An index for this video: 0:00 - 1:21 Overview of the movement and its worn pivot holes. 1:21 - 4:44 Removing external parts: wheels and levers. 4:44 - 6:31 Evidence of earlier work on the movement. 6:31 - 9:52 Checking for worn pivot holes in the time train. 9:52 - 10:26 An old bushing that was prick-punched into place. 10:26 - 13:01 Bushing: filing the unworn side of the hole to match the worn side. 13:01 - 15:39 Reaming holes for new bushings. 15:39 - 16:51 Installing the new bushings. 16:51 - 21:00 Broaching (enlarging) the new holes to the correct size. 21:00 - 22:11 Testing the new bushings; chamfering the new holes. 22:11 - 22:27 Reviewing the number of new bushings to do. 22:27 - 22:36 All wheels in position, ready for the top plate. 22:36 - 23:02 Testing the repaired movement, without chimes. 23:02 - 23:16 The completed clock chiming.
Always Sloppy Joes! Love the videos. This is the only reason I love youtube channels. I'd rather watch everyday working people that just do what they love or acquired skills, filmed far away from the model of network television shows.....No drama added, No agendas, no actors and lights... It's almost like a one on one. thanks
Thanks, I just love this stuff but have no hope of mastering these techniques so I'll just continue on vicariously. Love your concrete faux stuff too. Thanks for all and happy New Year
Very interesting to watch you work on this movement . Thanks for posting. I often wonder how these movements are assembled/mass produced in the "factory".
Hello mr. Don, I guess that clock had hardened arbors. I didn't know ball bearings were used in some clocks, but there's a lot I don't know. Hoping you're not getting tired of my questions. Surely I've seen most all of your videos on clock repair without ever hearing any mention of using ball bearings. Thank you for your videos
Great video as usual. Wondering where I could buy similar reamers, filet set, and smooth broaches? I found a set on timesavers called diamond reamers. I really like the ones you used
There are many sources of specialty tools. Here are some: timesavers.com/ ronellclock.com/ milehiclocksupplies.com/ blackforestimports.com/ www.merritts.com/merritts/public/default.aspx perrinwatchparts.com/ frankenmuthclock.com/
I recently bought a Mauthe triple chime wall clock with a FMS 1051-051 43 Cms movement, it did not have the chime barrel, do you consider that a barrel of a Hermle 1051-020 43 cm movement can replace?
If the numbering on the movement is correct, your clock's movement was made by Hermle and was made in the 1970's when Mauthe was using them to try to stay in business. According to the Hermle Service Manual, that movement number uses barrel #55, which is the same as that in the 1051-020 movement.
once again great video, I do have a question a 1051-030 I have it back together and is there a way to set the chime mine works great except the chime is out of sequence. Thanks as always.
You have to tell me what you mean by "out of sequence"? Do you mean it is chiming the wrong number of bars of music on the quarter hours or is it playing the wrong bars on each quarter hour? Watch this video segment on setting up the chime mechanism ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MRP41Qh9K4w.html Then, set the chimes to Westminster chimes, run the chime mechanism to the end of the first quarter or the end of the third quarter. The chimes should end in four descending notes. If it does not, loosen the set screw on the first gear on the back of the back plate and turn the pin roller until the four descending notes are sounded and retighten the set screw.
@@dperry428 It chimes the hour perfect the 1/4 hour 1/2 hour 3/4 hour and the top of the hour is off at the 1/4 hour it plays the last 2 notes then plays some of the next set its in the timing I was wondering if there is a way to set it correctly. Is there a way to correctly set it without trial and error?
As I said, go to the 1/4 hour and let it chime. Loosen the set screw on the first gear on the back of the movement that controls the roller with the pins on it. Rotate the roller until it plays 4 descending notes. Tighten the set screw.
Where have you sourced the round files that you use to even out the wear in the hole before reaming the pivot holes? Ones I've seen available are too big to fit in the holes.
Did you use cutting broaches to even out the worn pivot hole by cutting opposite to the worn side? I thought you used files for that but I want to make sure because having watched the video again, it looks like a very thin cutting broach. Thanks
Great video. Thank you for the information. I've just finished working on one of those 1050-020 and I am running into a problem. Cleaned, oiled and checked the pivot holes. Changed mainsprings with new ones. Problem is, when it chimes, the hammer ends rub against the chiming pins causing friction. causing the hammers to lift slowly or not move at all. I think the hammers are sitting too low because when I lift the hammers up about 2 mm and clear the ends a bit the clock chimes normally. I am wondering if there is a way to change the angle of the hammers to be sitting higher in order not to rub too much against the chiming pins. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The ends of the hammers opposite the heads are on the outside of one of the cylindrical shafts that hold the mechanism together. If those ends are bent slightly more toward the shaft, the hammers will rest slightly higher. If this doesn't help, put your email in a comment and I'll contact you and you can send pictures or video so I can see the problem you're having. No one but me will see your email address.
@@dperry428 Thank you very much for your help. I will try that. Are you talking about the L shaped tails of the hammers that go under the shaft/ post behind the chiming drum? I will try to bend those a bit forward towards the shaft. Thanks.
@@dperry428 It seems like it worked. Bending the hammers did reduce the friction. I am test running it and it has been running since yesterday with no problems. I did not fully wound the mainspring in order to see how the clock performed at low speed. Do you think the position of the chiming drum stopper would impact the friction. It is a little triangle shaped brass piece with a screw that is mounted on a steel shaft with a spring at the end of the chiming drum. It helps when you move the lever to change chimes. Do you think moving in or out the shaft would increase or decrease the friction between the chiming drum and the hammers? I really appreciate your help. Thank you very much.
I have the same movement in the clock I got from my dad when he passed away and the gear that the hands goes onto missing some teeth! Do you have any idea what that part would be called? I live not to far from mile high clock and I'm sure they would have it I just need to know what to call it
There are three parts that have gears for the hands. There is the hour wheel, which holds the hour hand and also has the snail attached to it, as well as a gear at its base. There is a center shaft, that has a gear at its base and hold the minute hand. There is an intermediate gear that connects the minute and hour. I would suggest taking the part off if it the hour tube or intermediate gear and taking it to the shop. If its the center, that is not easily removed and can only be done by disassembling the movement and having a puller to remove it.
I don't know, yet, if it's truly the hip joint that's a problem or the condition I have (polymyalgia rheumatica). I couldn't get an appointment for initial orthopedic consultation until December 23. I'll be doing another cuckoo clock video soon.
@@dperry428 Good luck with the hip.Hope you don't have to have surgery. i will watch for the cuckoo video. Merry Christmas to you and family. Have a great time with the little one from Santa.
@@rehorneman X-ray showed bone-on-bone. Doctor wants to do cortisone injection to relieve pain long enough for me to do physical therapy to strengthen muscles before replacing the hip. Couldn't get an appointment for the injection until February 3. Meantime, weekend before Christmas, I was in hospital for testing for what turned out to be "transient amnesia" caused by a small stroke. It was a momentary thing that affected my ability to remember what I read. Lasted about an hour. Good part was I had a brain and carotid artery CT scan, MRI, EEG and echo-cardiogram and have no brain tumors, no epilepsy tendency, clear carotid arteries and a healthy heart. They found a small "lacunar infarct" in the basal ganglia of the brain. So, now I have a appointment with a neurologist next week. Hell to get old, but it beats the alternative. Meanwhile, I'm working on a New Haven tambour mantel clock and another cuckoo clock.
@@dperry428 OH MY!!! You have been through a lot.Good luck with the cortisone injection and the neurologist next week. For sure I will watch your upcoming videos.
See a really good there mate keep up there good work on RU-vid form greg Bouchard hove a good day mate form greg Bouchard u do a relly good job on RU-vid form greg
I've talked about it in comments before, but I'll reiterate. When I got out of the Air Force in 1966, my wife and I moved back near her parents. Her father was a machinist who had a neighbor that collected clocks for whom he made clock parts. My father-in-law knew I did artwork and asked if I would do some work for the clock collector by re-inking some clock dials and doing some reverse paintings on clock glass panels. I was impressed with the man's collection of hundreds of clocks and the clocks themselves. As a scientist, I was fascinated by the mechanics and physics of them. When he asked what I wanted as payment for my art work, I asked for a junk clock that could be fixed up for my wife and me. My father-in-law got me started by showing how to fix the movement and case and also taught me to use a lathe and milling machine. It wasn't long before I started buying my own clocks at auctions and flea markets to fix for my own collection. By 1968, it had become a hobby that stayed with me all these years. I joined the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) in 1972 and continued learning about clocks by reading their materials and journals. I never made a business of clock repair but, it doesn't take long for word to get around that I could repair them and I've fixed a lot of clocks for relatives, friends, neighbors, acquaintances and just about anyone who needs a clock fixed but can't afford to have it done professionally. So, essentially, it was a favor for a friend of my father-in-law that gave me a life-long hobby to enjoy.
Apologies if you had posted this before - watched a lot of your videos but not read all the comments. See I was thinking you were a retired clockmaker. I like your clock videos - they contain a wealth of information. (Not even finished this video yet - got interrupted, cats know nothing about personal space and timeout lol ...). @@dperry428
No apology necessary. After military, I was a science teacher and sometimes used clocks in my classroom to illustrate physics principles, such as pendulum and mechanical advantage. I also had an antique oak time clock that the students used to love using to timestamp their hall passes.
Clock repair costs depend on the going rates in your area and how much work needs to be done on the clock. With labor costs being what they are, it might be cheaper to replace the movement. A new one is $350 to $400. You'll find repair costs likely to be about the same or more. Check out you local repair shops. www.yelp.com/search?cflt=clockrepair&find_loc=San%20Francisco%20Bay%20Area%2C%20CA&sortby=rating
I have this same clock movement It's in a Linden clock. Found it at Goodwill for $9.99. It is complete and looks very nice. The escapement is broken however. Any idea where I can source one?
Sorry, I didn't look to see which movement this was. I assumed it was one with a balance wheel. There are several options for you, some cheap, some expensive. I don't know what you mean by "escapement is broken". That could mean any number of things. I'll assume the escape wheel is damaged. You can have a replacement made (very expensive), you can buy another movement on ebay for parts and use the part needed from that (usually not too expensive). You can look to see if what you need is found here: www.merritts.com/merritts/public/productlist.aspx?CategoryID=1142 You can call them and ask for diameters of specific tooth numbered wheels to see if there is a match and also to ask if they carry Hermle parts.
You can also do a search for "escape wheel" at timesavers.com/ You'll need to know the diameter of your escape wheel and the number of teeth on the wheel to find one that might be compatible.
I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean by "five and eight movements". If you're referring to the tunes other than Westminster, I don't even try to set the hammers based on those. I simply set the pin roll to the Westminster and go to either the quarter hour or the three quarter hour and turn the cylinder until I see four hammers falling in sequence since that is how both the quarter hour and three-quarter hour chime ends.
Are you asking what tune it plays? If it's a triple chime movement with 8 hammers, it will play one of 3 tunes, depending on the position of the pin cylinder; Westminster, Whittington, or St Michael. Read this: www.clockguy.com/SiteRelated/SiteReferencePages/ClockChimeTunes.html
Not from this clock; it's back with its owner. If you want to hear other chime sequences, do a search for Whittington, St Michael's, and Canterbury chimes. I only do the Westminster because it's easy to set the proper sequence on the quarter hour since Westminster has a simple sequence then of four descending notes.
