Totally agree with all your points. If you fly very low and slow (< 1000 ft), wind is low and the field is large enough, you can even go with motor ejection without chute release or dual deployment. I would like to add two things though, which I feel are neglected by kit manufacturers: 1. Add rail buttons. Most kits come with launch lugs, even if they are supposed to be flown on HPR motors. There are clubs that no longer allow HPR flights off of rods, and it is a safety issue with the low rigidity of the rod. 2. Add positive motor retention. If you lose your motor, the prefect might not certify you. Personally I prefer the screw-on retainers (Aeropack style), but others use Z-clips successfully. Just don't bend a strap of steel yourself, that won't be strong enough.
I haven't flown my level 1 rocket in awhile, it is essentially a LOC IV build for use on 1/4" rods. It always flew very well from a 1/4" rod. I don't know how it is across the country but rods used to be much more universal than rails. Maybe rails are more universal now.
@@billj5645 Rails are the prefered method for launching high power rockets. Our club allows 1/4" rods for HPR but some clubs require rails to be used.
I saw a presentation by an Aerotech rep regarding rocket motor technology, and he actually recommended Elmer’s glue-all for bonding grains in a large motor they designed that required it. Someone used epoxy instead of the recommended Elmer’s and it led to a cato.
Not everyone agrees on what type of adhesive to use. Elmer's Glue All is a low expansion polyurethane glue but others say use epoxy. As usual everyone has an opinion on this.
@@TheRocketeer I should have been more clear that the scenario they were describing was for a minimum diameter rocket where low expansion was key. So it was a very specific case. I get the different adhesives are preferred, but I guess someone just needs to be very careful about their specific mission and the parameters required then choose materials accordingly
I do a lot of scratch building using mostly shipping tubes , and i mostly use a quality wood glue in 95% of my builds . Super Glue where necessary , > BUT < i always use Epoxy for fin fillets !! recommended brands : Loctite 5 min , J B Weld Clear 5 min , caution not recommended for power past Super Sonic. With proper prep , you can do 4 fins in 1/2 hour . Self Leveling !!!!! Hey let me know what you think Mike
Yes, I agree that using 5 minute epoxy will certainly speed things up and it works well. I have built complete high power rockets with the brands you mention. I don't use 5 minute epoxy for fin filets anymore because the epoxy has a very strong odor that my wife objects to. Rocketpoxy has a slight peanut butter smell and a longer working time. Bottom line is use what works well for you. Thanks for your comment!
I'm looking at the LOC Iris 4" for my L1 & 2. I'll step the 54mm motor mount down to 38mm for L1 to try and keep it low and slow. Been working on flight electronics today designing a pcb based off of the PI Pico with MicroSD, RFM69 packet radio, NEO-6M gps, MS5637 altimeter, and LSM303 IMU, with some mosfet switches for pyro events. Test it all with L1, then go dual deploy on L2.
Same kit for level 1 and level 2? If you build a paper/plywood kit for level 1 will you continue to use it? How long do you intend to wait between level 1 and level 2? If you wouldn't use a level 1 kit after initial certification then go ahead and build the level 2 rocket and use for level 1. Yellow glue is very strong, and is good for one part contacting another part, but I always build up fillets and you need epoxy to build up fillets. So for instance if you are surface mounting fins you can stick the fins on with yellow glue then come back later and add epoxy fillets. The yellow glue will stick things together relatively quickly and hold them in position wheras epoxy is always gooey up until it sets so your parts can move around. One thing I've found yellow glue good for is internal fillets. I've build motor tube/baffle assemblies that I put in from the rear but I want to fillet the front bulkheads inside the tube. I drip in the yellow glue from the top of the tube with the rocket almost vertical. That way it doesn't matter how much I use and it is easy to dispense right out of the tube rather than using a makeshift pastry bag. I did level 1 using motor ejection. If a person intends to go to level 2 it wouldn't hurt to use electronics in level 1 as backup to get the experience with it.
To answer your questions please see below. I use all my kits until they are lost or damaged. Fingers crossed! I don't recommend using a fiberglass kit for a L1. It is a big jump from kraft paper to another material. I would recommend at least 4 or more HPR flights before moving up to L2, don't rush the process. An experienced flyer should watch assembly and prep to make sure your day is successful. Thanks for your comments!
We have several club members that fly the Zephyr. An AeroTech H100 single use motor will work well and send the Zephyr about 2,000'. A chute release will help bring down the rocket near the launch area. Good luck and have fun!
I will use a LOC/Precision Cyclotron tubefin bird for my L1 and will build a second one stretched 18 inches and to be named Supercollider as my L2 rocket...both with yellow glue.
So I just got my EasyMini, and been doing some test with it with the software. My main concern is that my homemade igniters do not seem to be working at all with the software. (aka manual firing a igniter with the software) Running a duracell 9v battery with 24gauage wire base wire connected with 36guarge nichrome wire. I have been using the same DIP as you made in one of your videos, but because I wasn't getting anything to work. I stopped dipping and was trying to see if the EasyMini can even Heat up my nichrome wire. Which it cant...Seems like the EasyMini does a very small pulse of current then stops, which is not good because does not allow anything to heat up at all. I know my nichrome Wire will get RED hot when connected right to the 9v battery. Any information you might know of that can help me out?
The Easy Mini and other altimeters are designed to fire an e-match that requires a lot less current. There is no need to dip an e-match that is in contact with black powder. Nichrome wire igniters are made to light motors while on the launch pad. I use a dipped e-match to light almost all my sugar motors and they can be used on APCP as well. I make some fat and others slim depending on the nozzle size. I try to use the largest igniter that will fit with some clearance on each size for a fast positive light. I don't dip igniters for small "G" sugar motors. Push the igniter to the top and then pull back to about the middle of the top grain. I always test any e-match for continuity. I have found a few that do not pass and you sure don't want that in your altimeter!!
