Boy, you make this complicated piece of work a piece of cake!!!!! Not only are you meticulous but you are also a 'homeboy', providing the needed simplified method to press in races. Kudos!!!!
Great video. I just happen to see cause it was on my suggestion List. Didn't need the info but glad there are people here that are genuinely glad to help others.
Fantastic videography, thank you so much for taking the time to post such an informative and visually descriptive procedure. I also really appreciate you stating the 12mm bolts you used in the pull the axle! Well done!!
Great video with just the right amount of detail and speed of moving to the next task. Nice work. I've got this service to do before winter so was very helpful. Clay
Awesome video mate. My LHR bearing collapsed coming home from a trip over the weekend, preparing to rebuild using this exact method in a few days time. Couldn't be a better video - perfect!! Cheers! Mitch, HZJ78R, NSW Australia
I've been turning wrenches for over 40 years (most of them earning a living) and I have to tell you I am impressed by two things. First is I have a bit more respect for the Land Cruiser rear axle design, well thought out for reliability and simple to service. Second, you are a very good, broad skilled mechanic, I think you have a future with spanners should you ever decide to hang up you Fireman hat.
My 80 and I thank you for these videos!!! Cannot imagine tackling what I have without these. On pressing in the races, what if I dont have a press, per se? Carefully knocking in with a race tool is safe, yes?
From an old bush mechanic - NEVER use a surface with any 'give' (like the tray of the ute in this video ) as an 'anvil. (Perhaps it was for the video perspective in this case?) At least a piece of hardwood on hard ground or concrete! Thanks from Australia for the post Mate
Now I'm doing the rear hubs on my 80 I have been asking people about sealing (or not) around the cone washer seats and most people say not to put sealant there. I was able to locate the proper tool for the lockring so should be able to use that for setting the pre-load along with my torque wrench.
@AlmondCharles Great and glad I could help! the best manual is the toyota factory manual, you can find online versions if you try a google search. Thanks again!
@dardarwin01 This will stop the leakage at the wheel hubs on the rear end, if it is leaking where the driveshaft meets the differential then you need to replace the pinion seal.
That is great!! I just got a 94 FZJ80... driving it home, the engine imploded. Now I am having a mechanic put a Used one in with 50k miles on it... It is costing about 5500 for the engine swap- everything else I want to do myself.. so these will be a great resource.. !! Thanks
Great advice. Gotta be sure to cut the old race like you showed. If someone was to tap the new race in with the old race without cutting it, the old race could get really stuck in there. Or so I've heard... LOL. :)
awesome videos my friend! very helpful. I want to ask why do we do the process with the locking nut at the end. After we finish it is suppose to be at the locking position right?
@ned900 prrelaod means the amount of force in pounds that it takes to move the hub - so yes i attach the scale and pull - it is not perfect but it works, for years i did it with nothing but i don't suggest that. please follow the manual as I cannot give advice on exact specifications without seeing something in person. All cruisers are different of course. Thanks for watching!
hey just re doing my bearings and wondering about the sealer… doesn't gluing it up with sealer make it near impossible to open up next time? i could imagine taking the cone washers out would be a nightmare?
Do NOT beat the hell out of the axle flange. If you had a factory service manual, and you can read, it's clear that you use a soft punch (aluminum or brass) and firmly tap the end of the bolt, which releases the tapered cones. Once they are loose, a small (1/8" wide) flat bladed screwdriver wedged in the edge facilitates removal. Beating the side of the flange distorts the surface, makes the axle hard to seal, eventually destroys it, and shows the world how not to do things.
@danman1178 Awe thats too bad! My friend has one here for 300, mind you it has 200000 on it but still runs great! Make aure you change out the little collant hose while the engine is out, its a real pain in the butt when you have to do it in the truck.
My 80 is a 3/92 with rear disk brakes not drum brakes. What differences would there be compared to 80's with drum brakes? Removing the calipers obviously so the brake disks can be remove. I believe the hub seals are different between drum and disk brake configurations. Also has anyone done a video on replacing the 80's rear diff centre as I need to replace mine (very bad bearing whine) or get the current one rebuilt. Thanks. Craig.
hi, im wondering about the preload, i have the service manual, it says 600kg-cm (43ft-lb, 59n.m) however i dont have a clue what that means (lol) what weight did it say on your scale? i can understand that. cheers
Great tutorial! Do you know the part numbers for the inner and outer bearings? Also the seal and any paper gasket needed? My driver side is leaking behind the dust cover and would like to have all parts needed prior to beginning. Thank you!!
Hey mate, nice video I was trying to pause but couldn’t quite work it out, I’ve got a hzj75 and noticed a slow leak on my passenger rear hub, just curious as to how many dowels should be in the hub? As there are currently 2 with 2 blank holes? I think one is missing?
Tackled this job a year ago, turns out the passenger side was not too bad, the drivers side had already leaked enough grease to seize the bearing to the axle, that was a bastard to pull off!!!
Love the series of videos and appreciate the effort that goes into them. However you should never put sealant under the cones. It will result in broken axle studs. Once again not having a whinge just pointing it out. 👍🏻
