My name is JJ Delbergue and I love to travel in my truck camper, a Northern Lite and see incredible scenery and meet wonderful people! Come along for the ride and enjoy the journey with me. Today I explain why I chose gas over diesel.
I have a 99 F-350 diesel dually, but if buying new it would be a gasser. The diesel cost will never be recouped due to the emissions and the low sulfur fuel. The new gassers have enough power to handle at least 22k lbs combined GVWR.
Drama? My wheezy F350 with a 460 got 8 mpg avg pulling our camper, ran hot going uphills, ate water pumps and cracked exhaust manifolds. Our 7.3 Powerstroke had only one set of injectors and Heui pump change in 827,000 miles - and it's STILL going strong at almost 1 MILLION MILES pulling effortlessly! Drama????? You need a checkup from the neck-up when it comes to engines pal!
@@seanoleary1979 I’ve lost count of how many times you’ve said the word “wheezy” in this comment section. You just can help but come into the comments of videos like this and crap on other people’s preferences to make yourself feel better, can you?
@@heathmcateer Correct! I exercise my 1A neatly, sweetly and completely! Ever since I raped my buddy's 'CVO' Street Glide multiple times complete with his $10,000 Screamin' Eagle engine kit with my bone stock Concours14, I just can't help myself!!! I think the world should know (as if they don't) just how big of a POS Harley builds! Hey, if you're that fragile, stop reading the comments, because sooner or later SOMEBODY'S gotta call BS and tell the truth about those limp-wristed/bloated POSs!
@@seanoleary1979it’s certainly your choice and the old 7.3L International sure runs for a long time. I prefer to buy cheaper fuel and have cheaper maintenance. Thanks for your opinion.
@@BillSprague Whoa guy... The per mile figure is cheaper for a diesel due to the better fuel mileage under a load despite the slightly higher initial cost - which as of late isn't even true with 91 octane gas at $4.75/gallon and diesel at $4.25/gallon BEFORE my Gas Buddy discount.. And, aside from the initial cost of an Amsoil bypass filter, the maintenance costs are actually LESS because although an oil change is 5 gallons (I use Delo @$19.00/gal at WalMart), my OCIs now come at 20,000 mile intervals, or whenever Blackstone labs says it's time. Either you flunked a whole bunch of math classes in high school and college, or someone gave you a nasty gas truck for FREE!
I bought the chevy 2500 6.6 gas custom back in March of 2020. It's used for pulling my 10k 5rv. Has no issues with it. It's got 35k now. It's pulled from Texas to Colorado, and to the hills of Arkansas. Averages 12mpg doing it. Thats with 460 extra lbs of bumpers on it and with the old 6 speed. It's what a hd truck should be. John Wayne style. Rough tuff and don't take no sheet off nobody. You have to push the brakes, check your mirrors, and watch who's in your way. Maybe I'm just old school but I like the smaller infotainment. Knob to check your status of the truck. My only complaint is the sqeeking brakes. I just have to spray some conditioner on the rotor every 6k to deglaze the pads. Not to mention it's 16+ pull rating. When the 2020 ford godzilla was only 14.5k and I got it out the door w 100k warranty for under 48k. Yes it's a crewcab 4x4 with the 20s. Side steps and roll up tannou cover. Which makes it nice for when the camper is off the truck. Everthing is covered. I have to say it's a heavy truck though. It's over 8k with the bumpers and hitch in. But it feels like a hd truck should to me though. You know it's under you when driving. I traded my 7.3 diesel for it. Just didn't want the extra cost of a diesel this time. So far I've been very happy with it.
I really like your set up. I am a huge fan of GM gas truck motors. I have a 2016 2500 with the 6.0 and it does exactly what it's supposed to do. I bought the truck with 3 miles on it and I plan on having the truck for 8 to 10 more years.
I've got 300k + miles out of all my gm trucks 5.3,6.0, 5.7 ,8.1 all wear used for construction, pulling heavy trailers daily, and 8.1 is my favorite. I wish they would make it again
@@miket2172 If GM would modernize their old 454 and put it in a HD truck for towing it would be amazing. I knew how good they ran with carburetors, can't imagine what fuel injection could do for them.
@CampNut the 8.1 is basically an updated 454 in my opinion, best engine for a heavy duty truck id even put against a Diesel max torque, is at like 3400 rpm I've pulled over loaded trailers with it plenty of times power was never an issue 15-18k pounds and still have my 01 8.1 it has 320k miles fires up like day one
@Lil Buddy Motorsports it wasn't about power its about moving weight for long periods of time I agree the 454 was a dog but did it's job that's why I love the 8.1 on the Highway about 65 mph I can pass people without downshifting at 1500 rpm when the truck was new it was comical how much pull it had down low in the rpms while going 70 mph -110 I would take out sports cars thar wear playing around without downshifting thar was 20 years ago but still impressive for a big truck
I have 2018 Chevy 6.0 3500 duelly. I have air bags and torque Lift helper blocks with a heavy duty sway bar. I carry a Lance 975 and it handles great. Air bags are worth every Penny. The Hellwig sway bar is also a game changer. Wish I had the 6.6 😢
I have a 2023 2500HD with the 6.6L, what a nice ride, except for the fact it is harder to climb up into compared to our half-ton. We have a 3508 pound payload rating and we get 9-11 mph pulling out 8,495 pound travel trailer with the bed full of generators & other RV equipment. Since I don't have the slide-,in camper certification I haven't considered getting another truck camper like our old Lance 1181,. If I was single I would consider a Northstar popup and a small cargo trailer setup recreational for my bicycles and ham radio. However we are both now working full time supporting USFS campgrounds & need our 33 ft travel trailer with a built-in office. This truck pulls like a dream compared to our half-ton, so much more stable. We aren't speeders so never need more torque getting up to highway speed & in tow-hayl mode it shifts half as often on overpasses as to what our half-ton V-8 used to. Only problem, 81 more payments to go, but we were $30K less than the diesel right next to it.
I thought for sure a newer diesel truck would get much better mileage! I used to get a solid 12-12.5 mpg pulling our 9500 lb (fully loaded) 30' Gulf Stream travel trailer with my old F250HD with the Legendary 7.3. What am I missing? Does all the emissions nonsense on the new trucks crush the mpg that bad???
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to go into detail and answer all the questions we would have asked. I run a 2001 Silverado 2500 gas with 2200 lb truck camper and my biggest problem was highway sway on windy days. Rear sway bar and Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks set to the max fixed that. They’ve been on the truck for 13 years and still work great.
01 Silverado 8.1L 4wd srw Bilstein 4600s Hellwig sway bar with a Bigfoot camper. No problem cross country and through the Colorado mountains. The weakest link are the tires but a drw is all good. Safe travels and happy camping 🏕
I've had four campers and after listening to you, my guess is those light weight Primacy tires are giving you too much flex and sway feeling. I'd swap those out first. I think a lot of us truck camper guys are running Michelin LTX tires, me included. Good luck!
You need a catch can for your 6.6 gasser! It'll extend the life of your engine due to it's direct injection. Save all that extra oil going into your intake. I put one one...took 5 minutes. Already caught a bunch of oil already. Used the J&L oil separator catch can. $150...well worth it if you want to last a long time. I have a 2024 2500 6.6 gasser with the Allison trans...it's a beast!
I bought the same truck as yours in a SRW version and LTZ package, even the same color and avoided the diesel for the same reasons you mentioned. I had 2 uncles with Ford diesels and they warned me of the cost of even routine maintenance not to mention if you have a bigger problem $$$$. I tow a 34 ft fifth wheel (11K GVW) with mine and couldn't be happier with it. Yes it takes me 30 more seconds to pull up a mountain than a diesel but I can live with that. I compared my weight sticker to yours, my GVWR is 11350, GCWR is 24K, RGAWR is 7250, Max Payload is 4065. Conv. Trailer rating is 14.5K with 1450 tongue weight. My gooseneck trailer rating is actually 16400 with 2460 tongue weight. Not sure why gooseneck rating is higher than your dually but it is. The way GM specs out the gooseneck max tongue weight separate from payload is stupid. My tongue weight counts against my payload (as it should) BUT I can't use excess payload towards my tongue weight is dumb. Me and the Mrs.'s travel alone and are always having discussions about things we really don't need to keep within those weights. Great video.
Although I have a 2021 F350; I ordered mine with a 7.3L gas. I did not want a diesel for just about all the reasons you did; other than I do tow a 8200# travel trailer. It doesn't even breath hard going up & down the hills and passes in the PNW. On a 4200 mile trip to AZ & back I averaged 10.3mpg. Crazy as it sounds; I get better mpg's at 63-65 than at 60. Neighbor with a Pruis was a little taken by the mpg's. My reply was that I didn't buy it for mpg's I bought it to tow. I've had a dozen rv's & trucks over the years and these newer ones have the power & torque needed. In a lot of cases about the same as a few years back as the diesels. No emission issues as well.
I went from diesel to gas. 6.7 to 6.2 I'm happy with it. I do miss the diesel, night and day different between the two. I tow roughly 8k camper trailer once a month 6.2 does just fine. Win some lose some kinda deal. Diesel good power and expensive maintenance and fuel (nowadays). Gas less power and less maintenance, oil change and go. Bad mpg when towing compare to the diesel.
We'll see if that wheezy 7.3 gasser can challenge the Legendary 7.3 diesel Powerstroke when it comes to longevity, dependability, reliability and low cost of operation. The last 7.3 I had before the one I have now had 827,000 miles on the clock before I sold it to a local landscaper who's STILL running around with it 5 years later with almost a million miles on it!
@@heathmcateer I ordered it with a 3.73. That year the only option was that or a 4.30. I thought the 4.30 would be a bit much, and I could always drop a gear since I have 10 to choose. I don’t regret it. IMHO, I’d say if your towing under ~11k# or so it’s great, if your over that or consistently going over very high mtn passes then you might look at the 4.30. I have had no issues at all crossing the Cascades, Coast range, Siskiyou’s or tahatchipi pass with my setup.
Just subbed. Great video. It's funny you mention 65mph being the sweetspot. It is on our 22 Custom model gasser towing our 8k camper, we get 9 to 10mpg. Below 65 it goes down, above it, it also goes down. Great video sir.
You will dig the Hellwig rear sway bar you ordered. My 2019 F350 SRW gasser has VERY little sway (since upgrading) when loaded down with my NL truck camper. Goes down the road like a dream . I also have zero regrets about not buying a diesel. I went with the 4:10 rear end wich has proven to be the correct choice for me. Cheers.
I'd probably do Timbrens over new shocks unless they're that bad of a ride. I have Timbrens in my diesel for hauling my TC and also on my box truck for work. They do great and add extra cushion.
Sweet set-up!! A rear sway bar would definitely help. As to why GM doesn't do that: cost. Plain and simply. Like the other manufacturers, they will do whatever they can to cut costs and maximize profits including leaving off a piece of equipment that would help the consumer.
I like what you did with the mud flaps. I think the front and rear sway bars should come with the camper package. Not just the front one. Be safe out there.
Smart way to do your mud-flaps. Should be standard on all heavy duties. Enjoying your content. Looking at the same camper. Would only go with Nortern Lite. Expensive but you get what you pay for.
I have a 2020 GMC 3500 SRW with the 6.6L Gas V8. I find it interesting that the DRW you have has a greater Conventional tow limit than for Gooseneck towing. Additionally, on my truck there is a sticker in the glovebox that provides slide in camper details/recommendations. For my truck, the curb weight rating for a camper is listed as 750lbs less than the max load rating for the truck.
Years back my brother rigged up a truck/camper combo, 2006 Ford F350 dually to be exact but a different brand of camper that "was" also made in BC, that company went out of business unfortunately. In any event he still has and uses the unit and at the time had looked at Northern Lite but decided on the one he bought due to it having more room and features he liked better although no slide outs either and did not want them as that is a whole other topic. I don't actually know what what his camper weighed empty but I think there was some fudge work going on as per the claimed weight vs what they actually weigh. Some of these large campers are insanely heavy and he picked the camper up in BC ( we are from Alberta ) and when they set the camper down on the truck ... the truck went down ... down ... down. I think it was sitting or very close to the axle bump stop. So dragged the trucks rear home literally and then had a spring shop install two leafs per side in the main spring packs and airbags as well. While that setup sat the rear end up reasonably well, what took years to figure out from not realizing that the airbags were actually counter productive for side to side stability. That truck did come from the factory with front and rear anti sway bars but as was proved they were not sufficient enough for that top heavy application. The unit was scary to drive on uneven pavement and certainly really scary in stronger side winds. So a few years ago he heard about the stable loads and put both the upper and lower units on and we jacked up the truck and let the axle hang down to the end of the shock travel to install all the wedges that it would allow. The upper frame overload on the ford is a bit of a joke, its only one rather chintzy leaf but the lower stable loads certainly helped notably and more so when more air was let out of the airbags ( surprise surprise ). While there was a noticeable improvement to the handling, it still was lacking. Upon my reading through various forums etc I realized that this leaning/handling issue is a problem to a lot of the tall top heavy truck campers on 3500 trucks and replacing the factory anti sway bars had merit so I suggested he spend a pile of money on new sway bars !. Between Hellwig and Roadmaster, Roadmaster had the largest diameter units for his truck so that is what he ordered through an RV dealer here ( you know how it is, everything up here is far more expensive then in the States ). So I helped him put those on and he says its completely transformed that truck between the lower stable loads and those replacement anti sway bars as he's had it in some pretty wicked side winds and its done very well, its like a completely different rig from what it started out as. By the way he also tows a Jeep TJ with a canoe on the Jeep roof and yes his is the lovely 6.0 diesel and has had some mods done to it after having the EGR fail years back. He gets about 13 mpg imperial while towing the Jeep. The truck/camper combo weighs in about 13500 lb with most of his camping gear in it which is overweight as 13000 lb was the gross on those older fords but the rear axle is not overloaded. By rights these big campers need a 5500 under them, certainly those ones that have the triple slideouts as they are very heavy. I see Etrailer is one company that markets the Roadmaster sway bars as one easy place to get US prices, my brother did call Roadmaster at the time to be 100% positive that the sway bars he saw listed were correct. Sorry for the long comment but if you have not bought a sway bar yet I would do some research into one for your rear and I see the Roadmaster they list ( just shows a single rear tire on the Etrailer site so maybe its for both single and dual ) is 1 1/2 inches in diameter, they are beefy !. Try a good rear one first and then decide if you even need to upgrade the front as there is no point in spending on something one doesn't need either, in my brothers case his unit needed all the help it could get to feel safe on the road. He still has the factory shocks on it, I too am not sure what shock would be an upgrade replacement that would have a more aggressive valving as I am sure that would benefit as well.
Wow.. lol. Great comment. Not sure back in the day but as of now each NL is weighed as it leaves the factory. This is why even though they may be the same model the weight varies. You can check out their website. Like I said mine weighted 3317lb . I will put sway bar on rear and upgraded shocks and better tires with sidewall protection. As the rest, the truck does not squat bad and handles well in wind and uneven ground. Check out my earlier video. There is no way I would consider put this on a SRW even though people say it’s no problem. Bet if they drove a dually they would change their mind. Thanks again for the comment.
@@jjsoutthere7267 People who think a camper of that size/weight with the basement system that puts the camper up high and top heavy and think it works well on a SRW either haven't used one or they are just kidding themselves because they don't want the extra wide dually truck. Besides a camper of your weight with all the gear/water in it would be so far over the rear axle ( spring ) and tire capacity weight and just waiting for an accident to happen with factory sized tires. If you have not seen the photo of the one ton dodge dually with the frame that cracked in half with the large three slide camper down in Mexico, that's a bit of an eye opener ( they talked about it on TFL truck ) as to what can happen with these trucks if its pushed well beyond its weight ability and add in some crappy roads.
@@charlesb4267 yes seen and have always said about A doing what your truck says not your ego. B Your insurance could back out especially if they get injured.
Thanks for all the spec info I would not buy a new diesel for what you're doing I own a 2004 ford diesel that had a camper nowhere near as big as yours. The mudflap thing is a great idea. Air bags and lines can leak I stick with bigger springs as well. Look into a larger fuel tank stay safe!
@@chucknSC you forgot cost of maintenance. Diesel take more oil, fuel filters, turbos, emissions, etc. Once you are out of warranty the diesel really becomes a money pit waiting to happen. Worst case you can replace an entire gas engine with a reman for a fraction of the cost of some of these diesel fixes.
You don't know what you're talking about.... We'll see if that wheezy 7.3 gasser can challenge the Legendary 7.3 diesel Powerstroke when it comes to longevity, dependability, reliability and low cost of operation. The last 7.3 I had before the one I have now had 827,000 miles on the clock before I sold it to a local landscaper who's STILL running around with it 5 years later with almost a million miles on it! The gasser 7.3 will cost at LEAST $10,000 in rebuilds ever 400-500,000 miles!
A very Chevy truck! You can actually see the engine and probably do minor repairs yourself. I am happy with the Bilstein shocks on my Dodge and would suggest tires with steel-belted sidewalls.
I got my Ram 2500 back in 2015 went with the diesel option it was $8500 at that time total out the door was $58k. I don't think I would buy one today with same Truck costing well north of 75k Dollars. I do my own oil changes but if I remember the dealer charged $100 for conventional oil and $350 for synthetic. I have been worried about the emission system, but I haven't had any issues with it. The electronic dash controls are what worries me I still maintain an extended warranty for $1600 a year. Overall I can't really replace what I have now which is a truck been paid off for years compared to what they cost today even with the extra cost of maintenance. The odd thing about the 2500 vr 3500 I checked lot of the parts exactly the same axles, breaks, frame even the same part number. The only difference is the spring weight my gross cargo limit is 2100 lbs not much. The only thing a 2500 is good for is conventional towing max weight is up around 18k max. If I had to do it over again probably go with a 1500 or 3500 not the 3/4 ton or 2500.
My 17’ has the L5P. Can’t imagine going back to a gasser. Thing is a beast and fuel economy is amazing (except when it’s in regen, she’ll be having weight loss soon to eliminate that lol). Put Bilstein 5100’s on mine when I leveled it a few years ago.
I get about what you get fuel milage with my ram diesel towing. My dad just ordered his 2024 2500 with the 6.6 gas. Will be interesting to see what he gets pulling his fifth wheel toy hauler with 2 Harleys in it
Why the sum of the gross allowable axle weights is different from the gross vehicle weight rating is one of The Great Mysteries of pickup truckin’. - signed -A class 8 truck person Oh and I don’t buy shock absorbers that have exposed polished rods commonly found in desert racin’ for road salt and gravel use. I’ve had good service from properly spec’d Bilstein units. And I like my Cooper AT3 XLT mocassins on my F3fitty (gas engine) camper truck. Nice rig - safe travels
1st time watching your channel JJ, nice setup! Don't forget Diesel is also more expensive than gas... I agree with you on the diesel maintenance costs, and gas is more readily available. Class A's with 454 CU gas engines barely get 8mpg. I was surprised that the Chevy Truck with such a large camper was doing so well on mpg. Liked and Subscribed.
Thanks JJ for the information. I bought a diesel and it's a good truck. Mine is also a 2022 Dodge quad cab, with Aisin transmission. I did buy the Norther Lite 10.2 but seems to have a leak but I'm not sure. If not that's a lot of condensation build up. My truck handle the camper ok , a little wobble but nothing serious. I do have factory air bags so no mods on my truck. I get round 13 MPG with camper but don't hold me to that. I have NOT officially checked it. My truck says I'm getting 14.3 but we est. about 13 MPG. There is a sweet spot you talked about and also on the diesel. Lower speeds is not always the sweet spot. I also think mine is around 65 mph. My max pay load is a tad over 52 hundred pounds despite what the internet says. I paid a lot of money for this camper but I might have to sell it due to my health. It's work for me to get in and out. Can you tell me about condensation in your camper? Great video, Where's Lorie?
Lori had to go back home but not to worry we will be getting together again and travel. Yes I had huge issues with condensation as most people do in cold climates. I thought I had a leak also up on either side of the bed but it was condensation collecting on the sides and running down to front of bed. I ended up keeping heat up and bought a dehumidifier which I ran every day. It’s just one of those things.
@@jjsoutthere7267 Well JJ you made my day. I thought for sure I had a leak, it was so damp and water on the ledge behind the seat. Honestly I was so disappointed. I actually wanted rid of this 75 w/taxes thousand dollar rig. I read were other RU-vidrs have been a peg board down, elevate it some and a small fan pointing toward the head clears this up. I can't believe D&H out of NC, didn't give me a power cord. I'm not sure what they was thinking. They are a NL dealer. Stay safe, Bill
Nice rig! To be honest I'm concerned about the higher center of gravity of a big camper. I'm also concerned about modifying suspensions. I understand you didn't want to go diesel but an F-450 XLT dually (for instance) with the standard 6.7 PowerStroke diesel has a MSRP of $70K (USA) and may not have needed suspension modifications. Please school me. Thanks.
The suspension mods are necessary because of the esoteric nature and demands a truck camper places on a truck. I have Hellwig springs, Timbrens AND a sway bar and it rides like a Caddy. When I had none of that my F250HD was a scary experience to pilot.
The 3500hd single wheel has 5 leafs and 2 overload , i would like to take a set of those and combine them with the 3 overloads that come on the dually for a better spring setup..
what about the frame behind the cab dont forget about frame flexing so between the weight of the camper and the weight of the engine it puts stress on that part of the frame behind the cab over years tho i have seen frames break in half over years of the frame flexing and id only reenforce it if u plan on keeping the truck.
Most frames break you've seen have been way over loaded. I mean way over loaded. JJ is better off than me because I have the same camper with a diesel engine. JJ does have a lot of stuff that I won't have. After all he's full timer. I assure you his frame will never break. In fact I don't think mine will ever break either.
thats true but it does take time years even to break but yea they dont pay attention to the pay load and they try a run a truck camper with 3 slides on it your right way to heavy. i think with 3 slides they want ya to have a 4500 dually
@@aliceinchainz3003 You are right, these camper people will sell you something you can't or shouldn't carry. They are telling me I can haul a host because their specs says it's 4900 pounds fully loaded. I like the Host camper with all the slides and I truly wish I could carry one but I won't take that chance. After all it's not 49 hundred pounds, I assure you of that. You need to fill your gas or diesel tank up, think about the water, that weights. 8.3 pounds per gallon, two riding in the truck and so many things. My camper suppose to weight 3450 pounds with all the options. For me personally I want a safe 4-5 hundred pound from my payload. Plus I think you're right. I don't think these frames break all at once. The guy in the latest pictures said he heard cracking long before it broke. He also said he thought his payload was 7600 pounds. I do understand where he gets that false information. From the internet. My door says 5280 I presume so about 47 hundred pounds is where I would like to be. JJ has a gas, so his payload is more. Diesel engines are HEAVY!
I only heard of two breaking. One Ford that was over weight and the recent 2022 Dodge which was way over weight. Now keep in mind this fellow had been all over and not a problem. Granted when he did have a problem it was major in the worse way. He's lucky no one was hurt or he didn't hurt someone else. I see no reason to check my frame with what I carry and I bet JJ has not checked his. He seems very conscious of things he hauls.
The gross weight of the trucks use to be the weight of the front axle plus the weight of the rear axle. I do not know why they changed the way the put it on the sticker. It makes sense if you can carry 5600 lbs on the front and 10500 lbs on the rear then the gross weight should be 16100 lbs not 14000 lbs. I have had alot of trucks and they all added up to the correct number.
I agree. Maybe it’s like tires. Single weight rating for example is 3000 pounds but if used in dual configuration it’s not 6000 but 5000 combined. Just saying.
The gross weight is the maximum load you can put on the front & rear axles...but...you have to take into account the weight of the truck before adding payload. You have to take it to the scale and weigh it empty. This weight slip will tell you how much reserve you have available. Watch this video...this is how you determine the correct way to load the truck without exceeding the stated gross axle weights: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kpsu92J8UU8.htmlsi=Q1vOe_WxyNZ65PJg
@@jjsoutthere7267 I think as far as using your truck to the most potential. I would go by the gross rear axle weight rating. I believe that’s what lawyers look at if you’re in an accident.
I have had diesel trucks since 1989. Yes the first one you buy it is extra money but the resale value is always there and sometimes more difference than when you bought. I'm retiring next year and considering buying gas too. When you say you are getting 10 mpg is that Canadian or American gallons? If you were American I would know the answer but since you're from Ontario, like me, if that's American that's pretty good.
Yes American just because the conversion was easier in the US. There was a lot more to my reasoning than price. I named a lot of reasons but it seems my comments I get just talk about one. Not sure why.
My oil changes are $55.00 because I do it myself using 5 gallons of T3 15W-40 Rotella and change it every 5-6000 miles. The crappy replies of rhe gasser-owners almost terrified of diesels is hilarious!
liked the video . curious on how you got such a high payload rating sticker as its crew cab , and is it 4x4 ? . did you price and build it from new to get the best payload rating possible ? thanks
I did sit down and build the truck but even the salesman ( part owner) said he wouldn’t know what the payload rating will be until the build and GMC puts the stickers on it.
Very informative. I have a 2024 dually on order, should be here this week. I have been reading that the box side heigth has increased, meaning that the distance from the bottom of the to the top of the bed is higher than older trucks. I do not know if this is true or not. Did you have to and a platform to the floor of the bed, or did the camper fit ok? Thanks
Hi Greg, I had to put down 1 1/2 rigid foam board and the mat that dealer gave me. Gives me about 2" above shark fin. The camper does rock especially on rough roads.
What make is it. GMC is the only one that puts your exact weight rating for your build on the truck. If other than that you have to look it up. My truck payload is 6200 and my friend with a 3/4 dodge said he had more because of the sticker. We went online and looked up his build and it was 2600. Hopefully soon everyone will do the same as GMC. Maybe the new ones do but I’m not sure. Like my camper. Northern Lite individually weighs each camper as it leaves the factory and that’s what’s on my paperwork. Other makers put the same weight as every camper but we know no two builds are the same.
Cylinder deactivation can be overridden by 1) shifting into “M” manual mode and setting the upper limit to 5th gear, and 2) plugging an override module in the ODB port to disable AFM. Lots of these modules on the market with “Range” being the most recognized unit out there.
nice job on the review! Curious tho... are you experiencing any oil burn?? Ive heard that there is a technician service builtin saying "perfectly ok to burn" aprox 1qrt every 1200ish miles. Specifically with the 6.6 gas
@@seanoleary1979you think them diesels with emissions are going to do any better. Diesel longevity is over. Only reason to get diesel is if you tow heavy all the time
@@agentcarder ...bruh... I have a several camping (5th wheel) friends with 6.7 Power Strokes with EGRs and the whole DEF/SHMEF rig and they all have over 300,000 miles on them without ANY problems whatsoever. Granted, they're not the Legendary 7.3 motors that will make it to 1 million miles - nothing is besides a 5.9 Cummins - but to make a blanket statement about diesels such as "Only reason to get diesel is if you tow heavy all the time..." definitely puts you on the Autism spectrum. My 7.3 gets 21 mpg (when empty) on the highway and 16 in the city - about 2 times better than my old gas F350 Super Duty with the 5.4 gasser that was plagued by overheating/pinging/blowing spark plugs out of the head and eating water pumps and rear main seals. Listen, if you don't know what you're talking about, just say so... it's easier to school someone who's upfront about their ignorance than try to convert a moron.
@@seanoleary1979that’s comedy gold, your complaint about making generalized statements…while making those exact same generalizing statements. Todays’s diesels are costing significantly more is maintenance and repairs specifically b/c of the constantly more restrictive emissions controls. To deny that’s the case is to ignore the reality surrounding you, but hey, generalized and all.
Emissions, these modern diesels are money pits and not that well engineered, not like they used to be. And the weight... Did you see the guy with the diesel 4x4 that installed a very heavy camper in the bed, and snapped his frame rails? Payload as you stated.
The engines are engineered better than ever. If the government didn’t insist on suffocating them with unnecessary emissions standards, they’d be the easy choice for any truck buyer by a mile
Like I said the sticker they put other than GMC are a generic one and if you wasn’t to see your exact limits you have to look them up. I could be wrong but I was told that and seen that. If you know differently let me know. All I know no 3/4 will have more payload or GVWR than a 1 ton dually. That’s just common sense. The only time there is a difference if it’s diesel over gas. There towing goes up but payload goes down. It’s a personal preference thing.
It's tough to keep them in weight. My class c has the fuel tank the water tank and the gray tank all behind the rear axle. And loading it to run to Texas I got like 150 lb left before I'm over the axle weight rating. I put my 6x10 trailer on it I am over the weight limit. I I am under tire capacity though
That's a gas guzzler! That's reason number ONE I didn't want a gasser. I get 15-16mpg with my 10 foot Lance truck camper going 65 mpg or less - effortlessly - in my F250HD (SRW) with the legendary 7.3 Powerstroke in it. When completely empty, I get 20 mpg, also going not more than 65 mph. It's an OBS Ford F series so it has 2 tanks that total 58 gallons. The 6.0 Powerstroke was a nightmare and the 6.4 wasn't much better, but the newer 6.7 Powerstrokes are almost as good as the 7.3s reliability-wise and a lot more powerful! Don't believe the BS others talk about the diesels being that much more expensive to maintain. My per mile operation is lower even though diesel is more expensive and I have the piece of mind of having a nearly indestructible engine - unlike those wheezy little gassers that are completely shot around 250,000 to 300,000 miles. Thanks for reminding me just how lucky I am!
He was referring to the new diesels with Def & EGR, not to mention $10-12k extra if u want the diesel option along with higher maintenance costs. The 7.3 powerstroke had none of those negatives, it was a good, old fashioned torquey oil burner that would last generations. I know 1st hand, my sister (she's a barrel racer) has an 01 that she's driven around the globe multiple times, its at 340k miles & the engine is running strong. Although the trans has been rebuilt 5 times, shoulda went with the ZF-6.
