I used to spend days doing lead work like that when I was as Plumber, it’s all roofers etc now I guess, a real skill, and still enjoy seeing work I did years ago still looking great. 👍
I'm a roofer so I can do nice lead work but when it comes to aprons and back gutters and valley ends etc we depend on good lead welders like yourself to make our jobs . Amazing mate
It is a real pleasure to watch a real professional at work, gives Great joy. Not like that cowboy, mister slice and dice, and a tube of silicone cowboy.
Your excellent. My former trade was a panel beater, i changed to see how I'd do at roofing, got to do lead work, and I found I had a touch for it from shaping metal with a hammer and dolly, from my body work days. I used to braze very light metal with oxygen an acetylene tiny flame. So I'm going to practice lead welding. Great learning videos 👌
I am a carpenter in New Zealand tht has been throwen onto a lead flashing job as there is no one else tht can do it die to labour supply issues. Loving it and thinking of up skillng and do this full time. It is paying three times my current charge out rate. Great video, I learnt a hell of a lot.
Superb, working on my lead work but I'm making alot of mistakes but enjoy doing it never had a call back but I just stick to valleys, skews and aprons would like to get into lead burning hats of to the pros that do this
@@slbleadworks works a treat, get the blue and white ones from Screwfix, cheap as chips then just cut them with a wood saw. Simple to do and they act as setting sticks flip them over you got your mallet. Good luck and great vid.
Is the wood roll mitre cut set right on the front edge of the drip or is it supposed to sit back a bit? And is it always cut at 45 °? And how much material do you aim to have protruding the drip edge prior to bossing the wood roll ends. Before it’s trimmed. And then what size d’ya trim it back to, like 70 mm or something? If you had a standard timber deck do you have only a 25 mm of timber over the fascias to carry the lead sheet into the gutter or do you have more like 45-50 mm bringing you about halfway into the gutter? Would you have drip battens screwed to a finished deck or d’ya prefer the ply to be finished in one piece all the way into the gutter? And so avoiding seeing a line where the two timbers would join at the roof edge? I hope I’m clear with these questions. One more. I’d like to see you boss the rear internal corners. Bothe under and over. Or would u always burn the overcloak? It’s alot to dress over isn’t it?
Yes it’s very important that the front of the wood roll goes right to the front edge. It’s not set back at all. I Always cut mine to 45 degrees but you don’t have to. It can be steeper if you like. But not anymore shallow. And I generally aim to have 150mm of lead sailing past the front edge. This makes it easier to boss the roll ends. And then yes trimmed back to around 75 mm or 50 mm. I usually put a tile batten around to give me my drip edge. 25 mm is fine for going into the gutter. Well actually on the vid I’m currently working on all the backs of the rolls have been bossed. Although I would usually cut and burn them.
Panic lol😳😂. Well luckily I haven’t split once since my apprentice days. Hope I haven’t spoken too soon. It depends how bad and where the split is. But you can fill it in with weld and then smooth it off to hide the weld.
Hey Stuart nice work as always. Have you got any detail on how to cut/weld the other ends of the rolls against an upstand for example? I keep practicing bits but it's become and expensive hobby haha. Happy doing stuff flat but anything incline or vertical always ends up in a puddle 🤣
Hi Lee thank you glad your enjoying the vids. I haven’t got any vids on how to cut the back of the roll yet. But I can try and make one soon hopefully. Some advice I’d give with any vertical welding. Is to weld down from the top first with a welding rod. Then come back up from the bottom. It’s so much easier than just coming straight up from the bottom. Just make sure you’ve got a low flame.
@slb lead works Thanks ever so much for your advice. I'm OK with flashings and general roof stuff but anything welded we always had an old lead guy in sadly he's retired now. Always said its a dying trade with most just wanting grp or felt as cheap alternatives but I've always been fascinated and admired the traditional ways. I've done a few aprons and back gutters but have done them on the safety of a bench lol love doing it but don't want to be practicing new stuff on people's jobs. But keep up the great work and thanks again for taking the time to share the vids
Oh really. To he honest I’ve only started heating roll ends up in the last couple of years. It started on a big code 6 flat roof I was doing. Just made it so much easier.
@@tonyb7779 I love seeing all the old leadwork. Proper skills. I look at some things and think wow. My regret is that I never been shown how to boss a lead finial. Is that something you used to do ?.
When I was an apprentice back in 1960 - 65 we had at tech hard and soft metals and a teacher only for lead !!!! but he is doing it all wrong !!!!! no rubber hammer !!!!!! use only box wood tools !!!!!
Your stretching with a rubber mallet, not bossing. Your skil is ok but not how the craft is done. And hitting your main tools with a hammer, that's why they damage, should be done with a hitting mallet.
