Lifetime Shed Reinforcing, Shelves, and a Wall 

Thank you so much. Wonderful explanation

Yea this is crazy unless you need to store extremely heavy stuff and even in that case would have been cheaper to build from scratch most of the way there already

Agreed. Why not just build a custom shed?

​@ts6640 you ain't building a custom shed for $400

I’m waiting for mine til next Thursday

Good eye Manny. I started with the front where the top rail was at an angle. It was much tougher connecting the bolts and the top rail. Therefore I quickly changed to the top rail mounting flat where I described how I mount the metal supports to roof. Only one board was done on an angle. Either would work but the flat method was considerably easier. Good luck with your project. jerry P.S. I didn't mention in the video but my concrete driveway was previously poured and not perfectly level. I debated on pouring a second foundation or another wood foundation. It turned out fine without all the extra work and no one would know unless they are carrying a level.

I would agree. I'm still waiting for my shed to come in, so I'm getting the platform done soon. I cant wait to use your method for reinforcing the shed, thanks again for the video and responding.

The reason I ask is I just got the same shed and love your design, and think I’m going to do a similar design.

@@sprather143 Hi Scott. Good question. I couldn't be happier! It was a good investment. Lifetime kept the weather out and the internal structure is excellent. Just use treated lumber against the floor and make sure you use the small diameter screws. I wouldn't "toe nail" anything. Use the Simpson's. None are splitting after 6 years. Good luck

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Hi Nathan. Seems to me if the simpson bracket which is L shaped were turned over (long side up) the wall would have to be shorter, which is O.K. but then for the simpson to go all the way against the plastic wall AND against the metal roof truss, you would still have to notch it so it wouldn't stick out over the 2 x 4 wall. Actually, you wouldn't have to notch it at all if you didn't mind it sticking out past the wall. But of course your buddies would ask, "Why is the metal connector sticking out?" HA! Also, once I marked the place for the metal connector to go I actually mounted it securely on the 2x4 on the floor first, then lifted it into place. Thanks for your comments. jerry

Hi John. If you spend the time and of course the money building a "inner shell" to the Lifetime shed I think you will be able to confidently say your shed will survive your UK winds. best regards, jerry

I bought a similar but smaller shed and in north Texas (Dallas) we get some ferocious spring time storms so this is what I did to secure it. The roof trusses have channels which drain to the the exterior. Mr. Benson attached his 2x4 to them. I had a 4 inch concrete base poured a foot longer than needed. I had an eye bolt 4 inches long with a 1 1/2 washer attached on the bottom with a couple of nuts sunk (3 inches in from the edge) into the concrete and aligned where the roof truss would exit the shed. When putting up the truss i ran an extra long 1/4 inch wire rope along it. The last thing I did after building the structure was to attach the wire rope to the eye bolts in the concrete with swages and saddle/u-bolt clips. Be sure to use thimbles to not kink the rope. The swages were really over kill. ;-) I tightened the rope with turnbuckles. be sure to "dry fit" the length before cutting. You can rent the wire rope cutter and swage crimper. I bought mine but I plan on building a couple more sheds.

Glad you asked. Outstanding! No issues what so ever. I'm glad I went this direction. jerry

Have you still got your re-inforced shed and if so, how's it coping? I'm from the UK too and thinking of getting one of these sheds. 😊

Hi Tim, I think the only time you will ever use their warrantee is if parts are missing, broken or bent or simply don't fit. If you are concerned after installation I would say if you ever decide to use the warrantee, don't ask them to cover the trusses. I have had it now nearly 5 years and am very happy. blessings. jerry

@@jerrybenson Thanks for your response, Jerry. I found that Lifetime sells a severe weather kit ($300) for an 8x10 shed but it seems some of that kit is secured to the plastic walls. Many reviewers of that kit complained about the difficulty of installation. Not sure it would survive 118mph winds as claimed by Lifetime (not too many sheds would). Your idea is, to me, much better. Cheaper (I think it cost you $400 for the 15' shed w/shelving and wall), sturdier and easier installation. I will be using your idea on my shed. Thanks again!

No doubt even the plastic will shift a little over time. The two together have to move together and do help keep everything square. It's been there 7 years and everything has shrunk together with no noticeable distortion. There are so many studs and everything is bolted to concrete. Once there are 4 walls all held together pretty securely it holds its shape quite well. I think that the wood probably shrinks more than the plastic but the wood holds it's shape and stays square. Because the plastic is assembled in many pieces it seems to float quite well inside the wooden frame. I think because of the sturdy wooden frame the plastic stays more square over time than without. Thanks for the comments. blessings, jerry

Hi Fotingo. You are correct. There was a larger shed in that exact position make of wood.Total cost was slightly cheaper and it was larger as well. But, It attracted termites that even liked treated lumber. Dry rot was also a problem. After about 20 years it was useless. It needed painting or staining from time to time and always looked like a wooden shed. This shed is now 4 years old with no termites or dry rot. It looks far more attractive from the outside than any wooden shed you can buy in big box stores. 2 sets of double doors, windows, skylights, shutters, two tone with realistic looking wood panels and gabled roof.. Like a little home. But you may have to learn what I learned for yourself. I wish you the best with your project.

As quickly as these shed are built and as strong as they are I prefer them over the wood kits. To each their own.

Actually, if you look carefully you can see on one end near the peak of the roof a round vent about 9 inches in diameter. There is one on both sides which seem to help alot. Plus the doors leak ;>).

Don't recommend this shed for florida -- it gets hotter there and plastic bends. The plastic pieces sat in sun while building and they expanded. Had to wait to cool down before could continue.

I spent less about $200 on 2x4's, Simpson ties, screws, and a couple of 16' 2x4's. Used some scrap plywood for shelves. Another $100 for electrical (wire, 4 20A outlets, 1 GFCI). And $99 for a 6 foot LED shop light.

Don't forget the price of the floor, just about the cost of the shed. Now add your time. You can get a pre built shed for about the same price, 3 times as good. 2x4 construction 16 on center, 1/2" t11 siding (not osb) floor plus 4x4 timbers, painted, shingled, delivered and set up.

@@340rps I had to replace a wooden shed that was in the same spot. There were serious problems with termites, dry rot, and paint. Plus it looked like a wooden shed. I built it this one mainly for the looks. If I had to build a wooden floor or pour concrete I would have second thoughts. It was a plus that the concrete was already there. I have another shed and 2 large gazebos all out of wood which all have had major upkeep and repairs in the last 30 years. But then again, who knows what plastic will be like in 30 years. ;>) jerry

@@340rps You thinking the floor costs about the same as the shed, and your idea a prebuilt wood shed would be the same price as a plastic shed shows you like common sense. For the sake of your neighbors I hope you don't ever try building anything in your yard.

You are correct. The total to modify the plastic shed and the cost of the shed isn't that much different than just building the shed from wood in the beginning. The biggest advantage is the plastic never needs painting. Does not fade or chip. Does not attract termites. Wood eventually fades, rots and is eventually eaten or at least affected by termites. I had a shed in the exact spot for about 20 years. It had much damage by termites and needed painting. The plastic is now 7 years old and has no noticeable wear, fading, or issues with termites. My opinion is looks modern and I like having it for a shed that doesn't look like a shed but rather a little custom house. Thanks for sharing. jerry

Hi Mike, My opinion is there would probably be no issues on the "perimeter" where all the studs are. Also, probably no issues on the area near the trusses. The problem would be the plastic roof between the trusses. The load that you are talking about would be equel to two grown men standing between the trusses away from the peak. I think there would be serious problems with that type of load. I think you could contact the manufacturer and ask them specifically. Hope this helps. jerry

My shed, bought in Canada, came with extra hardware to reinforce the roof trusses for snow loading.

At 6:46 you'll see black vertical pieces of angle iron he put on the wall that (earlier in the video) he claimed were "free". And I noticed his roof panels are missing the support pieces! I have a Suncast plastic shed and they're supposed to go on the roof. However my friend who weighs about 225 was on the roof the other day for about 20 seconds during assembly and it held him just fine before we installed those supports.

A little late now, but for anyone looking in the future, Lifetime sells a kit to increase the roof load capacity from 23 to 30 pounds per square foot.

I just counted and about 30 2x4s (without the wall), plus treated 2x4s for the floor. Plus plywood and screws about 4 boxes of 100 in a box. I used one half inch concrete bolts to bolt the treated wood to the floor. Of course if you buy from Home Depot they will take back whatever you don't use. Happy building, jerry

jerrybenson Thank you. at Home Depot now. thinking of cheap skating out on the Simpson brackets.....but better not...since I live in Tornado Alley oklahoma city. ;)

Find some partially skilled help. This is a big deal for someone without experience.

I don't like how it changes with temperature -- I would not use unless going to support with shelves. Just start building shelves in sections and then join them.

I would call this shed somewhat of a "fair weather" shed. Warmer climates. It can handle some good rains and modest winds. The roof pitch is not designed for deep snow as well. Snow is very heavy. I don't think a plastic shed is for you.

I'm sorry to hear. Did you have the Lifetime snow kit installed when it caved in?

My thoughts exactly... Why go through ALL that work only after many years of the UV rays destroying and dry rotting the plastic shed, when he pretty much build the frame inside of the shed. Might as well have built a wood shed and not have to worry about it again.

Good question. My shed is the same size but of course I put a wall up on one side. Have you thought of making one side of the shelf say 5 feet wide at the top. Opposite side 2 foot wide. Which give an 8' 2x4 between them. I don't think I would go wider than 10 foot span between shelves. This would give a 2' on one side and opposite would be 3' wide shelf. This would provide lots of shelf space without a support underneath. I think you would be disappointed if you only had a top shelf of 8 or 10 inches in width. Hope this helps. :>)

@@jerrybenson I wasn't clear thats for sure. I intend on running a shelf from left to right in the back, just like you did. The side door in my shed is on the right side as you enter. On the left side I will put up an 8 foot shelf, with a stud just near the window to the left as you walk in, running to the back wall stud. That shelf will be 16 inches as thats the room between the window and the left side of the shed. Not sure of the height of that shelf yet. Then, as you did, I will put a shelf on the back wall from the left side to the right side - thats 15 feet in length, and as deep as I can go to tie in at the side door jam on the right side (lets say thats 18 inches from door jam to the back wall). That front edge of THAT shelf is my concern. Does that need to be a single 13 foot +/- piece of 2 x 4? The back of that shelf will attach to a 2 x 4 that is secured to the back wall studs - same as you designed. At the top of the studs, where you use the simpson L bracket to attach to the rafters is where I was thinking of putting a 1 x 8 x 15 or a 1 x 10 x 15 piece of wood - the mini shelf, rather than the 2 x 4 like you used (I may only go 12 feet on that upper piece of wood as well?) I hope this clears up my plan and question about needing a single 2 x 4 x 13 front edge shelf support. Thanks for you quick answer tho!

@@tkstravels Sounds like your shed is near identical to mine. On the right side of door hinge is where I would begin your right side shelf with a 2x4 floor to ceiling stud. You could make it as wide as all the way to side door which would be 5 feet or any number in between. That way your 13 foot board would shrink to 8 foot for the front side of the back shelf. The front side of that shelf would go from the far left wall shelf to the beginning of the right side shelf, 8 feet. You could go as long as 10 feet in my opinion. When you open the side door your would see the end of the right side shelf. Depending on how wide you want it. If I didn't have the right side wall I probably would have made the right side shelf wider, say 3 feet. Are you sure you want the 1x8x10? For just a little more money and effort you could have considerable more shelf space. I have used all my shelf space and wouldn't change anything. It's nice having no floor supports in the middle of the shed as well. Hope this helps.

I had a shed up in the exact place made of wood. It lasted 20 years. Eventually dry rot, termites and time took it's toll. This shed looks cool, won't ever need painting. No dry rot or termites. It will die eventually but between now and then shouldn't need any attention.

I plan to do something very similar but I am going to put at least 3 coats of paint on wood. I have old metal shed that rusted and the only real way to protect wood is with paint. Treated wood does not last as long as painted wood. I , too , am in CA and worry about termites. Termites like new wood and don't seem to attack old wood or painted wood.

Man! If all trolls were that nice, the internet wouldn't have a troll problem :)

Use Hardie board lap siding or panels over plywood sheathing/30# felt. I took the old T-11 wood siding off the house and replaced with hardie lap siding. Then two coats of paint. Good stuff.

I just built an 8x15 from this company in 1 day including the treated 2x6 and plywood base. That is the biggest benefit. In total I have about 1500.00 and about 9 hours. If I built the shed I really wanted it would take a month with my work schedule and about 3k and with a contractor probably 4500k+.After seeing in person the way this thing is built I'm not worried about it's longevity either, it will serve it's purpose very well.

Thanks Allan. I'm glad it helped you. Have a great day. jerry

I would say that yes you could do 2x3. I don't know if you can get simpson ties that size. I do like the fact that the simpson screws vs nails look better and stronger. 2x4's are probably overall about 30% stronger. cost of course is a little more but I felt worth the extra. Keep in mind that a bigger shed like mine that you will span about 8 feet with no support underneath so the 2x4 would support a little more weight. I don't think you want a sag over time as well but yes I think it would be fine.

@@jerrybensonthank you so much for your insight!

HI Sumith. I think there is tremendous lateral strength added to the four walls with the large, heavy duty shelves on all three sides all bolted and simpson together. Plus in this case I have a solid wall divider. The plastic Lifetime shell that everything bolts too is immovable as far as lateral movement. Connected together... run for the LifeTime shed in case of earth quake. ;>)

Not! No roof no floor, no skins

I'm not sure exactly the problem joint but here are a couple of ideas. You could try using a two part epoxy in the plastic joint. Rough it up as much as possible and force the epoxy in the plastic joint. Go maybe 8 or 10 inches. Along with this or even by itself cut a piece of aluminum or steel maybe 10 inches long that overlaps the joint 2 or 3 inches. Drill maybe 5 holes on each side of joint and place your screws. Now you have 10 screws holding the joint made for 1. Make sure the holes in plastic are fairly small compared to the steel or aluminum to get all the grip you can. If you try using the 2 part epoxy with this make sure all the surfaces are quite rough and clean. If it works my name is jerry if not just call me robert. :>)

plastic is susceptible to heat --- not sure if I like this plastic shed -- the plastic bends -- not sure I would recommend this shed -- have not put the inner shelves yet -- I think that this is absolutely necessary. I would recommend an aluminum shed not this plastic -- I think that I will make some sort of outside reinforcement also --