I just put a kholer motor in a craftsman mower and that is the exact problem I had. I was pulling my hair out trying to figure it out,this video was awesome THANK YOU!!!!
Thank you so very much. I could not find a diaode at any of the repair shops that weren't at least a week out for delivery. I went to a lawnmower graveyard and cut one off and it worked! My mower started and I was able to mow the yard. Whew!!!
Thanks for this, the diode checked good with meter but after applied 12 volts it failed, Could not buy a diode locally so I soldered in a old car alternator diode. Would have never found this problem without this video. My local large equipment dealer never sold one. Previous owner jumped the fuse out and engine would stop after the clutch was left out.
GREAT video!! I work on lawnmowers and have never heard of this problem. I'm going to buy some of those diodes just to keep in stock. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
Oh my god you just saved my wallet and my weekend!! i put a new ignition switch in and all the sudden it started blowing fuses so i checked everything and now i just went and bought new everything and would have never even known about diodes .. thank you
I love your projects and your videos always show some remarkable builds or restorations….who the hell knew you would do a video on a tractor I have been sidelined with for over 2 weeks so far… I hope to find the diode and get it running again
Good catch,you helped so many with your videos. Thanks,for sharing your knowledge.That diode may be the rectifier which sends dc pulses to charge the battery, Too many mowers have that dead battery problem.Great.!
bad idea tha also is cooking the insulation on the wireing correct way use ohm meter elcheapo will work dis conn pos batt lead connect red ohmeter lead to disc battry lead set on ohms scale connect black meter lead to neg ground post the reading you see is tbl find it by disc. i wire at a time if no change reconn that wire only have i at disc at a time should be able to find where its coming from if its a naked wire tape it if its apiece of equip . replace it lots a luck
Same as putting the penny in the fuse box, OH Daddy the lites are back on, ur a genuis. 2:am the house is ablaze, yeah dad's a freaking whiz kid! u jus' love that magic smoke!
I had a 1969 Sears Suburban with the 12 hp Tecumseh and let me tell ya pal. That tractor is still running like a tank for the guy who bought it from my back in 2009.
Great video! I just cleaned w/WD-40 all the points mentioned. The connection under the seat was impacted with dirt and mud. I checked everything including the spark plug. Reconnected everything and turned the key...BROOOOOOOOMMMM!!! =D
Good find on the diode. I was a Craftsman road tech for four years, didn't meet this problem but those relays, if your machine is left in the weather, those were prone to get moisture inside because of the way the were mounted. Be sure they hang so that water can't enter the case where they snap together.
Nay help for me? I live in Florida so the lawn tractor never sit for more than 2 weeks. I would not think my problem is fuel or carburetor. I use PRI stabilizer in all lawn work fuel. Starter fluid & carburetor cleaner made no difference. My Sears Craftsman model 917.270810 lawn tractor. The tractor turns over very fast with no hesitation or drag but does not seem to get a spark (it acts the same with a plug wire off). The last time I used it I needed to change one plug & it ran fine. This time it started, ran for about 3 minutes & stopped. I have not been able to get it started since. It has new plugs properly gapped with wire connected, both air filters are new, the fuel flows through the fuel filter, the battery is fully charged, the battery terminals are clean, oil is clean, new fuse, no debris on the mower, belts are good. The mower will not turn over (& it should not) with the brake/clutch petal not depressed or with the mower engaged which leads me to believe it is not those safety switches (it turns over properly with the safety switches on). The seat safety switch has not worked for years. I have not been able to test the solenoid but the wires are attached correctly. I also thought it would not even turn over with a bad solenoid. It does seem like a spark issue.
gatorDennis Dennis, the only conclusion I draw is that the ign. coil has failed or one of the safety switches has gone amok. Having gone through tests for combustion, that seems to be eliminated as a problem but the opposed twin B&S engines did have fuel pump failures and a carb. that is prone to contamination in the float chamber. you can try gapping the plugs closer to see if some spark will jump with the plug body grounded against the engine.
I have a 1998 craftsman 971270940 with a 20hp briggs, look identical to the mower pictured here except my gas tank is mounted beneath the seat, and the battery is under the hood. I have a quick question, Everything on my mower is working, except the lights. I've replaced the bulbs, Ive checked and cleaned connections from the ignition with all the way to the bulbs, still not working :( any thoughts or ideas?
Tough to say without having the machine here, could be alotta things!! Check to make sure you're getting juice outta the wire coming off the stator!! If you're getting juice, then check all your wires for continuity, you might have a break in a wire that you can't see!!☺
805ROADKING, many thanks for uploading this video brother. I had exactly the same problem and I figured it might be a diode but was damned if I could find the damn thing. Watched your video and now I know, I just checked on my tractor and it was in the same place and sure as shit it's blown. Again many thanks for the upload.
I can't really diagnose an electrical problem without being there Bud!! But the first thing you gotta do is see if you have any bare wires touching the frame anywhere, sounds like you're getting a dead short somewhere!!☺
Nice job figuring that one out. Should have a couple of good mowers there. My New Holland died in the woods the other day. Took me a while to figure it out, but it turned out to be a stick that pulled some wires loose that went to a neutral safety switch.
Not sure if anyone gives a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times then you can stream all the new movies and series on instaflixxer. Been binge watching with my girlfriend for the last couple of weeks =)
those briggs go for ever! i have one similar only a 12hp though but its gone for 4 years with out an oil change. i really should do an oil change on it LOL! but good repair man! now she cranks!
I have a craftsman 24 hp brig and Stratos riding mower.i was mowing and it started smoking I shut the mower off right away and killed the engine. Looking at it I found part of the starter laying on the ground. I took it off and had the starter rebuilt.i put back together got on and tried to start it. I wasn't getting any fire to the motor so I thought that maybe the coil went bad so I put a new coil on it I have traced wires and checked safety switches for three days know including checking the starter switch with know luck . I was told to turn to you all for any information you can give.thanks.
I don't remember exactly where it was, I sold that mower. it was hidden in shrink tube inside the wiring harness near the engine. Check the internet there are plenty of wiring schematics. on some schematics they call it a protection loop (part# 141940). If it is a model with the diode just keep squeezing the harness and you will feel it!!☺
Those Kohlers have a heavy duty charging system with regulator. Usually those diodes fail when someone connects the battery up reverse polarity or if the charging unit fails or regulator. They have an alternating generator under the flywheel. The diode obviously makes AC to DC...
Got a question hopin you can help. Got a 42 in 17.5 briggs that will crank and i got spark but no headlights and no gas and after checking with a test light i got hot juice on the negative side of my headlight plug.
I have a john Deere STX 30, STX 38 Yellow deck and STX 46 Black deck . The 30 is 5speed doesn't go electrical harness has been butchered . The STX 38 Has starter motor / wiring harness issues , and the STX46 has a problem with PTO , The PTO switch melted and I replaced it but the PTO doesn't engage and the plug that goes into the PTO itself is partially melted and must have shorted or something ? Is there a way to make these things just start & blades go with a lever or something simple or do you know what caused my prob and what is it ? Or was it just that it got hot and melted shit ?I haven't been able to get a harness for my STX 30 here in Australia All my mowers have had people hack at the harness's ?? Drives me mad how people cant at least colour code or replace instead of hack the wires in everything
its easy to get a wireing diagram for most mowers on line use the model # it will take the guess work out you can see where each wire gos its kinda like reading a road map also helps with color code on wires
Need help for Murray riding mower. The briggs starts OK and runs until I let the clutch out. So I replaced the brake/clutch switch and the PTO switch. The problem remains the same. So I replaced the ignition switch which did not help. It starts and runs until I let the clutch out. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks...jz
I have a craftsman that was given to me about two months ago just like that one. I ordered a new starter and solenoid but while beating the crap out of the starter because it was stuck I noticed there was a fuse that had blown- not sure if its the replacement for that diode or not but its good to know to look for this afternoon when I get back started. Thanks
I've got an issue. I've got a 2005 Craftsman Lawn Tractor and just had the alternator replaced and went ahead and replaced the regulator while Sears was doing the work. I noticed later that the amp meter is on the negative side during idle. When I engage the blades, the amp meter shows in the middle - not to the positive. Also, when I engage the blades, the blades engage slow and finally get faster. Directly, after the repair Tech did the work the blades engaged normally. He didn't notice the amp meter nor did I at the time. I'm going to have the Tech come back and test the system with a meter. Also, look at the blade issue. I'm thinking that there isn't sufficient power to engage the blades normally. I was able to mow my yard OK and finish. I forsee the issue draining the battery. The mower has a brand new battery - just got it.
Hi Roadking, We have the same mower but when I release the clutch it shuts off - I took the switch off and it checked out (one NO & one NC) can you post the wiring diagram? I think the white or black safety loops is turning it off. Thanks, Paul
What causes my cub cadet 105 to keep tying to start when the key is off, the starter generator keeps turn when key is off, I replace ignition switch, solenoid, rebuilt the starter generator. I'm clueless.
My mower wouldnt start and after running a few tests the starter was shorting out. so i replaced the starter and it cranks but now i dont get a spark or lights any ideas would be help full thanks
I have a 10 year old craftsman 18HP. It worked fine except for the brakes. I adjusted the brake as per the owners manual, but it was too tight after I loosened it back up now the engine dies when releasing the clutch or trying to engage the mower deck. I checked the safety switch and they are all OK. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
Butch Keller Mr. Keller have you found your problem on your mower? Having the same difficulty. It will run but won't when I release the clutch or engage the cutter. please respond.
I ordered 10 pieces of 10 amp/1000 volt diodes from Ebay back in Dec 2017 for $1.24 delivered from China. I use them fairly often between the center 12 volt postive post of rectifiers and the battery when I am building something.
That diode is for the alternator so the battery doesn’t back feed power into the alternator which without one it will fry the alternator so I bet that diode was shorted and the current from the battery popped it
Thanks man, excellent help for me. Looking for a diaode now and why my LT1000Craftsmen wont recharge its battery. It wont keep running nnow thought it is the coil but bet its the diaode. Thanks again, very throughal.
Nice bit of detective work! I have a 23 HP Kohler on a 2000 Craftsman. My problem is that there is a short somewhere that cuts in and out after it runs. I mess with the wires and it kicks on....then it is dead....I have bypassed the seat switch, clutch safety etc. So now am looking to find the problem any ideas?
I just got a mower. Fuse would blow as soon as I put it in. Saw your video and checked my diode. It is missing. The wires were wired together. The previous owner would always jump start the mower. I want to put one on like yours but need the part no. Could you post the diode spec no's. I get like 28 volts ac so think yours would work. Where might I get one since radio shack doesnt have them? Thanks for the help!
i was going to say sounded like the Kohler has a bad ignition switch in it. didn't know anything about that "protection loop" that's pretty slick. my craftsman is getting ready to go to the scrap heap. I am taking the 16 HP motor out of it incase the Kawasaki in my JD ever goes south on me that way wat least i have something to put back in it and with a little more umph too because what's in it is a 14 and the one in the craftsman is a 16 but none of the tires stay up on it and the deck is shot
@aaadream Thanks Bud!! I agree with ya on the shit blades, the ones on the briggs are bent and twisted like a pretzel. I think I'll check out those Gators!!☺
i am looking at the wiring diagram on tht mower it call for a 30 app fuse if you put i a15 itwill blow while the fuse is out with everthing off put meter on the eng side not the battery side set on ohms should nort see any thing unless you have a lead grounded smewhere
Looks like the Diode was built into the the black wire coming from the Stater. I just replaced my Stater because the battery wasn't charging. I"ll have to check the old wiring to see if the Diode is in it.
Thanks alot Bud!! I pretty sure they all do, some have something they call a Protection Loop that does the same thing. I never swap a motorcycle battery for a lawn tractor battery. you would probably be alright because that might not be an original battery!!☺
1n5804 should be the correct one. 1KW 3A. You can grab a pack of 2 , 1N5404 400v 3A at Radio shack for a few bucks and that should work. Had the same problem. When putting in a new solenoid and then a battery it fired up. when locking down the battery I hit the positive terminal on the frame. blew the diode and blew my fuse as soon as placed.Replaced with 400v diode then took off the positive terminal... make sure all switches are closed and ground the + to frame to discharged. fired right up.
I have a LT 1000. Turn key and I hear a slight click. New battery and same problem. When i depress bake/ clutch pedal, nothing happens. Fuse good, ignition good. Is there a safety switch with the brake/cluthc assembly.
ok, I had an 1981 CB900 custom that had the same paint design. My bike was burgundy muse red. If you look through my vids I have a few off it. It looked more brown than anything.
I have a craftsman fs5500, I was cutting with it and had to answer a phone call so I disengaged the blades and turned off the mower, after I restarted the mower, the blades would not engage? I looked for fusses with no luck, can anyone help me fine the problem?
