Thank you for that, I listened live and it answered the question I tried to ask yesterday. Great info, I always appreciate the scientific approach to data gathering.
I especially appreciate that you teach rational, critical thinking, Richard. Data and evidence is reality. Everything else is just a wild a$$ guess. Experience tells us what might help, data tells us what did help.
👍😁 as always Richard outstanding! I’m in the process of installing a cam. And I had read a couple of forms about advance retarding. And it came to me stop reading these and see if Richard Holdener has a video on it. Sure enough and of course your spot on. Every engine is different you don’t know until you try.
When you did the cam video on cam degrees I thought it would be about advancing or retarding your cam.I watched and enjoyed, now it is about cam degree ing.For a street car this is not going to make much difference but think checking to see if it’s positioned as the cam manufacturer recommended is good.I take your word as the holy grail as you always prove what you say.On a different note about LS heads I would like to see a test on the 317 head with a cam with either equal or more lift and duration on the intake.Another great test would be bigger intakes on that 317 head.I love the BTR cams and just saw their shaft mounted stock body system.Love your channel 😍always watch Chevy and mostly the Ls test!!
Advancing a wide lsa cam often looses tq because it opens the ex to soon during the power stroke, most trends are seen if you start close to the proper cam specs.
I have vvt deletes on my turbo Coyote. With a 4500 stall and stock 15 cams I found the engine didn't care that much where cam timing was around a general 110in/115ex. I did find more overlap made idle tuning a pain. I finally settled on 107in/117ex which is what MHS posts as their suggested cam timing for their "street strip turbo cam", they claim it helps spool faster. Car runs strong in the 4000-7000 range, perfect for a drag car.
This is a good video education. I have a DOHC 2.4L turbo 97 Dodge neon (engine from a Plymouth Breeze). I have adjustable cam shaft gears on it, but I've never adjusted them from zero. Having access to a Dyno is the way to go in this case to know if your cam adjustments are doing any good or bad.
Great topic! For breakfast with coffee and would have been more fun to play with timing for the first job of the day!!but the reality of a cheap modified car means I’m pulling out my fuel tank and pump’s Again aaargh
I think retarding the cam timing is better due to my past experience's with two sbc 350 motors and a dodge 318. These were bone stock with worn out timing chains, etc. Years back I had purchased a 2 barrel 350 from a 73 impala and put it in my 75 nova this was very late 80s. Nova had a 373 with an open carrier. That car from dead stop with no brake torquing would light up the rear right tire and not quit smoking it till it hit 3rd. I'd go through 2 tires a month on the passenger side. After a year and a half it slung a rod. I out ran a lot of healthy built 4 barrel sbc cars with it. When I tore it down the timing chain was so stretched I have no idea how it ran. I got a 77 Chevy Silverado that ran the same way and when I decided to put a new timing chain set in it, it ran like a stock 350. A bit later I had a dodge truck with a 318 that was bone stock and highly used and abused. It was the same way as my nova. Ran like a beast. Sold it to a guy that wanted it for the engine for his 70s duster. He cleaned it up and replaced the timing chain set and gaskets before installing it,it ran like a stock 318 after that. He told me the timing chain was worn slap out. I also know a guy that had a mild built nova and he swapped out the cam and timing chain set for the 3 way set. He advanced it during installing it and it just didn't run right. He tore it down and retarded the crankshaft gear, it ran like a raped ape. I have ran the 3 way in advanced position with a small cam in a stock 350 and it ran like a stock 350. I have yet to run anything with the 3 keyway set in the retard position but I am putting a stock flat top 454 in a truck here soon and am using an Elgin e1066p which I do plan on trying the retard position then.
Cam timing is only one part in a quad cam engine. From working with vh41 and vh45 and from what I can say one mother of a headache in testing is from the inlet ( inlet of air from the out side of the vehicle) vs (Speed of inlet air) vs (temp of air) vs (air temp even after mass of air increases) AND other factors. Yes more are there. Will make cam timing a major thing IF you want to make the best HP. This is why free valve units just make more all over the rev range. If I can open and close a valve in the best place without can mechanical means I would have that. Yes and have the best ECU to work that out but after seeing even changing air filter can do( racing engine ) I now understand why F1 engines or even NASCAR engine can make or brake a team.
I recently put together a 4ze1 turbo and it’s head had been so excessively milled that it was impossible to set the belt in the factory position and it ended up being 1 tooth out! and I’m not saying which way lol with boost it’s got power all the way to the limiter and surpasses expectations to say the least,it’s faster than a lot of vehicles that are regarded as “powerful”
Depends on several things. Is the cam correct according to the card? Is the sprocket/gear worn or the chain stretched? Are the lifters/cam worn? Have the valve seats/stems been cut? Have the heads been decked? How much preload do the lifters have when pumped up? If you're just lining up dots on a factory assembled junkyard engine and timing with spark, maybe not significant enough.
The answer is no I’ve seen you do it. I like 4 valve dual cam variable valve timing and vtec on each cam. On the conventional (pushrod) cam your locked in to this -if you move the intake lobe one way or the other the exhaust follows. Ultimately it takes testing. The more complex the more testing.
Yes, well, DOHC with VCT and 4 valves per cylinder can make great power and torque with the independant variable cam timing. However this comes with complexity. The GM LS series ate a simple design with a lot of engoneering design in them. Now cam selection can be a confusimg issue, and most cam companies are not much help. They sell cams with generally too wide LSA. Now with EFI a wider LSA keeps the O3 sensors happy, especially the throttle body style. Port and direct injection can delay injection until jist before yhe exhaudt valve closes so raw fuel does not go out the exhaust. Carburetted engines like the vintage are kind of stuck with what the platform came with. Now it comes down to what floats your boat and what you have. Personally for a daily driver, the new engines are great with the TICT, good low RPM torque, wiyh good power up in the RPM range. Cam timing can do the job of EGR to a point. For my street rod, I like simple.
@@richardholdener1727 I'm not trying to say absolute, you did catch I said usually. I think more so than not. If I missed a test I will gladly watch it.
wiki info, In 1970 a Nova could also be ordered with an LT-1 via a Central Office Production Order (COPO). Fifty of these were ordered by Don Yenko at Yenko Chevrolet and were converted into Yenko Deuces. Yenko also converted another 125 L65 Novas into LT-1 Deuces. Production numbers Camaro Corvette Nova (COPO) 1970 8,733 1,287* 52**** 1971 4,862 1,949** 1972 2,575 1,741***
Just want to ask, I've seen in other RU-vidrs 107 LSA that they applied on engines with 6k to 8k revs is perfect. That's for a V8. I have a single cylinder motorcycle that revs up to 15k rpm and I suspect the LSA is 116-120° I'm not sure, is it ok with high reving engines? Or there's a better setups?
first off-6K is very different than 8K rpm. There is no universal lsa that makes cams rev. what is the duration? What are the valve events? What is the LCA? Lots go into optimizing a cam profile
With a roots blower, in a street car. Which is better for power, (limited to 93 octane) low compression like 8:1 and more boost, or 10:1 with less boost?
I see most modern V8 pushrod cams are ground advanced. I have never understood this. No way can they know the optimum cam timing unless the company has tested the EXACT combination with same flow numbers and compression.
Brian Tooley? He says LSA isnt an issue. I see, but didnt Richard test this issue and found that LSA DOES make a difference on the same cam grind. Weird how an expert can miss the mark so bad
@@richardholdener1727 any thoughts as to why a big block chevy 427 with an 8-71 would run best at 62 degrees of timing? Do you have a tech line or email I can contact you with more specifics?
HELLO, i have a 406 pontiac that use to provide seat of the pants top end torque charge until camshaft lobe died. i did not know where cam was installed at. it had 155 psi comp static. a dif shop rebuilt engine and installed same cam . they degreed to where manuf. card wanted it. which calls for 6 degrees advanced. i have no seat of the pants top end charge. I will tear it apart to try to retard but what would you say would be a good amount ? "2 degrees doesn't seem enough" . oh and my current psi is 175-190.. crane 284h / 228/228/ .480/480 112 LSA ICL107(i believe) any ideas?
correct me i if am wrong , icl 107 , lsa 112 = 5 degrees advanced? sry said 6, my bad. i installed at icl 107. as chain stretches then it retards back to the 112 was my understanding why manufacturer asks for you to install advanced. so straight up would be 112 icl . i guess my question is, should i just try 112 icl. i'm never going drive it my life time to ever stretch a timing chain lol @@richardholdener1727
I can’t watch this….I had to watch two adds to begin the video, then I think I counted 12 ads so far about half way into it. I hate youtube. Worthless.
