Leaking Bicycle Pump Head at valve: Quick Repair 

I've used this tip many times to rejuvenate bicycle tire pumps. Don't know why others haven't caught onto the trick. Glad it was useful. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Good substitute. I'll keep that in mind. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You may have to repeat the process every 2 or 3 years depending on how much use the pump gets. I've kept several of my bicycle pumps going for over a decade with this simple trick. Thanks for the complement. Regards, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Glad it worked. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

It's a nice trick that's helped me out a number of times. You may need to redo the time every couple of years if it leaks again. Regards, Tony

Let me know how you make out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Glad you found it helpful. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Glad it worked. Please subscribe if you have not done so. Regards, Tony

Thanks for the feedback on the electrical tape. Regards, Tony

Same here. First looked for the SKS pump part online. 1.5 euro for the rubber part and 5 euro shipping or completely swap the head for like 8 euro + shipping --> electrical tape that I had just fixed the issue (for now) . Tony saved the environment, I hate to throw working stuff away, and saved myself some money.

It's a neat trick I've used for many years and saved me many dollars. Regards, Tony

Good ideas.

Works on most but not all pumps. You may have to redo the plumbers tape in a year or two, so hold onto the roll. If you get a pump where this does not apply, just sent me a comment and I'll try and help, or give you some good references. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

It's a nice little trick. It may have to repeated every few years, but it saves in not having to buy a new pump. However, if the pump head or tube break, there are several pump head and hose replacements. The best are from Planet Bike and Topeak, both of which I have used. Regards, Tony

Good work. Has saved me a few dollars also over the years. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Glad to help. It has saved me money in not having to buy new pump. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Great that it worked for you. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Glad to help. Saved several of my pumps. Regards, Tony

Glad you found it helpful. It's certainly saved many pumps I've worked on. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Yes, it's also saved me a lot over the years. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

You're Welcome. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Let me know how you make out.

Yes it worked. No more leaking!

The tip on leaking pump head valve with plumbers Teflon tape may prevent leakage. Presta valve are known to "stick" and not let any air in or out and the "passage" seems blocked. Therefore, it's important open the valve itself and give it a tap (letting a tiny amount of air out) so it won't "stick closed." Sometimes you may have to take the pump apart, clean off the plunger, and put some grease on the plunger edges, and reassemble. Finally, spare tubing and valve heads are available from Topeak and a few others at Amazon: www.amazon.com/Topeak-Twinhead-Bicycle-Floor-Upgrade/dp/B000FI6XF8/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=replacement+valve+head+for+bicycle+floor+pump&qid=1578147739&sr=8-4 Let me know how you make out.

Great. It's a neat trick. Regards, Tony

Glad it worked. Also visit our RU-vid home site at: ru-vid.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Also se our video on Pump Repairs: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PsQkXhBA0vg.html Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Glad to help. You may have to reapply the Teflon tape after a couple of years, but I've been able to keep pumps going for decades. Regards, Tony

Thank you. Regards, Tony

Your welcome. Regards, Tony

Your welcome. Regards, Tony

Many thanks, I have been researching "do it yourself bicycle repair" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of - Viyackson Yenacob Review - (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my brother in law got amazing success with it.

Looks interesting. I would note that my videos are free (not for profit) and as new information becomes available, I remove and update the videos. For those beginners willing to pay, this collection may serve their purpose. Thank you Serb.

Your welcome. There are some pumps with duel heads that require a slightly different repair and I'll check on some youtube videos of this for other viewers. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

What is the make of your pump? Take a look at the pump chuck that you attach to the valve and the hose and make sure there are no cracks or breaks where air can leak out. Check around the gauge that air is not leaking. Most likely it's the piston head inside the pump cylinder that's worn or needs grease. Unscrew the top of the cylinder (the end with the handle) and remove the entire rod and piston. Take a look at the piston head. If it's leather (as with Silca Pumps) see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dOb_w8_7tc4.html If it solid and has an O-Ring, clean the O-Ring, piston head and inside the cylinder best you can (I stuff some cloth down so one end of the cloth is in the cylinder and the other end is out, twist the cloth around and remove). Put some grease on the O-Ring and re-assemble. If that fails, it is possible that the O-Ring is worn and needs to be replaced. You can take the old O-Ring or the entire pump with you to a local hardware store or Home Depot and look for a replacement OR look for a replacement on the internet.

നിനക്ക് സ്വാഗതം. ഞങ്ങളുടെ RU-vid ഹോം സൈറ്റും ഇവിടെ സന്ദർശിക്കുക: ru-vid.com ആശംസകളോടെ സുരക്ഷിതമായ സൈക്ലിംഗ്, ടോണി

If you're referring to the valve at the end of the plunger rod with in the pump cylinder, often times just taking the pump apart, cleaning and re-greasing is all that is needed as shown in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XxKYtuf3Ltg.html This will also work a leather washer such as a Silca leather washer. If you need to replace the washer see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QH6VE1Q9S40.html If you need to service a Park floor pump see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-drgLn5k2vOc.html Sometimes you'll need to replace the rubber "O" ring or leather washer in some pumps. You can get them from the pump manufactures, on line or, in the case of the "O" ring, from an automotive or hardware store. Let me know if this answers your question or did you have something else in mind. Regards, Tony

Thanks,but im having trouble removing the guage cylinder,because something's ticking/rumbling around inside it (outlet valve)

What you seem to be referring to is the bike pump "check valve" at the pump gauge. It varies with the pump. What kind do you have? Then I can try to find you a reference. Tony

sorry, I do not know what kind of bike pump it is, the problem with it is when i pump,the air returns to compression chamber/body of pump.

This is the best I can find for you: www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12671709 Don't know if there's anything else I could suggest other than the bike shop to look at it or just get a new pump. Good luck and sorry I can't help you more. Tony

What is the make of your pump?

BV erogonics

If it's a single head pump as in the video, a pair of pliers should remove the cap to the valve head. If you have a Dual Valve Pump Head, see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jlEj0sHEuGA.html&ab_channel=RJTheBikeGuy You may have to look up your specific pump on RU-vid or look for the manufacturers specifications on the internet since there are may pumps mechanisms that are used. What is the make/type of pump you're using?

On most single head pumps, you can unscrew the cover of the pump head. You may need to wrap the end (so as not to damage the plastic) and then use pliers. If you're using a duel head pump, see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jlEj0sHEuGA.html You can also purchase a new valve head such as the Topeck Smart Head or Planet Bike Head and Hose. I've used the Topeck Smart Head and Hose on broken pump heads with good success. Far cheaper then a new pump. What is the model of your bicycle pump and is it single or duel head (i.e., for presta and schrader)?

Depending on the pump, you may be able to get a replacement head or replacement head with tubing that will fit. Check out Amazon and other vendors on the internet.

@@tony10speed Hi I found the problem it was the rubber seal plunger grommet in the cylinder was damaged

@@TW39 Thanks for the feedback. We all can take hope some helpful information. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

Do you mean it's leaking from around the pump head lever (used to lock the head down)? If that's the case, the plastic of the pump head may be broken. Hard for me to say without seeing the pump. You may want to take it down to your local bike shop. Sorry I can't help more. Tony

A number of possibilities: 1. The internal gasket within the chuck is so worn, the chuck just slips off the valve. One could try a number of layers of plumber tape around the gasket and try the pump again. In some cases, one can buy the inexpensive chuck gasket on-line specific for your pump (check the manufacturers web site and Ebay). 2. The chuck lock bar may be broken. You can look for a replacement chuck for that specific pump on-line, but most are hard to find. Topeak makes a chuck and tubing replacement kit - but - the problem I've found with the kit is that the tubing and adapters may not fit your pump. And the kit is expensive. 3. Finally, maybe it's time for a new pump. What is the make and model of your current pump? Keep in touch and let me know how you make out, Tony

Will work. Do you have to reapply to the out side often? Placing the tape in the pump head will last several years before reapplying the tape. Regards, Tony

Well yes I would have to, but hopefully I would not to do it often. (but see later) The pump I use connects with a screw on flexible adaptor. Problem is on some valves when I screw it fully on it opens the valve letting air leak, so I have to loosen it a bit which means air will leak out round the thread a bit. I am actually not sure how they seal presentably when you screw it on fully it should seal at the bottom, but as I said, on some valves (not all) that presses the deflate pin in and you are fighting a losing battle! Indeed I have 2 flexible adaptors and one works best on different wheels there seem to be manufacturing inconsistancy I also put some on the other end of the flexible adaptor were it screws into the pump. I've always had problems full inflating the tires in the past, I could only get them to a certainly pressure and not more, I'd then go to a garage and use the pump there to get them fully up to pressure. I have just been to check them now and have got both tires up to a pressure I am happy will, ie very firm, never been able to do that before. When I checked I notice there was bit of tape still on the valve (under the dust cap) and I inflated the tire more without applying more tape, I also noticed bit of a white where the adaptor screws into the pump. I do also have a small pump that connects like yours, but a hand pump type that is a bit hard to use. You are putting the tape in a different place to me though, you could put some on the tube valve too but you probably won't need to. Basically anywhere there is a connection white tape will likely help. But anyhow it does the job

I am finding these valves baffling, I read there is a plastic X in the connector which you can pull out and reseat, I pulled it out and left it out and found it impossible to inflate the tire at all, it seem it needs to slightly open the valve for you to inflate the tire, but if it is open too much, it is really hard work. What I found was when I could inflate the tire it leaked slightly but not much, maybe that is how the are suppose to work? I dunno, still my tire are inflated so a bit of tape does seem to help so I'll leaver it at that!!

Just for our viewers knowledge, what type of bike tubes are you using. Thanks and regards, Tony

Well firstly is is a schrader valve, I assumed yours was too but I think yours is probably a presta which does not have the same problem. So it's just a standard mountain bike tube, from poundland, ie cheap but as good as any imo. Anyhow, I could write an essay on this, and find it odd I can't find any info on the internet about it. Schrader valves seem to rely on you manually depressing a central pin on in the valve, many push on connectors rely on a lever to do this. So I deduce from that that the force of air pressure alone is not enough to open the valve and I seem to find this myself whilst experimenting. There is no lever with screw on connectors and the valve opens because there is a plastic X inside the flexible connector so as you screw it one it opens the valve. You can actually remove the X with a pair of pliers and I did his and found I could not inflate the tire at all the valve seemed impossible to open with air pressure alone, hence to inflate it the valve must be slightly open, however if it is open too much too much air escapes and that seems to be the case with one of my connectors however the other connector seems to just open it enough to get air in without too much escaping, hence it seems to be a bit of a black art inflating them, depending on the pin length in the valve one connect might work but another one might not. It is hard to pull the plastic X out with out damaging it so I am not gonna mess with it any more...... however I did, I managed to pull out one what did not work well, seemed to be too long so I filed it down a little and put it back in, now it won't open the valve at all! However I put a small bit of cardboard in to make it a bit longer and I can get it to work somewhat, the other one still works OK but I've ordered another connector anyway so I have a hopefully good spare. They are a terrible design imo, the presta is much better I dunno why they use them really, they are nothing but trouble!

What is the make and model of the pump? Is it a dual headed pump head and, if so, are the dual heads opposite each other or side by side?

@@tony10speed Aergun x-1000. Dual head, not opposite or side by side. Single opening

@@christhomson877 Remove the nut from the tire valve. Make sure the pump head is pushed all the way down. Open the lever all the way so that it's parallel to the pump head. If it still leaks, the pump is guaranteed and I would contact the manufacturer or check with your local bike repair shop. I have no easy fix for this type of pump and internal working of the pump head work are not available from the company. Tony

Some handle attaches to the shaft of the piston in a variety of ways depending on the pump. Some just screw onto the piston, some are held be a bolt and others by a small medal rod. I suggest you take it to your local bike shop since it's difficult for me to evaluate with actually seeing it and having it in my hands. Let me know how you make out.

You can try the above tip. If that doesn't work, check out this reference: www.trails.com/how_13248_troubleshoot-bicycle-pump.html Other possibilities include a faulty or leaking value on the inner tube itself. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

Most Woods (Dunlop) valves are too short to accept a presta pump valve head. You can get a "presta schrader" valve adapter (cheap from Amazon) and use the schrader side of most dual head pumps: See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xSJmdGA2bW8.html If the schader side of a dual pump head leaks, you'll need to take it apart, clean and reassemble. See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jlEj0sHEuGA.html Good luck and give me some feed back. Regards, Tony

Well now you know and it works for most (but not all) bike pumps. So maybe you can feel good that your next bike pump will last a lot longer. If you run get one where this technique doesn't work, let me know. There are other techniques for some of the bike pumps out there. Regards, Tony

Thanks NexaYa

Thank you for great videos!

Did you try this? How did it work for you?

Do you have a dual side by side pump chuck (head)? That's a different video I can send you. Does it still leak around the valve head or could there be a crack in the valve chuck or tubing? Let me have a little more info and let me see if I can help. Tony

Experiencing a leak on Bontrager pump head, but right above where it screws onto the tubing and that lower assembly of the pump head does not seem to be something we can take apart. Thank you for this video, though, so great how many people you have helped!

You're welcome. Works for most pumps but some double headed pumps (Schrader/Presta) have a slightly different assembly and I'll have to do a video on that. Regards, Tony