I love Lanoguard and I use it myself on my 06 Mitsubishi with very good results. it almost seems to get under the rust and push it off meaning future treatments get easier and more effective. Having said that, there are still parts I like to paint, specifically my tow assembly. For things like this I can highly recommend Buzzweld products , their rust encapsulating primer and non hardening chassis paint are excellent and well worth a look if your into painting bits and pieces under your car.
This is right up my street as I too have an FL2 and a Series 3. I’ve been using the kurust over the last couple months and personally I’ve found it to be pretty good, so much so I ordered another pot. Done various bits on the series and it’s turned black and looks good. I also done the rear subframe on the Freelander and again it went on fine, the key is not to go mad when applying it as it does drip everywhere. I find aesthetically it looks better to apply the kurust then go over with a wax protection. I bought some Bilt Hamber clear wax and it’s superb. Done round the wheel arch lips on the Freelander and it dries lovely and dirt isn’t meant to stick to it. Been meaning to try the Lanoguard for some time so really interested in this and forthcoming videos.
Did Lanogaurd on my FL2 a few months ago during the nice long stretch of summer days we had. Took alot longer to dry than it said it would but it went on easy and makes everything look nice and black. Wire brushed everything before hand.
My FL2 actually had superficial surface rust in exactly the same places as yours. Just had the full dinitrol treatment at South West Rust Centre and although expensive was comprehensive and nothing I could have achieved on my driveway. Hopefully worth the investment on a 15 year old LR 🙏
Hi Scott. According to the Lanoguard information it is just a direct spray on and forget. Well that is until next year. Lanoguard is an annual application. I had just removed my trim sills prior to selling. Yes you were correct, What hides behind them! a huge fresh air gapping hole it was serious. I had to cut, fabricate, weld 1mm steel right up to 12 o'clock to the wheel arch rim, which fell away when the inner arch liner and rubber trim were removed. No Isopon or fibreglass used. Hope all work's out well. Did you ever get any further with the Haldex project? or is it on the back burner?
I’ve removed my wheel arch liners recently and treated behind, but never removed the sill covers. Will do that soon. Haldex is on my list. This autumn hopefully!
I filmed that last October. I got underneath a couple of weekends ago and it it didn’t look too bad, but did need another application in some areas. It was a hot day so I painted the moto grease on with a brush.
@@BeavisPits my rear disks were binding on my freelander 2 and the hubs got very hot, I tryed to replace the pistons and seals but in the end had to replace the rear calipers for new units this fixed the problem.
