We have to work on a duramax today unfortunantly but its for @_sammy6.6_ so its all good, This thing is under-performing pretty bad and the race valve definitely helped holding rail.
Thanks for the info man, I'm glad it helped! Makes me wish I would have swapped this out on my LB7 when I was changing my turbo horn or when I changed my FPR. All is not lost, it will be a future video on my channel :) Thanks again!
Do those 24x14s rub at all I’m running 22x12 with 2in spacers and and I can’t even go more then half way. My tortion keys are cranked to the max and I trimmed the front bumper a little bit too.
I did pull the compressor which is pretty easy and makes getting to the bottom bolt with an extension and swivel pretty easy. One thing to note is the port the banjo bolt is in has three lines coming out of it and is up against the prv. It is pretty solid and does not move much so how do you unscrew the valve with out disconnecting the lines? When I unthread mine it goes until the line that goes toward the fire wall hits the intake tube behind it and the valve at that point is still threaded in and is not loose.
I know this is necro'ing a super old post.. but what did you end up doing to get this out? lol. I'm pretty much stuck at the same spot and I havent quite come up with a way to resolve it that I'm fine with full sending. Edit; for anyone in the future viewing this. He actually mentions in the middle that you can use a screwdriver to pry it apart. That will give you enough freedom for the valve to come out.
? Isn't that the fuel pressure relief valve? And then on the back of the rail there's the race valve I'm pretty sure there's two different valves. Right?
Did you ever go back and see what the rail pressure was? Just curious to see what it is after the install. I'm wanting to the valve to my lb7 but i would like to know rail pressure before I order it. Last week I had my edge juice w/attitude on level 3 and the truck threw a code for limp mode but i didn't feel like it went go in to limp mode cause It would still shift threw the gears so I kinda knew it was the fpr valve not holding enough pressure threw shifts
Idk how i stumbled across this just random youtube scrolling but i have had one if these plugs rollibg aroubd in ny glovebox for a year i finally blew a head gasket from beating on the poor truck anyways i avoided putting it in because im always too busy working on every. One elses shit but while i was in there putting the new fleece cupless heads and ARP studs on i went ahead and popped it in as far as the power if its tuned and you feel like its slow there is something wrong because a tuned duramax will smoke a tuned cummins all day
I’ve been trying to figure out why my tuned lb7 isn’t as fast as it should be and my tuner said it isn’t rolling as much coal as it should. Maybe this fuel race valve will help?
I wish I had an experienced answer for you on this. I'm not a dmax guy at all and am not 100% on there "if" "then" situations. Id highly recommend giving a duramax specialty shop a call such as Wagler, Dirty Hooker Diesel, Calibrated power, even Exergy Performance would know a lot about your question since they do duramax injectors.
@@GavinHuke oh ok 👍, after I Installed this plug on my truck, I started having fuel in oil, and fuel leaking, hope I didn’t damage my injectors or just a bad return seal.
@@bradjohnson6783 yes its safe but not needed. Your holding rail pressure just fine, this truck is not and was needing this to hold rail pressure to make the power it should be making
So basically your showing us the worst possible way to video an install and removal then your talking shit on duramax and saying they don’t even compare to anything you’ve owned. Ooookayyyy buddy
