Subbed, excellent, excellent, and once again EXCELLENT tutorial on your Lathe operations! Having just retired from bus driving--(of all things!!)--I find your tutorials on this subject matter at once knowledgeable and concise, and your safety advise second to none. (And by the way your particular food is to die for!!) Your knowledge of this particular subject, AND your own safety protocols, make me want to try Lathe working again. I DID say that I want to try ''Lathe working again'' did I not!?! Well, I did start machining work--(not in particular ''LATHE working!)--in the late ''70's, met my wife at the local bus depot at Interview, and we've been married for a VERY long time, and I've been a bus and coach driver ever since, when I had a double heart bypass and a hip operation last year, when retirement swiftly followed!!! So now.....I'm wanting to go and enrol at a ''Men's Shed'', who do all manner of things ''men'', woodwork, metalwork--(I'm hoping Lathe work too!)--computer work etc etc. If not, then I will hope to enrol at a local college nearest me for college courses. I think only Scotland has these ''men's'' shed's, which is where I am at, in North East Scotland. A brief synopsis, I grant you, but Thank You for your time Sir! (Mikky, on his wife's computer.....shhh!!)
Thanks John! You’re doing a real service for those of us struggling to come up to speed on our machining! I’d love to see an episode on using the boring bar on the lathe, as I’ve always struggled with the proper setup. Thanks for these John!
Good video for showing how to set one up. Providing the stock is actually round. When you're working with either ERW, or HRS, tubing.......it's another matter entirely. The inherent runout in the material forces you to use a cat head to do the setup. Or turn a journal on the piece if allowed. I hate the stuff, but I'm forced to work with it. Take care.
If only you knew a machinist who could make you a long, thin clamping nut. (everybody's a comic). Seriously though I like this series. Most channels did this back in the day but they're buried in the archive. You a doing a real service. I always learn something new or different.
Cheers John. All good info. Your observations are all spot on. I retrieved mine recently and spent quite a while freeing up the adjuster screws and plungers. I don't think it had ever been used. Likewise the faceplate and a drive plate (safety type) They both had factory type anti corrosion coating on them. My steady had never been used but one of the clamps was missing. Making a new one was a quick and easy task and made it better than using a G clamp like I had been. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
I've been looking for a steady-rest for my Colchester 1800 for ages, I bet there's one in a cupboard with a rusty faceplate somewhere out there! Very tempted to make one, getting it cut from a bit of two inch plate, but life's too short somehow...
Good demonstration. There are situations where the technique shown won't work, e.g. the work is larger at the chuck end than the tail stock end where you need to set the steady rest. A simple tool you can make gets around this difficulty. Take a small diameter bar, 1/2"-3/4" would be fine, about 5 or 6 inches long and cross drill it near one end for a rod to pass through. Drill and tap for a set screw in the end of the bar to hold the rod in place. Now to set the steady rest, take your new tool to the surface plate and holding it in a vee-block set the rod with a height gage so that the rod projects to the radius of the diameter where you want to place the steady rest. Put you tool in the chuck and use the rod to adjust the rollers or pads on the steady rest. Move the steady rest to where you need it and Bob's your uncle. Cheers from NC/USA
John, excellent as usual. (For Schools standard). I've used a fixed steady quite often in my career as a woodwind instrument repair technician. Clarinet joint in a protected chuck (minus keys and needle springs), with a fixed steady on one end, so that you can concentrically bore out and replace a tenon in the centre of the instrument, when someone (usually) has sat on it. One thing that I've never done, or been shown how to do, is trepanning. Would you mind demonstrating that for us please? Nothing too elaborate; I just want to know when to stop cutting and what happens if you cut too far. Best.
I've trepanned a few big holes in bits of plate on the lathe, the only thing I would say is to stop the cut just before you break through and maybe knock the slug out with a hammer because if you cut right through, the slug can drop/twist and jams against the tool, breaking your carefully ground cutter in an instant. David Wilks hasn't posted for a couple of years, but still check out his channel, he's the Lord and Master of trepanning !
yes great video again John , just how it should be , you dont miss much do you you ol bugger , keep up the good work John just love watching all your videos mate , regards from essex
Hi John Enjoy your videos, can you use a steady to machine a long bar to size in conjunction with a moving centre? If so what's the best way? I need to machine a new draw bar for my mill. Thread on both ends and a collar about a third from the end. Thanks
