Hey Randy, being a vegetarian, I should not use the figure of speech but 'you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear!' This seems very fitting and you gave it your best shot young man shout of machining a new tube. Good job sir and I learnt lots. Keep sharing. PS congrats on bursting the 8k subscribers mark!!!!
Thanks for sharing Randy. I always learn something new when I watch your videos. I now understand the inner workings of the collet closer, and loved the tig welding bearing repair. Joel....
Nice repair, Randy. Lots of little tidbits of information that I didn't know about using a collet closer as well. Hope you get the last little bit tracked down but it seems like it's doing the job now with just minimal vibration. The handle jumping like that would have had me jumping for the E-Stop! Sincerely, Tom Z
Thanks Tom for visiting. The closer is working quite well now, but I will get to the runout issue after I get this batch of scribes made. Not to scary just caused the closer to open and usually screw up the part you are trying to make.
Randy, congrats on the ever growing subscriber count reaching 8k! Keep on trucking and you will soon pass 10k on your way to 100k. All it takes is to keep being yourself and sharing what you do as it helps and inspires others more than you will ever know. Nice repair job!
Randy, Compared to vibration before the repair, you are 1000% better. Chasing the source of vibration can get pretty frustrating but I think your solution for making a new tube will fix solve several remaining issues. I guess you will have cut a hole in your shop wall for the 10" feed stock tube :-) . I think Keith Fenner did something like that for his "American" Pacemaker lathe. Great instructional series and thank you for all the details. Now, I have to stop watching RU-vid and fix the vibration problem in my Hayward variable speed pool pump - won't know for sure until I open it up. The joys of owning a pool! Thanks for the collet closer series, Paul
I opened the pump and discovered the upper neck of the diffuser (spx32000b3) snapped off but did not cause any damage other than lots of vibration noise. I thought the motor bearings were bad so this problem is so much better than what I expected to find. A $28 part with Amazon's Prime so I am happy.
Okay the video is over four years old. But Very good work, Randy! I would have been "that guy" that stuck the shells in a vise and squeezed them shut the twenty thou. and then bored.. I needed the indepth assembly to the lever release as I wanna get one for my ol' Sebastian ~13" along with threading head to be able to make studs of various lengths and Ubolts as well. Great videos.
Nice two-part video, Randy. Thanks for sharing. I suspect that you will eventually want to build a new tube to the right length and amount of threads to catch the collet, etc. That would be interesting to watch. Anyway, it looks like this repair has got you a much better working collet setup than before. Cheers! Joe
Randy: This is a very timely video for me... As I a m adapting a "Precision brand" quick change rig for "who knows what lathe" back in the day....to my Atlas / Craftsman 12" all the parts are there except the... as you show it ROND arm connecting the release lever behind lathe headstock... Im making mine out of square stock... I.E. Principals are the same.... Also the Precision uses a 2 piece "keyed" spiral split to do the tensioning to the draw bar..... Ill let you know !!! and send picts. when I get it done.... Thanks Brian F... AKA GUSMIX
That was a nice repair Randy, it certainly looks to have been effective. Congratulations too on the 8,000 subscribers... well deserved, keep up the good work.
Hi Randy, Good repair in the end, you can always expect a tiny vibration, this should not affect the result... Great choice about using bronze, brass doesn't last even with lubrication, way too soft... This summer will be a Wright rollers Bash, everyone at the same time, see who gets the best job done... lol Cheers, Pierre
If there is to much vibration it causes the closer to pop open. I agree about the bronze/brass. The vibration is tolerable now, but I will look into either getting the runout down or build a new tube. The bore of the tube does not need to be as large as it is thus get more wall thickness and a stiffer tube. I use a delrin bushing in the end to help guide the stock also, that helps. Sounds good for the challenge on the wright rollers. Thanks Randy
+Randy Richard You may also be experiencing a resonant frequency issue with that long handle. This can be checked by hanging a small (1 or 2 lbs) weight on the end by the ball. Just in case nothing else works. Thanks, John
great repair Randy. Im no welder by any stretch of the imagination but maybe a little preheat on those bearing halves would of helped you. I often use an old toaster oven to bring up the thicker parts to 350 or 400. it really helps, especially in thicker Aluminium. Cheers
Yep you are right, preheat would of helped here. I started with to low of amp at the start. I should of practiced on a similar piece of metal first to get setting right. I have now earned my red Bozo Nose award. Next will be the red shoe award.
+Randy Richard No preheat was necessary on these pieces. They are not big enough to require the procedure. Randy and I talked a bit about it, and hopefully my suggestions will help for the next one!
Thanks for the explanation of why you'd have that collet closer, and the stock feeding mechanism, because I couldn't for the life of me figure out why you'd need to keep the lathe running. I knew it must have something to do with you turret attachment, but still couldn't see a benefit over a collet chuck until you ran through it. I do have a couple of questions about the bearing repair...do you think that would work well enough for the bronze bearings in my South Bend's headstock? And if so, could I used LFB to build it up, or should I get some Silicon Bronze? I'll make a video of the problem I'm having and maybe you could look at it to see if you think a resurfacing of the bearings will help me, or if it's something else. Thanks Randy...Aloha, Chuck
That looks like it works pretty well now. At my new job I have the MSC knock off of the hardinge hlv-h. The closer is different than yours but I think can be operated with the spindle going. Is the idea that the closer has enough travel to let the stock loose so it can be advanced? That seems kinda sketchy to me as sometimes the material can be fairly snug in the collet even with it loose all the way?
Yes it is work 100 times better now. Yes that is the idea. With a pneumatic feed tube it is always applying enough pressure on the stock to be able to advance the stock when the collet is opened. I will have to show my feed tube. you usually only have a couple of psi on the piston. Some times the stock is a bit tight. A lot of modern machines use and older screw machines use a stock puller instead. So from the tooling side one of the tools is a stock pulling tools.
I might have tried squeezing those half circles in the vise to close the sides before boring. Squeeze a little; measure; squeeze a little more; repeat until the side to side measurement is just a little less than the diameter of the slide on the closer. Then bore to fit just as you did.
Sintered bronze (Oilite and the like) would probably fracture. "Real" bronze (copper/tin alloy - 907) tends to deform and work harden under pressure. This is why I like it so much; you can see that the piece has been over-stressed before it fails catastrophically. That's why it makes good marine hardware. It would be difficult to say exactly which alloy you have there so maybe better safe than sorry. It looks as though your solution worked.
Since the bearings are split and still gaping at the ends, the bore is not round anymore. Would lapping them to the hub be an option? I know you wouldn't want to wear the hardened hub out. Conversely, is there run out in the hardened hub? The bore may not be concentric to the OD of the bearing surface.
Since the ID at the splits was quite a bit oversize I could not bore to fit. The hardened hub is round. You do not want to lap or use abrasive on soft bearing materials, Bronze. brass, babbitt, etc. cut to size or scrape. You will embed the abrasive in the bearing material. Thanks Barry for the visit.
I was concerned about that, hence the question. I wasn't sure if the abrasive would abrade the softer material or do as you pointed out and stick in the soft stuff and abrade the harder material. Good thing you know and didn't try it at my suggestion..
Hm, just a thought, mainly because i've no idea if something like this would even be feasible, but, what if, instead of buying rod stock and cutting the part from that, well, what if you bought flat stock and bent it? I mean i know it's quite a bit of work, but would it offset the cost or even work?
This material is not very ductile and would be very difficult for me to form it. The welding repair is working very well so for now I am happy with this repair.
