Great work. We all hate those hours that are spent scratching our heads and looking for faults, but the things we learn while doing it is worth in the long run. Great build series
Dang Sydney those Gremlins and Ghosts can plague your progress for sure! I had the same ground issue when I was rebuilding one of my 3s one day it would start the next I couldn't move it. Turns out removing the whole side panel took the ground point and I had to mount it elsewhere temporary to get running again. Looks like you next step is to get everything in place and hook up. Take care! Casey
Hey Syd. Really appreciate these videos. Could you expand a bit on what the the firmware mismatch and CAN re-deploy process is for us noobs please ? Cheers.
Hey Bill. Well I'm a bit of a Noob as well but I'll have a go at how I think it works! So all the different computers in the car need to have the correct Firmware to match the car (i.e. different battery sizes, heat pump or not, headlight types etc...) They also change the firmware to improve things as well. So the appropriate "software package" is downloaded to the car over the air and stored (in the "gateway" I think???). Then the different firmwares are deployed from this package to the different computers. If you replace one of those components the chances are it will have a different version of the firmware so you need to get the car to re-deploy the last lot of Firmwares that were previously downloaded. The "CAN redoploy" just redeploys to the components that use "Canbus" comunication (as opposed to linbus/ethernet connected devices I guess) You can now do this without "Toolbox" if you have late enough software version in your car. Go to Software Tab, press and hold "Model 3" for a few seconds, type "service" and there is a "software reinstall" option. Super usefull!
Hi Sydney, i'm Sidney from holland ;) I was going to order a tesla motor and battery pack for my land rover discovery 3 retrofit and then realized why not buying the entire car at an auction. Googled the idear and i came accross your project. Just love it, you are taking all the stress factors away. I was wondering, because my lr3 is from 2009 i have abs / air suspension / electronic breaks...etc. Do you think i could connect everything from the tesla donnor car in order to avoid having to code anything ? And can i keep both engines, one on the front diff and one on the rear diff ? Thank you in advance for your help. Regards, SIdney
Hey there Sidney! First most important consideration is where are you going to fit the Model 3 battery pack? Your unlikely to be able to use it in it's orginal packaging. You may be able to fit it in the rear cargo area without the rear seats. To package it how I did (2 high 2 wide) you need at least 195cm length x 71cm wide x 19cm high (most vehicle don't have this sort of room to spare). Your brakes will probably be easier to do than mine because you can incorporate the tesla wheel speed sensors. I would think you would do a single mid mount motor using the Tesla rear Drive unit running the prop shafts. I don't know how the LR3 air suspension works excactly but you would either need to use the original brain to control it or an aftermerket control system or change to a standard setup?? You'll have to sort out an electronic pump for power steering and use the same emulator as I did to fool the Tesla into thinking it still has it's power steering. If you can't fit the big M3 battery modules it's all sort of semantics really! An LR3 with a Tesla drive system would be amazing!
Hi Sydney, thank you for your fast return. I'm trying to fit the original packaging, the lr3 has the particularity of body removal option (the chassis and the body can be seperated with 8 bolts content.invisioncic.com/r226025/monthly_01_2010/post-21213-126389259229_thumb.jpg). I've noticed when i did it last year that between chassis and body there is a big gap of 15cm from front wheel to back. The body is mounted on these 8 points that could be made higher for better clearance. When i remove engine, gearbox, tank and exhaust it should be pretty big. Could you send me the dimensions of the battery and the penthouse seperated ? I can only find the total height of 33cm (33x150x218). Yes indeed, the LR3 has a big fan community and they are all looking for a quick solution in Europe because diesel engines are getting banned in every big city starting 2025. So if i can find a easy solution for everyone that doesn't require cutting open the high voltage battery pack it would be awesome. Where are you located in Australia, i've got family there all over there ;)
@@sidneywales Right, well if you think you could fit the battery pack as a whole that would save a lot of work! The pack without the penthouse is fairly squat at only 115mm high. Pack Length 2150mm, width 1490mm (or 1360mm without the mounting flanges), and 115mm high. Penthouse: Width 1230mm, Length: 440mm, Height 230mm Would be great if it worked out and you could share the process publicly! I'm ~30km from Australia's Capital (Canberra)! Let us know how you go, or even better post some videos of your findings🙂!
Thank you so much for the dimensions, that is perfect. I think it's actualy possible now to keep the original battery cover, without any modification. What about the front motor, i whish to keep both running to avoid having to code anything. I see a lot of AWD for sale on the copart, this could be another solution. I was thinking in connecting the front motor directly to the tires like on the tesla, same thing for the back. I won't need the diff because all the land rover options will not be working anyway. For sure i'll try to film it, to see how far i get. I'll keep you in the loop. I've been to canberra once, most family is in Sydney and Melbourne ;) Have to make the trip again.
I was thinking that the LR3 still had a solid rear diff but I realised that it's independent front and rear so even better! Yes, both a front and rear motor out of a dual motor M3 would be ideal. Just need to get custom axles made up, also gives you more room in the middle of the car (and you get the bigger battery pack)! @@sidneywales
Hey Sydney is there anyway you could tell me any way I could bypass the flood port sensors, looks like you were able to make something to get yours to be happy. But could we use a resistor in their place to just eliminate them and keep the HVC happy?
Possibly. I didnt try that because I want to keep them functioning. I'm not sure if they blocked the contactors connecting or going in to drive - I just fixed them because I saw the error in Toolbox.
@@sydneyg007 anyway you could do me a huge favor and check resistance between pin 8 and 22 or pin 9 and 23, to see if I can fool the HVC to thinking the flood ports are closed that would be huge for me
No problem. Measuring across the pins doesn't produce a resistance because it is a hall effect sensor, but with the car powered up the hall effect input reads 13.83Volts with the output pin measuring .64volts. I don't know the current unfortunately but I would start with a 1K resistor and adjust accordingly. Are your flood sensors faulty or missing? It may be easier to buy some from Tesla directly. You may be surprised with how cheap new parts are from Tesla! Just looked at the EPC and the flood port assembly is an over the counter part (non-restricted) @@drewthecarguy
@@sydneyg007 that gives me a great place to start, thank you!! My flood ports are just missing, I was like you and didn’t think much about them when relocating my penthouse, looks like they are pretty important lol and won’t shut contactors when open
