Best way to remove the bolts is to heat em up and loosen em little by little when its starts getting hard to crank, heat em again crank and repeat till they're out.
Anybody who wants to attempt this, remember the heat will make the metal softer, so be gentle! Stripped bolts suck, re-drilling also sucks. Heat does help for sure just be careful! You’ll know when the metal is too soft.
If we are all being honest he should just let his local exhaust shop put them on they have the tools and knowledge to get this job done especially with 1 bolt already being broken off more will probably break in the process of removing and it’s just gonna end up wasting a lot of his time and causing a huge headache I did the headers in my 2004 avalanche I had it had 2 broken bolts already none of the other ones broke during removal but those 2 that I had to tap where a nightmare no space to really work.
someone said drive the truck for 20 mins or warm it up then go in and loosen bolts let it cool then remove headers . the engine gets nice and hot the bolts come out easily .
If you're going to do a cam swap just do the headers at the same time. That way if you bust off an exhaust bolt you can just pull the heads off and it'll make it easier to get the broken bolt out plus everything else easier anyway. You're going to have to change valve springs and measure for new pushrods so you may as well change out the head gaskets at the same time and just be done with it.
Foreal if people are going to cam a vehicle might as well do the heads makes it more reliable with that extra power you get new head gaskets in the process too.
I’d recommend getting lap joint clamps instead of the ones they provide. They get the job done on connecting the exhaust but typically have leaks. Lap joints are definitely the next best option and you can find them on Amazon. I got these headers on mine
Also!!!! Get some heat wrap for and and all trans lines that are going to be close to the exhaust. I had to do it after I installed so it’d be a great time to do them while you have the room. It’s not necessary but a good way to reduce heat from the new headers/exhaust
Shoooot last thing, if you go to put these on and they hit the frame, check your motor mounts. You might need to get new ones and they should give you the extra room if they are needed
I used to have an 03 Silverado and I put long tubes on it. It was awesome, and you HAVE to fire it up with just the long tubes on cause it’s loud and so rowdy. I would suggest getting some spark plug wire boots so that the spark plug wires don’t melt when/if they lay against one of the tubes!
Hey! Make sure to clean off the headers before you start it the first time. If not you will get the nasty brown color you were mentioning. If you’re thinking maybe a baby cam for it, I recommend the Truck Norris cam from BTR. It gains more power in the entire power band which you never see in a bigger cam from stock. Also you don’t need a stall with it. On top of that you also get more power then the stage 3 cam which is insane. That is what I’m running in my 13’ 6.2L. But it will work on your application as well. It would be awesome for that truck!
Also muffler wise, I ran a corsa universal muffler. I ran true dual so it was stupid expensive. But with you running into a Y pipe, and only needing one it would be cheaper for you. The universal muffler is very similar to a straight pipe because it’s a blow through muffler. But it takes a lot of the raspyness out. When you get headers it will be ridiculously loud (which I like) but you won’t be able to hear yourself think when you’re driving down the road lol. I also have an X pipe to give it that more sporty sound and it sounds awesome! I get compliments all the time. You should definitely look into it!
Spray the hell out of them for weeks, it's not gonna hurt. Then when it comes to, make sure you get them cherry red and slowly back em out bit by bit. Back and forth if ya have to, will go easy but slow! Good luck man, it's gonna sound great!!
Start soaking the manifold bolts in penetrating fluid multiple days in advance. Also might look into some spark plug wire heat boots. Have been contemplating getting the same exact headers for my '01 Rado
I’ve installed 5 sets of speed engineering headers 3 of which being Silverado no complaints use the multi layer steel gaskets not the ones you showed won’t hurt spraying the bolts and heating them those headers come from the bottom up may have issues with the dipstick tube but being a southern truck hopefully not
up here on nb Canada we cut thr heads off the once u pull the manifold off. they will spin right out with a vise grip or a easy out. iv dove all kinds... good luck I hit them with air chisel and the vise grips get them every time. ....
Start spraying manifold bolts. If you do break them you don’t have to be any special welder to do it. As for the gaskets, throw them out. Get OEM. Tuning wise, I would suggest against a mail order like tuning. But if by email you meant remote tuning which would require hp tuners, then that’s definitely a fine option. Or just go local for tune.
Starting ASAP whenever the truck is cool start spraying pb blaster on it and let it soak as long as possible everyday and go ahead and go get yourself an extractor kit incase you need it and if you don’t at least you’ll have it for the future and tip I heard from an older guy if you actually tighten a little before you try to losen it it will help and just go back and fourth
Blackbear performance for the tune hands down if going email tune. You can also data log and send it in for adjustments. I definitely would not weld the y pipe up. If you ever have to pull the trans you’ll be cutting it up to remove it. I’d also run GM MLS gaskets too
I got these for my 02 Silverado. Passenger side for perfect and drivers side was a little rough but not terrible. They sound awesome and definitely a low end power difference.
I got the 1 7/8s for my camaro ss, if you go about installing them yourself i just recommend to be careful of sensors on and around the head make sure you don't break them off, other than that man the gaskets are holding up nice its been 8 months and fingers crossed everything has been perfect. Depending on how close the spark plug wires are to the header id just run up to the auto parts store and get a pack of the heat shielding boot covers and good to go
Use multi layered steel gaskets like oem, the ones they said are junk and will leak, the clamps they send suck aswell so I went with v bands but there is better clamps out there if you don’t want to go that route. As for bolt removal just send it I’ve removed tons of manifolds if there gonna break chances are they’re already ready to break off. 9 times outta 10 they’re okay to come out.
I've been running the Speed Engineering Longtubes for little over 2 months on my 07 gmc classic. Honestly no complaints, Install wasn't too bad I did some trimming on the passenger sider header to make the y pipe slide on. You are suppose to drop the Trans crossmember but there was no way I was getting my self into that. Got the same gaskets, really no issues with them, so far they do last from what I'm seeing. The exhaust clamps are no good they don't seal for crap. You are better off getting some wider exhaust clamps or getting all the piping welding which I would prefer over a clamp. You will need the Truck Tuned for them obviously. Over all I've had a great experience running them I do have the exhaust ran out the side as a single with no muffler, basically straight pipe, I will not lie its loud asf but sounds really mean and aggressive. I do feel true duals with the longtubes will make it sound 10x better along with a good muffler or resonator.
I bought speed engineering headers for my C10 LS swap project. They are out of Fresno, CA so not to far from where I’m at in Cali. Great product and have yet to fire up the truck.
You should take some time and read up on this , and think about getting a new true dual exhaust if you have the factory single exhaust , that way you can put in the " X " pipe and gain some torque and HP , the point in going to headers is to open up the breathing of the engine , and going through single exhaust will not allow the full breathing to happen , and get 2 1/4 - inch diameter pipes from front to back ,( if you can affored it get stainless steel you won't have to replace it as it last very very long time ) maybe the tail pipe could be 3 inch , There is a science to this and the more you know the better , tuners like HP Tuner or EFI Live allow you to connect a laptop to the OBD2 port and you get to see live data so you can see what needs adjusted
Chomper ain’t chompin yet… love it!! This is going to be quite the awesome build!! And any update on your new truck yet?? Maybe a video talking about it?? Keep up the incredible work 👍
Highly recommend Accel ceramic boot spark plug wires I kept melting wires even tried the high temp sleeves and they helped a little but still melted wires
My 05 has shortys, cold air intake and a blackbear tune. Pretty noticeable over factory. Just want to get it geared to 4.10s. Right now it’s still stock 3.42s and leveled with 33s and 20s.
4.10 with automatic transmission , ? u like living dangerously lol , that will force the engine to run higher rpm on constant basis , consider adding an overdrive unit if you want to go that route as it will save your engine
@@danzare5638 it has overdrive and wouldn’t be much higher rpm’s. Some of those trucks came with 4.10s from the factory. I think it would help with the bigger tires and wheels.
@@mattcox3373 it was the 6.0 that came with 4.10s , it can work if you check the math of the gearing in your trans , and yea it was with the bigger tires and wheels , it depends on the gearing in the transmisson 4.10s = 1 single rotation of the tire = 4.10 rotations of the driveshaft 3.42s = 1 single rotation of the tire = 3.42 rotations of the driveshaft driveshaft connected to the transmission is the physical force that will be interacting with the engine , with a manual transmision it is much easier with a manual clutch the torque converter in a automatic is also called a torque multiplier and cannot disenage like a manual clutch , unless you put it in neutral in many cars when going with the higher number gearing , when accelerating the gear shifting has to be done sooner because the engine is reaching it's upper limit much faster , and some guys still wind it out like they did with the older gears and find it caused excessive wear on the internals of engine , sometimes spinning bearings , all depends on what you want to use it for and where , you can get the specs on whatever trans you use and it will list the gearing for each gear , then you can calculate which final ratio is best for your needs Happy Gearing !
Spend an extra $600 and have them powder coated. I'm a VA boy, we always used Hanover powder coating in Richmond. Those gaskets are great but make sure to get a bolt kit with locking clips (Keeps the bolts from backing out). After you get the old bolts broke lose, it's usually easier to take the hood off and lift the engine out. Bolt the new headers up but don't tighten all the way. Most of the time you'll need that play to get them in and lined up. I also agree with finding an exhaust shop and do a true dual. Flow master has some good muffler options.
Not going with the true duals or "Corvette" exhaust? Then it'll sound really really good. Keeping the same length pipe from left and right is important with that. As far as the broken exhaust manifold bolt, that's pretty common on the 5.3's and are pretty easy to remove the broken stud. Simple punch and hammer and I got mine out but you can drill/tap a reverse style threaded bolt/screw and they come out pretty easy. Heads are aluminum so a night sitting in PB Blaster usually does the trick at breaking those out easy.
If the bolts do snap off while taking them out you can use a pair of vice grips if it snaps outside the block. If it snaps off flush or inside the block the your best bet would be to weld a couple tack welds on top of each other and it’ll come out (it might take a couple tries). The last option would be to re-drill the hole out but there’s high risk of messing the block up
I ran true dual magnaflow bullets with long tubes and it sounded insane even after the cam I left it like that and after awhile I put an x-pipe to clean up the sound a little but it still has a clapping sound on acceleration
different trucks but I did it by myself on my ‘84 and that truck is 38 years old you just have to be really careful taking the bolts out I didn’t have one break thankfully but then again my truck only has 100k miles
I have a 2006 GMC Sierra slt 4wd exact same truck but it’s has steel grey metallic paint and I have the last two manifold bolts on each side broke off. So I am putting some short tube open headers on it for the time being. And soon my 3 inch level will be on!
Spray them the night before when you are taking the bolts out if they start to jam up turn them back and forth heat And spray them throughout if needed.
ive gotten the same exact headers ......ive been hitting the bolts with pb blaster and will continue to do the same......installing them memorial day weekend .....ill let you know how i make out.....keep up the great content
I hope I can get my hands on a truck like this next week I’m going to see two that I saw for sale on Facebook hopefully I can get it for a good price if one is in semi good condition
I got the same headers on my 03. I recommend getting better clamps than the ones that come with the kit. I spent hours trying to fix exhaust leaks where the clamps go with the clamps they supply
Email vs Dyno tune: Dyno tunes are good because you can easily see the results right in front of you. However, they can only tune the truck for parameters that the dyno can handle. For wide open throttle and some daily driving, this is fine. Email tunes are a lot better in my opinion. You can datalog normal drives, wide open pulls, or any other scenario you drive in, and they can optimize the base tune to fit your truck. Hard to do that on a dyno.
A good dyno tuner will keep the truck for a few days and drive it on the street or drive it home and data log. To dial the MAF in is about 3 revisions and the VE takes longer. Also if its a loaded dyno they can hit all the VE cells where an e mail tune won't. I have had both and now tune my own and I can say some of the e mail tunes I've looked at were just wrong. There are good ones but the dyno shop would be my bet if I paid somebody for it.
is the pressure of the manifold pushing on the head of the bolt that makes them brake cut the heads all off that heats them a bit hit the end with hammer while u crack it free if u have to. we love in nb a rust b3lt and they always come our if u knock the heads b 4 they break where u can t get a vise grip or easy out on them..
I just paid 2200 for front wheel Bering a and manifolds, 3 of the 4 bolts were snapped on both sides, meaning 6/8 had to be extracted. Thing was in the shop for a week
Pb blaster everyday till you do the install, thats what i did for about a week and i didnt snap any bolts doing mine and i had 3 bolt heads snapped off already and i just took vice grips and took out the rest of the bolt
PB Blaster is a good idea , you may need a torch to heat up the manifold bolt , they can be a real bear and need a torch on them to get them out , you may want to ask around at muffler shop to get a price on getting the manifold bolt out sometimes it is better to pay someone than DIY , if the price is liveable ,
Heat them, hit the bolts ratchet with a hammer as your taking the bolts out and go back and forth(tight and loose) till the bolt comes out, and repeat. Long process but easier than removing broken studs
Driver side was easy but passenger side i had to take off starter flywheel cover dipstick and make sure to remove your plugs so you dont break them like i did
Use oem gaskets not the ones they offer and get a set of arp bolts have had mine on my 13 Silverado for almost a year now with no issues even with it hitting the frame due to bad motor mount also get some vband turbo clamps and use those so you can still remove it easily if needed and I’ve noticed mine done leak like most clamps also before I got mine installed for 3 days I sprayed wd40 on my bolts before it got installed also for intake manifold get a tbss or 07-13 intake manifold it’ll help it out big time
I love the videos I can’t wait to see more content you put out but some time like this video I would do a reveal of the headers then in the video put them on and let us hear it it’s like having a hot wife and not doing anything with her it’s a teaser I can’t wait to hear the headers though your doing great keep up the great work
spray some liquid wrench on it weeks or days in advance. maybe even do it while its hot the bolts are hot it will allow the oil to do a better job of loosing that bolt up. maybe this will help thanks!.
I’m a jman welder and I’ll be honest the welds on the y pipe aren’t great, headers are fine. I would contact them about the pipes touching and ask what’s up with that. They get hot, and will expand and contract all the time. Not a header expert though, just a welder
Whewn you install headers , be prepared for increased underhood temps , as the factory manifolds can absorb th heat better and the tube headers will not hold the heat , so everything under the hood will get hotter temps , , don't expect increased horsepower by changing spark plug wires unless the old wire were faulty , , the new wires will hold up better under higher temps , if you have true dual exhuast , then use an " X " instead of a ' y ' pipe as it will increase torque as well and if you really want to see an increase in HP , make sure you have what is called " Tuned " headers where each primary tube is designed for the best HP and toque , a lot of cheaper companies will just make whatever they do just fit without designing for increased HP and torque
I put 3"longtube hedmens headers on my 94 4x4 1500 stepside and the installation sucked probally manly because my first time doing header job but you will have to check your bolts after your first drive they will need retighting and will sound mean !!
Sick! Can’t wait to see the install… my truck looks almost the exact same as Chomper. Once you install the headers you might push me over the line to order a set. I’ll have to shoot you some pictures of my truck, I think you’ll like it. 🤘🏼
When it comes to mufflers , be sure to use High Capacity mufflers or you will lose any improvements you have gained , Flowmaster are good quality and don't reduce the size of any pipes diameter or you lose improvements , I seen guys put smaller diameter pipes on because they cost less and lost power as a result
@@lIlIIIlllllll could be , I have not used them , they are a new company , I usually use Flowmaster or Borla , carven may be good but I would have to check into Carven ,
Just buy an easy out and then re thread the hole once you you get the bolt out or just drill the snapped off bolt out and re thread it it’s easy not hard just seems like a big job lol
