Lead-pouring disaster (Rebuilding Tally Ho EP101) 

Recast! One stronger single keel, no cracks, voids or seperations.

Blacksmith here. While casting is not my specialty, I do my share of casting. You really need to recast it. Casting on top of existing lead creates a high risk of delamination. Since this is a ballast system, the 2 leads will also have different weights/masses. So if you need to know those numbers for balance calculations, you need a uniform product.

My opinion: Chop up and recast. You haven’t compromised on anything so far. Don’t start with this.

Recast it. Preserving the keel's "original" state will be cold comfort if it falls off in the middle of the sea.

Cast a new one Leo you've come this far why worry for evermore about the cracks in the keel

head says - build a new one, heart says - patch up the old one. Heads wins. The ads outweigh the cons imo.

When we poured the keel of our boat in led, we proceded like this : First we made a mould of the keel in wood, slightly bigger because of the shrinking of the lead. Then we doug a hole in the ground, about 5 inches bigger all around the keel. We secured the sides of the hole with chicken wire and cement and let it dry. Then we poured gypsum on the bottom and made it level. We put our wooden mould now inside inside and poured gypsum all around. Once dry, we pulled our mold out and filled out all the little spots, holes with gypsum, too. In the hole we installed the stainless steel bolts, that hold the keel and we were ready to put the molten lead, about three tons in. It took a couple of days to cool down, but the keel came out perfect, with a crane we pulled it out of the hole in the ground, using the steel bolts as a holding point.

Port Townsend has a large community of folks who are “more traditional than thou”. It’s more important that it’s a solid cast, than that it’s “original”. Don’t pay attention to what those folks say. You’ve done an amazing lifetime achievement with Tally Ho.

While using the original keel is attractive to Tally Ho’s history, the structural integrity remains an issue. Recasting the entire keel, with Tally Ho’s lead makes more sense.

Forget "peace of mind." Forget "authenticity." As the restorer and eventual captain of Tally Ho, your first duty is the seaworthiness of the vessel. It would be cold comfort to the families of someone lost to a sunken Tally Ho that their loved one perished aboard an authentic vessel. Re-cast the keel. You owe that level of caution and professionalism to this boat's passengers and those of every other vessel around her.

It's the original lead keel, just molded into a better shape. Just recast it in the shape you need.

First of all: You are amazing shipbuilders; engaged, enthusiastic, talented and cooperative. The best „ingredients“ for success. Second: This was not a disaster; much more a wake up call. Lead, as all metals are quite complicated to handle and work with. Too many factors can influence the outcome. Metallurgists would probably recommend to reuse all the lead, the one from the original keel too and cast a new one, - away from the ship’s hull. A solid bloc can and would do the best work as a secure counter-weight. It avoids nightmares. KEEP IN MIND: THIS SHIP IS DESTINED TO GO INTO ROUGH SEAS. Coraggio! Paolo, Italy

The integrity of Tally Ho will come from the next 100 years of her sailing around the world, not trying to salvage parts of her that may force her out of water to be fixed yet again. I say recast it so she can get back to where she belongs, wind in her sails.

I’d vote for recasting the whole keel. It’s still the original material, so you’d retain some history, but you’d have peace of mind.

spraying that water around the lead was SUPER DANGEROUS

Leo, give yourself the permission to re-cast the entire ballast keel. It is damaged in enough areas and ways that it makes sense. Also, re-casting will fit the spirit of everything else you've done to the boat up to this point. You have made decisions up to now in the interest of making that boat as durable and long lasting as it can be. It makes no sense to then bolt on a cracked, two piece and patched ballast keel. This boat DESERVES her lead re-cast.

Don’t spoil the ship for a ha’p’orth of tar...recast the keel.

Re-cast the keel Leo, the rest of this boat has been built to the highest standards of craftsmanship and getting this far has been a monumental achievement, it will always be on your mind because you wont be happy with a 'hotch potch' keel. Good luck next cast to you all.

Experience is something you get right after you need it.

Yay Leo, You’ve had enough advice, I only have encouragement. 100 episodes later I feel you have taught me much more than boat construction. Carry on!

It's still the original keel. Your just rearranging the molecules 😃

If it were me, if I didn’t recast the keel, it would always be there in my mind that I could have done it better and a slight worry that a good bump could comprise it. You only get one chance to do this. Good luck. Love the project

A few things that would help: 1) less positive head pressure- shorten the legs on the pig 2) use a "T" fitting with two pipes, one going fore and one going aft, with holes drilled in the bottom every two feet or so to dispense lead, with the ends capped 3) use small peaked diverters made of steel sheet underneath the outlets, to convert downward momentum into lateral momentum. They will help get the lead to the ends of the mold before solidifying and ensure that molten lead isn't jetting straight downward. 4) make a bed of sand underneath the keel block, put fire cloth on top, and then lower the keel block onto it, so that it settles into it and makes a "mold" of itself. Then, any leaking lead will have nowhere to go, and will just pool at the bottom of the keel ballast where it's resting against the cloth and do nothing but add a thin layer of fresh lead AROUND the original block, encapsulating it (this method would also help normalize any internal stresses in the ballast, and keep it from cooling too fast and forming cracks)

I love when someone explains something so well that the entire comments section is in agreement.

Leo, Don't get too hung-up on using the original ballast keel. Recasting it is the right thing to do.

This whole journey has been honoring the legacy of the boat. Recasting doesn't change that. And seems like it's best for the longevity of the boat. EDIT: Forgive my mistake in referring to Tally Ho as a boat instead of a ship

Although historic precedence is valuable, the safety and quality of the craftsmanship is invaluable for the future life of the boat

Given the choice between originality and safety and ability to sleep at night, always always go with safety and a good night’s sleep. Recast it. Also consider adding a little antimony (from recycled battery plates) to increase the strength of the lead. The Lead/Antimony alloy will make it stronger, without adversely affecting its density.

Recast the keel, makes some worries now but saves a lot in the future. You already changed so much material and already recasted parts that the original keel is not worth it. It would be altered anyway by casting on top. And yeah, it would be most of the original lead....

I think the guy that polished all those bronze floors in the bilges, despite the fact they would never see the light of day again, knows what he really wants to do with the keel.

Probably too late by now but I would like to recant a tale told to me by a man who was an apprentice back at the time when Tally Ho was built. He did not work in a boat yard but a forge. Drunks in the work place were common, very common . Mains water at that time very limited and folk drank tea or beer as the water available often not safe to drink. The men that worked in hot places usually drank beer by the gallon to keep themselves hydrated, so accidents and mistakes were a regular event. What has this got to do with Tally Ho's Keel well if you have deliberately or accidentally miscalculated the amount of lead for a keel and you look like you are going to be short what do you do? you shove hanks of white coal into the molten lead to raise the final level in the mold. The Oak burns away even without air leaving nothing but a void and a desert spoon of ash. The repair to the top of your keel tells the story, the foundry worker being short on lead and white coal probably stuffed in a piece of air dried oak the gasses given of would have corrupted the surface which he would have beaten with a hammer, reheated with a torch and poured a small amount of molten lead on top of, then dressed with wet news paper whilst still molten giving that flat patched look. I would like to point out that you never get large voids appearing in cast lead naturally by shrinkage or mispouring , leads density just wont allow it they have to be cast in. So how many voids does Tally's keel have?

I cannot wait for a full recast video, and please feel free to make it an hour long

A couple of weeks to re-cast now is a small price to pay for several decades of peace of mind under sail. I’m sure Albert would concur; besides the original keel was not the best casting.

Speaking as someone who has been down this very route with my previous boat, I can say that, in my experience, adding the extra lead to the original keel doesn't really work that well. No matter what you do, the original keel deforms from the heat differential top to bottom (mine was 8" deep) and the new lead doesn't bond well to the old as you have already identified. Recasting is the better option since you have already identified problems with the original keel and especially in light of your original decision to remake the centreline timbers for pretty much the same reason, that of peace of mind in the future. However, it is essential that you recast in one continuous pour, so your pig just isn't going to be big enough to hold the tonnage of lead. Nor is your wooden form going to be strong enough, the heat from the lead softens the wood (like steaming timbers) and your shape comes out all wrong under the pressure of the weight of lead. For our second attempt we dug a pit, put several inches of dry sand at the bottom, placed the wooden form into the pit on top of the sand and then rammed sand around the sides the pit (like the bronze casting) to reinforce the sides. Our spigot had a Tee outlet so that the lead spewed out in opposite directions and not straight down (your problem) but splash back from this was an issue. However, our keel was only 3 tons. We did, however, forget that we needed to lift the new keel out of the pit and had to dig several trenches under the keel to allow strops to be passed under it for the crane to lift it. This worked except that we didn't use enough strops to support the keel and it bent as it was lifted and we had a difficult job to bend it straight again. Other sailors I know used a concrete trough to prevent the wood form deforming and placed this trough (with the wooden former inside) on a number of breeze blocks so that the keel did not need to be lifted. However, getting the concrete off again was a pain. Don't try to construct a form out of steel, it buckles under the heat of the lead. I saw this happen at the lead casting foundry in Malta years ago. I look forward to your finding a good solution to this. Good luck.

You know, for a disaster, this went pretty well...

Hi Leo, It seems, when you look at the amount of work that you have done to restore the boat, that recasting the original keel lead into a new form which would perfectly fit the keel of the boat in its restored form without any flaws in the metal would be true to the spirit of what you have been working towards as an end goal: Restore Tally Ho! to its original form as closely as possible to the original boat. Note that you were already changing the keel configuration and weight so this approach seems all the more appropriate. Good luck the rest of the way. We're looking forward to seeing Tally Ho! underway.

Recasting the whole thing feels like the better and safer option now.

I’m a builder in Sydney Leo. I’ve realised the only cost of safety is time. Think strategic safety of all those who will sail with Tally Ho over the next 100 years and you’ll arrive at the only decision option you know you have to take.

Leo Some (most?) of the lead ingots (ballast) you removed from inside the boat will have originally been intended as moveable ballast. The ballast was deliberately intended to be moveable so that the owner of "Tally Ho" could adjust her fore and aft trim to optimise her sailing abilities. Moving a 300 kg of lead ingots about is much easier than moving many 10s of cubic metres of stores to achieve the same outcome. Using the "spare" lead to add mass to the keel presupposes that your rebuilt "Tally Ho" is already at optimal trim. However, the optimal trim for "Tally Ho" will be a moveable feast that depends on the sea state and wind direction and what is loaded into the hull. Ian Neuhaus

Seriously just re-cast the thing. literally no one is going to care if it is re-cast versus it being the original, it's just going to be in the water anyways. Functionality over aesthetics

When I was around 10 years old , My Dad and Uncle where melting lead in a cast iron bath tub for my uncles yacht keel. Had a problem when the jack holding the plug let go and all the lead flowed down the Lawn like a river. I am pretty sure that was the first time I heard the f word All they could do was have a beer let it cool down and start again the following week end. I am 65 so it was around 55 years ago, My Uncle still owns and sails the 35 ft yacht he built in his back yard.

I think this might be a blessing in disguise, Leo. It wasn't meant to be. Recast the whole keel.

Have been following Acorn to Arabella from the beginning. I remember when they poured their Entire kill in a mold in the ground. This way you can get it just the way you want it. Its more work but in the long run it seems worth it. I admire your first attempt. It was well worth the effort and you learned a lot. So like other posts have stated. Start from scratch and Re-Cast the whole thing. Which ever way you decide to go. I know you will get it worked out.

WOW! Over the past two weeks I've binge-watched every episode from start to present. The work, the skill, the craftsmanship, dedication - all the character and personalities put into it - this is amazing! ...best of all, and FINALLY, one can see "It's a boat!" CONGRATULATIONS on all your work and accomplishments to date! It's a masterpiece... and we ALL look forward to your continuing story and your continuing success. "THANK YOU!" for the GREAT learning experience!

Recast it. It is the safest, best quality and the right thing to do.

I say: Tally-Ho has a new life ahead of her, the fact that her old keel has been melted into her new keel is irrelevant, she is still Tally-Ho but rebuilt by you and your team, with the soul of the thousands of us watching. Her new life should be the best she can have and a fractured, weakened keel doesn’t fit that. Ergo: re-pour. That’s my $7 worth of opinion.

I say recast the whole Keel, start over and do it the right way. way more work but the end result will be perfection!

Watching your commentary, and explanations in front of the boat. I cannot stop admiring how tight your woodwork is. Those scallops near the prop shaft are incredibly symmetrical, even, and smooth. The coating, mixed with the perfect gapping between planks looks simply amazing. Your craftsmanship is incredible. Aside from that, I really do appreciate your detailed on camera explanations.

RE-CAST THE WHOLE THING THE HULL DESERVES IT

If the "pig" still has quite a bit of lead in it then you need to be careful reheating. During solidification it will have taken 'feed' metal and could be very snug in the barrel. During heating it will expand of course but worse if it melts under the surface, i.e. from the bottom where you're heating it, then that liquid will expand significantly and you'll have molten lead under very high pressure until eventually the top layer bung gives way. If you have a shallow lead slug and the top can move then you're OK but if the lead is at the vertical faces then you're in real trouble. I worked in a foundry. Heating even partially full pots is a no-no.

Good to know that all was safe and no one hurt. Take care, hope you will find resources to recast it all together. Best wishes to the team

This is my kind of disaster. You planed for emergencies, you worked the plan, and the plan worked.

While not “put to a vote”, I cast mine on the side of a complete recast. We know you’re a stickler for quality of craftsmanship, and the assurance of integrity with a “new”, truly monolithic ballast keel speaks for itself. I’m certain that this is the decision you’ve already arrived at. The fact that it’s mostly original lead IS good enough.

The consensus seems to be, "Recast the damn thing and let's get another great video out of it!" Love watching you and your team work out the problems

Nothing new to be said here...recast the entire keel...the "disaster" was really a lifesaver as this approach would have compromised the old keel. I think you will find that recasting the entire unit will go faster than you think with a much better structural end result.

Leo, I have no idea what the best approach is to solving the keel challenge but I can tell you that I’d love to watch you design and pour a keel! Best of luck sir.

Leo, you've always struck me as a guy who when considering all the variables, goes with the strongest, safest, and most durable decision. I know you'll do the right thing and end up recasting the entire keel into a homogenous piece. You've never been scared of prep work to get it RIGHT.

Recasting seems to be the most sensible option, especially when considering the longevity of the boat - even the purists couldn't argue that it isn't the same material and you don't want to be regretting it further down the line. Digging a pit to put the form in also makes sense as the lead will have nowhere to go should the mold fail. Really interesting episode, as always!

Well managed Leo and team. At least Pancho wasn't hurt -- phew! A quick read below suggests re-cast. Thank you for sharing, and being so open to comments -- that's what makes your project so special, and so amazing.

All your safety procedures worked out, hats off!

RECAST No point going forward with cracks, unbonded material, and voids.

Leo, I’ve added lead to a keel in the past. In retrospect, I should have cast a new one. The interface of the old and new lead did not meld interstitially. This leads to inherent weakness. I would recast. Future Leo will thank you…using original lead (as previous posters have suggested) lends authenticity.

You could do a layered inset cast basically you make adapt holes (circular dovetails) on the original particularly in the weak sections. When poring have a slower output of Liquid lead. If possible use 2+ spouts. Overall the adapt holds will help bond the old keel to the new addition. Pouring slowly will help mitigate the erosion. And lastly adding at least one more pipe will help distribute the lead more efficiently and to almost completely avoid any holes or voids being formed. Sorry I know that was a little scattered but I use to work at a foundry doing rehabs on bells and old iron work. Those are just some of the small tips I learned along the way. I hope that helps

Leo is sharp as a tack. He knows what he want's to do. But he still seeks answers that are beyond the scope of his knowledge and these answers are one in millions or less

Sound mechanical components beats nostalgia every single time.

Peace of mind needs a recast keel. Safety of the crew, especially trainees needs a recast keel. Don't spoil the ship for a ha'poth of tar. Imagine the casualties when Tally Ho rolls over when the keel fails. Not only that but Tally Ho's future will be very public. You cannot know the true condition of the lead keel. The significant flaws that you found are sufficient indication of the probability of more subsurface flaws. You cannot know the standards of workmanship with the original casting. You cannot know the damage caused when Tally Ho floundered that time, but you know the keel was damaged. I am a UK Chartered, and European engineer with a degree in mechanical engineering and a life time in heavy maintenance and reliability engineering in the oil industry. You have done everything else to the highest standard, why compromise that. When one does a residual risk analysis, bolting a suspect keel to any boat is essentially an avoidable risk. As a patreon I would be happy to chip in towards the cost of a recast. I am sure others would too. PS in my experience, sometimes a failure such as you experienced, is a good omen.

Talented and humble...you'll figure it out. Cheers!

You and your crew are doing a fantastic job, the workmanship is outstanding well organised and thoroughly thought through. The lead pouring could have done with a tee piece on the outer end so lead was running length ways to the boat. Really enjoying the channel as I've also been a shipwright wood worker craftsmanship.

Don't take the risk with some half-assed hodge podge of a fix, just re-cast it properly.

Hi, As a German civil engineer, I can only say that you must recast. Continuing from this point carries the risk that the two materials will not bond. In addition, to avoid a strong cooling of the lead towards the edges, you should provide several feed points. Since I know neither the length nor the outside temperature or the planned pouring temperature, I can only assume on the basis of the "optical" length that you need at least 3, but better 4 feed points for the liquid lead. For this, please get ideas from the bell casting, because here, too, several feed points are served from a melting furnace. In particular, the switching off or switching to other casting channels is a centuries-old and proven tradition in this branch of the trade and has been absolutely tried and tested. I wish you much success with your project and please excuse my bad English.

Pretty cool video. I seen it in my suggestions, and thought, I'm not a boat guy, but hmm lead pouring and disaster, good title to peak interest! I like how the video was put together, telling the story, even the aftermath! I think we're all grateful for all of the safety measures put in place, and might I say, well done for that! While looking at it, it seemed like an sure thing. Then seeing the pour-out I immediately thought about the blast of the faucet like pour and suspected that soon as I seen the lead pouring on the fire blankets. Not that I knew anything like that would happen, but then it all made sense and I'm sure like you all, it was then, it was sorted out! :P Never really know the breaking point until you do the job, and just find it! Again though, kudos on putting all the safety points into place! You got a great crew it seems, and great ideas. Now everyone is a little wiser, and with the safety, they are probably equally grateful as well.

You gotta recast the whole thing. If something happens structurally, you would never let yourself live it down. Anything worth doing is worth doing right, right?

There is only one correct way, particularly as the existing keel has defects and may have further unidentified internal damage. Cut it up and have a professional foundry recast it in a new mould. It also provides the opportunity to use current design technology to maximize the actual shape and disposition of the ballast, possibly making it all external.

You said it yourself Leo; “peace of mind” for Tally Ho’s future owners. Albert Strange already has a massive smile on his face as he looks down on you guys and the work you have accomplished. Remember Leo, “There are no shortcuts in the quest for perfection”. Press on with pride.

Excellent video. You all took it well. Safety first. Good luck with whatever decision you cone to

If you decide to patch the keel with another pour, you could change the pipe so that instead of ending in a 90 degree fitting pointing down, put in a "T" fitting with additional piping to send the lead horizontally in each direction. This would stop the downward jetting and help the overall flow as the lead would exit the pipe ends closer to each end of the form. Just an idea. Keep at it!

Reading down through the comments, it's pretty clear the vote is to cast a whole keel. I'd add to that one thing. Port Townsend has a foundry you have used and seemed quite happy with. The bronze sure turned out beautiful. Take your measurements and lead into town and have it done completely professionally. They have the kilns to melt the quantity and quality you want in one go.

You’ve done so much of this boat in the “right way”. I think you need to recast the whole thing.

The lead keel is a consumable replaceable part like oblative paint or a sacrificial anode plate. It is meant to be used up and repaired and replaced as needed to keep the ship in, forgive me, ‘’ship shape.’’ But I am just a random intrawebz guy with no skin invested in your boat. You have skin, meat, and bone invested, without a doubt. Whatever decision you make, it will be the correct one because it is obvious that you love this boat deeply. Your decision will be the right one, no matter what you choose. Just continue to do your very best and you will be proud of the boat for the rest of your life!! (My hardest times, the ones in the military, where I didn’t think I’d make it; the times that I was in the most pain and it took way more intestinal fortitude, more ‘’guts,” than I thought I had; now that I’m older, are my dearest and best memories, even though they are pretty awful too, because I found I didn’t give up, I found out I had honor deep inside.) You’ll do fine. Whatever decision you make is correct if you do your best and hold nothing back! You’ll find you have honor inside you.

I think it's a blessing in disguise...? Recast! 😁👍 You might consider adding some antimony? Gives it a little hardness and strength..?

Recast the whole keel, you want one solid homogeneous piece. You’ve gone the extra mile on the rest of this boat, don’t stop now. Only thing is your likely maybe under fire ban right now. Not not sure how you’ll get around that. Up here in BC we can’t ever think about causing any ignition sources right now.

Recasting the Keel seems the most sensible Choice at this Point.

From all the previous issues I have faith that you'll come up with the best way to deal with this. I'd personally recast the keel to improve the integrity of the final product, a fully sea worthy rebuild that will last another 100 years. It is still, after all is said and done, her keel. My opinion though is that of a land lubber, so I truly can't wait to see the next installment and the informed decision!

Speaking as someone who knows nothing about boatbuilding and lead casting, I would suggest recasting. Who knew casting lead would be so interesting! Good Luck! A marvelous project!

You've done so much work to make this boat "bullet proof" So far the ballast keel seems to be the only suspect part of the boat. Re-cast the thing and keep her bullet proof. Good luck man.

As an engineer, there is only one option id take and thats recast it. peace of mind is everything both in the risk involved in working with fire and hot metal near the boat and also at sea knowing the ballast hasnt got the structural integrity it should. I think now is not the time to spoil the ship for a ha'pence worth of tar . Fantastic project Leo .i follow it enthusiastically :)

I'm actually impressed this almost worked. The new keel episode seemed so much more difficult than it needed to be

I don't know much about boat building, but I feel like the last thing you'd want to keep historically accurate is the keel... No one is going to see it and it's integrity is important for the ships operation... The original boat builders would probably want you to recast it.

at that Point, I feel like trying to repair that keel ballast for the sake of it being original is a decision that will come back to bite you in the ass. you already changed most of the original wood of the boat for new safe and sound wood, I think you should treat that part the same way, rebuild it from scratch to have a boat that will survive for another 100 years.

I would recast. I've never regretted doing extra work to do something right.

I haven't seen anyone mention this yet (but haven't read all the comments either). I believe you have to recast and create a homogenous mass of the original and "new" material. Because...... You don't know what material the original keel actually is except "lead". (Pure lead? Lead with 1% / 2% / 3% antimony?) You are adding modern "lead" - some is clearly scrap (I saw some diver belt weights going in the pot). And your modern lead - is an alloy of lead and ??other metal?? The two different metal mixes and an interface that clearly has a "line" for salt water to lie in. You are going to get mixed metal corrosion on that line. Now there may not be a lot of potential difference between the metals - but here will be SOME. And salt water is not as reactive as sulphuric acid. But that keel is going to be in the water for the long haul. You are definitely going to create a giant battery. And one of the metals (old or new - we don't know) is going to be giving up to the other. In the short term - paint is not going to stick. It will always be bubbling off the oxidizing metal surface. Longer term the metal that is "giving up" will start to crumble and fail - like a zinc anode on a steel hull. If it is the original keel - that might not be so bad - if it is the "new" layer on top that's going to be catastrophic. Probably always be tightening the keel bolts and wondering if it is the bolts pulling through the lead or the "layer" letting go and you are taking up the slack. And this might not happen immediately, or in the first 5 years or 10 years - but in the long term - it's going to happen. So I believe you have to recast to homogenise the lead alloy and give you a chance to skim off as many impurities as you can - because they make localized battery "cells" too. -- Other thoughts - go look at some of the Uffa Fox books from the 1930's. Keels were always cast in the ground to support the huge weight. And others have mentioned - DRY pattern sand. -- Someone else mentioned fastening garboards to lead keels. I believe it was fashionable around the 1910's in plank on edge racing boats - to save weight in the area of the wood keel. The smallest wood keel you could get away with, no deadwood and then the lead keel straight to the vestigial keel and garboards caulked and fastened directly to the lead. There is a reason there aren't many of those left!! For a period I used to have to worry about DUET (1912) - the gaff yawl now in the care of the Cirdan Trust. She was about as extreme as that - but still had a vestige of a wood keel to fasten the garboards to. Which is why we think she survived!

Leo - I think that was a very valiant attempt and you understand what went wrong - so it was a success! I vote for recasting for all the reasons you are familiar with. I think you need two pigs and arranged to work sited at the ends of the keel rather than the sides. So each pig would have a horizontal feed pipe (each half the length of the keel) with say half a dozen distribution valves fitted with deflector plates (or cones) to spread the pour. The valves should be fitted with valve operating extensions and it will give finer control of the flow into the mould. I would be tempted to build a steel mould (sides and a base) too.it could be set in the ground to enable thinner steel to be used and backfilled with sand to provide support.

Re-cast it. It's another part of Tally Ho's story - the fact that it's the same keel just re-cast with another few shipwrights' knowledge and skill in it is a great thing in my mind.

Recast the keel! It will be stronger and not a soul will ever see it

Nice to see how they did it . My Dad and his brothers built and sailed the last 40 ton 3 master out of Brewster ship yard New Brunswick Can.

Get in touch with Alix and Steve from Acorn to Arabella, they could help!

Recast. Everything else is going to be a big headache.

Recast. It’s still grandpa’s axe even when you replace the handle 12 times and the head 5. You can use the lead from the original and preserve the legacy without the problems. You’ve used new wood and brass without concern, recasting isn’t cheating in any way.

My vote is to recast! Holy shit the craftsmanship that went into this boat seems astonishing to a layman like myself. Blown away by this! Subbed!

Still the original lead in it?, that has to count for something, recast.