Have a mint M7 with a Noctilux 0.95 lens that I bought in 2004 or so. I’ve never used it but your video has inspired me to load it up with some Ilford b&w film and try it out. Thanks for the inspiration.
Great video, thanks for putting it up mate...bought my first Leica (an M6) a couple of months ago...great camera...had the batteries go flat for the first time the other day, happy I could still keep shooting...got a Zeiss 35mm 2.0 with it which is awesome, and just got a Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM lens for it off eBay for $160 and its a cracking lens too...well worth checking out
Great video, Coop. Glad you found something that works well for you. I love my M6 TTL, though I do sometimes wish I had aperture priority mode. Cheers!
Andre Domingues thanks for your kind words, yeh if I had of found an M6 ttl I prob would have bought that over the m7, but I just got lucky with the price
I've got a chrome M7 as well. An older model around 2002 I believe? Has the grippy pins that makes changing rolls a little tricky and the older less flare-resistant finder, but still a great camera. I came from the Minolta CLE which is an amazing camera in its own right.
The M7 is beautiful, the only reason I never bought one was due to the camera relying so much on power. My M6 TTL ticks all the boxes for me so that was my choice. Beautiful lens too, I have the f2 version and absolutely love it :) Love your channel dude!
Just an FYI, the shutter dial on the M6 TTL version is the same size as the M7. Your review is talking about the earlier "classic" version. Nice video btw.
I used to own the Leica M7 I also had the motor drive. Nice camera. I did get sick of buying batteries for the camera. Which never seem to last more than a month.
Nice review Cooper. Good to see someone else using this model! I shoot Tri-X on a used M7 most of the time and develop and scan at home. Beautiful camera and film. I have started to get myself off auto shutter and train myself to meter manually after a year and a half of relying on AE lock. It's more mental work obviously but just like shooting film is much more satisfying once you get a hang of it. I really would like to own my own brand new MP in the future.
hey mate just discovered your channel today as been researching m6 or m7... to discover you're also from perth and got this from PRA for 24 is crazy as i only just called them today enquiring if any M6's in stock! anyways... great vid mate.. hope to join ya soon
I like that you keep it real coop. Cheers for the great sharing and look forward to many more. I shoot M6 and and develop too. I had also been looking at the M7 so was glad to hear your feedback. I may leave the M7 until a deal comes along too ha. Cheers
On loading the m7 is there tension on the rewinding wheel also does the rewind wheel turn on advancing the film to your next shot. Thanks in advance for your help. Michael
Great review, I live in Perth too, so on the way to see that same Leica boutique and get the M7. Me like you just want my Leica. I use Contax G2, Nikon F5, Bronica Etrsi, Nikon D850 But for some reason when you grab the Leica it all just comes together, seriously. I had the M10 for a day offer and although I love film, the results were just brilliant, my inner photographer came right out! There is something very intangible about a Leica that is just very very good. And if it makes better pictures then who cares if it is all myth and legend, you have better pictures! Bit like driving an old Porsche or 70’s Aussie V8, slower than a Hyundai N series, but better! There is a lot to be said for “legend”.
Brett Johnson hey man just a heads up those guys where I bought it from don’t sell Leica cameras anymore. They might have some second hand stuff but not sure
@@shootswithcoops Thx mate, ahhhh, I remember the other place that was the Leica Botique in Murray Street? I was thinking Camera Electronic. Or if no second hand ones in Perth Yodabashi, may be worth a trip to Tokyo, or maybe FeeBay
The M5 has best light-meter-display of any of the Ms. Like the M3, with the M5 you can shoot at any speed between the clicks and nail your exposure that way. And I personally really like that it’s bigger. I find the other Ms a bit too slim to hold comfortably for long exposures, like 1/8th or 1/2 seconds. And the shutter-speed-dial laps over the edge of the camera with the shutter-button on top. It’s really the best M for people with big hands. But damn what a deal on the M7!!
nice one! I do own the M6 beacuse of the price and because of the non electronic mechanismn which should last longer then the m7. But for film shooting, the m7 is clearly the better camera
And the best thing about a M7 is.... it is still made. That means you can get new ones and you can get repairs with no special problems if parts are needed.
If Leica's are your thing and aperture priority mode is a requirement, the M7 is an obvious choice (though for similar money these days you could own both a M6 and a Minolta CLE). The M6 TTL remains my top choice out of all the Leica M film cameras made thus far. Ironically, a few of the things the M6 TTL has in common with the M7 are key to this. Namely, the larger sized shutter speed dial rotating in alignment with the light-meter display, as well as the metering display itself with the two arrows and center dot. (I also prefer the rewind crank design shared among the M4, M6, M6 TTL and M7.)
I think I'm still going for the M6 as I feel it would fit me a bit more, but I appreciate the different viewpoints. Thank you for such a quality video man!
I have an M7 and have used it for 5 years now. Occasionally, when I turn it on the film speed reading goes all over the place and it throws the meter out. It's a common issue on these cameras. I read numerous views on what is going on. What I have found works for me is just running my fingers over the dx reader contacts when changing the film over. I haven't had a problem since. It seems to me that the microswitches get stuck, creating the problem.
that comment was right, only Leaf shutter lenses can sync at any speed (1/500th) because in focal plane shutters (yes range_finders are FOCAL PLANE) the second blade starts moving after the exposure starts ; at faster speeds (>1/250) and obstructs the image making a rectangular bar as the flash fires, leaf shutters open like the aperture ring ( full open, FLASH!!, CLOSE) and a full image all the time until closure. by the way what lens is on the camera? Importantly : you missed out the AUTO spool feature on this and the M 6, and all later generation film "m's"; that is NO spool to remove for film loading!!, the leader just gets fed between two fingers of the auto_spool.( and these models also accept a "power" advance unit)- not winder, as they only advance single frames.
@@Richardsumilang Yeah, I have also thought about the mp several times, something is just not right for me. It feels a bit lifeless compared to the older m models. I might end up with one one day anyway lol. The M-A is interesting but it bothers me a bit that they reused the mp body and that it still has the MP battery hole (just covered)
I see this video has been around for a bit although I just came across it today. I have had all manner of cameras, and Leicas, over many years but not an M7. The Aperture Priority AE and three dot metering indication does seem a useful advantage despite the disadvantage of the all electronic shutter. If film were still my primary capture medium, it would be an advantage that I would want. But the digital models are my primary cameras now and I'm happy to continue with the M4-2 I've owned for the past 12-13 years or so as it does the job I ask of it as well as I could want.
Great video. I enjoyed it, but why are you choosing film over digital? Do you develop and print your shots - color shots - yourself? Otherwise, I don't see how you can justify shooting (color) film.
Thanks man, I develop both colour and black and white. The whole process is just much more enjoyable for me, start to finish. I still love ditgal and use it for work jobs all the time. But shooting film, not seeing the shot right away, then going home and developing it, and pulling the film out of the tank is just so enjoyable, I fee so much more connected to each shot compared to digital
I understand. I loved shooting film, but, eventually, I just couldn't justify the expense of having someone else - a local drugstore - develop and print my film.
Yeah for sure, if I didnt develop myself it would cost waaaaaaay too much, some of the places here (in Perth) charge $30aud for 1 roll of black and white
I had the M7 and sold it when the battery died mid photoshoot the 3rd time. It is easy to change the battery but interrupts your flow. M6TTL Does not need battery to shoot.
one more question.. :D i'm not used to these types of light meters.. so in this video you showed, one arrow on the left and one circle in the middle. did that mean it was under exposed? is there NO arrows and only a circle/dot when it's correctly exposed or is it both arrows and the dot ... all three showing when you're correctly exposed? :)
If your perfectly exposed then yes, just the Red center dot will illuminate, but even if the arrow/s and dot a both illuminated your exposure will still be pretty good
Shootswithcoops Okay. Cool. Thanks. Im buying an m7 tomorrow. So excited and terrified to make a lot of mistakes 😄 anything about the m7 specific you've come to notice since this video, that is important to take notice of? ✌🏼
Nothing specific to the M7, just usual film camera checks, cycle through the shutter speeds and make sure the fire correctly, and just test the light meter. But I'm sure you'll be fine, leica users always tend to really look after there cameras
Anyone that wants to use leica M lenses should just get a Voigtlander Bessa, bigger viewfinder (1:1), cheaper, possibly more frame lines, and it also has aperture priority.
and built like a toy. Speaking from someone who bought the R4M brand new and owned for over two years, it felt like a Canon in terms of build quality and the light meter stops working once you get below 5 degree celcius, given its pretty cold my MP worked just fine in -10 with Tokyo humidity.
Fair enough, Contax G series then, the viewfinder corrects for paralax and it has auto focus, that will meet the needs for anyone who wants a rangefinder camera. You can't use leica lenses you might say, but just recently I've come to an unfortunate conclusion, from what I've been seeing lately from my scans, there's no need for leica quality lenses with film, most lenses are able to resolve more detail than the film can, or perhaps it's the scanner that fails to resolve the detail (one of the newer epsons, I don't own it, can't afford one), but anything with reasonable iso, I'm not thinking this is the case. And if anyone is crazy enough for drum scans, they might as well buy a digital camera. I'm sad to say I'm really wanting a digital camera for anything other than getting the aesthetic from b&w film. Expensive film cameras just don't make sense. And a maximum shutter speed of 1/1000 on the leica, it's a joke, it truly is a relic.
I absolutely agree with with you on Leica lenses, a zeiss with m mount is just as good if not better than Leica in same specs for fraction of the price, especially when shot with film, the 35 1.4 from zeiss blows the summilux away. But in terms of the body I still think Leica is the only choice for my needs, despite it's slow shutter speed and ridiculous curtain burn issues, I simply need a reliable full manual rangefinder with a good light meter, and no one's offering it, Voigtlander did thats why I tried it, it sucked (sold it and actually earned money from that deal lol). The G series deosnt scratch it for me with the electronics, its not even considered, for me the Leica is the only choice, I truly hope there are more brands offering so Leica can't price them as ridiculously as they do now, but no one is, so its either Leica or nothing for me, and considering their rich heritage and build quality I truly see the MP as a lifetime investment. (fun fact the mp actually raised value over 1000 USD since I bought it less than two years ago lol, I can still sell it higher than what I bought it for brand new. WTF)
What's up with the Contax G? I've never used one I just heard they were decent. And just looking at the quality from macro lens 'scans' for film, looks like you can get a lot more out of film that way, but then, if i could afford a digital camera i'd get better colour images just using it instead so kind of defeats the object. Medium format though, my cheap 1950's geuss the focus type of camera, it's almost at digital level quality in the images even with a flatbed scan, I think I'm going to start using my Nikon 35 mm as a light meter from now on.
Contax G is a true electronic camera, which are prone to breaking, just like all electronics, and the Gs are well known for this issue considering their age, its not a reliable camera for me, plus I hate autofocus in rangefinders, you'll never know if the camera is working properly and focused where you want it to be, every shot is a gamble, though the odds are high you win, there can and will have accidents. If you're shoot film because of image quality you're on the wrong boat, my fuji 690 which shoots the largest of medium format films is no match to an a7r3 in all photographic terms, except its fun to use unlike the sony. Film will not provide you with superior quality nowadays by any means, only better experience.
I get paying a premium for a well crafted piece of equipment. What I will never understand is paying an additional premium for features even entry level cameras of other brands have offered since the disco era.
had all M, 20 in fact, love the M4-2 then the Ma and the best one, the M7....hate M6, M6j, M3....just try M7 and you will understand how it is the best one.
Yes and no. The M7 supports HSS at 1/250s, 1/500s and 1/1000s of a second in manual not TTL, but just with some specific Metz gear. Otherwise you are right.
Nice vid!I also went over the M7. The dial is much better then on the M6 classic. And that Auto exposure can be very convenient at times. Battery life has not been an issue for me ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TN7p7Y4jjsk.html
Sadly, the Erwin Puts page no longer works, but here is more information about the flare issue and how to fix it or work around it. www.nemeng.com/leica/020b.shtml
I see/hear this a lot in videos. "the camera has aperture priority mode, but I shoot in manual mode off course." So the f**k what! Your settings are still based on the reading of an internal or external light meter. You are not doing the job. Can someone explain to me, what makes that more "hardcore", then shooting aperture mode? I mean, if you are using the zone system and/or your experience to set your exposure, that would be hardcore. When I say "you", I mean you in general.
What kind of plonker buys an expensive Leica body and then puts a cheap lens on it? Whole point of Leicas is to buy into the lens system. Some folks just want to swagger and pretend. Buy a good lens first, then a body. The lens will last for ever.
Never trust a Leica review from someone who puts a cheapo lens on it! What's the point? Just want to show off but not concerned with real quality images. You would have been better off sticking with the M6 and spending the extra on a proper Leica lens.
