Learning Network Cable Management - Cat6 Install in Small Office 

To save space here I didn't bother with it, but yes, one should always do that. I'm fine with unrolling the service loop and briefly using one of the cables as a string, but a string would have been better.

@@tciproductions I'll admit I did find it odd and a bit off-putting that you commended the previous installer for leaving a pull string on that run and then did not run one yourself on any of the runs. I get that you can use the existing cable and they are short enough runs that its not that big of an issue but it still stood out as a strange omission is in an otherwise clean and well thought out install.

@@abeardedbucketyes I thought the same. More constructive feedback. Leave something the way you want it left for you. Overall really liking your videos!

Agreed! Any wall or chase that I have to fish, I want to be certain that nobody ever has to fish it again. Few dollars worth of string means more efficiency for all parties in the future.

Could you explain that part? I didn't understand why you'd do that.

@@rl9702 Very short explanation: Keystone jacks, patch panels, and true "field termination plugs" all use PCBs (printed circuit boards) inside that are component rated (i.e., Cat 5e, Cat6, etc) and help impedance-match your cable run. This is important for optimal performance. Simple plastic 8P8C modular plugs ("RJ45 plugs") do not have this, and there are fitment issues (proper fit with different brands or types of cables) as well. The ANSI/TIA-568.2 Specifications lay out the standards for balanced twisted pair cables, permanent links, channels, etc. Permanent links (including UTP cables in your walls) are optimally done "jack to jack" (keystone-to-keystone or patch panel-to-keystone) to ensure best performance in terms of crosstalk, return loss, "headroom", and other parameters that are tested with cable verifier or cable certifier equipment. While permanent link cables terminated on both ends with plastic RJ45 plugs might "work" in a given instance, these cable links demonstrate the worst performance when tested. For more info, start with TrueCABLE's website and search in their blog or videos for "Choosing the Right Termination - Keystone Jack vs RJ45 Connector ..", "Selecting the Correct RJ45 Connector", and "What Does a Bad Termination Look Like?" Hope this helps!

@@rl9702 The RJ45 rention catch comes off/is damaged easily and the people in the office aren't likely to fix that. With a socket/keystone jack you just replace a plug to plug lead with another & can buy off the shelf spares. I'd have gone for 6A (screened 10 Gbit capable) cable rather than 6 and at least 2 ports to each plate but that probably wasn't in their budget. It looks a whole lot nicer after that tidy up hopefully they can migrate away from the rat's nest in cupboards & under desks over time.

@@chrisharvie-smith486 Very helpful explanation. Thank you!

@@chrisharvie-smith486 Cat 6 will easily do 10Gb in that office so not really worth the trouble or cost

Nice! I have one coming up that I hope to add as a vid soon.

Thanks! Yes, I use a cable comb often, you'll see it in other vids I put up.

I was also wondering, in my home I have cat6 cable can I put cat6a keystone? Or should I stick with cat6 keystones? I am also curious about patch cables, cat6a are more common, is that fine to use rather than cat6? I understand that the network is only able to go as fast as the slowest link. Again Mahalo for your time.

Hi Paul, right now I am using this all in one tool: amzn.to/4aZMPXJ and I use it with these jacks: amzn.to/4d0A1lP The one linked in the video also works but I had trouble finding the jack in quantity so I've adjusted to the Everest brand.

@@pharpester A cat6A keystone is a bit on the expensive side but a cat6 cable can terminate onto it just fine. It is also okay to use cat6a patch cords between things even if the panels and keystones are cat6, that won't cause any issue.

Thank you for the information on the all alarms punch tool, I was having difficulty finding the linkomm keystones as well. I was just trying to follow your suggestions in compatibility with all in one tools and Keystone jacks.

@@tciproductionsyea I was worried that cat6 vs cat6a cable vs keystone vs RJ45s. As a person who works networks, but does not install them, I’ve had a steep learning curve.

I considered it briefly, I had j-hooks with me. I had my hilti gun with me as well to install my own supports but in the end I thought for a small office example it would just be ridiculous to show people that method in a space like this. The bat wing j-hooks I have need a threaded rod and just were useless with the ceiling wire hangers, so with that in combo with the overkill for 6-8 wires, I skipped it. I will use them soon and document it for sure.

do you have a link for red two-piece grommet here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X42x1FI86v4.html @@tciproductions

@@waregle82 I do, it is this one: www.discount-low-voltage.com/rfg2-ez-path-firestop-grommit-kit

I used to install the DEC Vax terminals that way but the cable was super beefy, big diameter. They were orange pixel text only terminals and they were awesome. I wasn't sure how it would work in such a small office, wish I had seen these in action way back when.

There are some good results long term for this method, nothing I hate more than a switch that doesn’t count it’s ports in the same direction as the panel :)

I bought two and they are just amazingly packed with features. I wish their interface was a little more modern, they would really take the pro-enthusiast portion of the market easily. A great brand.

It's the LinkIQ, it was about $3k on sale when I got it, if you can call that a sale :) But a tool that's worth saving up for if you do a lot of cabling.

Sure, I'm happy to explain that. I was taught to make the horizontal runs "permanent links", which means a keystone at both ends and solid core wire. The idea is that the AP can be repositioned by lengthening the patch cord if needed, or the AP could be replaced with a newer one. After being in the ceiling for a few years, the RJ's become a bit brittle, so when it comes time to swap the AP they often break, or worse, just sort of become intermittent. We usually swap the patch cord at the same time and the keystone allows this without any tools or know-how needed. You don't have to do it this way, it is just how I like to do it and its stuck with me.

@@tciproductions Hey completely valid. Thanks for taking the time to respond! Always like learning new tricks by watching videos like these.

It is a simple dewalt pouch, nothing special. I linked it in the description if you want to examine it more closely. Most of my staff prefer much bigger ones.

Yes, I said it was not to code right?

Hmm, they might have if the rack was a bit more shallow. As it was, the client asked to just get rid of them. I was as surprised as anyone at that, but it looks okay in the end.

@@tciproductionsThanks for the reply, yes I thought the rack looked about an inch too proud to get them back on.

Good point, I always forget to narrate something important. The white/grey cat5 cables I didn't remove will be made dead by the IT consultant when he cuts it away from the faceplate and it will become the pull cable for the next person, much as the dead wires were mine for some of the plates.

I actually had a bunch with me, but threaded rods were few in number and on a wire hanger for the ceiling grid the ones I had tend to just slide down anyway, so I saved them for another job. An excellent mention!

Got my manual driver in Japan, I love it so I bought like 20. They are hard to find, but try ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/285147825773?hash=item426422866d:g:saEAAOSwkQRk02N~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4KD2OJBMY5C45DiFux8JYgCDXls66knIgTNlk3f3X%2F2xd5kD%2Fa4CzCwlFs9l4txukBBrYI%2FE3vjZZBeDsW4q%2F%2F79jIZvlXYbdep%2BKm9Asq0FjwWVRE8Wv79mzY6B0GBBL%2F28CbPrkg9KH5JFyZCK9XlboW1OmSXYWKFVGhCz5GAhnIO3cP%2BxeGK4S8lqqQJop%2FPNtTdI%2BPU2CmF%2BAja%2FH%2B4GBYjkcjS01Gdt%2FDINmNHmG%2FMRBsM3H5OchMe1G3JcvXZDNZJDaj6GPGI%2F%2BcmrUAyVG8A5TDbf4wfWFXLaeZvW%7Ctkp%3ABFBM_tOU3sBi My toolbag, and its contents: Bag - amzn.to/3QMyV4m Punch tool - amzn.to/3DYWoaW Crimper from vid - amzn.to/3P2KanS
A better crimper - amzn.to/3shOOFS Construction Pen - amzn.to/45dOg2m DeWalt Jab Saw - amzn.to/3O8ec9T Low Voltage Cutout - amzn.to/3pELzXP Voltage Sensor (Always-on version) - amzn.to/3LUrO5W Tape Measure - amzn.to/3QHYEea Cordless Screw Driver - amzn.to/3nF48KP All in One Crimp Tool - amzn.to/3KZn8ez Needle Nose - amzn.to/3slXhYs USB C Flashlight - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RZ9SG8Q/

Open frames are almost all cons, I guess if I were charitable I would say they are cheaper and they are smaller so maybe they fit in a spot you couldn't use the big brother, but overall I don't really like them. It just happens that is what we were able to talk them into. I have forthcoming vids where you will see a full cabinet.

It is a firestop grommet, pretty common in any hardware store, but that one is made by a company called STI: www.google.com/search?q=sti+firestop+grommet

@@tciproductions thanks.

They are pretty common in various hardware stores, but online you can get them from Discount Low Voltage.

Sure its this one: amzn.to/3P2DPZG

There was an existing cat6 in that case, it was a recent addition to their office. I just cut the tip and made it ready for the newer AP that would be installed.

I used one of these fellas: www.discount-low-voltage.com/rfg2-ez-path-firestop-grommit-kit