Whirlpool Washing Machine Not Agitating Or Not Spinning - See How To Check The Gearcase Replacement parts amzn.to/491bDxS - paypal.me/Angeltheapplianceman Warning: Use the information in this video at your own risk
youtube video's just don't get any better than this superb tutorial. The photography, voice instructions are so easy to follow and understand. I hereby nominate your fine production as a paragon for all video makers to follow. Thank you for a great job.
You are a lifesaver! The long shaft came out and I was not sure how to correctly reinstall it. Your video showing the alignment marks helped me out. Thanks!
The plastic gear on the bottom of the shaft does jump out of its track from time to time. Nothing breaks just shifts. Very frustrating but once it happens, and you catch it, the whole project shifts in your favor. 😮
Great video.. I have a whirlpool top load that runs the same way and the setup is the same, direct drive shaft.. Mine was agitating but not spinning when it reached that cycle. Changed the clutch still didn't spin. Checked the coupler and it was good. With the cabinet off I checked to see if the clutch was spinning when the machine was on, it wasn't. Took off the transmission and manually turned the motor, didn't turn. Decided to go into the transmission. As soon as I set free the plate that covers the transmission, where the oil and gears are, about a cup of water rushed out. So I decided to drain all of the oil that was in the transmission, and half was oil and half water. Cleaned the transmission with kerosine and a clean paint brush, allowed it to dry, topped back up the transmission with 16oz oil and assembled the machine.. Machine is now perking, agitating, spinning and working like brand new.. Before this episode I had to change the tub, upper and lower shaft seals due to a leak. I guess what happened was water leaked into the transmission causing the gears to slip.
your videos are great and very easy to to follow i have Maytag top loader washing machine model # MVWC425BW0, and is making loud noise only when spins and rinse (feels like air craft taking off) i thought it was ball bearings but one person told bearings are machine pressed and can not be replaced have to replace the whole gearcase (that is a big job) so i thought lets first try changing drive pulley/ clutch kit but it did not work, my question is do you have a video specifically for this model how to preplace gearcase and where to get it from, thank you verymuch.
Is there an oil seal in the clutch drum turning gear? I have oil contaminating my clutch, and it seems to be leaking past a seal betwen the shaft and the clutch drum turning gear. The oil seal in the transmission cover also looks suspect.
I have an older Whirlpool direct drive that goes through all the cycles fine but it doesn't swing very far back and forth when it's agitating. I've had it apart 3 times and replaced everything that is suggested in the RU-vid videos I've watched. Transmission rebuilt, new clutch and new agitator dogs. (IT"S NOT THE DOGS)! The bottom agitator shaft can easily be held still by hand like something is slipping?
Do you have a video showing how to remove the agitate cam kit from the agitator shaft. Or could you explain it. I need to replace that part, but dont know how to get the spring off.
When the transmission and motor is removed from the washer but electrical remains plugged in. Laying on floor. when its on spin should i be able to hold long shaft and easily stop it from turning? Coupler is good, motor is turning good, agitates good, drains / pumps out water good, timer advances but doesnt spin. Motor sounds like its spinning agitator but doesnt.
Hi, great video. I have a Kenmore that does not spin. I replaced the clutch, ran it 3 times and it worked fine. The next time it did not spin. Took everything off again replaced and ran the machine and the tub was spinning. Tried again and the tub won't spin. Looked at the clutch in spin mode like you said in your other video, and noticed the clutch not moving. Could it be the transmission?
Hello, i have this style machine and have a question and would appreciate some info. In the bottom of the motor area there are 3 plastic caps and inside them are 3 pins with cotter pin holes, they are just loose in the caps doing nothing, is that supposed to be or are they suppose to be holding something together? Thank you.
Can someone tell me if all the drain parts look in good shape, how likely is this link a neutral drain issue? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KSizNQrLkCc.html Can the parts look good but still be faulty? I recently took it apart and had a worn motor coupler rubber and dry grease in the clutch, I am thinking the cover seal is leaking but could it be the pinion seal ? Is the clutch was slipping could that also mimic a neutral drain issue? thanks
Vote them out! But.... S. I. Hayakawa said in his rhetoric book, that the people will always get what they want. It may take 100 years, but they will get it. Unfortunately, by the time 100 years has past, the people will have forgotten why they thought they needed to change things in the first place. Jordan Peterson said, Before you pull out a stop sign, you better find out why it was put there in the first place. Was NY trying to change something and has now reached it's "goal"?
This is not human. Chat GPT? Uses the word come instead of comes!though there is inflection of tone it is very choppy and robotic and the tool is not a spatula, lol! Also, it only shows how to inspect the (round gear). That is not my problem. It must be in the plastic parts on the shaft which it does not attempt to disassemble. It suggests buying a new or good used transmission.
I hope someone can help me. I have a washer that I am unable to turn the coupler on the transmission clockwise it will only turn counter clockwise BUT with motor and transmission out of washer both spin freely. Since I am currently unemployed I have to determine if its the transmission or something like the brakes dragging or basket drive assembly. i noticed the cam has no play outside the washer but while turning the basket drive assembly counterclockwise to get it back up into the washer it is difficult maybe its supposed to be? Also once in the washer there is alot of play in cam. One other thing I noticed was once the transmission was in the coupler would spin clockwise a little bit but not enough to turn the tub then I would hear a click and it wouldnt turn anymore and it never turned far enough for the tub to spin. Is that click something locking up with the brakes or in the transmission? i disassembled the brakes took of the spring to make sure they move freely. There was no play in the brakes so they seem okay to someone who doesnt know what they are supposed to feel like. Also we replaced the transmission fluid with 90 wt. Ugh someone please help we have been watching videos and searching the internet for a week. We replaced the capacitor before figuring out it was bound up somehow. thanks in advance for any help you can give.
I wish I had watched this video first! Really good videos. I tore into the transmission,found nothing wrong. I found one of your other videos on troubleshooting clutch problems and watched it. It was slipping. Replaced it like you showed and it went together like butter! Thanks Dave
I have an older Whirlpool direct drive that goes through all the cycles fine but it doesn't swing very far back and forth when it's agitating. I've had it apart 3 times and replaced everything that is suggested in the RU-vid videos I've watched. Transmission rebuilt, new clutch and new agitator dogs. (IT"S NOT THE DOGS)! The bottom agitator shaft can easily be held still by hand like something is slipping?
Great video, well done. I have a 25 year old Kenmore (January 1993) that stopped spinning. I figured it was the coupler but it was in good shape however I noticed oil sprayed around the inside of the washer body and a coating on the gearcase. Figuring I had nothing to lose I used this video to remove and disassemble the gearcase. When I opened it up the oil was a very thick, opaque, shimmery brown color. It was about as thick as honey. I drained it out and cleaned off the parts as best I could, but the shaft still would not go into spin mode. I took it apart again and used degreaser on the plastic clutch mechanism at the bottom of the shaft. Suddenly the gunk that was holding it popped loose and clutch was able to work. I went over it again and made sure all parts were clean with no oil residue and free to move on their shafts and pivots. I refilled the case with 90W gear oil, sealed it up, and re-installed it. I just ran a load and it is working per spec. I figure the old oil was causing the parts to stick together and the movement of the parts was churning it up and pressurizing the oil until it blew out the vent or past the shaft seal, onto the spinning clutch which sprayed it around. Two points of difference on my machine: First, the gear had a circular punch mark on the middle tooth and the rack had a large circle on the middle groove rather than lines. Second, the thrust washer on the top of the clutch clip was a smaller circular cup washer with a tab, not the larger flanged washer seen here.
Just saw this. Interestingly, I have often wondered if old oil sometimes causes transmission not to work properly. Have to wonder how man y times neutral drains are replaced that were not necessary.
Thanks for the comment Here is the link to my channel in case you want to subscribe of pass it to friends or family ru-vid.com/show-UCeO4F41uVUYsfMRW42D8f0g?view_as=subscriber Theapplianceman
Thanks for the comment Here is the link to my channel in case you want to subscribe of pass it to friends or family ru-vid.com/show-UCeO4F41uVUYsfMRW42D8f0g?view_as=subscriber Theapplianceman
Thanks for watching my videos. Check my website and pass the link to family and friends. Here is the link www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/ Angel theapplianceman
Thank You For Watching My Videos Click on the link below to check my website www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/ Angel theapplianceman
Nice Video, very descriptive. I fear the worst though. I'm almost 90% certain it's that Neutral Drain Gear. I just found out today that Washers have Transmissions.
Thank you. Good information and details. Does the metal spin gear have to be replaced if changing the plastic gear? One seller shows the instructions that they must be changed in pairs but not sure why the metal would be worn. Unless they changed the tooth pattern?
Thank You for watching my videos: Check my website for videos in the order of the problem with your washer or dryer. www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/ Angel theapplianceman
II have a direct drive Maytag and just replaced the seals on the base and basket. I have replaced the clutch and basket tub before with no problems. This time it agitates well and spins well but the brake isn't stopping the the drum at all. Any thoughts on what I did wrong?
Im gonna email you in a few.. This is what i was talking about with Washer Agitator Cam Bearing the plate and ball. In this video the indent on the disc goes down on the ball im just worried bc when i took mine apart it had the flat surface on the ball but bc i had another one from different model i opened it up and the indent was up on the shaft with flat surface down on the ball opposite this video but it also has that different tranny shaft that goes on top of the cam bearing disc that had a indent in it(i sent you a pic. In this video the shaft that stays in gearcase that the two gears go on, one metal and that the yellow gear goes on, looks like mine bc its smaller and the shape. The one i found at my house had a shaft that was thicker and flat on the top and my gears washer and c-clip wouldnt fit. So now im a little worried wondering what to do indent down or did someone in the factory from assembly put disc in the wrong way ughhh i guess I'll just go with this video. I know the Agitator cam bearing 285205 provides a smooth surface for the agitator cam to rotate on but im worried i wont do it right. Both had same gearcase number on the gearcase but different part numbers on the parts inside and on the cover. Weird but i gotta figure this out. Just gotta love these vids!!!!!!!!
Excellent video. This is worthy the time it took to make it. Tomorrow I will deal with my transmission, I was so afraid of it. You are a true instructor and thanks a lot for your knowledge.
Very detailed. What are the symptoms you would experience that are related to this repair? Lack of agitiation? No movement of the drum at all? Obviously, a commercial repairman would just swap out the transmission with a new or rebuilt one, as this is considerable work.
Thanks for watching my videos. You can help me grow this channel by passing my channel address to family and friends. ru-vid.com/show-UCeO4F41uVUYsfMRW42D8f0g?view_as=subscriber Angel theapplianceman
@@theapplianceman Could it be that one or both of the plastic pieces that catch the big gear get worn on the edge, or maybe the spring in that one gets weak? If the ends of the pieces get dull, could we possibly sharpen the edge just a little?
hate that when they make gear out of PVC. think they do that when it wear down, end up replacing it or get a new washer. steel gear be alot better. they also save $ by making it out of PVC.
Our transmission is leaking oil out the top, and also out toward the motor (it smells burning during the cycle). My husband and I ran the motor independently - no burning smell. So we isolated the problem to the transmission. Should we order a new transmission on ebay, or work with what we have and repair the small parts. Also, we did take the cover off the gearcase and the oil inside was frothy with lots of bubbles. Oil coming up towards the clutch and I assume toward the coupler/motor since there is a burning oil smell when the two are coupled. We are not washer repair people so we dont know quite exactly what were doing, but we have five kids and more time than money right now. Could both the seals have gone out the same time? Could a failing mechanism inside cause friction and frothing? Any ideas what could be causing the problem???
I would look for a cheap good use transmission. When I was doing repairs I never put in a new washer transmission because they are too expensive I always look for a use one that was working right. Check ebay, craig list for someone selling a washer cheap for parts etc. Good luck
@@theapplianceman, thank you, we'll do that. I calculated and we will spend about the same amount of money replacing various seals, parts, oil and gasket sealant as buying a used transmission. Thank for your advice. Your videos have been very helpful in our understanding of the inner workings. Thank you for taking your time to help others :)
@@theapplianceman We bought a used transmission on ebay and the problem still remains. Cycle begins to agitate then a burning smell is created, also now, white smoke. We are replacing the motor this weekend. The machine seems to be "stuck" on heavy duty agitation. The knob turns, but the agitation speed will not adjust. All cycles can be selected fine..goes into fill, rinse, spin fine also. Just agitates super aggressive. Thank you for your help so far!
I would get a good used motor. It is possible the the oil that leak from the transmission got to the motor winding. I would use used parts since they should be way cheaper. angel
