LAWN TRACTOR REPAIR how to diagnose and correct engine valve issues 

I went through everything possible on my 16hp engine, valves, battery, connections, solenoid, spark plug, replaced carb. shutoff valve, etc. and it still started hard (turning over freely). SOLUTION which worked for me - the oil was just on the high side by just a smidge - I changed the oil but only filled it to just below the bottom line on the dip stick, and i'm talking a typing paper thickness gap below the low line. Engine turns over instantly and works great. The engine doesn't like to have too much oil in it I found. Worked.

I had this EXACT scenario outlined in this video with my 2008 46" Craftsman riding mower. Once I took the valve cover off, it was immediately evident that this was the problem. It took about 10 minutes to put the piston cap back on and tighten the bolt. Once I put everything back together, it now runs like brand new. Thank you so much for posting this video. You saved me hundreds of dollars in repair bills.

Thank you for this video. I had almost the exact same issue. 12.5 HP B&S on a Snapper. Suddenly started running rough and lost power and barely ran. It was blowing back through the air intake... seemed like a timing issue. I checked the likely suspects... spark and fuel but they seemed okay. I thought maybe a flywheel key but since the blade isn't attached directly to the crankshaft and I hadn't hit anything with the blade, I thought that wouldn't be too likely. So, I started checking the internet and came across your RU-vid video. The symptoms for your motor were very similar to mine. So I pulled the valve cover and sure enough the top rocker arm stud had backed out. Followed your instructions for repair and now it purrs like a kitten... if that can be said about a 1 cyl B&S motor. Thanks again!!!

This is EXACTLY what happened to my mower and this video saved my ass! Thanks!

Thanks for this. Trying to repair my still brand new Murray with a Briggs PowerBuilt™ Series engine. I purchased this 2 years ago. It's still brand new cause I didn't even get 2 complete mows out of it before the carb butterfly broke and apparently the intake rod went through the rocker. Recently replaced the carb and rocker and didn't even think to check the stud. Not getting any movement on the intake to be able to adjust that. I think maybe the rod is bent. Stupid me didn't bother to pull it all the way out cause there's another part that has to come off to do so. This mower has been a nightmare, but it's forcing me to learn more about repairing small engines, so I have to be thankful for that, at least. Also, I learned from another video that the big box stores generally don't bother to make sure the valve adjustments, deck adjustments, etc., etc. are set correctly before selling them, and the factory obviously doesn't bother with these important aspects either, so the consumer buys them thinking they're ready to use when they really need to be checked over and adjustments properly set. No wonder there's so much disappointment with certain brands, even though most have the exact same engines, etc.

this video was dead on. I repaired my Briggs in 15 minutes. thank you!

Thank you so much!! I thought that I'd be sending it to John Deere. Did what you did an it worked like a charm!! I don't have the money for a new mower so you saved me some money. Thanks so much!!!!!!!!

Do not start engine for 24 hours. Thead lock has to be cured and min 12 hrs at room temp and just to be sure let it sit oil free for 24 hours. Now if you had a lot of slop in the treads due to rattling and backing out you would have to change to a thead coumpoud which holds when cured at a higher gap. Nice video on one of the caused of a loose or excessive valve gap.

You need to check the valve clearance for your specific engine. A lot of the time the two will have a different clearance.

Thank You!!! I worked on my craftsman Briggs 21 hp alllllllll day. It would just spin. Tried everything. Turns out my exhaust valve rocker came off because of a loose stud/anchor bolt. Tightened everything up and it started right up. I subbed!!! Thanks again

I thought this video said 10 minutes ago...10 YEARS ago. I see. Still perfect info.

By far the best video I've seen all the videos I've seen people just tighten them back up they never put any Loctite I'm glad you did when I saw you put Loctite on that boat it was so fulfilling

hey got it running i think it was the torque the whole time . i retorqued it and it fired right up. It still cranks a little slow but my battery is not the greatest. Thank you for all your help you are the god of all things lawn mower appreciate your time

Wow I can’t believe nothing broke with how loose that was crazy…👍👍👍

thank's for the info on the valves, I have always had trouble with both of my mowers after one year. now they run like a new one you opened my eyes I was lost now I see the light thank's to you so very much I liked your video it helped very much good luck to you.

Hi Jeremy. I have an 18hp Briggs & Stratton single cylinder. After 7-9 minutes run time it boggs down and wants to stall out. If I either stop moving forward or disengage the mower deck it'll come out of it. I then can mower another 7-9 seconds before it does it again. I have cleaned the carb, ran Seafoam in the fuel, checked the gas vent for air flow, and looked at the spark plug. I used brake clean to verify no intake air leaks. Checked the fuel cut off solenoid (appears to be ok...I disconnected it while it was running to see if it would shut the gas off and it did, I also checked it out when I cleaned the carb). The last resort has been the secondary ignition water test. I poured water on the coil and then all along the spark plug wire. The engine spit and sputtered when the water was poured on the spark plug boot. I dried it off and checked with a grounded screw driver to see how long a spark would arc (approx 3/8"). Other than this being the potential issue, what else could cause the dieing of the motor? What gets me is that if I stop and disengage the mower deck for a few seconds I then can get another 7-9 seconds run time before it does it again. Please let me know what you think. Thanks! cjgraber74@gmail.com

Thanks for your video, clear and easy to understand. I was able to adjust my valves and get my mower running thanks to this video and save myself a bunch of cash!!! :-)

I would like to Thank You for posting this I had looked my 17.5 HP Ariens all over could not figure it out, I thought it was water in fuel. So drained and replaced along with a new spark plug. To no avail. I found this video sure enough same issue intake valve rocker stud had backed out and was the issue. Ty again you saved my temper from going out and buying a new mower and this one just turned 3 and has always been stored under cover. :)~

I have a B/S OHV 17.50 and I am getting way to much gas into the cylinder even setting re set Valves was my firs thought do you know what I may look at next ...thanks and you all are a big help to us old DIYer's

I have a 21 HP Briggs Gold Series on a Craftsman rider. Week or so ago I mowed about 1/4 acre, shut it off and 10 minutes later it would only spin over and not start. Waited about 1/2 our and went to check on it and it started. I mowed about 3/4 acre and put it up. Few days later I went to mow and went about 200 feet and it just shut down. Thinking it was the fuel shut off solenoid I pulled it out and removed the little rubber tip. Started and mowed that 3/4 acre. I just put a manual shut off on it and called it good. Well, I mowed the 3/4 acre yesterday with no issues. Today I started to mow the front yard and I went about 200 feet again and it quit. Pushed it in the garage and checked to see if anything might be in the fuel tank. Pulled it and flushed it out. Checked to see if fuel was getting through and it was. Pulled the plug wire and checked the Magnetron and it tested okay. It isn't firing at all. Put a new plug in the plug wire and spun it over, no fire. So I pulled the upper shroud and unplugged the kill wire and tried it again. Still no fire. Just for grins I checked the flywheel key and it's fine. I notice when it cranks over I'm getting a little puffing out of the intake. That doesn't seem right.

I thought you where supposed to set valves 1/4 " after tdc?

G'day Jeremy, Wow, you had a winner there for just a short amount of time working on it. I'd like to ask, I'm thinking of getting an MTD Lawn Tractor with the 22HP B&S V-Twin motor in it. From what I'm seeing and finding is that the Newer B&S V-Twin's are the way to go over some of the older model motors. I don't have a lot of experience in working on these smaller motors, I've done Ford Winder/Cleveland V8 motor stuff but now any lawn tractors. Any help or places I'm able to get workshop manuals to help me work on these motors would be great. Plus, any info or feed back to these motors would be greatly appreciated. I'm from down under Australia, Victoria. Again, Many thanks for anything you can give me on info with B&S motors etc. Cheers, Kev.

Hi Jeremy, I have a B and S 21 Intek that has lost most of its power and is kindof backfiring or "puffing" into the carb on every stroke. I have adjusted the valves and even checked the shear key thinking i had a timing issue. (it was fine) I dont know what else to do. Thanks so much for your help !!

Thanks for doing this video... It was exactly what my problem was.

I have a real problem! I was a small engine mechanic in the 1970, and have forgotten somethings and updates have me in the dark also. I have and engine that stopped running and won't start. It turns over but looking in the intake of the carburetor I am getting blow back. I checked the valves and both were set correct on 5/1000 and no seen damage. I'm thinking I have internal damage, but don't hear any bad noise. Could be a issue with the key in the shaft? or a cracked valve, what do you think? thank you Ed

Just Simply......Thanks for taking the time and making these videos.

I have a question , I have a Craftsman 24 hp , 42" riding mower electric start automatic transmission, it's about 13 yrs old. While mowering last August, I heard a a pop sound, and the mower went dead. Since weather was nearing I waited until spring to attempt repairs. I opened the valve cover and discovered that the lifters were frozen and would not depress on both sides. The oil residue appeared burnt. After removing the valve heads and attempting to rotate the flywheel to see if the cylinders would move they wouldn't. I believed that my problem now is either the fly wheel key or a broken connecting rob. Could you please do a show on how to repair this issue...Thanks

Why did you skip the part about finding TDC (top dead center). ? How does one do that ?

good video. My 15.5HP ( 2003 ) Intek overhaed valve assembly has an exhaust valve that is barely moving. ITs been sitting a long time. The pushrod when removed looks good as it is not bent or warped and rolls perfectly down a flat surface. The valve is not completely closing. It is stuck which is why it is blowing back. I will pull the cyl head and check it out. Question: Are most intek OHV engine head compatible? Can I swap one from a similar intek onto this 15.5HP?

I enjoyed your repair and need to adjust my valves. Thanks

Thank you so much for the lesson

cub cadet twin cylinder runs great then it stumbles pops somewhat a touch of black smoke if I stop cutting for a moment it clears up runs good for a while new carb ideas needed only does it under load thanks

Wish you had shown how to adjust the valves clearances for that’s the most important thing you could have shown. Thanks

Hi, I have the 17.5 engine as well. My problem that just started is it will blow white smoke out of the exhaust when I rev to high. Never done this before until now. I looked down in the carb and see oil as well. Just changed the oil 3 months ago and never had a problem until now. Your videos are helpful but I can't seem to find the solution I'm looking for. Any help would be appreciated!

My Briggs and Stratton riding lawn mower over heated I have a miss good orange spark and good compression I removed the valve cover I don't see any loose rocker. What else can I check

I have a craftsman yts 3000 21hp Briggs and Stratton. One of the lifters is stuck when I turn the motor over it not go down but the other one will. How do I get it unstuck

After mowing 30 minutes, the zero turn's motor ( a B&S v twin) started gray smoking and blowing a lot oil out of the exhaust. What is your guess caused this?

Good job mowermedic

i believe i have oil seeping from my rocker cover gasket. i`m going to change it myself, first time doing this. can i change the gasket and not have to worry about the vales. makes me nervous because i`ve never adjusted valves and really just want to change that gasket and go

I worked on this same engine in a craftsman lawn tractor but it backfires and pops through the intake. When I opened up the valve cover there was the valve stem cap laying in the bottom of the head like yours did but not sure if this has two or one? Does it need both to run properly? After I put it back on the bottom valve and reassembled everything it still pops.

I have a 12.5 engine built in 2007. Do you know what is the gap on the valves for this engine? Under the cover mine looks just like yours in the video. Which one is the exhaust? Mine seems to be spitting out of the carb. Thanks.

valve adjustments are not warranty you are a lucky one!

I have a Briggs & Stratton 18 hp motor model 31P777-0299-E1 on a Craftsman LT2000 tractor model 917.273756. My issue is that it was running fine then quit in the middle of a cut. It will fire up, but won't continue running. After checking the fuel solenoid, fuel filter, breather filter, and all else involving the carburetor, I watched your video and I pulled the valve cover to check the rocker arm lash gap. I set the valves at TDC, but there is no gap. The rocker arms are hard against the push rods. Also when I pulled the plug there was a lot of oil on it, but it wasn't smoking when running and the oil has no gasoline smell. The dipstick also shows oil on the full mark, not above. The engine turns well too. Any thoughts?

Well good memory. It still starts like the valves need adjusted but they are where they are supposed to be oh well it runs thanks for your help

Wanted to find out what the issue is on the Troy Bilt when I get a puff of white smoke from the exhaust, and then not long after, I get black smoke coming from the exhaust.Engine did not sound great. I had checked oil before riding it, and even added a bit. Any ideas?

Do both valves have the hardened cap ?Tore my 14.5 hp down,,only to find the exhaust{top} had a cap. Model #287707. Still wont start,,lots of pressure coming back thru breather . This engine ran fine till Ishut it down & it backfired.Key way perfect.Head removed,gasket perfect. replaced all componants,,same problem. tore engine down,cam in time,BUT,I found 2 valve caps in crankcase.

At 3:17 in the video, my 17.5 Briggs and Stratton is starting to make that noise upon start ups. Except I have to lower the idle and then raise and sometimes the engine is stubborn and continues to make rough idle. The plug and air filter were installed recently. Could the rough idle on start up be the carburetor? It's an MTD riding mower that's 13 years old with 160 hours and never had carb worked on.

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!! Excellent video, this helped me solve the issues I had on my mower.

How about using a Gapping Gauge. When you are adjusting the Valve Rocker Arms.

the specs are intake 4-7 th exhaust 5-8 th i like to use the lower end of the scale 5 and 5 is perfectly fine

Thanks for a thorough explanation of the Briggs valve train. .05 thousands for valve clearance ? I set mine with my a little farther out. Seems to run a little cooler.

i have a ( USED to me) 17HP briggs and the fuel solenoid leaks bad from the bottom, i have tried making a few different gasket, but it still leaks. i think my gaskets are sealing okay. but i see fuel dripping from the power and ground wire of solenoid. noy around my gasket. can fuel leak down the center of the solenoid , around the pin that goes up and down when the coil is energized?

replaced bad cam in 17.5 hp engine, set timing mark dots on crank gear and cam, adjusted valves to specs at tdc spun without plug, tried to crank and got a bad backfire?

Just picked up an older Craftsman dls3500 and have a question. It starts, runs and mows like a dream but puffs a little bit of blue smoke on shutdown. What would be the most likely cause? Got the mower for free.

I have a question why when I turn on the engine, the exhaust and the carburetor explode thank you

I'm getting fire and I'm getting gas. I adjusted the valves but it is still backfiring through the carburetor and exhaust. Do I have a stuck valve or do you have another suggestion?

ok, on a troy built 6.25 and a craftsman 7.25 lawn mower with the B/S engine self chocking carb, why is it that when either of them, when they run out of gas and you put gas right back in them, bother act like the chock comes on then off then on then on then off, runs bad but when you loosen up the bowl bolt/ botton jet nut and let a little gas out and then re-tighten it back up it/ both run like there was no problem, I hope you understand whet I'm trying to say. thanks

Good lesson ... I think that's what my problem is too

Morning I have a Briggs 12.5 IC Replace carb, new fuel lines, new filter, Starts fine then runs 5-10 minutes then runs rough, repeat procedure after letting engine cool, again same problem, Cleared Gas Cap for ventilation. Any thoughts?

I've got a Troy-Bilt Pony mower that's about 6 years old. About 3 years ago the battery died and I'd been jump starting it and did that for about 2 years. Then it sat idle for about a year when I had someone else doing the mowing. When it was idle, it was in the garage so it's not been exposed to the weather. The other day I put a new battery in it and now it cranks just fine, but will not start. Any ideas? Thanks!

i got a 11.5 hp Briggs and Strat its on a snapper mower it starts fine cold but after a wile it keeps cutting out when its running and then dosent start up when its hot . and replaced the seat safety switch that help it a little , but now im thinking its more the magneto but idk any advice thanks

I think I may have similar problem on a 14.5 HP briggs OHV. My question is that cap you found, does it just snap back on? I have one that came off as well. I look at a parts list and I see it being called a valve keeper with the cap and a couple of split rings. Thanks in advance for any help.

hi, i have a 12.5 Briggs and stratton mower on a toro horo chassis. Model 282707 for engine. its start very well. when its warm after cutting for about 20 minutes, she starts misfiring then eventually back fires then shuts down. The plug has fouled and it has black suit. what could the problem be.

i adjusted the valves on mine and it starts but it is misfiring and popping back into the intake at high rpm. I clipped the carb fuel solenoid, cleaned the carb real good and installed a new plug and the spark is good and blue but im running out of ideas? hopefully you might know something i don't thanks

craftsman yts 3000 22 hp briggs and stratton engine circa 2010. Engine does exactly what is shown in the video. Opened up the OHV cover and one of mine (intake I think but not sure) is loose and valve tip was off -- exactly like in the video. I pulled the arm out to inspect it but then it went to far in its housing and now having trouble getting it out. I havent taken the rocker itself off so that is probably what I will be doing. I did see a little bit of oil in the OHV cover. Is that normal to be there or is that indication of worse problems? Just for reference, I was mowing the grass and the engine just shut off on its own kind of like what happens if you run out of gas -- however I didnt run out of gas and haven't been able to get it started since. This video gives me a tiny bit of hope it might be able to be fixed. Thank you.

Dead on! Thanks very much. After exhausting all other possibilities I suspected valves so Googled and found your video, pulled the valve cover and exactly as you describe. Got the engine running again quickly ... BUT it now blows oil smoke from the exhaust for about a minute after starting each week when I mow. Smoke ceases and I can mow just fine. Do you think a valve is not seating properly now ... after lots of cranking and experimenting while the valve was way out of adjustment?

I have a 14.5 HP B&S I/C OHV engine that stalls out after mowing with it for about 45 minutes. After it cools down for a couple hours, will start and run fine again for another 45 minutes. I have replaced every component I can think of: New magneto coil, new park plug, new carburetor, new gas cap, new fuel filter, new fuel lines, new air filter, no grass clogged in the cooling fins. Do you have an idea what could be the issue? Thanks.

My problems stated with the fuel. Make sure you put fuel additive in to compensate for the 10 % alcohol in the gas. It really raises hell with the valves. They can stick open and your engine will not start. Use high octane gas. All I had to do was remove the valve cover tap the valve spring reinstall the cover and change the gas . Problem was fix, and has not returned.

great job nd keep making them for there are a lot of doityourself out there now that our biyng power has gone down .

I have a Troy-Bilt mod#13J609G766 with an Intek 18.5 HP OHV. I'm getting alot of oil out of the exhaust and alot of thick, white, puffy smoke. I read that it could be the Valve Gaskets or it might need new piston rings. I can't find an instruction manual that tells me the parts I need and how to perform these tasks. Do you have any videos where you perform these tasks? Do you know of any really good instruction manuals? Thank you

Dony I my neighbor has a tractor with same symptom but ihave try what you show in this video adjust the valves at 4 thou check the starter and spin with out the plug What Im Doing wrong thank you for your help Sr

I have a troy bilt power washer with a B&S engine that won't start. When I pull the valve cover and pull the start cord neither valve moves. Any ideas? Carb, spark and coil have all been changed. Thanks

I have a question. I have a briggs and stratton 15.5 ohv motor. I believe the one you were using to set the valves on was the same engine. Do you normally use 5 thousands as a normal gap on the valves? I recently redid mine after I did a head gasket replacement and I set mine on 6 and 8 thousands from another video I saw. When I turn it over It hesitates just a tad before it starts. You can faintly hear the rocker arms ticking when the engine is running. Where would I find information on where the gap should be set at? Keep up the good work on your videos. Thanks.

im working on this same exact mower and i need to know the best way to find top dead center before we do the valve adjustment. the one im working with wont turn over because of too much compression. we found it will turn over with the spark plug out so i think it just needs a valve adjustment.

My air filter tube is bad would that be an issue for it not turning over. My mower seems to be doing the same thing.

Hi Jeremy. I have a problem with a Briggs 18.8 v-twin. After about an hour running it starts to stall out. The plate for the low ideal seems to slip back like the the engine is not at full,but it is. I have replaced both coils, adjusted the valves to spec. I changed the oil and plugs and all filters at the beginning of the season, about June. I have a gas cap with the built in gauge in it and have not replaced that yet. Any help will go a long way to prevent me from blowing it up.I'm at my wit's end on this.I would have emailed, but don't really know how.

Hi just a quick question, I have replaced my rocker cover gasket 4 times now, the last 2 fitting a original b/s gasket. But no matter what I seem to do even with rtv gasket sealant as well it still leaks after 5/10 mins use,always at the bottom of the cover ??? please any advice would be grateful,Dean

Great Video Sir

Thanks for great video.. I have a Craftsman lt1000 LAWN TRACTOR with Briggs Intek 18 HP OHV engine. For a couple of seasons now it has been intermittently failing after warm up. It will cold start great then run at high or low rpm perfectly for an hour or so. Then when I idle down to empty bagger it sputters. Then it eventually dies right in the middle of normal mowing. Sometimes if I let it sit for a couple hours it will fire up and run fine for awhile. I've replaced the gas cap and the battery. When it is running at operating rpm the ammeter shows nothing and the voltage to the battery is only 12.6 which is probably the battery voltage. What do you think is the pro blem? Bad diode in charging circuit? Or some other fuel delivery issue.

My fly wheel will spin one full rotation then come to a HARD DEAD stop and wont crank over. I adjusted the Valves and resatrted it started up perfect on the first try, then the next day I go to start it, I get the same issue.turn key and flywheel turns till it gets to a sertain spot and Stops!! is it still the Valves?

What is the valve adjustment on a 17.5 horsepower Briggs and Stratton gas motor

I have a Briggs platinum 21 only the exhaust valve moves the intake rod does not move at all?

Writing for my husband Ron ," earlier you shared how to adjust my valves, now I have another problem. It will not start and when I put my finger in the part where the spark plug goes there is not compression" It has a compression release valve, that might be the problem, How do I get to it???. thank you so much!

Thank you man, have the same problem with the Pony rider

I just replaced the head gasket on my riding lawn mower. I put it back on and am now having a similar issue. One of the rocker arms is kind of tight and the other somewhat loose but not as much as in your video. Is it definitely this definitely the issue?

Jeremy, thank you for you troubles. Have a B&R 19.5 that I purchased from a gentleman and it had a surge , when I was running it I ingauged the blades and it started smoking a Grey/ blue smoke and shut off. Now it will not turn over the full turn. What do I do .

I have a Briggs and stratton engine and won't crank because of compression, I have set the valves to .005 on both valves at 1/4 past TDC, but it still wont crank with spark plug in, any ideas

hi there , please could you give me some advise on a B&S engine, its a B&S I/C series 15.5hp 500cc, fitted to a Mountfield 4155H mower the mower does start and runs smooth ISH on tickover but keeps backfiring and if you turn the throttle up it just cuts out, ive replaced the spark plug removed and cleaned the carb and bowl, ive tried bypassing the fuel filter ive checked all the cabling there doesn't appear to be any loose cables, I removed the cowling from the top of the engine and all around the flywheel magnet was very rusty ive cleaned this all up with a wire brush and also removed and cleaned the face of the coil pack but non of this has made a difference. Any advice would be appreciated. Many Thanks

My valve cover is leaking oil pretty heavy. Going to change it, but do I have to drain oil before changing?

I see you didn't use a torque wrench to put the valve rockers back on. Is that even necessary? I replaced the gear on the starter and rebuilt the carb. The starter engages and the flywheel spins smoothly- it sounds great but maybe too good? It is very smooth and no clanging. It turns over but never catches. After several attempts to start I checked and gas is going to the carb but the bottom out gas line stays dry inside. It is possible I pulled a wire loose under the dash- there are 2 black wires twisted together just hanging but the headlights up front are disconnected anyway. since the starter is getting juice could there be any other electrical reasons for not starting or just the valves? I did get it to start one time last week but crossed poles at the solenoid to start and when I tried to tilt the seat back down it wanted to stall. When I raised the seat back up, it kept running. The seat has 2 yellow wites attached to keep it from driving when not seated. After I shut it off, I have not gotten it to start again. Help!!

question i replaced a valve rod like the one u pulled out i put everything back crank it over and booooom made a loud noise then i took spark plug out and smoke came out i pulled valve cover back off and everything looks fine i turned engine with my hand and its fine what could have happend

I have a Briggs on my Ariens tractor 21 horse. If you remove the valve cover and rotate manually one of the Rockers don't move at all

I have a Craftsman tiller with a 7 hp Briggs & Stratton engine. There is too much compression to start with the pull rope. I am thinking it is the valve clearance, but I can't find what they are set on. Am I on the right track? If so what are the settings?

I have a Briggs & Stratton OHV 17.5hp riding mower & cannot find the oil filter on it. Can you tell me where this would be located please?

Koehler command 17.5 is starts to miss a high throttle and is almost impossible to start. Is this a symptom of the cam loose. Gap is correct on plug.. Thanks

thank you so much for this video this is what mine is doing and now it runs great

Hey,I have a Kohler 23hp V-twin mower.I am having a problem with the valves. The engine will run but it is causing overheating and destroying the valve cover. I have gone through 3 covers now. We think the exhaust valve is refusing to close. Truthfully, we aren't sure what to do at all.Any idea? Thank you sir.

I have a 2012 zero turn with a 25hp vtwin it runs ok but does not have a lot of power.when you engage the blades the motor will almost die then will get some speed but when you cut into any grass even shorter grass it will bog down very slow...what could be the issue

hey jerermy ,i have same engine and same mower. i have a knocking, that is coming from the exhaust, so where do i start and what do i need to check, the motor runs but sounds like a popping sound, not throwing any oil. so please help,thanks

I am having an issue with gasoline filling the valve cover, I've got gas in the oil as well. I did have a problem with loose rockers because the stud backed out. Discovered that and tightened it back down. Ran fine for three mows, went to start it today and it wouldn't turn over. Suspecting the rocker issue again, I removed the valve cover and gas poured out. Valve guide seals,maybe?