Please watch: "ZIMALETA MOTORS ONLINE STORE Grand Opening Today Mercedes Sprinter Parts Please Check it out Guys" • Video -~- Let’s Try to Figure out why is This T1N Mercedes Sprinter Shut Off While Driving and won’t start
I'm looking forward to part 3 Zimaleta. I know you'll get to the bottom of it. I have learned a lot of trouble shooting tips from watching your videos. Great job, sorry the Sprinter isn't working yet, but I know you will keep at it.
It will not start without a proper crank signal. Replace crank sensor with OEM part only. Follow wires all the way to the ECM and inspect for damage. It isn't getting fuel because the ECM won't let it have fuel without a proper crank signal. You can even use jumper wires to provide an alternate path from one end to the other of the crank sensor to rule out the wires themselves. I would not worry about the "Uneven sound of compression". If you spin an engine by hand, you will notice the force required is not linear, it gets easier and then harder as the piston compresses air.
Hey Serg, Thanks for another video. I know you said the TCM is missing .This also sounds like when someone tried to steal a radio out of one of my co-workers van. They got some code from dealer and reset it with a new radio, then it started fine. Good luck, keep us informed.
+Mason Nesson you know the Mercedes Tech That I was speaking to from U.K. He had been giving me some good advice, like, not to pay attention to the crank shaft code, because of excessive cranking that crank shaft code will come on, and now I can focus on the real problem, now that I ruled out some problems, what's left is To check the Fuel rail / sensor seal and High pressure Fuel Pump, this will be interesting especially if we get it started, thanks for watching and all you comments and support
I know this was over a year ago, but I know you, and others read the comments. U0423, for me, was the temperature sensor under the front bumper. If you are not getting an outside temperature in the gauge cluster, you are getting two dashed lines, then the sensor is not working. Or, in my case, it was completely missing. Mercedes uses the exterior temperature to factor into it’s programming. Replacing it will make that code go away. $23 part and 5 minutes.
Thanks you right actually, but the problem is it’s wrong type of fuel all together lol, so when I have time I need to drop the fuel tank replace fuel and start it again
I just changed the egr, it solved the problem, but now I have to start the van twice before hitting the road, I don't shut the van when I do deliveries just to avoid the problem. So I'm just gone keep doing that, because here in buffalo ny, no one knows a lot about sprinters but the dealer, I don't want to retake it the Mercedes dealer, their prices is ridiculous.
Smart move, sometimes cleaning EGR solves the problem but sometimes it does not, Soon I will do a Video on EGR Emulator, it is not EGR delete but I will call it EGR Delete, because in a way that’s what it does it tricks the computer into thinking EGR is working but it’s really always staying closed which is much better for the engine and you don’t need to remove EGR to do it, basically it’s electrical trick, but before I make this video I will make allot of other videos because, I focus on what needs to be done right now and go with the natural flow
+Mason Nesson your awesome thank you so much! I want to upload everyday, but it's hard to keep up with everything, but I do have another video ready, I will try uploading today
So now what I do, i start up the engin twice and the van doesn't choke anymore it runs fine. But if i start it up once and drive it, it gets clogged and then smoke comes once I hit the accelerator, and then it goes way. I know its weird, but I love my sprinter I want to keep it.
When you say choke what do you mean, because I had similar problem when turbo gains started failing it would drive good then at the light it the turbo vains would close and I start driving and the van was chocking, barely moving and if I hit gas hard it would even stall out, but if I flutter the gas paddle then it opened back up and would drive normal till I come to a stop, this was a turbo problem, I replaced the turbo problem solved. EGR will do something similar, EGR opens and closes and if it stays open then you get a limp mode, it would drive very slow and not go above 3k RPMs, turbo did sand thing RPMs can’t go above 3k and it would throw a code Turbo Underboost
I have a 2003 sprinter van. I have had the fuel pump injectors fuel filter replaced within the past 10,000 miles. I was trying to find why it wouldn’t start At times. It turned out to be the Crank sensor. That was a very expensive crank sensor. Recently when I’m driving the engine will just stop performing just stops like I’ve taken my foot off the throttle. If I don’t move my foot at all it will just continue to slow down as if I’ve taken my foot off the throttle. The slightest movement of my foot power resumes. It doesn’t go into limp mode. This happens just randomly. It does happen each time I drive it. I don’t know what it could be.The cruise control won’t work again until I stop and turn the engine off and started back up. It always has full power when it resumes. It just takes a slight movement of my foot on the throttle to make it resume either accel or decel. This has been going on for about a month. I’ve changed the fuel filter and cleaned the EGR. It doesn’t happen when I accelerate hard. It’s when I maintain speed with light pressure on the throttle but it will continue to decelerate until I move the throttle slightly. It doesn’t happen when I accelerate hard. It’s when I maintain a speed with light pressure on the throttle. When it cuts out it will decelerate until I move the throttle a little bit. Sometimes it will do this several times in a row until I start driving harder. When I cruise that light throttle is there happens. Home out of ideas. Do you have any? I’m not sure what will happen if I allow it to slow down to a stop without moving my foot. I wanted to try that but I haven’t been in a traffic situation to allow for it. That’s gonna be my next thing to do to see if the engine actually stays running at an idle when I stop or of the engine actually dies. .
I replaced my sensor on top of the motor. I did not use an OEM part as I could not see how that I could spend 179.00 for an aftermarket part for 19.95. It runs great.
Hi mate!! Earth strap locations mate, I have my sprinter back together again but have bad crank I think I’ve left a strap off but can’t remember where I remember one looking like a braided tinsel lead Where are they located/ bolted to ?
I have a 06 frightliner 80 thousand miles, bought it from a company who only drove almost 9000 miles since 2015, its clean van but I noticed it having chocking issurme after staring it up and while im driving it driving it, I have to hit the accelerator hard for the van to be released with dark soot smoke coming from the muffler. Please I need help
Hey there brilliant videos. I had fuel leak reported at MOT (i am uk) on inspection under top engine cover i find BLACK DEATH! Cleaned all that replaced copper washers hooray fixed leak. Started fine went drive look again fuel Everywhere! Plastic connector on top of injectors all snapped in half, replaced with metal ones van starts everything good go drive 6-7 miles engine dies, starts 2-3 times enough to get to safe stop. EDC light came on like fuel empty (i done once before) filled filter no start, im thinking fuel pump? Any advice greatly appreciated. Also what is small electric motor on bulkhead (uk) righthand side has rubber hose in and out. Makes noise when ignition on and continues after shut off?
+Mason Nesson I sure will, BTW I replaced Electronic Ignition Switch, and I took apart the tumbler, and I actually fixed it, the 3 plastics inside came apart and I put them together correctly and now the key turns fine, but yes it can be anything at this point, so I will check everything I know to check and you will see me doing everything, and who knows I bet I will get some help from you guys and we can fix it together, one thing for sure I really want to know why it don't start
+Mason Nesson I will keep checking. BTW the Crankshaft sensor and wire looks fine, and a spoiler alert lol, in this video I still don't know that the TCM is missing/stolen
Hey man I'm having a simular issue with my 2004 sprinter. It starts and runs for a couple minutes and then just dies on its own. I can hear the fuel pump working and I replaced the fuel filter but I am still getting this issue. I got a code for a low fuel pressure in the rail. I'm not sure what could be causing this.
you have a compression issue. you can hear it's very uneven. Sounds like it's out of timing or mechanical failure. you should do a compression check and leak down. This will tell you exactly what's wrong.
+Top Automotive Inc you right bro it does sound like it, but I have my hopes up, I think I can fix it. The last shop that had it told me they have done a compression test, but I don't believe them, how ever I will buy a compression test kit and try doing a compression test if all else fails
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING keep in mind anytime you have an engine that turns uneven you have a loss of compression in one or multiple cyl, this makes the engine spin fast for a sec due to less resistance on the cyl with no or very little compression.
+Sky Steppes I did not check fuses on camera but off camera I replaced Fuse panel, and tested the Old Fuse panel in the van that runs, Turns out it works fine, but I still need to cheek fuses under the seat, BTW The crank shaft sensor looks fine, but we are getting the code anyway because I keep cranking it with no start, I did not know this, but it's good we have smart people that watch this channel, and I actually get good advice myself, that I can test as I am always learning about the sprinter and sharing as much as I can, my channel is VLOG style, looking for the problem and it's funnier this way, I get to talk to you guys and hear feedback, instead of pretending to be someone I am not lol
My sprinter in the morning starts straight away, but once engine warms up the and you want to restart it, it won’t start it’ll give you a very hard time to do so .I thought glow plug issues so I change the glow plugs but still I have the same issue any idea what could be Stopping the engine to restart when engine warms up
Had the same problem a couple months ago. Turned out to be a bad camshaft sensor but the code I got was for crankshaft. Pull out your camshaft sensor and see if the bottom is cracked at all. If so it’ll still work to start up but after driving it gets covered in oil and leaks into the sensor and then won’t start. Could be a ton of other things but good luck
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING I had 3 injectors leaking, I replaced the copper seals and the cover gaskets too, I noticed the electrical connectors for the injectors were pretty brittle so I replaced them too, it fired right up and I took it for a test drive, it drove ok but one of my injector connections came lose, I drove it home and parked it, re attached the wire and asked my son to erase any codes and after that it wouldn’t even crank anymore...
I have a 2006 Sprinter 2.7 Dissel на холодную почти не заводится свечи накала новые модуль управления свечами накала новый все фильтры новые в чём подвох не пойму
It’s not running yet, but I did find something, it was Stale gas inside of the fuel filter, but I did not have time to get the proper fuel in to see if I can get it started
did you ever check the flywheel tooth? I think you need to fix the crack signal first b4 it can start.. you can check the sensor easely (needs 800-900 ohm) but the wheel might miss a tooth or it might have slack on the flywheel
My Vince has this error. You can help me decide that the fuel level is very low. Checked the tank. Every cargo, but the same problem remains. I did all the technology to see separately everything is fine
Looks like you need to watch lots of videos or read forums to find your problem, please do me a favor and explain everything what’s going on abs any codes as detailed as possible so I can help you more
Was running and out of no where shut off change.. fuel rail/ injectors/ pcm, ecu, but I think I just found the issue, it was either the fuel pump that's on the motor or one of those sensors that are connected to them
