Thanks for the useful video! I changed my seals yesterday. My bike mechanic friend gave me a tip to use PVC pipe for pressing the seals into place. I found a 1.5 inch PVC pipe was the perfect size.
Just did this today! One thing I found that helped push the seal in evenly without poking it with a flathead is to use the old seal as a press. Once the new seal is in, the old seal will sit on the wider part of the fork so it just falls out. Good luck to yall doing this. It's not hard at all.
Hello, I have to do this operation on my wheel, because the seal is leaking and I would like to take the opportunity to replace the suspension springs, could you tell me the dimensions of the spring? Thanks for your help 😊✌️
Thanks! Had to do this yesterday. Just a suggestion, put a little SRAM butter on the inside of the dust seal as well. Stanchion slides through both seals easy as then.
@@2cells1pack with this kind of guides the mroe the merrier, theres barely any good guides for this kind of stuff, a good one also would be bearing replacements ! Thank you for all you guys do
This is just a seal replacement. The equivalent seals on an road motorcycle will last 20km or more and on an off road bike it is it bit more of a lettery dependent on conditions but, I would inspect them only if their is an oil leak at about 5,000 km. A proper 'fork maintenance would also include disassembly of the cartridge and checking the shim stack for any debir between the shims and checking for any deformed shims. Be aware that not all 5 weight hydraulic fluids are made equal. As 5 weight is outside the SAE oil rating range (SAE ratings are used for rating oils, not suspension 'oil' which is really hydraulic fluid). Consequyently there is a wide of range in viscosity from different manufactures of 5 weight hydraulic fluids. For these thinner hydraulic fluids the Centi-Stokes rating is normally preferred and is more consistent across brands. Suggest around 19CSt. Also be aware that some brands use more /less better/worse quality anti-foaming agents in their oil. I tend to use Ohlins 19CSt weight which is admittedly very expensivebut of very high quality - very stable viscosity across a wide temperature range. If you don't want to do this work yourself any mnotorcycle suspension guy has the tools skills and knowledge to do this and also help you fine tune the shim stacks to suit your preferences.
Hello, thank you very much for this very informative comment. I have to do this operation on my wheel, because the seal is leaking and I would like to take the opportunity to replace the suspension springs, could you tell me the dimensions of the spring? Could you recommend a reference for the spinnaker seal? Thanks for your help 😊✌️
I'm thinking about buying a Patton this week and I was talking to the seller TODAY about some cases of oil leaking. Has this happened frequently? Should I be worried? I'm a light user.... Thanks for the video!! You are a very important member of the community! Keep it up!!
Hey that was a useful tutorial, couple of questions: 1) Have you heard of cases where the shocks develop play overtime and ends up making a clunking noise? I was wondering what is the cause of it, would it be some type of internal wear? 2) Where do you dispose the used oil?
I haven't heard of cases where the shocks develop play over time, I think its easier for the play to develop on the screws/structure rather than the shock itself? Especially if you replace all the seals. I collect the used oil and when I have a batch I bring it to a recycle center.
So many questions: {anyone's opinion is welcome}} Is this periodic (yearly maintenance) of should riders just wait until failure/leaks before replacing seals? What are the actual physical differences between the Sherman and Patton shocks? Is the fluid chamber a different size diameter or length? Are there different versions of internal springs with what variety of force that can be replaced for different rider weights or style of riding? Are there aftermarket silicone gaskets that last longer or have other attributes? And, can these shocks be adapted (easily) to the I.M. V13, V14 or BG Extreme replace their initial stanchion designs, and what are the performance differences? When will Leaperkim implement a dual-suspension design? Or, do you believe the weight penalty is not justified? Lastly, will KingSong ever admit that the roller-sliders were/are a mistake and redesign their entire suspension wheel line-up? {Thanks for the repair videos!}
I would do it periodically - but also should be done as needed and observed. If you observe that oil is leaking from your suspension. The difference is length - and fluid amounts. There are different weight internal springs - 62, 66, 70lb etc. I would not say it's user replaceable. The seals are common seals that you can purchase from aliexpress. No they can't be adapted to other wheels. leaperkim's plans are only known to leaperkim. kingsong - who knows?
Hello, thank you for your great video 👍 I have to do this operation on my wheel, because the seal is leaking and I would like to take the opportunity to replace the suspension springs, could you tell me the dimensions of the spring? Thanks for your help ☺️✌️
Thank you for the tutorial. What do you think, is it possible to change the oil in the shocks without disassemble of the wheel. Just unscrew big red screws, flip over the wheel, wait for oil leaks out and then add 130 ml of the fresh oil.
@@2cells1packthe shocks on my wheel are not leaking yet (2500 km), I want to replace just oil, without replacing seals. The disassembly is not very difficult, but still. I think I will try.
@@2cells1pack You are right and I did full service with seals and oil replacemant. But I checked the possibility of just oil service. It is not convenient, but possible. You need to remove the top cover additionally.
Great video! My question is, is it possible to just replace the entire shock opposed to maintenance? Sorry, im kinda lazy, and i would be ok to jist purchase 2 shocks instead of pmcs'n it. (Preventitive maintenance checks and servises). Thank you for all your hard work albert! Means a lot! These the videos i miss. Small dives into the minds of the architects!
@2cells1pack so what would be the cost of the shocks, vs the oil, and bushings? And the time it would take to do it? Heat gun is a special tool as well. Most prolly won't posses one to maintain their wheel every 800 miles. But I'll look up the price if I can find it. 😆
A replacement shock is upwards of $250CAD. The tools for the job is probbaly less than $100, and materials for each job probably isn't significant. (order of $10?)
It's really more done on an as needed basis. Dirt gets into seals and allows oil to leak. So the more dirt you experience -> the higher probability of leaks.
Ride one review recommended 100ml on rebound side and only 80 ml on compression side . Also said that 130 ml on the Patton makes it very stiff. Just a thought
Same as tuning a suspension fork on the front of a motocross bike. Fluid amount is very important because more or less air in chambers. More fluid and less air stiffer because fluid cannot be compressed and air can.there for more air is more plush
The fluid has channels to move around and the ability to be restricted in order to act as a damper. Without the fluid, there is no damping. If you overfill the fluid - then this can cause problems, but there's definitely a balance that needs to be striked in order for the damping to work properly.
