Leaking Kenmore Washer - How to replace Shaft Seals. 

I found this video extremely helpful, I couldn't have made the repairs I did without it, but I do want to toss in a couple of considerations for DIYers or even people experienced at making repairs. We have an old Whirlpool commercial capacity washer and dryer in our company shop that we've used for 20+ years. I got them off my mother when she passed. They've done yeoman's work of at least 5 loads a week, year in and year out ever since. I've worked on them regularly through the years changing out belts, relays, switches, igniters, pumps, transmissions, hoses, controls, etc. We could easily afford a new one, but I love these old machines, their simplicity, their capacity, and their reliability. Having said this, I think this has been the most challenging repair of all that I've made on it. Here's why! The drive block was frozen to the drive tube. No amount of WD-4- or Liquid Wrench made any impression. I finally had to place my spanner underneath the nut to get enough leverage with the 3-jaw puller to break it loose. When it finally did, it broke the tube lock on the bottom and the whole assembly came out. It then took concerted effort with a rubber hammer and a wood block to separate the two from the inner tub and even more to get the drive block off the shaft. I have a small press. This is information is not meant to dissuade you, just warn you in advance that this may not go smoothly. That assembly hasn't ever been out of the machine, even when I put in the new transmission. Truthfully I didn't even know the upper and lower seals were there. The problem with mine, perhaps like yours, is that I let is leak for more than a month before I gave up on it and decided to tear it down and make the repairs. This added some rust and other issues to the springs and getting them loose. I've machined and mechaniced since I was 19 and I rarely give up. I'm almost 69 now and I did eventually get it all out and I did make the repairs. I also broke the water inlet spout which cost me about $45 more dollars. We've always kept pretty much an entire machine in our storeroom and other than the upper and lower seals and the tub seal, I had a transmission I rebuilt on hand and a brand new spintube assy. I also have access to welders, lathes, flame-spray, end mills, etc. Hence I wasn't afraid to break something if I had too. I've rambled all this time to say that you less well-armed DIYers may need a contingency plan in case things don't go so smoothly or quickly. We're in a small town, but we have the Internet here (Amazon) and we also have an appliance parts store 20 minutes away. If they don't have it they bring it out of LA the next day. Honestly, when I was 19 I would've beat the Hell out this machine with a ballpein hammer. People would've heard me take the Lord's name in vain repeatedly. Sailors would've blushed. Of course then I'd have had to go out and buy a new washer. Five decades later I have a few more skills, cooler temper, better tools, and easy access to the proper parts if I break something accidentally. I also have the luxury of taking a week to do this repair since I'm the boss and we were smart enough to buy a used spare Kenmore clone set a couple of years back for standby. Almost all the same parts on both. I find this to be the best video on YT for this repair topic. I hope this comment wasn't too far off track and wish all of you the best of good fortune in the teardown and reassembly of your washer. Keep up the good work William Kasper...

Great vid! As appliance tech for last 22 years I never seen this direct drive washer leaking because of the upper transmission shaft seal . it is always tub seal or lower delta support seal. And yes this is the most dependable and repair friendly washer ,always worth to repair it and keep it! These days appliances are disposable junk made to last 5 years .

Thank you!! If I had not seen this I would have been at a loss since after disassembly it was clear that the leak coming from the center of my 25 year old Kenmore was not the tub seal. If not for this I probably would have retired the machine. I used a socket to seat the upper seal as another comment suggested and things are back to normal. As for removing the basket, I tried a 3 jaw puller but it didn't break it loose. I ended up removing the spanner nut, placing the spanner wrench (tabs facing up) over the shaft, screwing the spanner nut back on partway, then placing a large adjustable wrench above the spanner wrench (resting on the shaft) and using two large c-clamps (one on each side of the shaft) to compress the spanner wrench and adjustable wrench together. This easily broke the basket free. It had never been removed in 25 years.

Thank you for this video. I’m right there on my 80’s Kenmore. The ex used to flood the basement with the leak.I got another used one and always wanted to rebuild this one. This washer was in my parents house in the early 80’s. The girl is gone, but my love of this washer isn’t. They sure as hell, don’t make them like they used to. Thanks,William. I’m drinking a cold one in your honor.

Great job, I've watched this video about six times now. I think I've got it. Very thorough commentary and step by step visuals. Got my part and patients really, wish me luck. Thanks again for this video, I feel confident I can do the job.

My Kenmore washer has Transmission cover seal, Tub seal, lower spin tube seal, upper spin tube seal, and Transmission upper shaft seal. I'm replacing all, don't wanna go back there in a hurry. Replacing clutch kit also. Your video is very helpful.

hey you're right there are not many other videos talking about these shaft seals, I am just starting the job of taking my machine apart and digging in to see where the problems lie. I wouldn't have known to look for the shaft seals and I probably will just replace my shaft seals and my tub seal to hopefully get my machine back to working like its intended. Thanks for stepping up and making this video. cheers bro

4years later! The best instructional video ever!

Thanks for this- I've worked on many things around the home and cars but never a washer, always figured they were way too complicated or just not worth messing with. Very well done and easy to follow

Excellent DIY video, I followed your video and got my leaky washer back in service. Kudos to you !

Great video. Helped me solve my leaking problem. Lots of gunk removal to get my tub out making this a harder job than it looks. I had to use penetrating oil and let it set for an hour. Pully puller worked great.

Great video.. I have a whirlpool top load that runs the same way and the setup is the same, direct drive shaft.. Mine was agitating but not spinning when it reached that cycle. Changed the clutch still didn't spin. Checked the coupler and it was good. With the cabinet off I checked to see if the clutch was spinning when the machine was on, it wasn't. Took off the transmission and manually turned the motor, didn't turn. Decided to go into the transmission. As soon as I set free the plate that covers the transmission, where the oil and gears are, about a cup of water rushed out. So I decided to drain all of the oil that was in the transmission, and half was oil and half water. Cleaned the transmission with kerosine and a clean paint brush, allowed it to dry, topped back up the transmission with 16oz oil and assembled the machine.. Machine is now perking, agitating, spinning and working like brand new.. Before this episode I had to change the tub, upper and lower shaft seals due to a leak. I guess what happened was water leaked into the transmission causing the gears to slip, so if you're changing your seals for a leak, check the oil in the transmission for water as well before you reassemble

Thanks for the demo William. Made my day easier with an internal leak of a 7 year old Kenmore.

Excellent Instructional Video Bill. I like how you didn't have a lot of fluff talk, just got down to business and kept it concise. This is very helpful. I think my tub seal has gone out but I'm going to replace the shaft seals and clutch since I'm in there. My washer is only 28 years old. I've repaired it so many times I can't count. It just keeps trucking along with minor fixes.

Wish I had found this video before I had replaced the tub seal first. Great Video!!! Gotta break it back down for the shaft seals now.

AWESOME VIDEO. Thanks so much. You are correct, there are tons of videos regarding the clutch, the pump, etc. This is the only video on this subject and it is great! Dude, you tore that machine UP! Literally. I learned a lot. 👍

Thanks for the video. My Kitchen Aid washer is 26 years old. I've already replaced the tub seal and other parts. It recently started leaking again but from these seals. The seals are on order and should be in soon. Your video is going to help a lot.

Bill - Thank you so much for this great detailed, articulate video. Saved me so much time. - especially, your suggestions about using tools like a gear puller Generally, most of us will have these tools because we've picked up our repair-skills working on cars. All the best Bill.

Outstanding! Guess how I found out about your video? After 10 years my washer started doing the same and I looked around and by far your video is the best so, I decided to repair the washer myself-Thanks a lot for your great help!

This was extremely helpful and I appreciate the fact that you didn’t sit there and ramble on about silly stuff that didn’t make a difference about fixing the washing machine I did do a little bit different online I used a two finger wheel puller or gear puller against the backside of the nut upside down so I had more of a flat surface and it pulled it straight out on the inside drum thanks for the video it was extremely helpful I’m going to keep using it while I replay as I’m putting it back together to make sure I don’t forget anything awesome I’ll be watching your next videos thanks again Mark.

Excellent video and thanks for taking the time to do it. The direct drive washing machines are worth saving!

Brother, my washing machine is exactly the same and that was my problem, your video was what I needed to solve my problem, thanks for your contribution.

DUDE!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE DIRECTIONS. JUST TAKES PATIENCE BUT WORTH THE MAINTENANCE!! ITS AN OLDIE BUT GOODIE!! AGAIN THANK YOU!!

I have a 25 year old Kenmore 90 series that had the original seals in it. It started leaking water earlier this year so I knew I had to replace them. When I took the old seals out they were so rotten that even the metal sleeves on them were rusty. My old drive tube was so rusty and pitted I just ended up replacing that too. Now it runs like new and doesn't leak any water. Thanks for making this video. You've helped a lot of people do this procedure! Also, using a spanner wrench the spanner nut came off surprisingly easy and the basket I was able to get off fairly easy with a three jaw puller.

Man that was a tremendous amount of work but you probably felt so proud of it knowing that you fixed the problem. I like the simplest ones like washer n drier lid switches lol

Thank you for the video. I have a Kenmore 90 series model 110.4786291 (used for 26 years) and all the parts were the same, even the shaft seal at the transmission level that you did not use. I also change the lower transmission seal with kit part W10111745 & 285352. I prefer using a socket than a screwdriver to instal the seals (9mm for upper shaft seal and 32 mm for lower shaft seal). I tested the washer without the covers. I had a white piece of paper underneath the transmission to confirm there is no longer any water or oil leak. To do so, you will have to bypass the lid switch with a 14-gage copper wire.

Thank you sir. The best video I’ve seen on this subject. I watched 7 videos but non as detailed as yours.

I happened across your video after doing a similar repair on my washer a few days ago. One thing I don't see in the video, nor in the comments, is that there are actually two of each of each of these seals. They are stacked on top of each other. I replaced the basket drive with the brake on it (and a good thing since mine was very rusty and didn't want to come out of the base) and it came with the seals already in it but the base housing with the larger seal actually had a second one underneath the first. I only ordered one so I only replaced one but to do the job right you should replace both. The basket drive with the brake also has two of those smaller seals stacked on top of each other. You can verify this with the parts diagram on sears parts direct website.

Thanks for the video. My older Kenmore was leaking and watching this saved me some extra hassle. I thought it was my tub seal, turns out it was the shaft seal. Proved this by doing a load on LOW and MED LOW water levels and it didn't leak a drop until the rinse cycle (full tub on rinse). On MED water level is where it started leaking while agitating. Thus, shaft seal, not tub seal.

Excellent vid , I have this EXACT problem with a 20 year old Kenmore , it alwaya leaked for the last couple of years , but now the clutch is slipping , and so I ran it with the body off and YES the water is dripping onto the cluch on spin and wash cycle , the machine only leaks on medium water level , not on low , so Im guessing it is the same problem , I will follow this vid step by step while doing the job , Thank you for this tutorial on replacing the upper and lower shaft seals , I would have replaced the tub seal alone and been in the same place , with a LEAK !! , Thanks a million for this info , and you were right , its the first vid posted to show a detailed breakdown of the seal locations and replacement , you Rock Bill ., God Bless .........

Great video! Direct and to the point without lacking essential knowledge for the repair. Thank you!

Thanks so much for your video ! I will repair my washer tomorrow,and I hope at the end no leftovers parts.

Great video! Thanks for your hard work and advice! We have the same washer as you have kenmore elite and our leak ended up being the hose where the water fills the washer up on top right at the hose conection but your info is so spot on for more serious stuff ! Thsnks again!

Thanks for the quick response William your answer put my concerns at ease , it ‘s not a hard washer to work on if your mechanical skilled thanks again .

I haven't started to take mine apart yet. At first I suspected the tub gasket, which looked pretty indepth to replace, and now I'm watching your great video. I have to give you top marks for giving the part numbers for the gaskets as well. Don't see that often. Thanks.

Wow! thank you for this, I have a 20 year old washer that the motor still sounds good and is leaking water too. I am going to have to try to do this procedure on it. you did a very good job in explaining each step. Thanks again.

Use a socket or piece of PVC the size of your seal. Helps knock them in flush without risking puncture.

Outstanging video, Sir! You are a Gentlemen & a Scholar! My hat is off to you.

Thanks for sharing. I found that hammering a 3/4" socket on that upper seal will drive it in fairly easily.

This is why I love youtube. The clutch is shot on my 15 year old Roper and I was about to place an order. Then I come across your video and you're the only one that mentions these seals. I was wondering why my clutch housing was rusty. It's because water has been seeping in. Thanks again for sharing!

Great explanation. I have the same problem with my Whirlpool washer and will fix it soon. Thanks a lot for the help.

Really good video , I like that you didn’t include disassembly and went for the repair, Thanks

Nice job! Never get rid of that direct drive, it is the best washer one could have. One of the reasons why the main tub seal doesn't go bad often is because unlike the seals for the agitator shaft and the spin tube, that one isn't on any moving parts. Like you said though, if you have it all apart to replace said seals, you may as well replace the main one too. Can't hurt anything. You could also inspect those white wear pads that you mentioned about towards the end, but based on how the machine was when operating, they're probably fine. Glad you got the 6-padded spin clutch! When removing the spin tube, you can easily get it out by turning the brake cam counterclockwise to release the pads, makes it much easier! Same with reinstalling it too. Smart idea to grease the brake assembly too so the pads move easier. You're probably the first person I've seen do that. Unsure why your tub spring brackets are so rusty. But you can always get replacements if ever needed.

This was one of the most useful video I seen in awhile, thank you.

Thank you. Im new to repairing washing machines and this was very helpful.

The right man for this channel. Excellent. .. I'm giving you an A. Thanks brother.

Excellent video - your detailed descriptions and accompanying video was great!

im a disabled vet that is on soc.sec.and i needed a way to make some extra money i was picking scrap metal doung hauling ppl suff to the dump anything to keep food on the table about 10 years sgo i ran an ad on craigslist saying any body that will show me the basics of washer and dryer repair for everydsy the show me ill donate a day of my time to do whatever they need done whether cutiing there grass or dating there daughter any ways 10 years later im pushing them out of my garage and beating used appliance stores buy 50 % now this video is one of the best ive seen ive removed many tubs when i have one thats stuck i spray a soapy cleaner around the top of the drive block let it sit a few min. then ill take the end of my spanner wrench set it on top of the drive block and give the other end a good solid wack ..comes free everytime

Just got done replacing my clutch plate. Tub wouldn't spin and it was leaking. Figured I would be changing the tub gasket, didn't think about the shaft seals! This is going to save me a lot of time! I would have taken everything apart, put it back together and probably would have had the same problem. I have a 23 year old Kenmore Series 90 washer. I want to keep it for another 23 years! Thanks for a great video!

thanks much for this video...really helped me pinpoint my washer leak, with an easy fix!!!

Great video. Just what I needed for my Roper. I went ahead and got a new washer today. What prices on these things? My Roper was 10 and half years old, so I went ahead after just fixing it from not spinning, and then seeing it was leaking in the center. Then tearing it apart and seeing it was the top seal leaking, that I decided to get a new washer. Now after seeing your video, I will now order those parts and fix my old washer.

Had a leak in mine and the clutch slipping. Playing around I tried a small load and the leak stopped. Guessed a seal or hose was the problem. Got a seal for the tub bottom but got to thinking that it would still leak on a small load if that was the problem. Haven't fixed it yet and think the shaft seals are the issue. Random no spin issues are now a problem even after drying out and cleaning the clutch. Suspect a wiring or timer control dial may also be a problem. Determined to fix it as I don't like any of the new machines available today. Thanks much for this informative video.

Thank you. I was going through the process of elimination to stop my washer from leaking and I didn't think about the seals. Parts are on order. Thank you.

The best instructions I've seen on this. Unfortunately for me, i think I must change the transmission shaft seal.

Thank you for posting this video i was able to fix my washer from your information....god bless

💯 Thanks for the video. 🤙 Good information in it. Step by step. 🔥 Got a project like this coming up.

Thanks for the great video. You can use a socket of the proper diamater to tap in those shaft seals. When installing the transmishion wrap the splines with electrical tape to prevent them from damaging the inner seal.

The Puller worked easily to pull the inner drum and spanner nut. Thanks for the tip.

This is a great video. I appreciate you posting it.

Great video. One thing to check are the bearings in the tub support tube. If those bearings are worn, it is likely the spin tube shaft is scored and you'll need to replace those parts or the new seals will go bad in a short period of time. Your spin tube appeared fine though.

A+ on that vid and how it was all handled. It seemed shorter than it was because it was hustled along and there was no extra dwelling and repeating like some irritating vids.

Enjoyed very much. One of the best organized with good video.

Thank you so much, I will put my tools together and fix the washer machine, excellent video, gracias.

Aha! I need to do this even if I change my clutch. This is the real problem. Thanks for this video!

Very well done video!

Thanks for the information. Mine is unfortunately from 2007 so the basket (brake) and transmission/shaft is coming in one piece. I don't want to hit the pry bar too hard but might need to. I put some pb blaster on the top seal so hopefully it goes all of the way down and lubricates the shaft. EDIT: Finally got that sucker off. I had to use a pry-bar to get it off. It had a lot of soap build-up!

Great job. Thanks for sharing!

Very informative. The best yet!

Thanks for the video on the shaft seals. Very helpful. I have the same issue but I did also open up the transmission and found water in the oil. I would suspect that any machine with leaky shaft seals could end up with water in the transmission.

Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful. But my 25 year old Kenmore is leaking. I'll check it out, but if it's not a simple problem like the drain pump, then I'll just buy a new washer. Too much work even for a mechanical person like me. I have also read that newer machines are more energy efficient.

Thanks for posting this video. Most helpful.

Thanks for the vid. Well done

thanks for this instructions ,they helped me to disassemble and assemble it back putting all the springs in the way they should be ,definitively well explained and detailed ,as we need all ..........

Awesome video, my friend, this is the same for coin op whirlpools. 👍

Great job! You did great explaination.

Thank you for the sharing of your knowledge, awesome

great vid! THx! Would using a socket to seat the upper and lower seals been any easier? Thx again

Excelente video, gran trabajo!

Thsnk you got a good look at what needs to be done.

Awesome job!

Old video but people like me are still trying to do this repair. When I looked on appliance parts pros the installation video shows there are 2 seals for the top of the spin tube. Looks like you only replaced one but apparently it worked. WP91939 is the part you changed but underneath it is another seal WP356427.

Good video and I appreciate the information. Did I miss it where you added any oil or grease back into the transmission case before reassembly? Mine had slung a good amount out in the bottom, which is what ultimately caused the clutch to slip. I'm just wondering what I need to stick back in there before reassembly. Any ideas?

Very Helpful for me thanks Will.

Thanks for this video - great!- it’s funny we have an old kenmore washer that we love- it’s 18-19 years old and now seems to need a drum seal / bearing replacement but having problems finding parts- any idea where I could buy them?

Very nice video right to the point! Thank you

Thanks for the video man. About to do this on a 2010 maytag

My tub action seems okay and I recently removed the tub and did a complete tub cleaning, however I noticed what looks like oil residue on the floor under the unit. Does the transmission have an oil seal?

You took a big gamble installing that seal like that, and the way you pulled it out. Use a socket to tap it in not a piece of wood. When pulling it out, pry it out with a screwdriver not between the seal and the wall of the shaft. You risk bending it.

Brilliantly made repair video! Good pace, all the technical points covered, all part #'s called out! QUESTION: Where to get that 1/16" socket or nut driver for the fill shut off level adjustment? I'm about to make a tool using an Alan capscrew that uses the 1/16" Alan wrench.

I have mine all apart now, its definitely the same model, but im seeing something that looks off! Below my lower gasket there appears to be an internal metal cyldinder below it, but its a good inch below where the current lower gasket is. Is that right? I thibk i read that the lower gasket is intended to meet against that thing, so im not sure if i need to raise it up higher to do so

Thank you for this video. It help me learn where to fix the leak. I have a question that I hope you don't mind answering because it would cost some money to fix it. I have 2006 whirlpool direct drive just like yours. Well, I never tried or seen how new HE washing machines they now sell in Lowes or Home Depot, but not sure if I should get a new one because I don't know if it clean the clothes as good as the old one. Please let me know. Thanks.

Any idea where to find the part # for one of the upper transmission seals? There's some oily residue so I'd like to replace them while I'm in there. The pinion gear in the trans that also has the 4 fingers that the clutch rides on. There's a small seal inside of the gear that seals against the main shaft. I removed it but there are no numbers anywhere. Guess I could take it to the local shop and have them match it up. But you seem super knowledgeable about these things so I figured you might have a break down parts list or something. Thanks

THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!

very informative and straight forward...

Hi William My commercial whirlpool washer is leaking too but also with this same washer when it completes the cycle to stop it makes a loud bang sound. What could that problem be ?

When loosening the spanner nut, how do you lock the drum to keep it from spinning?

Great video, my tub makes a lot of noise as it spins up then smooths out a little. Sound is louder if heavier load like jeans. Are there upper and lower tub bearings for the shaft or is this noise from a dirty clutch or both. The seals will be changed either way.

i cant seem to get the pump to come off - any recommendation? i cant use a puller

outstanding video

There are two spin shaft seals at the top of the center tube. Do we not need to replace both of them? Is there a way to remove them that doesn't risk damaging the center post?