand dies were introduced in the late 40's, they were vastly superior to most press/die combinations from Pacific, RCBS, Lyman, etc. Starting in about the 1990's, I think there was a seismic shift in the quality of commercially made 7/8-14 threaded dies with the leadership coming from Redding and Forster. This was a time of dramatic improvement in CNC machine tool quality and capability and the quality spread throughout the industry. Keep in mind that Wilson hand dies were originally developed for benchrest shooters to load their ammunition AT THE BENCH. You still can't beat them for their simplicity and not needing a press. Nowadays I think you would be hard-pressed to find significant differences in ammo produced with Redding, Forster, RCBS, Hornady, Lyman and even the bargain products from Lee, in comparison to Wilson. If you are using top quality brass and bullets along with a good press, you can get results that were only dreamed about prior to the late 1980's (or later). I loaded some 6.5 Creedmoor for my son with Lee dies that had only 0.001 bullet runout. The brass was Hornady's which they sell for "standard" prices even though it is match grade brass. The point of that statement is to emphasize the importance of quality brass. I think we're seeing big improvements there. Bullets have been better for a long time, and brass is catching up thanks to folks like Lapua setting the bar a lot higher. We're truly living in a Golden Age of high quality products never before available and all at affordable prices.
After seeing this video, and some others, I have purchased several of the Wilson dies and seaters (actually, I'm trying to find a legitimate smith who will take Wilson blanks and create the chamber dies for my 7.7x58 Arisaka), and I went with the K&M arbor press. You didn't identify the maker of your neck thickness gauge -- care to share ? Thank you for making such effective (informative and digestible) videos. To 'BOYD': Yes, that is 0.014, or 14 thousandths of an inch.
Thank you. Alas, I already thought of asking the folks at Wilson, and received the extraordinarily useless reply of, "Right off hand, I can't think of anyone who would do that."
Love L E Wilson products! Also like your calipers! Where is the best place to purchase a set of them as I have read you have to be careful of getting a Chinese copy ? Thanks for information
Hi Rex. From your presentations I am guessing you are either a teacher or engineer in your professional life? Im going to get a set of these for the wasp and see how much of an improvement they will make.:)
I'm a retired guy who designed drill rigs and hydraulic power and control systems for 35+ years. Harvey would be proud to know you're keeping the flame alive.
I'll bet it does. The real beauty and joy of these Wilson tools is the ease of using them at the shooting bench. Pre-load a bunch of rounds overly long, then finish seating them to different depths right at the bench.
I see the bushing did not size all of the neck? Does that eventually lead to a "dread doughnut"? I enjoyed this video...not enough out there on the benchrest stuff!
That's a good point, Jamie. For those who may not know, the "dreaded doughnut" is an internal thickening at the bottom of the case neck, right where it joins the shoulder. If your case neck has expanded enough during firing to allow a bullet to slide in, you can often feel the doughnut with a bullet. Otherwise, you can check with an appropriate pin gauge or, as I do, with an adjustable hole gauge. The bullet, pin or gauge will slide freely at first, then stop against the doughnut at the bottom of the neck. There's a ton of debate as to what causes these constrictions. Most of the discussion does not involve case neck sizing, rather full length sizing, case geometry (shoulder/neck thickness), outside neck turning, annealing and re-sizing (especially up-sizing). Yes, some people feel that bushing sizers like the Wilson in this video or others by Redding, Hornady and Forster which use neck bushings, can contribute to the problem. Actually I don't see how ANY neck sizer would contribute because the doughnut problem is an internal issue. Almost everyone is in agreement that the ONLY cure is inside neck reaming. In fact, I would think that a neck sizer that does not touch the bottom area of the neck would be better because that internal dimension would not be reduced even further than it is. Because the doughnut is created by "flowing" the brass, it is very hard and a typical button stem will not remove it, only temporarily push it out of the way, so using a conventional sizer vs. a bushing neck sizer won't have any real effect. Just my 2¢ worth and that may be overstating its value. Thanks for contributing to the discussion.
This was an excellent review, I felt I was in the room with you, but this all looks a bit crude, banging around with hammers (soft faced) and prizing out with screwdrivers, I assume this is to reload cases that have been fired in your rifle that only require neck sizing, why not just use your reloading press with a neck sizer ?This would save any potential case damage. I can see no advantage over using a press, even the Sinclair Co Ax.
You certainly can and should use a conventional press and good dies normally, but these dies were developed by benchrest shooters to use in the field at the bench. Typically a benchrest shooter will only have a small number of "perfect" cases and will load them over and over during a match. The Wilson dies are pretty much the standard for benchrest handloading.
Very nice of you. So far my audience has been exemplary in their courteous ways. I'm completely open to honest criticism and differences of opinion. There are many ways to skin a cat and I like to think I keep an open mind. I've learned many good things from feedback on my videos. This is great stuff when properly used, doncha think!
