This is stuff thats needed, clear accurate info with newer materials. I wish this info was available a couple years ago when I built up a strat, the finish is what took the longest to get it to where I could live with it.
Chris, thanks so much. I haven't had much luck with water based finishes but I now think I know why. I was wet-sanding and now know not to. Also, I don't think I've sprayed enough coats on. Thanks for such a detailed account. I'm going to try to follow your steps exactly.
The whole time I was watching this I was saying no thanks I will stick to my lacquer. then I saw the finish at the end and am rethinking. BTW I just picked up the same purple dye.
Standing water could reactivate a water-based clear coat that hasn't fully cured. Once it's fully cured, you can wet sand. However, I recommend dry sanding because it can be done after a week or two of curing. Otherwise, you need to wait up to 6-8 weeks for the cure to finish. Once the finish has fully cured, you can clean it with a damp cloth. Just don't let it sit in a bathtub full of water ;-)
These videos are incredibly helpful and informative. Can you talk about your spray setup a bit, in terms of safety precautions? I’m making the leap into building my own guitar and I want to make sure I set up a finishing station that is going to keep me safe. Do you need a dedicated spray booth for these types of finishes? Thanks! Subscribed :)
If you're only going to build one guitar, a spray booth really isn't necessary. I do recommend you wear a good respirator that is intended to block paint fumes since even water-based products aren't meant to be inhaled. Find a corner of your shop where you can spray. Put down a plastic sheet on the floor and hang a couple more from the ceiling so you won't get any overspray on the walls. A good HVLP spray system will reduce overspray a lot, but there will still be some to contend with. Also consider wearing a disposable painters jumpsuit, gloves and a headcover. If you plan to build more than just one guitar, a portable DIY spray booth may be in order.
Chris, Enjoyed the video. I am familiar with the Crystalac product that you used. Did you dilute the product at all? Are you aware that they make a guitar specific product called Britetone? Keep up the great work.
Hi Chris, I understand that you do not do wet sanding when sand between coats. But how do you eliminate dust and wood (coat) dust that is produced during sanding and almost sticked to surface without water???
Another excellent tutorial, Chris. Thank you! Could you post links to that dye and the crystal lac clear? What spray system and tip size are you using - looks like a turbine.
Im trying the CrystaLac Bright Tone clear gloss instrument finish. I keep having problems with fish eye. The process was Keda dye mixed with 93% isoprol alcohol, a seal coat of shellac, grain filled, then 3 more coats of shellac, level sand wipe down with water to remove all residue, let dry overnight, then spray on the Bright tone..... using a LVLP gun and my old craftsman oiless air compressor with water trap and also an inline filter at the gun.... Any suggestions????
You may not have a problem. I know many others who used it a while back did and complained to General Finishes. Nothing we could do fixed the problem, but that was over a year ago and they still are selling it. Customer feedback may have forced them to reformulate the product. If it works for you, let me know as I'd like to try it again. It was much cheaper than Crystalac.
