2 years later and your video is still helping others, I replaced my first high limit thermostat ever and I feel damn proud I was able to do it. Thank you very much for this
Had a problem with my dryer, it took me 3 or 4 cycles to get my clothes dry. I watched this video and did everything he said step by step and now my dryer is running like brand freaking new. You saved me time, money, and my wife is not yelling at me to " Just go buy a new washer and dryer" saving me about $1400. 00. Bless you sir, you really know what you are talking about and doing but more importantly you saved my ass! HIGHLY RECOMMEND HIS VIDEOS.
The was the most informative repair video I've ever seen. My husband and I fixed our dryer today and it was very fast and easy because we were able to reference this as needed. Added bonus: you sound like the Bob Ross of appliance repairmen!
Following this video, my dryer seems to be the same model in your video. LG DLE6977w (2003.) I bought a multimeter and got the same readings as you got in the video. I've ordered a new part STRAIGHT from LG. One of my drum roller bushings had disintegrated so I also ordered one of those from Amazon for $15. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hoping I can get this "vintage" dryer back up and running, thanks to your walk through! I'm not in a position to buy a new dryer, and I'm a firm believer new appliances can be unreliable. This dryer has taken my abuse for several years, kids clothes, dog bedding ECT. I've only lived on my own for 10 years so I'm learning a lot, and one of those things is dryer maintenance and how important it is, as well as how much money you can save doing it on your own if you can.
This was extremely helpful! Thank you!! I had the same symptoms of no-heat on my LG... Not being much of an electronics guy, I watched your video, and low and behold my high limit switch wasn't showing any continuity either. My part is now on the way! I like to post the occasional how-to on my little channel when the opportunity presents itself as my contribution because guys like you are generous enough to share your knowledge with the world. Thanks again and God Bless!
Thank you so much! Your video was so clear that I was able to replace the fuse on my LG dryer with no problem. I’m a beginner with this type of repair with assembling IKEA furniture being my most adventurous task before this.
Dude! Thank you for posting this. Our dryer is a different model, but wow. Except for the control board which had fewer plugs than the model you did the video with, there were absolutely no surprises. I replaced the heating element (which came with a T-Stat and fuse), the tires the drum rides on, and the belt. Cleaned it really well, (I watched the other video too) and made our 18 year old LG Tromm like new. Bride is ecstatic. $111 in parts and about an hour and a half. Thank you!
perfect video! Every step along the way matched my model just right. I appreciated how you also showed the steps for reassembly. A lot of how-to videos leave that out, tell you to just reverse the procedure. The reverse camera angle really helped understand how to take off & put on the belt. I rehearsed the procedure to put on the belt about a dozen times without the drum in place so I could see what I was doing, then closed my eyes for the last few reps so I was ready to do it blind. Worked out nicely. Thanks, dude!
I found you and I’m so glad I did. My husband attempted to fix our LG dryer and it was a success. The step by step instructions were very good. Thx for sharing.
Thats wrong, my grandparents had same dryer for 30 years with 8 kids. Household applicanecs use to be an investment that lasted. Now these manufacturers make crap to break often require parts and service often so they can keep getting money out if us. Its wrong and criminal. My uncle bypassed all the electeonics on my parents lg and put in a 3 phase heater and used a standard dial timer and turned the lg into a manual dryer. It jas worked well for the last 9 years while my lg has crapped out 5 times now. Im getting my dryer converted like my parents.
2nd time around fixing mine in 2 years. So i modified my unit and put in 2 flap trap doors for easy access so i can now quickly test and fix these parts. Just used a angle grinder and used a cheap hinge with ca glue and works like a charm.
This is a great idea. It would be nice if the manufacturer would do this to make life easier on everyone. I would love to see a photo of your door location/size/hinge etc.
Saved me a lot of money and a ton of mental anguish. It looked daunting but I just took it step by step through his video and the process was easy. The hardest part was making sure the voltmeter I had was set right. Never used one before. I had a cheap one from Harber Freight that seemed to do the trick. Note that in the video he said there should NOT be continuity between the blue/Yellow wire on the heating element. When I tested, I found that mine did, so I read the other comments and someone else had the same issue/question. Not to repeat them, find those comments and read them. Reassembly was even easier. Working now like nothing was ever wrong. Big thanks again.
This was the perfect video. I was able to replace the thermal fuse and get everything back together the way it was. Thank you for putting the chapters in there, along with your commentary. I really wouldn't have been able to approach this without such a detailed guide.
Thanks to your awesome help, I was able to replace the thermal fuse. The dryer was producing heat immediately after replacing, but after a full load ran, it was no longer heating. I'm assuming the thermal fuse blew out again pretty quickly? The dryer seems perfectly clean-- no blockages that I can see. What would you replace next?
I love how chill you sound during the whole process. Like the Bob Ross of appliance repair videos! I have 40 ohms continuity between the blue and yellow wires to the heating element. Red to either is 20 ohms. Is this ok? You mention no continuity between the blue and yellow wires. Thank you for this great instructional video!
I have 40 ohms continuity between the blue and the yellow wires. In addition, red to either wire is also 21/22 ohms. In the video you said there should be no continuity between the blue and the yellow. Which one is correct?
The person who commented above was 100% correct. Because I read his comment I saved $65 on an aftermarket Heating Element. My Ohms Tested exactly as his did, and all of my sensors had continuity. I just replaced the Thermal Fuse (High-Limit Thermostat) and the (Rear High Limit Thermostat) dryer worked perfect. I got one load of laundry out of it (I spent 2 days cleaning this thing to new on my deck leaf blowers etc) and poof it failed. I massacred the guy on Amazon where I bought these two parts for $10. Turns out that regardless of ALL THE TESTS - The High Limit (part being replaced in this Video) failed again. I have now bought two LG parts (as they lasted me 13 years no issues) - No I didn't spend $60 - I got a guy who sold them on eBay new LG for $20 for both....I will keep them on spare to see if it happens again. What I am testing now is if I bought too short of a new vent exhaust hose. The old one was such a fire Hazzard and about 8' - I went with a 3' and I wonder if there was too much tension etc on it. So I have pulled the dryer out so no kinks and see how long this Chinese sensor holds up again.@@kathykingcaid9724
@@Matt314159 Yes! I've bought a host of Chinese aftermarket off Amazon and LG Sensors off eBay. I've had to replace them a few times after the initial Deep Clean. I can't recall if the LG lasted longer then the Chinese. But it' possible and likely. I've replaced them a few times in the first few weeks. Now they've held up for 6 months!
I think it’s GREAT that you just be yourself in your videos. I would say though that you maybe reiterate anything of great importance- maybe just make a sheet that highlights those items so ppl can see them and why they’re important. Ppl forget too easily even with a video they can rewind. But I liked your presentation. I’m hoping I can fix my so sons dryer; it’s also an LG, was hoping it wouldn’t be so in-depth of a job, but it is what it is. I did watch another video and it just showed how to “Reset” the dryer, but after watching your video I learned that may not be a good resolution to the “not-drying” problem, especially if you don’t know how much LINT might be built up inside the interior of the dryer, and cause a fire😱 Thank you for your video. Keep up the good work🙏😅
Blue and yellow will have continuity in a functional heating element. There should be approximately 20 ohms between red and yellow/blue and 40 ohms between yellow and blue because they meet at the red terminal
Great instructional video. My problem is a little mind-boggling. The heat works very intermittently . Sometimes it heats up, sometimes it doesn't. All lint has been cleaned out from the exhaust tubes, and the fan area. I did not go so far as to remove the drum. The reset button doesn't push, so that doesn't appear to be an issue.Thoughts. Our model is LG DLG1320W.
Great video. I followed your instructions and was able to replace all the parts listed. The problem is the dryer will turn on, but the drum will not spin (it spins by hand). What can I check or replace to get the dryer to work?
Great video. I have replaced the thermo fuse twice in the last two weeks. The dryer runs correctly for a few days after the repair and then stops heating again. The ducts are spotless. Would a defective heating element itself trip the thermo fuse twice in a short period of time?
My dryer was not starting, I had zero experience with that, but I found your video, follow your steps, and I fixed! My first time and it was a success thanks to your video. Thank you!!! :)
Hi I fixed my dryer with your vid back 11/2023. Bad thermal fuse so I replaced and went on my way. I also cleaned the inside bottom from lint. And even cleaned the heating element box and the exhaust pipe from out of the dryer to the outside. Its now Jan 2024 and the thermal fuse blew again. This time I ordered the whole heating assembly box that cones with the thermostat and thermal fuse and heating element . Any ideas on why the thermal fuse only lasted a few months?
thanks so much! I'm not one for RU-vid "tutorials" - as I prefer a good webpage with pictures, but the funny thing is, one of the other tutorials I followed years ago was how to take apart and fix my old dryer. now here again almost 10 years later i'm following another dryer repair tutorial!
Tried this fix and now I’ve gone through two fuses in two months. Odd. First time figured it was the shirt stuck around the lint pipe. But then two cycles later it’s no longer getting hot. I did the same thing in the video. Replaced the middle fuse. Should I have replaced the “thermostat” as well? The larger fuse in the back?
My LG dryer wasn't heating, this video was the first to come up on Google, and it worked great! helped me fix my dryer. I love RU-vid for DIY stuff! I'm never sure how to use my multimeter, I don't have all the symbols memorized, so when it came time to test continuity I asked ChatGPT how to use my multimeter, and it gave great instructions. Also, I vote for some human chatter during the videos - I often have to watch the video several times to get it all down, and it is much more enjoyable to watch with some fun commentary than just robot-mode.
Excellent video. My 3 year old LG ended up having the exact same problem. On a side note, all 3 wires (red yellow and blue) on the actual heating element had continuity. You mentioned in the video that this shouldn't be the case but it's working great now. Thanks again!!
Very helpful, I couldn’t do it without you! I was able to fix mine exactly as you showed, but the only thing I didn’t have continuity in the high limit thermostat and when I removed it I pushed that little reset in the middle, then I was able to get continuity again!so I ended up cleaning the dryer as you showed, closing it and it was running amazing again!! Only thing I recommend to people before they open it to check the reset button in the high limit thermostat l , but opening it and cleaning it is so worth it!!! Thank you so much!!!
This was perfect, thank you. What a blessing it was that the thermal fuse went bad... our dryer looked almost as bad as this one did on the inside. It's nicely.cleaned now, fixed, and it works!!
What a great help. I ordered all new heating parts and followed the video. Two hours later, my 15 year old dryer is now safe (no lint) and running perfectly. Kudos to you. Thanks Ted
Thank you, awesome video, very thorough...much appreciated... just getting an idea what im looking at in the future. My dryer is 13 years and rocking steady knock on wood, but I also keep it thoroughly cleaned the best I can. My only thought is that if/when I have to go into mine, I'm going to replace both elements and the belt just so I won't have to go back into it for a while... what do you think, waste of money or good idea? Thanks
Excellent video. Well explained. I have replaced thermal fuses on older dryers but my LG just stopped working last night and I had to search to see how to do it on one of these. Thank you very much.
Very helpful video. I ran the step by step procedure you recommended and just did the vacum cleaning eliminating all dust and fluff. I managed to put back all together again with no bolt o part remaining at the end. Saved more than 100 USD for the maintenance technician. Excelent video. Thanks a lot
Where is the high limit thermostat you link to? Didn’t see anything in video about that. My fuse is bad but Amazon link says can’t get those until June! Anyone know anywhere else to get them?? Note, that dryer you were working on must have had a hole in the duct somewhere. My dryer is almost 16 years old and the only thing inside was some dust and hair that obviously got sucked in through the bottom holes. NO lint or anything from within the dryer. I was very impressed!
Great video!!! I already ordered both parts. Had to wait til I went back to work to grab my multimeter. Will be doing this later when I get home. Definitely feel way more confident after watching your video. And please keep talking and being yourself. It's grueling to listen to robot like monotone people.
Easy fix, especially with the part link to Amazon. However, like a couple of people have mentioned, mine was installed Jan. 18th, ran fine, but went out again today, 6 weeks later. Same issue: no continuity, but continuity on element and other thermo. So gonna give this part one more try, since it is supposed to be an LG OEM part (Amazon The LG Store). Should arrive Monday. Would there be anything else that may make it blow so soon when the first original part lasted almost 17 years??? Interested to hear your thoughts.
Installed the 2nd Thermal Fuse, and it went out today. Now I see that my High Limit Thermostat has some black residue on the white leg of circuit and about 1/2" of the white plastic wire is melted a bit and that leg is extremely loose. Going to replace both items. Wondering now if that Thermostat, which still has continuity, cause the Thermal Fuses to blow??? Updated: went to remove the Thermostat and the entire thing broke apart in my fingers. DEFINITELY bad.
This video was excellent. Thank you for posting. Helped my fix my dryer and save money like the rest below. One minor item is the High limit T-Stat link you include in comments. It is 6931EL3001E which only has two wire crimp connection points. The T-Stat in your video (like mine) is a 6931EL3001F it has three crimp connector points. Not a big deal but for some looking to plug and play it will require some extra work. Thanks again.
Thank you for your excellent and informative videos. I had one question on this particular dryer - What if there IS continuity between the blue and the yellow terminals on the heating element? Does that mean there's a short and it needs to be replaced?
According to the service manual T1 is red, T2 is blue, T3 is yellow from top to bottom. T1 to T2 should be less than 18-22 ohms, T2 to T3 should be less than 18-22 ohms, and T1 to T3 should be 9-11 ohms. My T1 to T3 is at 41 ohms.....so I'm going to replace my heater and see if that fixes it. Mine is heating, but I don't think enough, hence assuming one of the two elements is not working well. Plus I also noticed that only one of the hot legs is drawing 23 amps, the other leg is drawing less than half of an amp.
@@hubertalvarez7884 appreciate the update. I saw that too and I wondered if that was the issue. Mine isn’t heating, but everything on the heater seems to read correctly on the multimeter.
Great video, very simple when you know how it operates and is assembled. Thanks My wife just informed me that our dryer has very low heat and takes to long to dry clothing. I'm assuming that half the heating element may be bad? Is that a logical conclusion? Do any models have thermal fuses to cover each side of the heating element?
Hi there! I have been following your videos over and over, using your knowledge, and still have the same problem. I don't know if my husband did something wrong when putting it back together, but since he cleaned the lint the first time, the sensor activates every time we dry a full load. He is getting tired of putting it apart and back together every week. He tested the heating element and works fine. Please tell us what to do. We are thinking on replacing it if this problem continues. I appreciate your time, answer, help, and advice. Have a great day!
Perhaps the vent to the outside of your house is clogged? Also as long as it’s taken apart, I’d test all the other parts. There are multiple sensors and fuses and such. And if it’s still getting lint inside, try to figure out where it’s getting through. Hopefully one of these ideas will help.
Dude, absolute lifesaver. This was exactly what was wrong with mine. Followed this and was able to fix it for $13. Have two extra screws left over from somewhere lol. Subscribed!
Thank you so much. Our dryer just stopped heating recently and now thanks to your video I feel confident in being able to fix it myself. Thank you very much.
Why would you not replace the thermostat next to it considering they come as a kit? Pluse why did you not just pull out the dryer, take off the pipe and replace it that way? Or are you doing it this way to charge an arm and a leg?
Thanks for the video! Have exact dryer, replaced whole heater assembly. Dryer ran without heat before. Got dryer reassembled, dryer turns on, does not run. All wires were reconnected. I did vacuum everything for 35 minutes, looks new. Now worse off than before. Any ideas?
My lg dlex3370w drum turns and the blower runs, but no heat. However, the continuity in the hi limit thermostat and thermal cut off are both good and have ohms reading of 0.0. The resistance reading for the heating elements are: Red and Blue: 19.9 ohms Red and Yellow: 19.5 ohms Blue and Yellow: 38.8-39.9 ohms Blower fan thermometer: 0.0 ohms Blower fan cut off: 0.0 ohms These codes are showing when I place it into diagnostics mode: 18:88, L18, U04, d04. Do these indicate any issue? Neither thermistor increases in temp, and in diagnostic mode it shows they’ll sit between 27-28C I was hoping for an easy fix. But yeah idk what’s going on.
Thanks for this video. Got my dryer blowing heat again and also found a replacement for a couple of drum wheels that were seized and worn flat. Very much appreciate this video. Keep up the great work
Do you have any advice for this situation? I have an LG dryer where the timed dry initially starts at 40 minutes, but will decrease to 20 minutes, then 10 minutes, and shut off way before 40 minutes is over. The clothes are still damp, but the moisture sensor indicator on the front panel isn't lit, we have to run several cycles before the clothes are actually dry, and yes, the heater element is working. What should I be looking for to fix this? Your assistance is greatly appreciated, thank you.
Fantastic video. Made taking apart the drying much easier. One note, my heating element shows continuity between all three wires. And, according to the wiring schematic in the dryer, the inner and outer elements should read with a resistance equal to the sum of the individual coils. My red to blue reads 20 Ohms, the red to yellow reads 20 Ohms, and the blue to yellow reads 40 Ohms. Had I relied on the continuity test alone, I would have unnecessarily replaced the heater. (Your electrical meter and mine may have different settings for "continuity."). My thermal fuse is blown. Given the low probability of the element shorting out and the thermal fuse blowing at the same time....I dug a little deeper. Again, excellent video.
Mine w as a different model as well but pretty much all the same. $11 in parts and a hour of labor and back to doing laundry! Thanks so much for the video. I would agree with some of the other comments that I had continuity between the two element coils but still worked fine.
Great video! I followed it all the way through, had the same issue, changed out the high limit fuse, cleaned out all the lint from everything, put it all back together and tried it out. It was heating so I threw in a load of laundry and it quit heating again. Any ideas?
I cleaned the dryer and replaced the thermal fuse on mine a week ago. Did a week's worth of laundry, and then it stopped heating again. For some reason, it's the thermal fuse again.
I went through this video and replaced the thermal fuse and the video is perfect for any LG dryer that looks similar. However, after I replaced it, I had the same issue after running it about 4 times. The dryer wouldn't heat. I opened it back up and sure enough the thermal fuse was bad. Short story, the high temp thermostat was likely also bad. If you are replacing the fuse, go ahead and replace the thermostat as well. They often come as a kit anyways and cost very little. The reason the the fuse popped was because the high temp thermostat likely wasn't always cutting off when it should. Basically as the temp approaches a certain temperature, the thermostat stops the heater for a little bit until it cools a little. So just go ahead and replace both. Also, inspect the actual heater. If any of those coils are sort of bowed up or down, they will likely touch the housing as they will be d more when heated. That could also cause the thermal fuse to pop. It is also easy to replace but costs a good bit more(still a lot cheaper than a new dryer).
Narrating what you’re doing is just fine. You’ll want to edit the videos a bit more perhaps but hey, I’m no RU-vidr I’m just trying to fix my dryer and I certainly appreciate you
My question is I have an LG Serial # 610kwxd73362 dryer. It dries on manual setting 60 min, however, no longer dries in antibacterial setting. It shuts off after 5 min.
_Great video clarity and explanations _Good presentation and video quality _You have made us confident in replacing the component in this video _Thank you for taking the time to explain and video each step in detail
This was exactly the same issue my dryer had. This video made it super easy to diagnose, purchase the part and replace it. Dryer is working great again. Thx!
Thank you! This is so helpful. What happens if there’s continuity between the red and blue, but not the red and yellow. That still needs replacement? Thanks.
According to the service manual T1 is red, T2 is blue, T3 is yellow from top to bottom. T1 to T2 should be less than 18-22 ohms, T2 to T3 should be less than 18-22 ohms, and T1 to T3 should be 9-11 ohms. My T1 to T3 is at 41 ohms.....so I'm going to replace my heater and see if that fixes it. Mine is heating, but I don't think enough, hence assuming one of the two elements is not working well. Plus I also noticed that only one of the hot legs is drawing 23 amps, the other leg is drawing less than half of an amp.
Extremely helpful video! I had exactly the same problem, and even though it was a different model I was able to buy a replacement fuse and get it back running on my own (also had the chance to give it a much-needed deep cleaning). Thanks a ton for sharing this!
Thank you for your guidance.. Great, short and simple (on the go) instructions for a DIYourselfer that can't afford a PROs service at the time. Thank you for helping lots of folks out there👍
Hello! Never worked on dryers before but I'm confident I could follow this great video!! However, my dryer is not the stack kind and the controls are at the back/top. Do you have any videos showing how to get into those dryers? It's and LG
Hi mate great video.I have the same tumbler dryer has the one in your video the problem I have is it’s not getting hot just blows Cold. But if you leave it for about a month and try it again it works for one load of clothes and when you come to dry the second load it’s just blowing cold again can you help.many thanks.wayne
Love the narration. Keep it up. I was gonna throw mine away n buy new BUT ill try n fix first. Mine thumps or rumbling sound so im guessing i need new belt too.
A loud rumblimg usually indicates one or more of the drum rollers needs replacing. Usually the right front one is first to go. I replaced only that one, and the noise went away.
My gf landlord has the lg dryer where you can’t turn the sensor off and it never senses how wet they are in the inside and lately it won’t dry at all and then it will start drying again out of no where. Any tips? Thanks.
So I used your video to pull the dryer apart. It was in fact my fuse, but I have another question. My multimeter doesn't beep for continuity, but instead has a numerical readout. It's 1 when there is no continuity, and other numbers when there is. So I tested the red and yellow and the red and blue. Both read 20. But when I test the blue and the yellow, it reads 40. I know you said there should be no continuity between those two. Does that mean there is? And what does that mean if there is?
Dude. That was a awesome vid. And no, you didn’t talk to much. Very informative! Thank you. Now gotta try and fix my LG Tromm. Runs but doesn’t heat up. Cld it also just need to be reset? Looked at other vids and a simple reset fixed theirs, especially after a power surge. Hopefully that’s all I need to do. On Tromm, electric dryer, to reset it do you just unplug and hold power button down for 5 seconds or does it actually have a reset button? Thank you in advance
Absolutely great Video but the feedback is so important!!! The person who commented above was 100% correct. Because I read his comment I saved $65 on an aftermarket Heating Element. My Ohms Tested exactly as his did, and all of my sensors had continuity. I just replaced the Thermal Fuse (High-Limit Thermostat) and the (Rear High Limit Thermostat) dryer worked perfect. I got one load of laundry out of it (I spent 2 days cleaning this thing to new on my deck leaf blowers etc) and poof it failed. I massacred the guy on Amazon where I bought these two parts for $10. Turns out that regardless of ALL THE TESTS - The High Limit (part being replaced in this Video) failed again. I have now bought two LG parts (as they lasted me 13 years no issues) - No I didn't spend $60 - I got a guy who sold them on eBay new LG for $20 for both....I will keep them on spare to see if it happens again. What I am testing now is if I bought too short of a new vent exhaust hose. The old one was such a fire Hazzard and about 8' - I went with a 3' and I wonder if there was too much tension etc on it. So I have pulled the dryer out so no kinks and see how long this Chinese sensor holds up again.
My LG Model DLE2301 smelt like an electrical fire and the airflow gauge quit working as well as no heat. There is strong airflow coming out of the dryer duct and the exhaust outside. Tomorrow’s project. Or, should we just go get a new one?
Please note a little history. First off, I had bought my dryer pre-owned. I had a technician already switch the adapter from natural to propane. Then, it seemed that the dryer did not heat "enough". So, he changed the ignitor. (I am assuming he had tested it.) It is still not heating properly. Now, before I take this apart and test the Thermofuse and maybe later, the heating element, is my little 20lb propane tank----like what one would use for a grill or RV, enough pressure to ignite the element?
Thanks. Was able to follow along and fix the dryer. With my dryer there were round access panels on the back lower sides for side venting. I opened one of those up and was able to watch the element kick in and off. Thanks again
Thank you sir!! My dryer is the exact same and has the exact same issue other than there being continuity between yellow and blue with 40 ohms but some other comments cleared it up!!! 13 bucks instead of a newer dryer, I can’t thank you enough!
Thanks , easy instructions in the video . I just changed the thermal fuse and dryer heats again . Not sure about the continuity in the element , i checked all three blue , red and yellow wires and they all had continuity , even blue-yellow . Does it means i shouldnt use it like that or just the element shouldnt work ? Because it works fine now .
so me and my husband were able to fix our dryer with your video, then it made it through half a load of laundry then went out again. so what causes the thermal fuse to blow again immediately??? we cleaned it and the vents completely while it was apart so it's not a clog... please help 🙏
