That is so inspiring, I'm going to watch this episode if I have a flat spot during my build. Will you position the HVIL resistors outside of the wrapped loom in case they burn out or fail? Or would that only be needed for the airbag module replacement resistors? Great work
Thanks Andrew! Can't imagine ever having an issue with the HVIL resistors - there's never going to be much current going through them. The airbag resistors on the other hand will have a decent surge if the airbag is triggered (although there will be much larger concerns if that happens). :)
Unfortunately the car isn't talking to Tesla anymore so app isn't usable and doesn't update (but at least I have fast charging). It does have lifetime premium connectivity though so LTE is usefull!
It hasn't updated since 2021 (2021.4.3) so very old! I think that the security certificate has expired and a higher access Toolbox version needs to be used to resolve this (which I don't have access to). The downside is that I don't get all the new features and improved UI that come with later firmware updates. The upside is that Tesla can't disable fast charging through firmware updates.
Wahoo! Awesome! Sidney your a genius! So cool to see your build up and running. You figured out that little problem quick. Here I was thinking it was a seat sensor or something. Take it easy, Casey
Hi Sydney, Thanks so much for your videos. I’m a 77 year old guy putting twin Tesla Model 3 motors with LFP battery packs into a 42 foot aluminum catamaran fly bridge boat custom made in 1990 in Australia. I’m having problems with contactors not closing: errors a_071 Transcon not met, a_081 /sw /Ctr close blocked, a_083 sw Ctr close failure. I have connectors attached to all 3 receptacles (Penthouse to Motor, Penthouse to HVAC and Penthouse to ChargePort. I also have all cover bolts tight in place. LFP Battery pack has no front motor receptacle. Do you have a suggestions to resolve the failure? Thanks!!!!
Hey. That sounds like an amazing project! Those errors basically only tell you that it isn't happy (but not why). A_071 is: "A blocking condition does not allow the BMS to transition into the requested state." How is everything hooked up? Are you running both motors and batteries seperately? A couple of ideas - first thing to check if your pyro fuses aren't blown (~$25 from Tesla). Make sure that the penthouse lid is grounded (or the 2 screws either side of the battery logic plug ar grounded). Check your HVIL's (you can see how in my video #12 sorting problems). You will need the motor plugged in to the high voltage so that the system can pre-charge (i.e. if it's not connected to the capacitors in the motor inverter it wont work). A few things to try there.
Another really handy informative video. Thanks. Would the Tesla radiator/condensor have fitted vertically to give you more frunk space ? Alternatively l guess you could have used an aftermarket one to create more room . Btw. ls that a PTO front winch ? Classic old school stuff.
Thanks Adrian. I possibly could have mounted them horizontally and either extended the pipes or mounted hard against the thermal bar. The main limiting factor is the chassis. Yes, PTO front winch - I'm thinking of using of using my old ebike 5000watt motor to drive it of the auxilary 48v battery - a project for the future though!
Great video again, good amount of detail for all of us! I might have missed it in one of your videos but how are you going or going to tackle the roadworthy engineering?
Thankyou! Very good question. I havn't previously mentioned anything about the Engineer yet but I will definitely have to go in to more detail about this at some stage. I have been in contact with an engineer and have spoken to him a couple of times about what he needs to look at. We decided there was nothing in particular that he needed to examine during the build process so I'll get him out when everything is together!
I ve known of a bloke who got an old starter moter and made it so he could use a 3/4 inch drive ratchet to turn engines over would been handy for you .R
I'm half way through converting a 1997 300tdi 130 with the MY motor in South Australia, I initially contemplated doing a complete transplant and the only way I though it was going to work was by creating new sub frames front and back with dual motor or using other OEM subframes from a Patrol or similar, I haven't gone that way and just used the rear motor mounted the same as yours.. After watching your videos I can really appreciate the amount of work involved to get to where you are and the dedication to make it work and on top of that producing all the videos, awesome work. Keen to see it working!
Nice! Would love to see more details on your build! Personally I think it is definitely better to retain the original suspension of the Land Rover. Thanks for the nice comments, the whole point is to try to make it a little easier for other people like yourself!
