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Thank you for this video. I was about to return the hood because of the horrible instructions and incorrect parts. Your video made me want to give it another shout....done!
I haven't started to take mine apart yet. At first I suspected the tub gasket, which looked pretty indepth to replace, and now I'm watching your great video. I have to give you top marks for giving the part numbers for the gaskets as well. Don't see that often. Thanks.
Also, with my luck I'd go through this 17 day job(lol), put it all back together and the forking thing will still be leaking, if not more, because I pinched this or didn't knock this in evenly.
Wow, finally a quality video. Explained very well for everyone to understand. Excellent camera work and I can actually hear everything you said. Question: you by chance to auto's. 🙂
Thank you so much for the awesome comment. I’m glad this video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching commenting and hopefully subscribing. I’m sorry, but I do not do videos regarding automobiles. Thanks again and stay safe.
I have a question. I have a Kenmore 80 series and as I was putting the motor back in this copper like pin with a small hole on the end fell out of something. Don't know where it came from. Do you know where the pin came from? Would like your advice. Thank you!
Hello and thank you for watching and commenting. That copper or brass looking pin which is about an inch and a half long is used for shipping purposes from the manufacturer to the retail store. No need to worry about the placement. It’s not needed. Hope this was helpful. Thank you for watching commenting and hopefully subscribing.
My issue exactly! And love that have the same dryer set up ! Is a 20 year old dryer so not all exact (the blower thermostat only has two connections , not four). Got an E1 (if I recall) code a couple weeks ago so ordered and replaced the low temp thermostat (and cleaned the dryer and exhaust while at it), all was well, then a couple weeks later it stopped heating. Tested all w my meter (which should have done first time lol) and the thermal fuse was the issue. Have done all this a couple times over the life of the dryer (inc element), so have gotten pretty comfortable doing it! Still, your video was SO helpful in describing what everything does and how to make sure test properly (don’t use my multimeter for anything else so have to remember how to use it each time! Hence why didn’t test two weeks ago lol). Gonna see if can reset the fuse as per your tip, while ordering replacement. Thx again!!
I'm going to try to help a friend. He needed a dryer and I hooked him up from another friend that had just moved and already had a dryer. The next time I saw him he informed me that the dryer wasn't working properly. So now I feel obligated to repair the dryer..
Can I use part L146.1-44.C to replace that red/white stripe part? I’m currently trying to fix my dryer but just realized the part has different numbers. Looks exactly the same though.
Hello William, thank you very much for sharing this. I am about to begin trouble shooting my Mother's drier. One of the terminals on the plug is corroded & got hot enough to begin to melt the rubber. Any idea what could've caused that. I am pretty concerned as you mentioned house fire & I'd like to exercise extreme caution, naturally. Thanks again!
Thank you for watching and commenting. I did mention in the video that I had checked the components and I knew which one was an operative. I would always recommend replacing the part rather than resetting it. If you need to reset it to get you by that is perfectly fine, but I would still recommend purchasing a brand new factory reset component when possible.
I happened across your video after doing a similar repair on my washer a few days ago. One thing I don't see in the video, nor in the comments, is that there are actually two of each of each of these seals. They are stacked on top of each other. I replaced the basket drive with the brake on it (and a good thing since mine was very rusty and didn't want to come out of the base) and it came with the seals already in it but the base housing with the larger seal actually had a second one underneath the first. I only ordered one so I only replaced one but to do the job right you should replace both. The basket drive with the brake also has two of those smaller seals stacked on top of each other. You can verify this with the parts diagram on sears parts direct website.
Thanks for this excellent video. But I have two tips I could add. 1. Lay the dryer on its side, and access to the three components is much easier (can use right hand instead of left and not crane neck lying on floor.) and gravity is on your side getting the screws back in. 2. Whacking the thermal switch on the floor wasn't working for me, but a gentle tap dead center on the back of the plate right behind the switch with the handle of my screwdriver reset it first time!
My tub action seems okay and I recently removed the tub and did a complete tub cleaning, however I noticed what looks like oil residue on the floor under the unit. Does the transmission have an oil seal?
Any videos that show the complete breakdown? I need something that shows wires and all or I'll screw something up. Mine is a 110 something can't remember exactly it's one that has sensors. So it's not exact.
Hello. Thank you for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. I do not have a video of a complete breakdown for this unit. I’m sure there has to be a video that would be close to a complete breakdown for this or a similar unit.
Old video but people like me are still trying to do this repair. When I looked on appliance parts pros the installation video shows there are 2 seals for the top of the spin tube. Looks like you only replaced one but apparently it worked. WP91939 is the part you changed but underneath it is another seal WP356427.
You certainly could do that. The top is the warmest area in the cooker. I placed mine near the racks just to get an average between the coolest and the hottest.
Do you have any suggestions if I've replaced the thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, thermal cut-off, and high-limit thermostat, but I'm still not getting heat? I even had an electrician out who conformed it's not a fuse in the house's electrical box, nor is there a problem with the dryer outlet or power to the dryer.
It very well could be your timer. Search for some RU-vid videos regarding replacing the timer on that unit. There are a number of videos illustrating that. To me it sounds like your timer is malfunctioning.
@@SmokinwithKasket Thank you for your reply. I had a new heating element on the way, just tried it, and that didn't fix it. So I will be ordering the timer. 😅 (and probably give up if that doesn't do it 🫠)
Thank you for the video. I have a Kenmore 90 series model 110.4786291 (used for 26 years) and all the parts were the same, even the shaft seal at the transmission level that you did not use. I also change the lower transmission seal with kit part W10111745 & 285352. I prefer using a socket than a screwdriver to instal the seals (9mm for upper shaft seal and 32 mm for lower shaft seal). I tested the washer without the covers. I had a white piece of paper underneath the transmission to confirm there is no longer any water or oil leak. To do so, you will have to bypass the lid switch with a 14-gage copper wire.
Thanks for this- I've worked on many things around the home and cars but never a washer, always figured they were way too complicated or just not worth messing with. Very well done and easy to follow
There are two spin shaft seals at the top of the center tube. Do we not need to replace both of them? Is there a way to remove them that doesn't risk damaging the center post?
Did the board die again? Did you ever figure out why the board fried? I am concerned about replacing a $550 board without knowing why it fried. make: jacuzzi Model: j-355 Year: 2007
Thank you for watching and commenting. I did not figure out why the board fried. Most likely from a power surge or thunderstorm related I’m guessing. It’s been working great ever since I made this video with no issues at all. I have to say I don’t recall paying $550 for the board though I feel like it was more like, $200 to $300 at the most, but I’m sure prices have increased, especially with the pandemic.
@@SmokinwithKasket Thanks very much for responding. I have my fingers crossed while I replave it. I did notice that my tub was setup for 60 amps wen my breaker was only 50 amps but I cannot think of any reason that would cause a poblem.
@@lornehampel1330 unless it was tripping that shouldn’t be a problem with regards to the breaker. Chaperoned for that board I think you can find a cheaper one. I think I paid less than 300 for mine and I did order that online through Caldera Spa parts I believe.
