Lever Chain hoist FIX and how they work 

Thanks

I seam to use bar oil on everything.

@@sixtyfiveford pre-made "tack oil" that I always have around...👍

I have a bucket full of "custom" tools that folks seem to think it's a scrap-bucket....lmbo

@ skull crusher I have manufactured my own thicker lubricants (more like runny pastes!) by using a heavy bearing grease mixed with a small amount of a few different types of oil, including of course, motor oil. I've mixed up very small batches using about the volume of one quarter of the average styrofoam coffee cup. It doesn't take much oil so if you try this method, start with a very small amount of oil... go 2-3 heavy drops at a time. Mix it into your grease with a popsicle stick or other similar throwaway item. Remember, once you reach the tipping point with your grease to oil ratio, it gets runny fast so don't go overboard. It's better to ease into it to attain your desired results. Peace & good vibes to all! 👍🏻🛢️👨🏻‍🔬 - Max Giganteum

I'm assuming someone used this with a forklift/tractor bucket to lift a heavy object. It's been sitting for at least 15 years so that didn't help either.

Awesome! Thank you!

I built it and have a built a few for myself now. They balance the tool so much better. Here's the video on one I built a few months back ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z48bVETwl7Q.html . It's a 6.0ah but I now have a 7.5ah that is a beast.

@@sixtyfiveford Thanks brother!

Hey thanks

Junk sockets come in handy sometimes.

Great to hear!

Hey Thanks.

That's a great find

Thanks for watching

She's not falling for it this time. But I'll get her next time

That's exactly why I bought them. Hoping they will far exceed the come along.

I've pulled out big tractors 60-70 HP with a 1.5 ton. I have a couple 3 tons and a 6:ton, but they have sprocket pulleys. I'm looking around for a single chain 3 ton, for personal use, keep in the vehicle. All my lever hoists are pawn shop specials. Just a working guy here.

Thanks

Lol

I wouldn't necessarily recommend doing that sort of thing in an attempt to fix something that's stuck unless you know for absolute sure you're not going to create more damage. I can't count the number of times I know of that somebody seriously damaged or destroyed an object by just placing an enormous amount of torque on to it or into it. Think things through before moving on to the Bigger Hammer theory! 👍🏻👨🏻‍🔧🇺🇸 - Max Giganteum

@@MaxGiganteum it was more of a controlled fix than it may have sounded.... I gradually worked up to what finally broke it loose.... it was a non working tool to begin with and if something had broke then it would still be a non working tool ! Parts can be bought or made. I didn't just jump to the big hammer theory like you assumed 😉

@ Chris Wright wrote: "...it was a non-working tool to begin with and if something had broke then it would still be a non-working tool". Yes... that's true. Sometimes, you just simply have nothing to lose when making an attempt to fix a non-working object. In the past when I have been employed as a machinist, there have been times where I was required to literally cut open parts or machinery in an attempt to salvage or repair them. It was a no-lose scenario much of the time. The interesting part was discovering how often manufacturers seemingly built things so that they would not be repairable or easily repaired. Even when they should have been! Talk about instituting the practice of ensuring future parts sales at an elevated level! Why sell a kit to rebuild... for say $20... when you can sell the entire replacement part for $120? Here's one: instead of making a part that can easily be opened up for rebuilding, it's completely welded shut instead! A lot of companies would just end up buying the entire part because they wouldn't have any machinists or mechanics employed to repair them. That's what I call pathetic. There is a counter action to that type of thing however. You simply buy one spare part as a backup, you convert it into a rebuildable unit and then place it on the shelf to use when needed. You likewise do the same to your original once it craps out... and you end up with always having a spare on the shelf and both parts are rebuildable on the cheap. I'm suddenly reminded of John Deere and their BS. A number of years ago, they decided to encode as much of their equipment as they could via the computer software so that any given farmer couldn't work on it themselves. You're forced to haul your equipment into a dealer (which is often completely impractical due to the size and weight of the equipment) or pay them to come to your farm and fix it at a huge cost with unacceptable delays. John Deere's claim was that it was necessary to protect their interests through proprietary software and hardware... yeah right! That's what we call guaranteed income through mandatory transactions. They forgot to mention that part of the deal where when the software or hardware is rendered obsolete by THEM, your equipment can now NOT be repaired by anyone and you are forced to buy all new equipment! Oh you've got to be kidding me!! Nope. JD has designed, built and sold equipment where that is a reality. That's exactly why I wouldn't ever buy any new John Deere equipment. At least not the equipment that is computer-controlled or has electronics that you cannot update, upgrade or otherwise fix yourself. Once again, I find that old school equipment is seriously appealing because it's simple, easily repaired, cheap to repair and it works. And it won't matter if the power grid goes out! Okay, that's enough for now... off the soapbox. Peace & good vibes to all! 👍🏻👨🏻‍🔧🇺🇸 - Max Giganteum

Thanks Rob. -Moe

Yeah, these came from an estate auction.

So true!!!

And a creative brain! 👍🏻🧠🤓 - Max Giganteum

I've tormented her well.

She's not falling for it this time. But I'll get her next time.

It's funny how we use different names for things, if someone asked me what a cotter pin was I'd say the pin that hold the crank peddle onto a bicycle (pushbike)

@@DougAskin we have always called them split pins

@@bruceaskin9645 you misunderstood me, I meant different from the Americans

I was going to ask you gentlemen if you were from England? Here in the US, they've always been called cotter pins insofar as I've ever heard and know about. Best wishes! 👍🏻👨🏻‍🔧🇺🇸 - Max Giganteum

@@MaxGiganteum Australia, we've always called them split pins.

They may still sell them if you Google enough. Or you can go to McCaster car and they sell bulk brake pad material in sheets.

Absolutely

I know McMaster sells friction material in flat sheets. Pretty much anything 1/8 in thick should work.

@@sixtyfiveford Awesome. Thanks for the suggestion.

Find a supplier of small diameter cut off wheels commonly referred to as a Zizz wheel. One of those might work and you can buy them in sizes from 1/4 inch (for a Dremel tool as I recall) all the way up to 2 feet in diameter. I've commonly used 2 to 6 inch cutoff discs in the past. If you need a specific diameter that you cannot buy, remember that all you need to do is use one to wear it away to get the size you need. Best wishes! 👍🏻👨🏻‍🏭🇺🇸 - Max Giganteum

@@MaxGiganteum if he needs 1/8" he could use the masonry blades from a circular skil saw or a chop saw. Less abrasive.

Brake pad not holding. Could have grease/oil on it?

She's not falling for it this time. But I'll get her next time

Yeah, a lot comes from estate auctions.

You got that right!

You've got to stop hanging out with bitter Chevy and Dodge guys! - Max Giganteum

Yes I did. I reversed it as it fit tighter with less slop.