I have the space for the new bigger machine but don't have the bucks after my moving expenses. Gotta save my allowance for a while. Thanks for the care and feeding tips.
@@villageidiot8718 ah your onto the "fun" part of moving. I swear that phase goes fast and takes forever at the same time. It's why I have 3 power drills. I just found my drill from 10 years ago in a box.
I check every bolt for tightness after each tool change it only takes a few minutes. They will come loose even with blue threadlocker I machine almost exclusively hard maple with good results.
For further keeping your rails and wheels clean, I'd suggest you also add a small "fence" (mine is made of 1/4" plywood) which you can position between the bed and the Y-axis rails.
Onefinity CNC can operate vertically, but surprisingly this one (LongMill) can as well, I doubted this due to v-wheels. Since you have vertical space, you may try that one if 48 inch width projects line up for you. See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RvqRedvB-aE.html
It would be cool, however I am in talks with the wife about getting a car port for her car and turning the whole garage into a work space. If not I may have to look into mounting it to the wall.
Thanks a lot for posting this. It was very informative. Once I get my Longmill, I'll know how to maintain it now. Cleaning the rails, and especially lubricating those parts are a great a idea!! I have a question though, when lubricating the parts with oil, is there a chance that sawdust will stick to it and gum up? Thanks again. 👍
If there is play in the axis, such as being able to move it back and forth its to loose. For to tight it's a sound and your machine will sound a little off in the lower registry. Also on the to tight side but visually, one side of an axis is moving farther than the other, or both are moving less than they should. I do not always adjust them when im about to start cutting, but I do check for it before I cut. Also after messing with the backlash nuts I realign that axis to make sure I'm back to square, such as carefully crashing you y axis all the way back. Then get a vbit to mark a spot on the spoil board to manually draw a square in the control software say x0y0 to x0y220 to x220y220 to x220y0. Then measure the distance between all those marks to make sure they are 220mm apart from each other.
@@D.E.Hammer to check the square you need to mesure the distance between opposite corners, your two measurements have to be identical. Remember that a parallelogram can have the same dimensions on all 4 sides but not be square. For your 220sq marking the measurement (hypotenuse) should be 311.13. I hope this helps
The v-wheels have been my problem from the start. The two in the back, depending on where the x-axis is at, is loose. Its almost as if my wheels are out of tolerance. No matter how the eccentric nuts are tightened they will not do right.
That's no fun, and I my guess is if it is the v-wheels you may need to get new ones, a "fun" fix in changing them out. Have you reached out to their CS about this?
@@D.E.Hammer I did yesterday. They have been lose from day one. Never have been right from day one. Another fun fact: dont tighten the z-axis where you cant turn it by hand. I called myself doing maintenance. Trying to tighten everything. I snugged the z up just enough for travel but not loose enough where i can turn it by hand. As a result, the whole thing came off. Router burned a hole r Through the wood and into the waste board. My wood looks like a crater hit it and has charred remains.
