Servicing the transmission on my discovery 3 this transmission is in a wide variety of vehicles Ford Territory's XR6 falcons and XR6 Turbo's Aswell as Some BMW's and Peugeot's
Thanks for the comment Julio I'm stoked this video is helping people like yourself Welcome to the landrover life I hope you like working on 4wds because there is about to be alot of it going on for you now you own a lr3 haha 🤣 there worth the trouble though 🍻
I did this last year on my LR3 V8. A bit different for the first time taking the old plastic pan off, it's a single piece with the pan and filter. You have to take out the pan screws, then use a hacksaw blade to gently cut the filter neck, sounds horrible but it can be done. One thing I recommend for first time pan replacement is make sure to tap the threads out before reinstalling the screws/bolts. I replaced the solenoids, mechatronic sleeve, valve sleeves, bridge seal. I lost 2nd gear sometimes from takeoff and decided to do a trans Service. My local Land Rover shop said don't do it. I did it, reset the transmission adaptations and it's been perfect ever since. These transmissions are great but people never service them. Also, I bought the LR3 a couple years ago, I wasn't the original owner. Bottom line, change your fluids and service your rig. Nice video.
Nice tips there mate I was lucky enough to have the steel pan on mine when I purchased it so didn't have to get the hack saw out I tried solenoids and clutch sleeves before getting mine rebuilt with no luck unfortunately Main clutch bushes were fingers and bypassing oil aswell as the mech unit a fairly hefty Lump of money later and she's brand new haha and as you said they just need loving and in my opinion there one of the best trannies on the marker
Thanks for this advice. Were you able to do this without taking down the catalytic converter or the frame cross members? I'm planning to do this on a V8 and I believe this video works on a TD6.
My LR3 is a V8. I did a bit of research before doing it. You should go to Atlantic British website and look at their transmission filter kit. They also have a good video that gives a good idea, not everything, but a good idea of what is needed to do the job. It was the absolute best service repair I have done on my Rover. Only thing you will need to do is lower the transfer case a couple inches. Very simple. The most unnerving thing for me was cutting the old filter neck to free up the pan. It freaked me out until I just relaxed and did it. If you do it, while everything is disassembled, take the solenoids out and test them or replace them altogether. It will be around $850 US Dollars to do the job with all parts and fluids. After you're done you will need to have the shift adaptations reset with a GAP tool or a local Land Rover shop. Very simple computer procedure. My Rover shifts smooth and perfect. All gears working great. @@1013aaronb
Saludos, exelente te tu video, podrías asesorarme, hice cambio filtro y aceite, pero el auto cuando voy sacandolo despacio me golpea la segunda marcha, que sugieres que podria ser lo que falla? Espero tu repuesta gracias
Wish I had seen this video before I done mine! I made many searches without success for where the refill port is, but yours is the only one I could find that shows it. I was confused, as the port does not appear to be high enough to allow enough volume of oil. THANK YOU! The biggest problem I had was removing and replacing the bolts from the front of the plate, which are obstructed by the chassis cross member. I ended up drilling a hole through it to allow one of the bolts. My plan was to rust proof it. but there is enough oil to preserve it. :D
Nice close up viedo on showing different areas of interest so people know where to look a few viedos on RU-vid about lr3 transmission but not clear to view what they are talking about i bought a 2007 transmission slips because i think they put in the red transmission fluid which is the wrong type i bought new metal pan and sleeve and correct fluid i do hope this fixes my slipping
Great work. Your videos are well explained. Can you make please a video how to replace a turbocharger by 2.7 v6 diesel discovery 3 without body removal? Or a video related with glow plugs replacement? Thanks👍
Thanks Olcay 🍻 the turbo video won't be happening for another 6 months or so I might be able to do a glow plug one sometime.in the near future though 👍👍
I just changed my sump pan last week. What a nightmare getting out and putting back in 8 of the bolts along the cross members. I had to use an Allen key and quarter turn at a time on each one. It took me hours! Did you have a low profile ratchet with hex bit attached or something? You didn't seem to take long on those bolts blocked by the cross member. All done now, but what a headache outside in the rain 🙃😔 Great upload as usual. I hope you and the Mrs are settling into your new home 😊👍
Hey powervolt I used a small torx bit with my ratchet spanner Next time for the rear 4 bolts I'll just unbolt the cross member and support the transfer case with a jack stand to make life even quicker
I e just tried it in the rain, bloody nightmare, and gave up. Stilll struggling to remove the bolts above the front crossmember. It doesn’t help as mine has spit oil everywhere
Hi, Thanks very much for this excellent video. So you don't have to remove cross members and lift up the transmission to remove the pan? I think the Disco 3 I have just bought has original pan on it. I see some people cut through the tube on the original filter so it is easier to remove.
hey jason honestly if you have the plastic pan, after doing this job a fair few times on different disco's now. i dont mess around anymore and just remove the cross member whilst supporting gearbox with a jack under the transfer case. if its a steel pan its easy to do with the crossmember in situ
Hi, Thanks for that. I do have the original pan by the looks of it. I did my diffs today. Got trans fluid so will order a metal pan with separate filter. Do you use the genuine LR fluid in your transfer case? It is extremely expensive.@@OUTBACKDiscovery
@@jasonandlesleyread7428 i found shell do the transfer case oil for it but cant remember the number from memory was still pricey basicaly same price as landrover but i didnt have to drive 40 minutes to get it
I did this a few days ago, on a 4.0 v6. What a pig of a job. Didn’t realise that the exhaust crosses over forward of the rear crossmember and there is SFA room to access the middle 2 pan bolts. Even harder getting them back in. Changed the sleeve and now getting intermittent trans faults but can fix if I give the harness a jiggle.. never again 😅
@@OUTBACKDiscovery yeah at least I know it’s related to the harness.. took it off this morning it was a bit oily so gave it a spray, dried it and put it back so hopefully she’s right to go
@@OUTBACKDiscovery OK fixed now. Drained the pan again so I could try get the sleeve in further and got it in another 6-8mm I reckon so I should’ve listened to your advice of noting how far in it was before you take it out! Anyway she’s all good now 👌🏼👌🏼
thanks for video, very informative! thanks heaps ,how many km on your rover ? how did your car go after drain and replace fluid? also i have a rrs 2010 tdv6 3.0 ,same tranny i think ! , my questions is where did you get all your parts and fluid from please ????
Sorry about the late reply the business I bought my stuff through no longer operates Although it's the same make transmission in the 3ltr ita the zf8 speed rather then the zf6 speed my disco had so it takes a different oil but the servicing process is still the same as the video My disco had 220km on it but I bought it with a bad transmission so got it rebuilt at 140km and dropped the oil every 20km after that and serviced with new filter every 40km This is excessive for daily driving but with all the 4wding and beach driving I was doing it was necessary For a daily driving vehicle I recommend every 50-60km transmission oil and filter change and rhat will keep your car happy
Great vid - done this job a few times but this is the first time someone's pointed out the need to change the mechatronic sleeve (Thanks mate) and guess wot? Mine's leaking (shoulda changed it last time, drat!). So gotta get on with it but going round in circles trying to make sure I'm getting right one (most offers are for BMW and whilst it's the same ZF6HP26 box - and therefore sleeve - I can't get anyone to say ' yes it's the same'. Have you got a part no. or do you always have it as part of the whole service kit? Ta
Thanks Hugh basically if it specifies for a zf6hp26 then it will be correct I just bought my sleeve off ebay for like $20 was just generic for the zf6hp26 and didn't specify landrover or anything
Great job! I just completed mine but I had to raise the trans about an inch to be able to put the new metal pan in. :( It doesn't look like you had to. I got my metal pan kit from Atlantic British; how about yours?
Hey Sabine mine was on the disco when I bought it It is a tight fit though I have to turn the pan to like 45 and degrees and angle it just right to get it to fit under can take a few minutes to find the sweet spot Time-lapse always makes things look like it just pops it but it's a bit of effort haha
Unsure as to which brand the pan is as previous owner done the swap , I no the Bridport clears with the crossmember still there , The steel gasket used was from when I sent my trans off for a rebuild they prefer the steel gasket over just the rubber one
Hey Jacksomb yeah I was * car was not running though* just wanted to see if any more oil came out or not. Didn't seem to make to much difference though I maybe got an extra 400ml out
mjproducts.com.au/shop/zf-6hp26-transmission-steel-metal-sump-pan-conversion-kit-factory-2nds/ Are the best I've seen proce wise specially for oil Or just search what you want for a ZF6HP26 that's our transmission model code
Hi, after servicing my auto, I started to get a torque converter shudder. The oil I was using is Penrite and recommended for ford, ZF automatics. Did you find an issue with this oil and did the Nulon product eliminate the issue. Apart from this, the auto is perfect. has done 300k, so it is to be expected that issues may arise, however, I feel the issue is oil and not mechanical. Appreciate your feedback. Cheers Gene
Morning , I only run the zf lifegaurd 6 oil in my trans it's oil quality is unmatched Chances are your shudder is from the torque converter which is now worse with the penrite oil in Mine done the same thing except I changed my.oil because of the shudder originally and used penrite oil the first time this made rhe car undrivable so quickly dropped rhe penrite oil and put zf lifegaurd 6 back in so I could drive it for a few more weeks so I could save money for a trans rebuild So my advice personally is that I don't recommend anything other then the lifegaurd 6 People have mixed opinions on the penrite oil some swear by it and other like myself would never put it in there trans again
@@OUTBACKDiscovery THanks, interestingly, the problem only started 10k after i changed to Penrite. I will do a flush to ZF fluid, nothing to loose, everything to gain. BTW, how did you go with gearbox rebuild, what was the wear like, major things to look out for? Cheers
@@TotaldriverAu honestly I wouldn't waist your money If your planning on keeping it get your torque converter replaced and then get them to install zf fluid after job is done Dont put Dr tranny anti shudder in it that stuff is like putting a bandaid on an underlying problem and can cause more wear My trans was in a bad way so got with 3rd and first gear ratio faults aswell as the torque converter shudder So I got my box rebuilt by a shop as I didn't have time, had new mechatronics unit with a valve body zip kit put through it All new solenoids and seals Upgraded bushes throughout And a heavy duty torque converter and flex plate costing me 7.5k 🤮🤑 Next time will do it myself Will be doing my dads disco 3 torque converter soon they are about 1k for a unit and $500 in oil If you pay a shop around 12-14hrs to do the job
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Thanks, I do all work myself, have been doing a bit of research into what goes on inside, and seems pretty basic. Like all things, time and distance (300k) equals wear, Gearbox operation is sweet in every way, so a set of clutches and from what I have seen solenoids should be ok, and a new Torque converter by the sounds of it. Bugger.
@@TotaldriverAu nice one when you go to take the gearbox out to get to the top bellowing bolts they are easier to access if you removed the transfer case crossmember and lower the rear of the gearbox down 2 inches Gives you a better angle to access the bolts There's 2 breather tubes ontop of gearbox one close to the front of the trans ontop and one ontop of the transfer case And from memory 3 plugs to unplug People say you have to remove the transfer case to get it out but it can be done with transfer case on When I done my Mayes torque converter last month I found the transfer case bolts hard to get to so left it on and removed trans as a whole units which worked fine When removing the starter motor the fuel cooler gets in the way so just remove it fully and clamp the 2 coolant lines going to it so it doesn't leak To remove the started slide it back and then angle it up so that the positive terminal goes over the tip.of the engine mount bracket and then rotate clockwise a tiny bit and that will give you the room to remove the starter motor Good luck took me 6hours to get the box out
hey kyu have you set the oil level correctly and if you unplugged anything is it all plugged in properly. There isnt any need for reprogramming afterwards if job is done as per the video
Thanks for sharing this informative video. I once again have question. Yesterday when driving a gravel road for about 300km. I randomly got the message "Transmission fault , traction reduced". Now the question is, the previous owners did not replace the filter and sump on the disco. Would you advise I still do it, or can it damage the gearbox? Car has 180 000km on the clock. Did you ever had that issue or know what it could be?
Morning mate have you got any ratio faults yet ? At 180000km chances are if it hasn't been serviced your torque converter won't be looking to great aswell as your main shaft journal bushes are probly worn ( this can cause gear ratio faults as the pressure leaks through the bush I recommened the steel pan and filter and I would be atleast getting a full transmission flush as it holds aroubd 11 litres and as you seen in the video I only get around 5 litres out doing a normal service Just bare in mind a transmission flush might only hide the problem before it happens again ( depending on which faults your getting)
@@OUTBACKDiscovery ,I am not sure what you mean with ratio faults? I have noticed a weird whining noise driving back. Can I temporarily drive like this in town? As its my only vehicle.
@@landroverexpeditionsnamibi3040 if your unsure about the ratio faults that's good news as you havnt had them yet 💪 Generally the whining noise is normally the front diff it's hard to say without hearing it , does it go away when driving and only occurs during turning or is it just a constant whine whilst driving
Thanks mate I normally use landrover parts and accessories Australia as I've found them great to deal with and are a small local business when I'm not in rush for parts When I'm in a rush for parts I use rovacraft there more expensive to buy from but generally have what I need on the shelf
Hello, i am thinking my LR3 needs this service (i just bought her so i want to get all the preventive and corrective maintenance done before off roading) i noticed that when you were draining the pan the shifter linkage was moving, was the car on and were you shifting from P to D?? if the car indeed has to be on while draining the fluid can it damage the tranny? Thanks
Hey ambient car was not on just ignition I just do it to see if any more all comes out when I select the gears * car not running * Correct, running the trans with no oil damages the lube pump I definetly don't recommend doing it 🍻
@@OUTBACKDiscovery Thanks, i figured that it was off but i am new to landys and so far they are different from any car ive had before, just wanted to double check. Thanks
Cheers for the quick reply mate, I might order a ryco kit in instead of running the repco one they have in stock 👍 did a mega flush about 2 months ago and will finish the job properly next week with a new filter. The new shed you got looks the goods mate, more room to store spares 🤣
Hey Ryan I'm a diesel mechanic by trade so it's part of my daily work knowing oils and servicing In regards to me Only running the life gaurd oil that's because when my transmission was failing I serviced it and used penrite bmv The gearbox would slip like crazy and was un drivable so I dropped the penrite oil and put the lifegaurd 6 back in and it was drivable until I could afford the rebuild
It’s really nice to be able to do what you do. Is there anywhere that I’d be able to learn it? Obviously besides apprenticeships with a mechanic, as I already have a day job 😀
@@OUTBACKDiscovery mad video aswell clear as, my backs fecked out so my mates doing the service for me. want to front load him with info so he can focus on spanners and not research
Also Stephen if you trans has the plastic transmission sump then the filter.is built into it and alot harder to get out There is a video showing you how to cut the filter neck that's built into the sump with a hacksaw blade so that you don't have to remove the crossmember and jack the trans up slightly U just unbolt the sump and you will get a 20mm gap which is a enough to see in there to spot the filter so you can cut it by hand with a hacksaw blade Good luck and also good luck with your back
That's the first time I've ever heard that Specially considering the manual I use states to use the filler bung that I used But if it works for you then each to there own 🍻
Sorry mate but you’ve done half a job there…..3.5 litres of dirty oil is still left in the torque converter and pipes……next time go through the oil cooler under the bonnet.
It's a service rather then a flush dude it's not half a job but you are correct it is only doing half the oil which Is why I do it every 30 thousand as you can't get all the oil out of the torque converter without starting the car to pump it out which I dont agree with unless doing the litre in litre out method until clean oil is coming out of cooler return line If I just drain oil from the cooler line without engine on and fresh oil in sump you still have dirty oil in torque converter so there is little difference aswell as cooler pipework being higher then trans sump hence why I just do it through the trans pan Whole system holds around 9 litres
If you came up to anyone in my trade over here and asked for a screw you would get a self tapper, If you have to run a tap to cut a thread into something before bolting it in then we call it a bolt * in the case a torx head bolt * Screws get left to construction workers Bolts get used for for mechanical parts Atleast thats how we are taught here in Australia 🤣 Also part description for the bolt is torx head bolt so I'm unsure as to who told you there a screw
I agree with @@OUTBACKDiscovery (though i'm a ex-aussie too). Technically they are 'set screws' if they look like some sort of bolt but are threaded the whole length. Then you have permutations thereof such as 'cap screws' etc. Broadly, i use screws into wood, bolts into metal.