Valve guide repair on Briggs and Stratton Motor  

YOU CAN TAKE ONE OF YOUR SPARK PLUGS CHOP OFF THE METAL THREADED PART OFF OF IT DRILL OUT THE CENTER TO REMOVE ALL PORCELAN AND ELECTRODE MATERIAL THEN BRAZE A 1/4" MALE NPT FITTING ONTO IT. Then take this new device you just made and screw it into your cylinder head. Then hook your air hose to it . (100 PSI RECOMENDED ) and your valves cannot drop while you're doing your procedure. I used to use this to procedure to replace valve stem seals on automotive engines when they were still in the vehicle

@@duckflynn3849 or you can simply pack the cylinder with rope.

You can also just feed some rope or paracord in to fill the cylinder to keep the valve from being able to push in. Easier if the cylinder is positioned vertically, but could still be done.

if you have a compression tester just screw in the hose in the spark plug hole and hook up your air hose to the tester hose

The engine being dirty speeds it up just like not charging oil Heat really is the problem and engine cover in dirt and grass plus mice nest 😊

Tarel did that video but I just tack with welder thru port

@@philliphall5198 That's Taryl ! Taryl Dactal :-0) Now, there's your dinner !

It's called common sense. 😮

Great tip!

Great tip. Thanks

I would do any pings before inserting the guide (unless you are going to ping so hard that you would collapse the wall around the guide).

Hi, I was wondering if you could help me with the sizes you used for your tap, die and helicoil?

@@Art-ji2hx I used drill bit size 17/64 (.266) and HeliCoil # 5521-4 which is 1/4-20 (1/4 width 20 threads per inch)

​@@Art-ji2hx Today I fixed a slipped exhaust valve guide on a Briggs v-twin (model 445667) I removed the valve then poistioned the valve guide where I wanted it (just a tiny bit sticking into the exhaust chamber) then drilled a 1/8" hole through about the center of where the guide sits the head until the bit went through the guide (just one side not all the way through) then removed the guide, tapped the hole with 6-32 tap then position the valve guide back into the head aligning the holes (in the head and the valve guide) then put a nut on a 6-32 x 3/8" machine screw (both stainless though any type of metal would do). Slide the valve into the valve guide (you should be able to lookinto the hole and see it passes through) and then screw the bolt into the tapped hole but not deep enough to touch the valve stem. Then tighen down the 6-32 nut (snug, not too tight). Finished! Ready to re-assemble. Will do that tomorrow.

Added one more thing - put a hose clamp around the outside housing where that valve goes through the head and had it on top of the bolt/net that is screwed in - just to double assure it will stay in place. Put it all back together today and mowed about 2 hours with no problems. NEXT!

I don't think it's a thru hole. I think it's a counter bore. in other words I think the bushing bottoms out.

​@BecksArmory mine doesn't bottom out like you thought. Wish it did.

How did you make out with the guide pushing back flush to the housing? Mine just did the same thing and I really don't want to pull the head and mess up all my gaskets if it's not going to be an issue. It seems like my valve is able to spring back closed out towards the rocker arm all the way. So I'm assuming the guide isn't "pushed in" far enough to where it's obstructing the valve on the inside of the head. Just wondering how yours worked out or if you ended up taking the head off to look?

Thanks for sharing

my Simplicity dealer said that there was a stretch of time were the valve stems would work there way out when the motor go too hot. He said he has not seen it happen to any of the new heads he has put on. I also try to keep a better eye on the grass build up inside the blower area now.

Did your repair last?

It held up the rest of the summer than I took it into the dealer and they put a new head on it for me.

good idea

possibly. This fix got me to the end of the summer. I than was able to get a whole new head.

Yes

No

@@toddpeters9007 the high temperature Loctite would definitely work

​@@user-mc9zb9hw4d thats what I'm doing. Green locktite. #638 . For cylindrical applications. Clean with carb cleaner first. I peened mine, but it only tasted 4 mowings.

Only seal on intake. None on exhaust guide.

They are available but new part numbers... 799088 is now 84001918 and 799089 is now 84001919... pricey new so if you're trying to save some money with used, I recommend at least buying new valve guide seals as used heads waiting to sell will probably have dried out and hard seals and it will smoke.Valve guide seal part number 690968 which also supercedes a bunch of older part numbers. Hope that helps.

Watch out buying used ones, they just press it back and call it a good head😊

Green is even better :-0)

​@@2Truth4Liberty. Green #638 is for these cylindrical applications. Trying it now. New heads too pricy!

Yes this is my personal machine and this fix allowed me to finish the summer. Over the winter I took it back to the dealer who put a new head and push rods in.

yeah, I agree. I work in an Engineering office (day job) and there are a massive amount of new Engineers without a lot of comin sense these days. Nobody wants to pay for experience anymore. I think they are going for maximum air flow but disregard the existence of debris. Debris is a pretty major factor...

@@BecksArmory And a lot of engineers that can't spell common. Lolol

Totally agree, the music destroys the the whole video.