I'll be honest, I bought bulb B for my car thinking since there are not that many LED chips it shouldn't get too hot. BOY WAS I WRONG THE WHOLE TIME. I will definitely remove them and buy different design. Thank you for this helpful video you basically saved my car from getting burned.
I went for Osram "Premium" LEDriving BAU15s for my Octavia mk3 and those are working just fine (the ones with the metal surroundings). Those aren't brighter than stock incandescents, but look crispier and don't give any error messages since those have been coded to be LEDs. 😊 Of course those still could perform better and most of all - be cheaper...
I will be getting the Philips for my rear indicators that have a reflector housing. The reason the big brands went for indirect light is that they know this is going to be used as a replacement part for halogen reflector housings and the fact that the brightness from the regular bulb is already good enough, any more and it becomes blinding and distracting to the people sitting behind you in a turning lane. I simply want the crisp blinking that LEDs give but not to blind the person behind me and distract them, don’t need them rear ending me bc they’re not focussed. Plus those two bulbs do the best in the temperature/overheating test and I want my indicator bulbs to be reliable, since if they fail I won’t know and that would cause big trouble on the road.
@@User-cb4jm I just installed LED J, and before fitting them I did a Lux measurement of my incandescent bulbs as well. My incandescent indicator bulbs, where 50lux at 1.5m and these LED Bulbs 130lux at the same distance. So almost 3x times as bright. The reason I decided to go for bulb J: it's only € 6 for a pair, and based on how they do in my headlights. I might be able to run down, which LED indicator bulb would not be to bright. Actually I think LED M might come closet to it.
I purchased 4x F because of this video. Thanks. Edit: I've now had them installed for months, and they're working perfectly. One thing to note tho, they're significantly brighter, like really.
Hi Sergiu! Thanks for your videos: like so much how do you dig into technical details. I wanna to share with you some of my experience dealing with LEDs: found that in automotive/motorcycle applications most of these low-power (watts) bulbs are rated/advertised for 12V, and when stressed for some time with the usual 12-14.5V involved in battery-powered circuits they starts to fail after few months (flashing, burned chips). So I think would be useful if you include on your test pool a check for the presence of IC voltage regulators embedded on the LED bulb, providing a protection against voltage variations. Don´t hesitate to contact me if you need further information on this aspect and the brands I´ve found they included a voltage regulator on it´s designs; in some cases they are rated for 12-24VDC with a constant power output.
Thank you! I ended up getting bulb E based off this video, as it sounded exactly like I wanted - great light spread and noticably brighter than halogen - and it was indeed! Sadly mine only lasted 4.5 months but they were only £2.50 each, so it's worth repeatedly buying them and at the end of the year only having spent the same as more expensive bulbs (but with less performance).
I cant understand why good quality LEDs are not legal, they are better than Standard bulbs and last longer. But Osram and Philips must improve their LEDs. This are European rules need to be changed...
No lights at all are actually illegal. It is the amount of light (Lumen) that needs to be correct. For this, the manufacturer needs an approval license to sell it for legal use.
I like the vibration test. The bass from my two 12" subwoofers destroy my bulbs. It cracks solder joints. I've had to fix/replace many LEDs in the rear due to my stereo. 😁
Vibration test is great for those who want to use them in motorcycles, especially Harley’s ! The quick conclusion keep your $1 incandescent as they still work better than leds.
It would have been nice to see a dual filament function tested. Many cars have their indicators double as parking lights and so much like a brake light, they need good contrast between the high and low modes in order to be visible when signaling.
All the chinese bulbs are rubbish. If these tests don't prove that firmly enough, just look at the silly brand names, ridiculous shapes and sizes, and absolutely fake materials. Just as an example I use only Philips and Osram LEDs on my car, keeping the turn signals, headlights and left/right stop lights halogen (these I tried to convert and red Osram LEDs did give great colour behind the lens, but CANbus said "no"...)
I run osram/Sylvania zevo bulbs on my vehicles one vehicle has had them now going on 6 years with 0 issues, way brighter then stock bulbs in free-form reflectors and housings ware the bulbs go in on an angle the zevo is way better then the other osram led you tested
The LED F is from auxito. I run those as 7440. For 24 watts and 1600 lumens, it’s one of the best and brightest turn signal lights ever. Very handy and increase safety. Huge day and especially night difference. 🔥🔥🙏🏼🙏🏼
Salut fa un video despre xenon to led, sunt enorm de multe leduri pentru masina care ar trebui sa fie plug and play de ex ds1 xenon sau altele multumesc . Faci o treaba extraordinara bravo si salutari din olanda 😉
Following your recommendation I purchased the winning bulb F. It's sadly a big disappointment. In my 2007 Citroen C5 Break they didn't even go on, when installed in the front lights, and we're causing hyperflashing. Need to send them back now, 'cause they're simply useless for me.
Hey Sergiu, it´s really nice work with these bulbs and such but i wanna ask you if you will compare in some time (maybe not in plan) xenon bulbs Osram Night Breaker laser vs Osram cool blue intense next generation. However thanks for your work 🙂
Sergiu could you test led light bars next ? I know theres a variation between them but could you test light pattern, brightness and temperature as well as wattage ?
Is it possible to check if a bulb is compatible with your car without purchasing it first? e.g. it won't blink fast (for whatever reason that happens.. I guess it is because of the lower power consumption in comparison to a 'normal' bulb)
I ordered the LED F instead of the Philips LED turn signal bulbs I originally thought of buying, thank you for making these videos so the we don't have to waste our money and swim in the shit so to speak.
Your LED crash-tests are just awsome. I get a question. In the "indicator lights test", the incandescent bulb get 109/102 lux. But in the "resversing lights test", only 53 lux. Why such a difference when it’s the same filament (Osram 21W) ?
My car uses 3457 amber LED as both parking light and turn signal. It would be interesting to see the difference in light output between these two modes. I bought sylvannia LED bulbs with osram chips, and the light output difference between the parking light mode and turn signal mode so minor you cannot tell the if the turn signal is flashing at night when the parking light is on. So I am forced to stick with halogen bulbs for now.
Bine te-am gasit domnule Inginer! Hai si cu un video cu curele de accesorii si distriutie si lanturi de distributie sa ne dai niste pareri! despre conti, gatesc,dayco,bosch etc :)
I don't like the sharp blinking of LED, the pulsing effect of halogen is much more visible and attracting attention. With stop lights though it is completely the opposite, but I still haven't found out how to get around CANbus errors in a good way. Can resistors be mounted on the stoplight fuses, instead on the wiring?
That's a great point and I should have mentioned it in the video. Sometimes it's really frustrating sitting behind someone at the stop light with their ultra bright LED flashing in your eyes... The key is to pick an LED which is close in brightness to the incandescent bulb, not the brightest one.
Some of the led bulbs doesn’t have to be too bright. U can get a nice high quality led bulbs. Which I can recommend Sylvania zevo/ Osram LEDriving, and xenon depot - XTR C series led bulbs. They are not the brightest but they have a sense of amount of extra light above and beyond than incandescent bulbs.
amber/yellow LED using in indicator light is not constantly lighting so make no sense to test it this way. I mean we can test robustness but temperature should be measured during blinking test. Like 10 minutes blinking what correspond to stay longer time on emergency lights.
Nice video! None of them are really satisfactory in my opinion as they are too bright or too large. Still looking for nice rear indicators. Installed lamp M before on my Seat Leon 5F front indicators and it does not give me canbus error and shines great. Around the same output as original but way better looking and a bit more bright.
There’s a couple of led bulbs that are faulty or couple hairs brighter than stock that will not be blinding. Which sylvania zevo or Osram LEDriving and Xenon depot - XTR C series
@@wesleyvelroij4837if u don’t want to deal with hyperflash and u want a pure plug and play, look up Lasfit,GTR-Lighting, Morimoto, and Auxito. Those brands have led bulbs with a built in resistors.
@@toyotabronywould you recommend what led indicator bulb that's just as bright as the original or maybe just a little brighter with good quality and longevity? Thanks in advance
Oh yes there is. U just gotta find the right reputable brand. Like for example. Lasfit,Auxito,Auxbeam,Sylvania zevo/Osram, Philips extreme ultinon, Morimoto,GTR-Lighting,Xenon Depot,VLED’s micro evolution, and Boslla. Those u will easily find what ur lookin for. Ur welcome
No, it's correct. Quality engineering is the discipline of engineering concerned with the principles and practice of product and service quality assurance and control. That's my job.
From my experience, the point of high wattage LED is to imitate the resistant of an incandescent bulb. But, when you continuously blinking them around 3-4 mins, the bulb hotter and the resistance goes down (Ambience Temp around 30 C, Humidity around 90%RH) leads to hyperflashing. When I choose LED, this is one of my criteria. I've also test that large aluminum body for a heat sink though but it doesn't last longer than 4 mins. Now, I've got the active cooling bulb (not the one you test) and I test it around 20mins and it's fine. I recommend you to test this topic for next time.
Hyper flashing is one thing but most important is that the bulb won't turned itself off due to overheat. There was once in an accident and the bulb failed due to overheat. Been using the led bulb I tested above close to a year and its still working well. Perhaps if the test could include if they hyper flash or turned off overtime would be great.
Excellent. Definitely my favorite test. This packs a lot of performance into a short run time. LED K is my choice. On my wishlist at Amazon too. Light output is overwhelming while also covering a wider area to truly fill the reflector in the daytime. I need that in clear turn signals which can washout incandescent bulbs in the sun. Not a fan of LED A because of the solid all metal top emitting no light from the tip, where it's needed in the blinding tropical sun. This test is the best of it's kind. Bravo Sergiu !
Interesting results. Bulb E was Bulb R in the reverse light test. It handled most of the tests back then. Been using them as reverse lights for about a year now. No issues whatsoever.
@@JhonatanPinzonsx I had bulb E and they lasted about 4.5 months and all of a sudden both of them virtually died - only a few of the LEDs are working so it's practically doing nothing now. But the brightness was brilliant!
I'm also a quality engineer and appreciate the thorough objective testing. In my own experience, the Sylvania ZEVO bulbs in the US (It should be the same as OSRAM Premium) has higher output then the standard Sylvania/OSRAM LED bulbs. The ZEVO/Premium bulbs have a higher specified power and a metal heatsink to help dissipate heat. It would be nice to see both the standard and higher power OSRAM bulbs included in future tests.
I've bought some ZEVO indicator LEDs for my car, they pale in comparison to the old philips xtreme vision Leds, the Philips are twice as bright as incandescent bulbs, while the Zevo's can't reach incandescent level of brightness. (although they come very close) They are reliable though, I've had this set for more than 6 years, and they still work fine!
"canbus module" or "canbus compatible" = I very much suspect this is just a high wattage resistor simulating a filament bulb. Cost of such a resistor; +/- 0.5$ It defeats the purpose; low power consumption with an LED and then adding a high power resistor...!! :-(
It's possible. I really want to take one apart and see what's inside, but I'm planning on testing a bunch more to see which is better. So I had save these for future projects.
@@SergiuGabor OK, looking forward to that destructive test :-) Otherwise; Dear Sergiu, thanks for your nice channel + video's and friendly style and communication. Cheers from Belgium!
I'm using the E bulb for more than 1 year in all 4 corners of my car. So far is doing a good job, far better light output in my case, no warning light, no flickering and the glass is still over the LED's.
Philips and Osram were the best in brake lights, but the worst in indicator lights... I can confirm, my red Osrams are perfect in brake lights of Fabia, but yellows are horrible in indicators....
I have to agree. If only they increase the wattage a bit more about 3.2 watts per bulb. And put a bubble on the amber led chips for more brightness. These two sided led are really buy and try. Especially for led Amber turn signals, and it truly depends on ur reflector style application.
Thank you for this video. Do you plan to test Philips Ultinon Pro9000 H7 led? It seems most interesting althou also very expensive new and easy to install led bulb.
After watching this video I decided to stick with the Philips SilverVision incandescent: 1. they look stylish (hardly any egg-yolk look left) 2. they are slightly brighter than normal orange bulbs 3. they have a great longevity, not only for the filament, but also there is no yellow coating that dries out and crumbles away over the years. 🤓
The effort you have gone to make this video is amazing, it's as good as a video made by someone who has millions of subscribers and makes tonnes of money from it. You deserve more for the effort your putting in!
I got the GTR2’s from Headlights Revolution replacing all the incandescent indicator, rear position/brake, and reverse bulbs. The GTR2’s are way stronger bulbs than any halogen ever was. A bit expensive but well worth the money spent. I have no regrets.
