you guys are Killing it! great video! I feel like you could interact for 2 or 3 hours. I took Steve's recommendation and bought a CP108LG-W3v3 subwoofer. Thank you Steve!
I really appreciate this video! The info discussed in planning the build really has helped in rethinking some of the items I was planning on getting. I have a new accord hybrid, so I definitely need to be careful with amperage draw.
@@JLAudioInc Your opinion/advice would actually be greatyly appreciated... I'm going to be powering a set of components in the front, these have an RMS of 100, and was thinking of using the JL XD700/5v2 to power them active and run a sub rated at 2 Ohms. I'm trying to keep amp draw low as it's a hybrid. Would the XD700/5v2 be too much for my Hybrid's system?
I'M going to Run a RD 1500/1 and a HD 600 x4 I just did my equation and im going to have a estimated current draw of 126 on a 160 amp alternator . do I need to do the big three
I’ve run JL since I had 10 W5s , 2 questions I have a set of 12w1 s version 1 surround rotted out can I get them reconed & how much? Second? Are the HD amps similar to the old PPI PRO MOS ?
Thank you for reaching out and we greatly appreciate the continued support throughout the years! Those may be questions better suited for our tech team. You can reach out to them here: jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/requests/new
I live in Michigan and bought all my JL Audio from Mickey Shorr, which is a chain store here in Michigan. They show on their web site they no longer carry the 13w7. Are you guys going to discontinuing this line of subwoofer? If so, what will be replacing it?
Thank you for reaching out and for your inquiry. We are not discontinuing the W7 line. At this time we have received much higher order volumes than anticipated and are working to ensure all orders are met as quickly as possible. Please keep checking with your local authorized dealers as we are prioritizing dealer and distributor inventory and they will be the first to receive product. You can find a list of local authorized JL Audio dealers here: www.jlaudio.com/dealers
Thanks for the inquiry! Here is a link to school of sound from our help center. jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/360011290434/School-of-Sound-2018.pdf
James, we apologize for the inconvenience. Orders have begun to roll out but they are being fulfilled as quickly as possible in the order that they were received. We greatly appreciate your continued patience.
So what if you have an amplifier that can handle 3,000 Watts at 2 ohms or 2,000 w at 4 ohms and your subwoofer setup could be 2ohm or 4ohm would it still have the same bass if I put the sub towards the 4 ohm load instead of the two ohm load I do understand that if it's on the 4ohm load it'll be much better efficient.
The same subs on 2,000 watts would have slightly less output potential than at 3,000 watts due to less power. Most amplifiers have similar efficiency whether running at 4 ohm or 2 ohm, but since at 4 ohm the amp would be producing less power you should be drawing less current just because it is less power being produced. Most respectable amplifiers would also have similar sound quality whether being run at 4 ohm or 2 ohm.
Figuring out why the music you liked sound terrible in a good system is always put a huge dark mark under my eye. But, the fact, nowadays everybody uses spotify which had a variety of quality (mostly worse) or directly downloaded uploaded music from your favorite video streaming websites and playing it using a crappy Android Head Unit (scuse-me) creates a whole different problem doesn't it? How about a video on about playing the worst possible digital audio material (in bitrate quality) in a very-very good system. So it would give a glimpse about how important the material program are. And yes. DSP is not a magic tool that you can just "slap it" and expecting it to do all the hard work that you had neglected at the installation process. Hoping somehow the problem will be repaired by an invisible genie. In fact, the more tinkering, the deeper you will sink into the rabbit hole. Great Video, Good Perspective, and Nice Common Sense. Thanks.
We really appreciate your feedback on this one. And you're right - different platforms will have varying qualities. It would be an interesting point to touch on. We're happy you enjoyed the video. Again, thanks for the input and thanks for watching!
I've heard that having the main power wire next to the signal wires (rca) would create unwanted noise. Would the same be true having the "augmented ground" next to the signal wire?
All JL Audio amplifiers have differential/balanced inputs that should reject any noise that could get induced into signal cables. Plus if twisted pair RCA are used these would further reject noise, so it isn't as critical to have power and signal cables separated. If you can, great, but in most cases you still shouldn't have noise.
To add to this, if your equipment is in good working order and you have proper grounds,you should be fine. Remember there is a lot of wires throughout your vehicle that have power flowing . Nearly Impossible to avoid all wires carrying power in vehicles. If installed properly you should be fine.
The HD are tightly regulated, so they can be demanding on stock electrical. It would depend on the vehicle, listening style, music, etc. You can always email us for more details if you would like.
Hey Team JL-I am currently using an HD750/1 to power a pair of 10W3v3s I would like to realize a difference in the sound of my bass Can I use the same HD750/1 to play a 12W7ae although I know the sub will be underpowered? If not-can you tell me what sub/subs I can use ?
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