Let's Paint Some Shell Impacts And Other Cool Effects! | Tiger 1 Gruppe Fehrmann | RFM 1/35 

Panzermeister Is your son?

@@capreoluscapreolus3127 He's my uncle

Hey night shift, I got a neat little challenge for you, just to throw in the list of stuff but since you like scratchbuilding my challenge/idea is to take the chassis of a tank and get an at model gun/artillery kit and design your own self propelled gun from scratch

@@NightShiftScaleModels 😧

@@calvinhuddleston576 so like a sci-fi thing

I think though that the numbering was red with white bordering Not green Take a model of this tank with red lettering and desaturate. Looks just like the ww2 photo

yey 😅

She looks like she was rode hard and put away wet! Just like all combat vehicles did back in the day!

@@cudathehawgjetfixer7520 I feel like there is a "your mama" joke somewhere around here...

Credits will do fine... No, they won't!

Night Shift 😂

Hehe, even though in this case it would be okay, because those extinguishers had metal placards, not just a random sticker :)

I think discord server for modelers is great idea.

@@jannowak9917 I second that!

From what I've heard and seen modelling Discord servers are even wilder than some 4chan imageboards, so I'm staying as far away from it as I can.

whats the point just use the comments

@@404killer I think it is mostly the ability to share your own work people are after... That would not work in the yt comment section :)

I hope you're at least healthy!

@@NightShiftScaleModels he's ded

@@TOXIC_BONES F

@@flipvdfluitketel867 h4e's de4d

@@TOXIC_BONES F

Germans used nickel or some other non-corrosive metal to weld. I have a spare track that was spot welded on a tank during the war and the weld is perfectly silver shiny while the track looks like ass.

@@AdamMann3D Didn't know that, we learn something new everyday :) For my welds I always spray the welds with zinc primer right after to stop the oxidation.

Doesn’t that depend somewhat on the welding process, the metals, filler rod composition, flux used if it’s an arc process and the general competency of the welder? I do agree that welds exposed to the atmosphere or water generally lose their shiny appearance quickly - my preferred colours for representing exposed weld beads are Tamiya’s metallic grey or dark iron, depending on how long I imagine the paint to have been missing. There’s also the tendency for rust to form along the sides of weld beads and in any pitting in the bead, which can happen incredibly quickly. And once started it tends to spread under the paint until all of a sudden a big patch of rust breaks through the paint or the paint flakes off wholesale and you realise you’ve got a serious corrosion problem. As I found out while starting to attempt to repair my elderly Land Rover’s chassis :-(. Mind you, some of those 20 year old weld beads were still incredibly tough and could resist a vigorously applied cold chisel despite the rust.

Poor German welders must have had the runs for years...

@@AdamMann3D Doing some digging around points towards the Germans using manual arc (“stick”) welding throughout the war. The electrodes/filler rods probably being a steel/nickel/? alloy, of which several varieties existed at the time. It’s possible they were using a quite high-grade stainless steel of some sort, though stainless is tricky to weld and not really ideal for armouring purposes. British examination of a Pz III apparently found some welds had problems, including voids, flux in the welds and welds cracking away from the plate they were supposed to be fused into. With hindsight the cracking sounds rather like a hydrogen embrittlement issue. That wasn't fully understood at the time and effective rods and processes to avoid it were very much in their infancy. Weld inspection wasn’t anything like as advanced as nowadays of course so the first indication of a failing or poor weld may have been when the armour came apart as a weld gave way after being hit by a solid APDS shot.. The Soviets seem to have regarded German welding as inferior to both Soviet and US late-war automatic submerged-arc welding, at least for welding armour. Which isn’t surprising as submerged arc would give much stronger welds in thick armour plate. Submerged arc isn’t really possible to do manually as it requires tight control over both the depth of the electrode in the weld and the speed the weld progresses at. Machine welding has the disadvantage of needing a complicated machine but the advantage of consistency once everything is working right, unlike a newly trained human welder. So the often repeated assertions that German welding was always really good and Soviet welding frequently poor may be just that - assertions.