Another thing to consider is the heat from longtube headers. Considering how tightly they often fit, a lot of the time they can lead to melting wires or suspension bushings, or even causing the transmission to overheat. Long tube headers should only really be used in vehicles with a lot of space to work with. Seen several bad reviews of parts because it never occured to them that having the hottest part of your car right next to it might be a bad idea.
Not to mention the nightmare install on most! I cheaped out before and it was not fun and they scraped over everything because they hung too low but they still sounded fuc*in awesome! At least I sounded like the fastest car on the block!
TLDR Short= more torque, peak hp lower rpm and usually bolt on factory replacement Long= more hp, peak hp higher rpm and usually requires custom exhaust.
The difference I have found between long tube and Shorty headers is 5 hp on the top in. And since I like being able to get the transmission out of the car without having to remove the headers that five horse power was made up elsewhere
Not sure if I agree that shorties would be easier to install than long tubes. Just finished installing a set of stainless works long tubes on my car. The fitment was great and they slid right in with no problem or clearance issues. A couple bolts were a little annoying to get at, but those were the same bolts that were annoying to get at when I was taking off the factory log manifolds, and they'd be the same deal with shorties. Install ease I would honestly say is a wash between the 2. Feeling the difference of the long tubes to anyone considering headers and who doesn't have emissions or a lowered car to deal with I would honestly recommend just forgetting about the shorties and go straight to long tube headers. Honestly the difference is insane, my first drive after the header install caught me off guard. Car feels like a totally different machine!
Really depends on the car. My friend's 03 Mitsubishi eclipse has the easiest header to swap out vs my 2011 Ram which would benefit more from the space savings of shorties. It's extremely vehicle dependent on how painful the process will be.
I have 1⅝" primaries into 2.5" collector shorties with the ceramic coating. They're rusty. :( So glad you didn't start talking about "needing back pressure". Thumbs up from me for the accurate explanation.
Put short tube headers on a daily driven 5.9L v8 MAGNUM in a 1998 Dodge RAM 1500 4x4 along with a low-->midrange Hughes engines camshaft + roller rockers and that woke that underrated Mopar motor right up!
I have an old E150 Ford van that I am putting short tubes on, I figure the thing rarely sees 3500 rpm so I don't need the long tubes. I just want more efficiency than the factory manifolds.
@@MARZOSIRUS cats will ruin the power built by the headers theres no point and fyi power upgrades are only illegal in communist run states like colorado and cali so i say screw all commies this is america
@@ronniewatts8973 Exactly I was born here in Socal. I have a Crown Vic and Impala SS 95. In order to pass smog I have to have the catalytic converter s. I'll be customizing my exhaust on both within the year. I don't care at all about the sound so I'll use a good muffler to try and muffle as much sound out However best I can. I plan on long tube headers but we'll see. All though California is too expensive and too many rules. It's my home I was born here.
If anyone has a 2016 mustang v6 like me, the only CARB shorties I could find are JBA. Will have them and aFe Mach XP catbacks installed this weekend. (K&N Cai already installed and a Bully Dog tuner for good measure.)
Can’t even scroll anymore wo ads restarting your scrolling to the beginning. Long tubes was the way to go for my foxbody. I couldn’t believe the difference it made and actually feel the power vibration under your feet.
It really matters about flow. Exhaust scavenging is where the velocity of exhaust creates a small vacuum in the cylinder helping intake and cooling. This is cause by expanding hot gas creating suction out the tail pipe. It matters more the application do you want low end or top end. What about mid lengths?
Yes I am not looking to build a drag racer so I’m going with shorty as I do not go faster then 120km and stay around 2k rpm and only need the low end boost so my daily can handle its weight easier
I went with, 1-5/8" short tube headers tuned length, by BBK. They are also polished silver ceramic. The main reason I went with these, is because I live in N.Y. and its a CARB state
2005GT Mustang I have a 07 mustang and I live in NY too how does it sound and do you have a cat back exhaust on it, I’m a little inexperienced when it comes to exhaust.
@@aidanletterese3099 I have not installed them yet. I was planning on having my friend install them last year, but he got in a bad car accident. It's been on my mind to get it done. I hope soon and I'll get back to you
First off, nobody outside of California cares what California says. Everything I’ve ever seen says that it’s known to the state of California to cause cancer and birth defects. While I still haven’t decided on headers yet it seems fairly consistent that shorties add more power and torque lower in the rpm range while long tubes add power from mid to upper rpm range. I’m still researching to decide which headers are best for me and my car.
Marco The headers on each side are designed so that each blast of burned gas (referred to as a pulse) creates a vacuum behind it pulling the next pulse along at the collector (the cone where the pipes meet). The length and diameter of the pipes determine the speed of each pulse, generally the larger the pipe the better power BUT at a higher RPM so less off the line. In other words a 1and 7/8 inch pipe would make power suited to a torque motor and a 2 and 1/4 inch pipe would match a high revving cammed beast. @@marcozr3138
This video had really great information. I learned so much and its helping shape my decision on which headers and coatings to finally go with. Thanks!!!
Hey, you seem like a gear head. Look up Rick (or Rich) Holdener and he does a dyno test on shorties vs long tube and you are right. The shorties were better than stock, but the long tubes were better than shorties everywhere.
I Went With Long Tubes On My 06 5.7 Hemi Commander. It Was Either That Or Stock Manifolds lol. No Shorties Available. They Are 1-7/8". Lost Tons Of Power All Over lol. Also Installed A 6.1 Intake. Lost Tons Of Mid And Low End Power. I Think I've Lost About 30HP Overall With My Intake And Exhuast But That Just Tells Me I Freed Up Some Bottle Necks With Port Velocity. I Plan On Putting A Single Turbo And See What It Does. Its A Very "Think Out Side The Box" Turbo Set Up lol.
@Mikeman Jordan nope mines is n/a and its just fine. besides you'll take off strong and by the time midrange comes around the tables will start to turn putting long tube headers at the finish line lol😂😂😭👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
@@Regalia157 size restrictions, unless you want the turbo midway down the car you would need shorter exhaust piping to keep the turbo in the engine bay
I opted for stainless shorty headers on my Foxbody. Long tubes are a pain in the ass to install and work around. Exhaust work in general makes my knuckles bleed, and sometimes I'll curse loudly in my driveway. Don't need any more of that. Foxbody cars are generally very simple and even these cars will give you headaches with steering shaft clearance and general fitment, I imagine they must be even worse on a newer chassis. Long tubes sound nice, though, and give a modest torque boost across most of the range, so they are ideal if you can handle the drawbacks.
I thought it was the opposite I’ve always seen long tube give back torque in the low range of high reving motor that rely on power up top. I’ve always heard shorties rob bottom end to allow for a fast flow for high revs.
Long tube headers offer more torque and hp through the entire rpm range. Shorties are better then stock but not as good at any rpm as long tubes. You left out exhaust pulse benefits that shorties don’t offer. Also the collector tube plays a role as well. Lengthening the tubes raises the portion of the curve below peak and reduces the portion above peak torque; shortening them has the reverse effect.
Wouldn’t short tubes benefit all forced induction motors? Boost is just a measurement for restriction. I understand the theory for turbo vehicles. I’ve never had a turbo charged vehicle except for a diesel pickup but I’ve had 2 supercharged vehicles an 02 lighting and an 04 cobra. I lost a pound of boost on my lighting when I put long tubes on it. I’ve also noticed that a lot of overhead cam motors that do not have variable valve timing do not respond well to long tubes.
As a new subscriber, I'm glad I found your channel. I'm about to take my 96 f150 and start a new project. Look forward to checking out your archive. Thanks.
I have a 2014 Dodge Charger R/T AWD Hemi 5.7L. (Only has 31,000 miles on it) I am looking at BBK shorty either in chrome or stainless. Not sure which I want. (Recommendation please) Anyway, I figured the long tube would be too tight. and not worth risking extra heat from the exhaust. I already had installed a DynaFlow muffler with that nice "deep mellow" sound. I just want to install headers for that better airflow over the factory headers that has a much more restrictive flow.. I installed a fiberglass SRT8 hood. So with that said, I then installed a Mopar cold air intake and that has been a much nicer ride with just that alone
@Big Tex Hooker headers made specifically for the WORLD heads. It was the only option with these heads in long equal length headers. The collector size was the real difference in my opinion. That stupid ball joint is just too small. I think shorties may work well with larger collectors.
@TetoBarraza The shorties sounded ok to an uninformed observer but it was obvious to me that it needed better flow. Much louder with equal length long tubes but not just louder, sounded right. Like Carroll would have done in the 60s.
On my 83gt and 89 lx the long tubes was best. I used headman headers. Custom made x pipe flow master cat back. You could feel the power the long tubes gave it, car ran cooler. I did have to adjust my timing and retune for the long tube upgrade but it was worth it. It definitely turned heads stock and cammed . Hope this helps someone.
Grate video I learned something for when i put a 302 in my truck thank you ,but back pressure is nonsense. Proving by Engine Master's and drag cars look at pro mods or even street cars.
For the V6 guys, If you want your V6 to sound like Chewbacca taking a shit, go with long tube headers and enjoy your 10 hp but everyone roasting your exhaust. If you want to make it sound good with a deep throaty tone and gain a bit of mid range torque, go with shorties. And before you get ass tickled, I had both set ups on my car. Longtubes with off-road x pipe and it sounded horrible when it passed 2k rpms.
Shorties for a turbo? Turbos have a completely different type of header than these. Turbo headers turn back toward the front joining into a turbo/intercooler.
Jayson, I paid $500.00 for the installation on my 2002 Corvette. I purchased Kooks long tube headers, Kooks off~road cat~less X~pipe, and TMP Billy Boat exhaust, and OMG... It was like having a brand new car, and especially with all the compliments everywhere i go... There are so much fun, I can't help myself from pushing the clutch in and punching the gas every time i go under a non populated overpass... LOL... It's also like having a second horn, but way cooler... 😎😎😎
180 degree headers were my only choice for my Pantera, if I wanted long tubes. Looked, sounded & performed great. Living with them sucked, off they came & don't regret it one bit.
If you are putting headers on a newer truck go with shorties for more torque on the low to mid rpm range. No need for long tubes on a truck unless it is for drag racing only.
You can only install short tube headers because of clearance problems & they will bolt onto the factory Y pipe. The main problem with installing any type of headers on any late model car or truck is the number & placement of the oxygen sensors.
i'm building the third option not mentioned. tri Y headers provide a scavenging effect at low rpm's think of it like having 6 X pipes on your v8. better than a shorty at low to mid range. good luck finding them though best bet is make them yourself.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 Yes but once you change the way it breathes on one end, you have to change the intake as well. Then you need a professional tune shop to reprogram it's ECM.. or buy the equipment and do it yourself. Not gonna bother. My GTO runs fine stock. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Looking to step into better and better preformance with fuel economy being the most important and better than OEM performance next. I am wondering if short headers compatible with a turbo/supercharger would be a good first step and then i could choose a turbo or supercharger upgrade later? What is up with upgrades that include BOTH a supercharger and a turbocharger?
Thanks for the very informative vid. I have been trying to decide on the best exhaust upgrade to my C7 Grand Sport. This has made my decision pretty clear as to which/what setup to go with. Keep up the detailed vids coming.
remember jeff without torque your car wont move i challenge you to actually do some research on the topic i am a mechanic he dosent know what he is babbling about torque wins races all horse power does is carry you so it is important but torque WINS RACES not horse power
I’m indecisive between short tube or long tube for my 5.7 300c. I plan on getting the 90mm throttle body to go with my already installed K&N intake. Also plan on getting high flow cats along with a decent cat back exhaust. I feel like I know a lot about cars but I’m not the most educated in this area. Any help or advice would be highly appreciated!!
Me personally id go with naturally aspirated engines so i prefer long exhaust pipes but if the engine is reliable enough for the turbo then ill taje short exhaust pipes
There are only 2 kinds of exhaust header. 1 Tuned headers that deliver performance according to the design. 2 Manifolds whether cast or tubular that simply conduct the exhaust out to the rest of the exhaust system. Short tube "headers" are not tuned in any way. They function as simple pipes.
Very helpful! Thank you so much... But I'm still a little confused on the best set up for me at the moment. I have a 2016 gt, auto, with 4.10 gears. So does that mean that I would be better off with short tube headers? Also what size would be the best for that setup? I have a stock exhaust and the only thing I have right now is a roush intake with a 91 tune. Any help would be appreciated.
Think I would benefit from shorty headers. Not looking for max hp gains as so many of you are. But if you're next to me at a stoplight, you will never see what your longtubes are suppose to do! Just remember as a friend of mine found out with a 900 hp S550 gt . There is always someone faster!
I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum RT 5.7 Liter with a Magnaflow High-flow Catalytic converter and a Borla ATTAK cat-back exhaust system. Can anyone recommend which one (Long or Short tube) I should go with? I also live in Texas....
I'm upgrading a 2011 chevy colorado 2.9L so what do u suggest buddies? I already put a high performance shift kit to the transmission and a posi track lock unit to the rearend
Glad you did this video... hopefully your research has helped you on your decision. *cough long tube cough* *cough nitrous cough* I know you'll probably go shorty... if you do, you need to gander at Gibson, JBA, and BBK.
Lol I pulled over for downshifting too loudly 🤬 I have emissions testing in March. Should be a good upload but I am seriously considering long tubes after that nightmare is over
Modern Muscle213 well kooks will be the way to go. Good luck on emissions. Once you do long tubes, make sure you do non foulers for the rear o2 sensors so it don't trip a code. And fill it with steel wool to create a slight "filter"
I have a 2001 base model c5. Thinking of doing kooks short tube headers, catted xpipe, and no mufflers. I assume I should go with 1 3/4"? Also does anyone have any recommendations for axel back straight pipes? Lots of performance muffler options, but I'd really like to go straight.
Considering you rarely use RPMs higher than 4000 for any reasonable amount of time on the street and sometimes not even on the racetrack, where you have to get slow down and accelerate up to speed oh, a lot of that low end torque and horsepower is quite usable with Shorty headers. Which, in my experience give you all but that last little bit of very high-end performance with long tube headers. But you lose everything else for that little bit at the top end. Shorty headers have come a long way. What was really strange back in the late 60s early 70s is people would buy the big block Chryslers with those really strange-looking exhaust manifolds and take them off and put long tube headers on them and make less horsepower. Because there was no thought put into the design of the headers. It took a while for designed headers to actually come to fruition.
