Well done starastronomer, very thorough and detailed explanation, plus I can tell you perform masterful work in everything you do. Thumbs up for having an Anvil Micrometer to properly measure the case. I do like your idea of having a stationary cutting tool to work on, also you are the first and only video that I have seen that actually knows how to cut pipe, and I have watched dozens of the dolts out there that think they are opening a can of soup, and try to open a thin oil filter case in one turn, with a maximum of two revolutions is their goal, they clamp down on the filter case so hard it crushes the case (Like you stated in your video) and it takes Superman to turn the cutter. Whether it be steel, copper or plastic you go with very light pressure, slow and gradual and you will get amazing clean no damage cuts. I have an old 2” Ridgid pipe cutter that I have used over the years and just too bad my cutter does not go up to 4” and I would be set, so I am planning on buying this Longacre oil filter cutter, I just need any excuse to buy another tool for my collection of course. I do prefer Longacre overall design over the others. I like the flat ¼” plate design because it is more advantages for modifications as you have shown, and you can easily relocate a pair of new bearing mounting holes closer to the cutting wheel if needed for any reason. I have read from many comment sections that the cutting wheel rides directly on the 10x32 machine screw threads and many have purchased a longer cap screw with a shank on it and cut off the excess threads so the cutting wheel is riding on the smoother shank (axle) rather than the threads, this is a issue on almost all of the oil filter cutter manufacturers out there, not just Longacre.
