[Try4ce] I'm pinning a comment here to clarify whether there is a difference between the OLEDs in terms of motion clarity when not using black frame insertion, because some people have looked at a few shots (particularly the one of Monster Boy running through the town) and come to the conclusion that the C2 has much worse motion clarity. The short answer is, no, there is no major difference between them one way or the other in terms of non-BFI motion clarity. So I wanted to explain why you're seeing this illusion... Older or cheaper LCDs may be slow at refreshing the screen, but that is not the issue we're seeing here. Display blur is actually mostly a trick of your eyes and how they track motion. Thus, a camera cannot (to my knowledge) accurately convey what a display's blur looks like. Each frame will be captured relatively sharply no matter how blurry it looks to your eyes in person. If you pause the video on the Monster Boy clip (or several others), you may notice that there is a double image on the C2, but each image has crisp edges on its own. So why does the C7 look perfect in comparison and have no double image? It's because there's a half a frame of difference (8ms) in lag between the two screens... 9ms on the C2 (in standard mode, as long as you aren't using 4:3), and 17ms on the C7 (for any supported resolution). Thus, what has happened here is that the C7 got lucky and just so happened to be exactly synced to the camera's shutter, whereas the C2, being half a frame faster, has two frames captured. If you were to pause on another side-by-side, you may be just as likely to catch the C7 being "blurrier" than the C2. The Monster Boy shot is not flattering to the C2, but that was certainly not my intention with it - any assumptions made on motion clarity based on what a camera sees are not at all correct.
@@arifeens [Try4ce] I'd love to do the tests, but would hate to make the video! Also, I couldn't afford to do it. I hope someone can get that information out there, though. I agree, we need to know where QD-OLED stands on gaming.
@@mylifeingaming If you set the peak brightness setting to high while gaming. It should be as bright or brighter than the c7 in sdr. I believe it isn't avaliable in game mode or pc mode. But you can enable it via colorcontrol.
Sorry but you should continue to do TV reviews for modern & especially retro gaming. It's a missing gap in TV reviews & you're excellent at it. I'm sure you can get companies to send you review units as well.
This is one of the best videos you guys have ever done, I wish more people did videos on modern screens for multi generation gaming, this is such valuable information.
Wow I had no idea tvs had become so complicated and arcane. The idea that labeling inputs would affect the image processing never occurred to me. Thanks.
My 2018 Samsung does this. Every time I plug my PC in, it gets labeled as PC. But with that, certain picture settings are grayed out, so I always have to relabel it. Was super annoying when I had it hooked up to an HDMI hub because then all my consoles would get stuck on PC Input mode for no reason.
I knew about it but not how big this issue is. It took me 4 times to get all settings normalized for PC and PS3 when I got the C1. PS1, 2, wii with gc and OG xbox are only on my 13" crt. I do not know whether I would like to use an upscaler at all.
Labeling inputs has been a dumb quirk for a very long time across many brands now. Around 2008 or so I used a 32" Samsung as a PC monitor and it looked like garbage (sharpening artifacts and overscanning) unless I used VGA or labeled the HDMI input as PC. Game consoles and even actual TV set top boxes looked nicer in PC mode!
As a gamer, you don’t know how much I appreciate this video as I was waiting for the C2 but will now go buy a C1 instead! My MisterFPGA offers its sincere gratitude.
@@tywanjames4427dude, i use it since it came as a pc monitor. never used once any of its smart features nor used any internet or tuner stuff. so for me its a dumb monitor as well.
What this has taught me is that I’m going to stick with my HD TV for modern content, and my CRT for retro content, for as long as possible. There is no way I can be arsed with any of this sort of messing about with settings just to play my games! Thanks for the video though, I found it really insightful and I’ve always fancied an OLED TV, but with this sort of faff I’ll gladly not bother!
32:40 That time MLiG briefly turned into the AngryJoe Show for two minutes! Man I'm sorry you had to go through that, Try, thanks for your service in getting the information out there. I did appreciate all the C1 information because it serves as the contrast to the C2 and what it COULD have been, so for me it wasn't a waste of time at all. It's like comparing revisions of retro consoles; it's still relevant despite being years old.
I do too. It looks so damn good and it's taken every weird resolution and video format I've thrown at it. Only thing it hasn't done is handle GBA consolizer sound but that just means I have to tell my AV receiver to use the audio from the headphone jack for that input.
Bought an 86” Nano 90 LG before I crapped out in 6 months, so upon return to Best Buy we paid to upgrade to the 77” CX. Huge improvement for the past year until last night.. now it’s crapping out with weird lines appearing and flickering. Fingers crossed you guys won’t experience this. Still deciding on a C1, or C2, but might have to jump to Samsung or Sony after having 2 garbage 2-3k+ TV’s from LG.
Funnily enough, since LG merged with Zenith back in the mid-nineties, I found I can actually control my C1 with my Zenith VCR remote through the RetroTink 5X Pro; I can turn the tv and vcr on and off, and I can switch inputs on the tv and control the volume 😅
@@jarrettriley5967 it’s pretty good. I’m in a bright room, but my c1 is next to my windows (essentially to the side-no windows facing the screen), so there’s no glare on the screen during the day. If the room your c1 would go in has windows in front of the screen, it wouldn’t get bright enough and there would be glare. Pretty much, during the day I just leave it on isf expert bright room and it’s bright enough; then, at night, I switch it to isf expert dark room.
If you’re also worried about extra brightness while classic gaming, mike chi just released an update that enables hdr on the retrotink 5x specifically to combat the lack of brightness while using scanlines on the c1. It works and looks great, especially if you play the original Xbox which has a darker gamma curve through component (oem or generic component cables, that’s just the way it behaves). So, if you have a tink 5x and c1, and the latest update, you’re all set.
Exactly. I have a bunch of older consoles that I want to hook up via retrotink 5x pro such as ps2, GameCube, master system, genesis, Saturn, all via the best component cables from hd retrovison and carby. I had lots of issues with compatibility on my 2019 flagship Samsung qled.
No lie, this is the best TV review I’ve ever watched for someone like me. I suspect there are more than dozens of us and that there must be some way to make this something different for manufacturers that want your audience to use their product.
Thank you for this comprehensive dive into the resolution performance of the LG panels. I bought a C1 6 months ago and have been very happy with its output. It goes to show that we can never assume that newer is better in all use cases. I think these electronics manufacturers are a bit like rock bands, sometimes you have to catch their best albums. Usually it's not the latest record. Best wishes!
Christ I'd never would thought this year OLED models from LG would downgrade the lag for almost everything so far. I'm super glad I picked up a c9 (2019 model) that thankfully was the few 2019 models that got the vrr/dark tune fixes. I reckon Vincent from HDTV test should have a look at this video, the fact you guys put so much detail in your investigations for each of your videos is really heartwarming to see but makes me cringe that other popular youtube channels don't spend enough time to do all this stuff just to find out if everything works...
You pointing out the input lag issues and differences between the tvs is super cool and honest, TV reviewers need to test more aspect ratios for sure, never knew that they would be different! Crazy lol, anyway still enjoying my C9 just interested in this video, my c9 is pretty bright in standard and I wonder if its actually the same or worse than your c7, never knew they reduced the brightnesses like that in the newer models, I was expecting the C2 to be a much brighter tv but seemed very similar and surprisingly worse in SDR, That C1 65inch seems like the best value for money TV right now and kinda glad you did get those issues as you got a bigger TV at the end and it still had those C2 upgrades like better input lag and all the gaming stuff
Average Sdr brightness can be increased by LOWERING contrast to 80-85, although this will lower the max. peak brightness. AND there existed a glitch on the cx/ c1 allowing you to enable peak brightness in sdr gamemode. To clarify motion clarity of the cx compared to the c1: Cx bfi on "high" (60hz) has a shorter mprt or frame visibility than c1, which results in a dimmer picture but higher motion resolution. Cx: 4ms mprt C1: 8ms mprt The bfi luminance phase times are shown on rtings Thanks for your vid, you're one of the very few showing sdr game mode brightness of an old woled in comparison to a new model.
Absolutely great review, thank you so much for putting this together. I have been debating the C2 42" vs C1 48" as a PC monitor replacement, already have a C1 65" for TV needs. Looks like I can pick up the C1 48" right down the road for $1000 which given this review seems a no brainer. Thanks again!
As an LG C1 with WBE ("Evo") panel owner myself, I am most pleased knowing Mr. Duddleson's expertise has, and will continue to widen my knowledge of this excellent display through its lifespan. I know no one else who would painstakingly cover detailed analysis of modern display technology with such care and skill, in large part, for the purposes of retro gaming. Thank you for this!
@@807D14M0ND5 - It's shown at 37:50 in this video. Also, every WBE "Evo" panel has pink tint off-axis, some have more pink tint than others, but they all have it. The older WBC panels have cyan tint off-axis.
Amazing review and welcome to the C1 club! I got my first OLED back in November last year which happen to be a 65 inch C1 with an EVO panel just like your's and I absolutely love the C1. The contrast is amazing with perfect blacks and the 1 ms response time makes motion in gaming so much less blurry compared to LED TVs. Hope your C1 gives you many amazing years of gaming.
Thanks for making this video! In November I purchased a 77" C1 OLED for my living room and I'm really enjoying it with modern and classic stuff. I moved my 55" B7 OLED into my basement to use as a secondary area to play games if my girlfriend wanted to be using the main living room area but I thought maybe I'd sell off the B7 and upgrade it to a C1 or C2 of the same 55" size and you certainly helped me make the decision on which. Sorry it was such a harrowing experience for you, though!
The absolute craziest thing here is the panel lottery that is barely touched on, then they don't even get into the INSANITY that HDR compliance and proper rendering is. This is the best video I've ever seen to owning a new set and that experience. Really enjoyed it guys!
Invaluable work Try, it would be great to have these kind of tests on most high-spec TVs for us enthusiasts in retro gaming too. I wonder how the new QD-OLEDs from Samsung and Sony would compare to your C1.
Hello! Happy C1 owner from Sweden here. It's funny how we both have a 65" C1 and it makes me extremely happy to see you use the same tv. One thing I can tell you about the PS5 hdr settings is that you may want to set it up a bit diffrently than what seems to be right. Vincent Teoh from Hdtvtest has good videos on features and settings for our tvs. I was so afraid that I was too fast in buying the C1 over the C2, but since retro gaming still is important to me (especially scart stuff) I'm happy to see the C1 outperforms the C2 in retro scenarios.
Super useful video guys. It was well worth it and thanks for bringing attention to these issues. So glad I picked up the CX when I did but this video giving me ideas to pick up a discounted C1 as a spare before stock inevitably runs out. I'm not happy with the UI on the C1 and the downgrade to BFI compared to the CX, but It will have to do. Maybe this is all an overaction and it's possible that this video will become quickly outdated, because even the C9 and CX weren't feature complete at launch and had plenty of bugs, but like you said, I wouldn't want to wait to find out. I just hope I score an older panel and not the newer "Evo" panel, which from annectodal evidence seems to be more prone to uniformity and viewing angle issues. I could be wrong and again this might vary between regions, but it's another factor to consier. Buying tv's always ends up being so stressfull.
After 6 months messing around with this on my C1, I'd recommend just sticking with HGIG over the Dynamic Tone Mapping option. With the latter, I'd be routinely messing around with settings due to blown out whites, particularly in movies (see bright sunny days and tarmac roads, windows in a dark room, etc). It'll look a little dimmer initially with HGIG and will take you time to adjust, but after settling in, I haven't touched the settings since and have been really happy with the display. Also cool 30 is incredibly blue & unnatural. You do you at the end of the day, but I settled on Warm 20, which is more natural, while still looking a little cleaner with less of that sepia tone of the recommended Warm 50.
[Try4ce] So I didn't get into it in the video, but I found the white balance on C1 to be a lot different from C7 and C2. Neutral on C1 feels just right to me for SDR and HDR, while Dolby Vision I moved to Warm 20.
@@mylifeingaming - I know watching this through a RU-vid video probably isn't accurate and some of it is even subjective but to me the picture looked better on the older C7 than the C1 or C2 for most games. The color pops and is the right brightness but the newer models looked dim and less impressive to me in your comparison.
here is the answer. HGIG is rec for most HDR titles. With some HDR titles that have 4000 to 10 000 nits highlights u need DTM DTM will raise apl and decrease the highlights while HGIG will lower the apl with increased brighter highlights that will result in more dynamic range
@@mylifeingaming fair. End of the day it's what the viewer is happy with, whether that's "accurate" or not. Calibrators would say my set up is wrong, as I'm not using Warm 50 which is what most film content is mastered to (6500k). I just know I spent many months messing around with the settings after purchase and prob the best thing I ever did was turn off Dynamic Tone Mapping. It raises the brightness of the entire frame too much and really blows out certain types of highlights. It looks punchier initially in a quick A-B comparison, but it was the cause of a lot of issues for me.
Thanks for affirming my choice of a c1 a couple years ago. Loved to see you rant like a crazy person. Also, please do this same review on your future oleds. If I'm lucky, it'll line up with my upgrades too 😁
I know you wrapped this up with the premise of never revisiting OLED reviews again, or TVs at all, but holy moly I learned so much and feel better informed as a consumer. Thank you for bringing your unique insight to the situation and for the thorough video. Also, LG C3 when? 😂
Your timing here is impeccable! I was at my sister's house over Easter admiring their new TV and began wondering about replacing my aging Bravia. I started looking at these exact models yesterday....but I want to plug some pretty niche hardware into the back of them, how will they perform? I couldn't believe it when this video appeared today! It tells me *exactly* what I wanted to know! The only thing that won't thank you is my bank balance!
I'm only 13 minutes in and this is already in my top 10 list of MLiG releases so far. Try, amazing work man. Seriously awesome effort. Thank you for taking one for team!
TV reviewers could learn a lot by watching this video. I know most users probably won't get into oddball resolutions and niche features, but this is a great breakdown for those of us who do.
Try you just saved me a lot of money with this video. I have been dreaming about getting a LG C2 so I want to thank you for saving me from that nightmare! It’s a shame that 4:3 is so laggy on the C2 hopefully they will correct that. Needless to say I’ll be stoping by my local Best Buy this week to pickup a 65” C1!
Have the old model he's talking about that cost me 3000 a few years ago and has burn in so bad you wouldn't take it for free. I remember when I bought it LG said "oh we fixed the burn in problem this year" which is exactly what they're saying about this year. I don't know if Sony (using the same panels I think) does a better job but just based on Sony's history versus LG what do you think.
Don't do it!! Unless you don't mind replacing the set in a few years due to burn in don't do it. They said back then they finally fixed the burn in, and now they're saying literally the exact same thing "we finally fixed the burn in" - LG always has been garbage, if oled was the way to go every company would be pushing it.
@@ALitleBitSpecial which model did you have issues with? I’ve heard good things about the past few years from LG. I’m a Sony fan but from what I’ve seen it seems like LG is king for retro gaming at least recently.
@@ALitleBitSpecial Every company is pushing it. Samsung has QD-OLED debuting this year. Sony has been making OLEDs for a couple years, they're starting to make QD-OLEDs as well. Vizio has an OLED model, maybe more. Panasonic has an OLED available outside of the US. Dell just made the first QD-OLED monitor. Other companies like ASUS have made portable OLED screens for professional use. OLED tech has definitely evolved over the years. Only time will tell if Burn-in continues to be an issue. If you don't want to take the risk, stick with LCDs, there are still some solid LCD options out there. It's just hard to beat the picture quality of an OLED.
If you have a micro center check there for the C1 65" refurb model. I got mine for $1,199 and it is brand new flawless and it is an EVO panel as well! They sold out within a few weeks.
Genuinely one of the best TV reviews I’ve ever watched, and I watch a tonne! 👍🏻 It was so good I watched it twice! This review also pushed me to go with the 65” C1 over the C2. My old C7 55” had panel issues and I sent it off for repair. They couldn’t replace the panel so I got refunded the total amount I paid 5 years ago for my C7! Now I have a newer and bigger OLED with some money left to spare (for video games, of course!) 😄
@NicoMiel60 the only reason I did is because I just got it. Don't get me wrong, still not great for retro gaming. (I have a CRT trinitron for that) but the updates help.
@@arcadeperfectreviews2653 Finally, an answer! This is good to hear. I upgraded to an 83" OLED and stuck with the C1 to be on the safe side. Apparently, the 83" C2 doesn't have the upgraded panel that the other C2 models have anyway, so it's not like I lost out on anything by not going for the latest generation. It saved me some money, too.
Best tv review of 2022 i almost pulled the trigger on a c2 and decided to skip a year based on this video... I really want 2023 version of this video comparing s90c and g3 for retro gaming but i have no hopes on that :/
You can use auto HDR through Windows 11 to raise the brightness of any game without quality loss, even retro games to counteract the darkness of BFI. Note that it'll only work in borderless or windowed mode as fullscreen apps will disable HDR.
I’ve owned a 65” C2 for a few days now and either they fixed the lag problem or I’m just not noticing it. I regularly play retro games on a CRT so I at least know what near 0 lag feels like and the C2 gave me no problems playing with an OSSC in letterbox. Again, I haven’t done any real testing so I’m not 100% sure it’s fixed. What I can say for sure is that lag is non existent compared to something like the genesis collection on the Switch. Just a side note about OSSC, this is the first TV Ive owned that actually supports the 4x deinterlaced mode and it makes PS2 games look awesome!
I'm sorry for your pains but highly appreciate this review! This video couldn't have come at a better time. My old old Vizio LED is finally on the fritz, so I'm looking to upgrade to the widely lauded C1. Your channel never ceases to be helpful and informative to me!
THANK YOU Try for putting in all of this work. I’m actually calibrating a Panasonic ST60 Plasma as I listen to your vid and I understand the tribulations of what you pulled off here. I just recently calibrated my 48” C1 and recognized most of what you mentioned; I’m glad it turned out well for you. These kinds of granular, in-depth looks into the gaming capabilities of displays are invaluable and I just wanted you to know it’s GREATLY appreciated.
I just got a C1 a week ago so this is perfect timing Also 37:08 now I'm imaging you sitting in the chair with the "we ran out of time" CGs replaced by an OLED TV
My 2017 LG C7P did something similar. I had bought a floor model at my local NEX in April 2018 (the last one), and they gave me a free three year warranty (because it was a floor model). Around late 2020, it started showing a distinct vertical line in the center of the screen. I began the exchange process with Asurion, but they were less than helpful and kept denying my claim. I casually complained to a NEX employee one day, and she told me to bring it into the store and they would submit the claim for me. Once I did that, they exchanged it for a CX on the spot, although I paid about $200 more for a new three year warranty, which I normally don’t buy, but felt it was worth it this time with my previous experience with the last TV. I did never check the amount of hours on the C7P, but I bet it was much longer than a casual user.
Excellent video! Informative and entertaining as always. As a RetroTink5X and C1 owner, I have become incredibly fond of the 1920x1200 setting for most classic systems. It was frustrating and sad to see how the C2 handled all 4:3 content. The first half, where you tested the C2, was like watching your favorite team in the championship and floundering. "55 inches!? But you could get a 65C1 for nearly the same price right now! Unacceptable, inexplicable 4:3 lag!? My C1 does not do that me! SDR performance equal to your 5 year old panel!? GET THAT THING OFF THE FIELD!" I might be alone here, but I only use game mode for PC, PS5, and XSX. I really enjoy the "Expert mode" (day or night accordingly) when playing everything else. Much better saturation and an overall more pleasing image than game mode. I'd be interested to see your opinion on the Expert mode for the Nintendo Switch and the RetroTink5x. Thanks again for a great video!
I bought a C1 based on this video for my upstairs room! In my downstairs I have a 65 inch TCL QLED. It is super freaking dope but MAN is OLED next level! If you want the brightest image money can buy that still rocks, get a big QLED. But the quality of the blacks and everything else going on in this OLED screen… wow. So impressed. Significantly dimmer than the QLED, though, for those who are interested.
Great video! Your discovery of input lag sounds like only 0.1% of people would care, but this really needs to be spread out that it's unacceptable, I really hope they fix input lag in later patch for 2 series owner and not carrying the same bug in future series. I've been on similar road in regards to AV receiver. I don't wanna name brand & model incase I don't want to hurt any owner's feelings. Using HDMI audio, changing from 5.1/7.1 to stereo add 50ms of delay. Then changing sample rate from 192khz to 48khz add further 30ms of delay. Totalling up with its base delay of 25ms, by outputting stereo PCM 48khz from HDMI audio that's 105ms delay for no reason! Recently I swapped my AVR with different brand with no stereo and sample rate issues and it totalled to only 6ms delay, a huge improvement over 105ms. It sounds really crazy when I prefer input lag improvement over so called sound quality, but this absurd should never happen and made me paranoid when swapping given how expensive AVRs are. Thank heavens for that 6ms delay!
Great, in-depth review and comparison. Wish someone would similarly test Samsung's quantum dot/mini LED 4KTVs as well, and put those through the paces.
I got a C1 a few days ago, mostly because of the insane discount. You really made me feel like I made the right choice! And I had no idea my C1 had an EVO panel until I watched this, neat!
If you play retro or sdr games on lgc1. Look up HLG hdmi override. Looks great with hgig. my settings. Gama on native. Saturation 50 or to your liking. warm2. Hgig. Sharp 15. high resolution. game mode standard. It will still be bright and have better contrast and color pop. Turn off all the other energy save settings it doesn't go dim. It will still be bright with bfi.
I have a 65-inch OLED C1 that I picked up last year and I love it. I use it for both retro and modern gaming and so far, I can't complain. This video was great. It really captured what I worry and care about when purchasing a new set. Anyone considering buying a TV, should have a look at this video. Highly entertaining and very educational. Thank you!
I personally go for accuracy to industry standards (6500K white point, 100 nit SDR), so I personally recommend to at least give it a chance by using filmmaker mode and to copy those same settings into game mode. Give yourself a few days to adjust to the warmer color temperature and your eyes will thank you.
Filmmaker mode is actually not a good standard to use. Get the TV calibrated and then use light and/or dark mode for SDR content. Then use cinema mode for HDR. Filmmaker mode, it turns out, was marketed as being the standard, but calibrators have discovered that that's simply not the case
You can disable the automatic brightness limter in the service menu with service Remote which is like 8 to 10 dollars from Amazon. I did for my c1 48in
I feel fortunate I jumped on the OLED bandwagon with the CX. I’ve had it over a year now, over 4,000 hours on it, and have absolutely zero complaints to this day. Literally in awe every time I use it
This video hurts, because I'm in Try's exact demographic, and now I'm very tempted to upgrade. I have the 2017 B7, which has the same vertical line issues as the C7 model as they're basically the same. It also has no 1440p support, which has been disappointing for the Retrotink 5X. Upgrading today does mean I have to eventually upgrade my receiver to a HDMI 2.1 from 2.0 if I want to take advantage of 4K120 or VRR, but that can be put off. I could probably get another 2 years out of my B7 as my primary display, but having somebody else take the plunge and test ALL of the same setups that I would use takes out all of the guess work. I was going to need to upgrade to a HDMI 2.1 display eventually, so the C1 seems a good a choice as any. Thanks for the video Try!
[Try4ce] Yeah I'm in the same boat too. Not having an HDMI 2.1 receiver or HDMI 2.1 capture card seriously reduces the usefulness of an HDMI 2.1 TV. Later this year I'll probably get a new receiver, but ugh, those things seem to be getting more and more expensive for anything that would satisfy the number of outputs I need...
I originally ordered the LG C6 after monitoring junkerhq and the vgp forum for OSSC 3x and 5x compatibility. I fully expected the LG oled to be my only option to check all the boxes. My only gripes with the C6 are the 5% greyscale muddiness, which didnt seem to improve that much in the following generations and being stuck with 60hz nonVRR. I also enjoy mostly nonHDR content with the OSSC, I absolutely love the OLED full blacks for retrogaming paired with really strong colors. I‘ve got my setup in a really light controlled environment, 100% on HDR Content on the C6 are almost painfully bright for my eyes, so i probably wouldnt benefit from the much improved peak brightness in newer gens. If my C6 ends up failing, I might take your route of going CX or C1. Thanks for this great review, it‘s rather uncommon to find people that somewhat mirror my TV experience with mixing upscaled retrogaming in SDR while also using the same setup for 4k Content such as the PS5 and UHD blurays.
Absolutely exhaustive coverage! Love it! Did forget to mention which V-sync mode you are using for MiSTer though :P vsync_adjust=0 triple buffered (2 frames), 60hz (compatibility mode) vsync_adjust=1 triple buffered (2 frames), native system's refresh (smoother) vsync_adjust=2 single/sub-single buffer (0-1 frame), native system's refresh, synced
For anyone looking into Sony OLEDs: Both a80j and a90j have 16ms of lag. And BFI works very well, without adding any more lag. But just as all BFI... It makes your picture darker.
Thank you for a really well put together video. It actually prevented me from making a dud purchase. I'm extremely frustrated and disappointed though! I had my heart set on using the 42 inch C2 as an all in one pc, console and retro gaming monitor. With the retrotink 4k in development, MAYBE I could let the lackluster upscaling of 1440p slide but the 4:3 lag is just inexcusable! I would love to know why it's even a thing? I did consider the 48 inch C1 but it's just too big for my particular setup. I guess I'll have to either wait for a firmware fix or wait and prey that the C3 doesn't have these strange issues. We 100% need more TV reviews with retro gaming in mind!
[Try4ce] I've been glad several times already for no 4:3 lag on my C1. It's useful for reasons outside of weird stuff like MiSTer and upscalers too. Just today I was setting up to play a Genesis game on a PS5 collection and noticed the 4:3 aspect ratio was wider than it should be. However, by setting the in-game aspect ratio to stretch, and then squishing it back to 4:3 via the TV settings, I was able to get more accurate proportions. This would've added a lot of lag on the C2, but it doesn't on the C1!
[Try4ce] Yeah, it's just a matter of needing to learn to shoot and edit in HDR... which I'm not feeling ready to make the step on just yet. It's not as simple of a workflow. Plus I'd have less control over how the tone -mapped version might look on most viewers screens.
This is the best TV review I've ever seen. I bought the 55" C1 five months ago and now I decided to get the 65" C1 before it's completely sold out, as it doesn't look like any of 2023's OLED TV or monitors will have 120Hz BFI, and they probably have other issues with legacy content too as you demonstrated with the C2 in this video. Here's hoping things get better in the next couple of years on that front... yeesh.
I have a question that wasn't addressed in the video - My GC Video solution (I use the CARBY) experiences pretty bad audio drift when using my LG TV. My understanding is that it's an issue that occurs due to a non standard SPDIF signal from the digital port of the Gamecube. The vast majority of TVs and DACs will simply buffer this however my LG TV seems to take this signal rather literally and will not play nicely with the CARBY or any GCvideo based solution. Does anybody know if the LG OLED TVs have the same issue with GC Video? Try uses a CARBY with his C2 so I assume it's a non-issue, but I just wanted to check.
[Try4ce] I run mine through an AV receiver, so maybe that keeps the audio in sync. Audio on those types of devices that force audio over a DVI standard do get funky.
You may have hated doing this, but this has been the best video I've seen yet comparing LG OLED's. As a fan of LG OLED's I have an old E6 that's on it's last legs and I need a replacement in the next couple of years. It would be amazing if you could collaborate with someone next time for a C2 vs C3 next year. And see if LG releases firmware for the C2 to fix any of the issues.
[Try4ce] Hah, well I'm glad it answered some things for some people. I'd love to help regular TV reviewers get set up with testing weird retro stuff, but it's not something I'd like to revisit myself anytime soon!
Seriously great vid! A couple of points... 2ms response time shouldn't be possible. *Many* reviews have shown the fastest response time possible is 4.7ms at 120Hz with Boost mode enabled on both the C1 and C2. I've never seen 2ms on _any_ TV or monitor, even 360Hz+ monitors. Typically for 1080p the C1 and C2 will get 9.5ms at 60Hz with Boost, and 13ms in Standard mode. But you were also getting ~9ms in Standard mode. So i'm not sure what's going on here? Maybe it's because you're using a Time Sleuth and i'm pretty sure i've not seen anyone else test with this before, but it seems inaccurate. None of the C2's use Evo panels. They use EX panels. The C1 uses Evo panels (or what people have named "Evo panel" because it's not an official name). The new OLED.EX panels (official name) on the C2's have larger subpixels, which allows for higher brightness in HDR (and possibly longer life span). But LG's meaningless marketing considers both the panel and SoC *combined* to be "Evo" so that's why it says Evo on the C2 box. Just wanted to clarify this because i've seen both you and John at Digital Foundry call them Evo panels.
Most (all?) reviews show latency measurements taken from the middle of the screen, but as you see in this video, the measurements are taken from the top instead, hence the discrepancy in the latency figures. If you add ~8.3ms to the 60Hz figures (the time it takes to draw a 60Hz frame from the middle of the screen), you'll get a latency measurement which is more in line with other reviews.
Any chance at a follow up / update on this video? Would love to look at the LG C2 soon and am curious if things have improved with the issues you faced.
@@mylifeingaming Ohh right I forgot that was the the conclusion of the video. Well I'll be picking up a C2 soon we'll see how it goes. Worst case scenario I'll just be sticking to 1080 and 4K content
Real interesting how I managed to snag the best OLED when it comes to BFI, though I don't use it that often. Though I would like to have that boost mode option, it seems like the CX doesn't support it.
The cx bfi on high (60hz) has a lower mprt of 4ms than the c1's 8ms and therefore better motion clarity. On the other hand it dimms the picture much more,
Same here I got my 77" CX last year, and it is awesome for gaming! I only got my mini snes hooked up for retro gaming, and it's fun to play when I need a break from the modern games.
SDR can go as bright as you want it. Unlike HDR, which has fixed brightness levels, SDR scales relatively. Many sets are able to show SDR even at 300-500 nits of brightness. HLG is the only HDR format that has SDR-like scaling. True calibrated SDR brightness is 100-200 nits (my displays are at 200), but it really depends on your ambient room brightness as to what you want. With SDR, it scales relative to your room whereas HDR is designed for a completely black room unless it's HLG.
