Definitely wear safety goggles, it's not just the potential of oxalic acid in the eyes/face but it would be Hot OA (300F+). Have a DeWalt wrap around safety goggles as well as the full 3M respirator with the face shield.
Nice video explaining this vaporizer. I have been using the one that uses a small torch so there is no electricity needed. I really like it. I also found that the tube gets clogged after a few uses so I will try your water tip and see how that helps to keep it clean.
@Rob Alfred Thanks. I made one of the vaporizer you speak of and I noticed it clogging too. I really think that is because the tube isn't getting hot enough and the vapors cool before they are out of the tube. I will be switching from the gas powered vap to this one for now on as it doesn't clog so easy. The water tips works well, just make sure to hold the cap on.
Hey Jason. I like the vaporizer demonstration very much. One thing I wish you had addressed is temperature recommendations for vaporizing OA. I've read that you must not heat it hotter than 370 degrees, and this device heats it to a higher temp. I am assuming that the 400 degrees of this device must instantly drop to below that value. If it stays above 370 for a period of time I read that the OA turns partly into carbon monoxide.
@Joe's Garden & Bees Great question! I have heard similar things about over heating but I was told over heating turn vapors into formic acid. So who really knows. I can say I have seen no bad side effects on my bees after using Rob's vaporizer. Matter a fact at 400° it hardly ever clogs up. I thinks the clogging takes place when the tube isn't getting hot enough and the vapors cools before they are out of vaporizer tube. Let's see if we can get Rob to chime in on this by tagging him @Lorob Bees
@@JCsBees myself and all of my users have seen no negative effect from our OAV's settings as they are fairly normal across the large portion of vaporizers on the market, the acid interacts like water as when it starts to boil it acts as a insulator until it has boiled down enough to complete the treatment (Mere seconds). The 400 range allows the stem to keep nice and hot to help get built up acid out of the stem and prepare for the next treatment efficiently. Also many people use literal blow torches on their acid and have no temp reading what any of their temps are and i have not heard any adverse reaction from that process besides if the acid catches fire it is very bad to extinguish and they have no idea what their treatment temps are at any point in time. Let me know if you have any other questions,
Sublimating OA too hot actually breaks down the vapor into CO2 and water vapor and a negligible amount of formic acid. Water vapor and CO2 do not kill mites so it's important to not overheat the acid.
I read the same thing they did a study on it in Canada. Yep 370 is where it works the best. There is a video on it where they talk about it. As I remember it was one where Joe May of little bits honey bee's is talking with Bob Benny.
5% off Lorobees Store (includes vaporizers): lorobbees.com/collections/oxalic-acid-vaporizers?sca_ref=1697600.9usfDCSW8G 750 Power Invertor: amzn.to/3w6MXQO 100 Golf Tees: amzn.to/3wbnyFQ Respirator Mask: amzn.to/2SKp430 Respirator Carriages: amzn.to/3w7Gl4H 7/32 Drill Bit: amzn.to/3bModpt **Warning: If you use this vaporizer in the bottom board as I gave an example of with the foot not touching anything, please know you should be very careful to not bend/ break the tubing or cook pot. I haven't had any issues but if bumped the wrong way while treating I can see it causing a problem.
Dreams do come true! Glad we could give you a unit to help your channel and your bees. We are very grateful for the video to help give out unit some exposure as we work extremely hard to make it at the highest quality possible without the massive price tag to go along with it unlike our competitors unit. -Rob
Are the heating elements in the newer units kicking off at 400 degrees Rob? I've seen my vaporizer climb to 450 degrees if I drag my feet in between treatments. Thanks
@@HereWeGoSteelers that is fine, it’s due to the larger heat element. It will recover and correct back to 400 with time though you don’t have to wait for that to happen as when it treats it drops back down correctly almost instantly once you initiate a treatment.
@@JCsBees your videos are great, I learn alot. I'm a newbie to beekeeping, have one hive ,so far they are doing great, my 2nd year with them, last year complete suprised, 5 gallons of honey.
I'm a member of COBA (Central Ohio Beekeepeers Assn), and they just told me the following, "It's too warm for OA. I suggest you use formic acid strips. OA is generally used when there is no brood in the hive. COBA recommends using OA from November through March." What's your opinion, please?
@ed devault Did we sleep in this morning? lol Usually I get to respond to you before I leave to do morning farm chores but not today. Should I ask how much acid your using? lol
@@JCsBees ...I was out early installed emerged virgin queens....it’s suppose to rain really early today....but here it’s 9:30 and no rain yet..... I do 40-hives....and I have a Mini-Vap....made in California....it has a suction type filler....I use the “wood bleach” Oxalic acid....but I go through a tub of it each time I treat them....not sure what those tubs way....but I’ll check....
Ed..do you have dead mites? If so, you're not using too much..hehe! I think the recommended doses are somebody else's best guess of what's required. I've never noticed OD'd bees from using too much oxalic acid. I fill my blue cap and go for it. I've got a Jon O's vaporizer....I contacted Jon and he's just cut way back but not quit making vaporizers. This Lorob vaporizer is a very nice tool.
@@mark-wn5ek ....I hear you...anything that works is worth the cost.....I’m no expert....just a guy that’s raised bees for 30 years....from a time of never treating for mites...to treating 4-5 times a year....with either Apivar....or Oxalic....
@ed devault Well I guess you had a good reason to be out the door early. Hope the install went well! Do you have any issues with the tip of your vaporizer plugging up? Just seems like the gas vaps the tubing cools too quick which causes clogging? Have you noticed this?
Hello Jason.. If you remember me I'm a new beekeeper from Kosovo its little bit far from you "hahaha", if you would let me I'll make you a question its not about axalik acid but i didn't know where to wrote you... Soo i split my bees at MIKE PALMER method " double nucleus colony " so here its little bit cold at the winter and the honey flow it's only one time and its now " in this month " so i make my splits after the honey flow, but before, when i made the splits, i moved to another yeard but now i must keep here. Soo my question is how to make the splits and dont loose my bees from a split " to dont let the bees to return to the old location". Thankful to you man, you're doing a wonderful job and helping people soo much, good day...
Hello. If you make your splits like you normally would then use some brush to block the entrance the bees will re-orientate. I usually cut a bunch of limbs of the honeysuckle and use the limbs to block entrance and this only has to be done for one day. Try and it and you will see how it works.
@@JCsBees Yes. And I've found it sometimes does not heat up to the temp it is set for. I have to use a 100 foot extension when using it and that may be the problem, although the extension is a 12 gauge cord.
Thanks! Depends on the time of year since oxalic acid doesn't kill mites under capped cells. This time of year I would recommend a treatment every 5 days for 5-6 weeks. By doing it this often you are sure to get a good mite drop. When there is little to no brood a treatment every 5 days for 3 weeks is plenty.
My drilled holes in the back of the hive for the nozzle insert are abit bigger then yours maybe 10-20mm diameter. Should I bother finding something to plug it up like your golf tees or not bother? They won't plug it with propolis. Also with regards to hole aligning with the frames just drill hole slightly lower then the bottom of the frames hanging in your box.
Yes, I would plug the holes off with something. I see bees filling the holes later in the year if you don't plug them. Every hive manufacture is different. Some boxes do have bee space below the frames but I have seen some that hardly have any. That said, I think the hole location will depend where your boxes come from.
380w @ 110 volts is just 3.4 amps, you could run it off a 16ga 100’ extension cord from the dollar store. That’s why a 750w inverter works because it’s good for about 6 amps.
JC --I really appreciate your no-nonsense, articulate, straight shooter approach in your videos and review. I have used a plate style for the past 5-6 years and it takes forever to cool down and use for the next hive. Additionally, after taking apart a hive it appears that the hot plate with the oxalic acid acts like a corrosive on the bottom board screen, besides frying some bees that you touch. I have spent some time doing some research and it appears you have helped me solidify what I going to spend some hard earned 'honey money ' on. Any updates on the vaporizer from May that you would like to share? Have you tried it with a generator? My bees are too far from the house to run a cord. A concern I see, being careful how you store it with the thin copper nozzle. Thanks again for your great videos. Be well-- JL
Glad you enjoyed my review. I will say this vaporizer is still top notch in my opinion. The copper tubing is a lot more stout than one would expect, I don't worry about it. I actually got a small tote with a lid from the Dollar Store and I carry it in there with the caps and acid. I have not tried it with a generator but I know several who use that method with no issues. I think you will be very happy with the purchase.
I bought mine 2020 and received 2021. Worth every penny. Used this fall for first time. I applied through hole in my slatted rack. This reheats so fast you can go through hives in minutes.
When the entrance is blocked with rags to treat the vapors will leak out any holes or cracks in the hive. When you don't see vapors anymore, your done!
According to NAPA, (Just kidding) I have no idea! 😃 It is a great question but it's a loaded one at that. Every battery is not made the same, there is different sizes and manufactures. I guess with just the battery option a trickle charger would also be needed to be safe. A boat battery would be best but they are expensive. The good thing about a boat battery is they take charging very well and for a super long period of time.
The Mitey Vap that I have been selling on Craigslist for a couple of years has had your suggestions done except for the resting plate since originally introduced, also preheats in 1:45 . Rick
Jason please pin this this or revise your notes. The new recommended dosage per 10 frame is 2 grams. Ask bob at blue ridge if you need to confirm. Thank you.
Depends. If your hive has a landing board sticking out from the hive then "yes" you have to drill a hole. even if you don't have the landing board you may still have to hold the vaporizer to stabilize it during treating.
Yes, in most cases if the frame has young larva they will raise a new queen. If would help if you add a frame of food and maybe shake a couple frames of nurse bees into the nuc also. What you describe is called " A walk away split".
Also the Lorob units are made in the US. The other most popular unit out there is made by different manufacturers in Europe. The quality differs from manufacturer to manufacturer.
I purchased one back in March 2021 . So far my mite washes have been only 2 mites per colony. Once our nectar flow has ended I plan on doing a OA treatment. I’ve also decided to use your cattle tag system to number my colonies. I also bought a bag of blaze orange ones with no number to remind me to check those hives if there seems to be a health problem with the hive . I have pulled 11.5 gallons of honey off one hive and that hive is working on a fifth super. Honey money $$$$$ ! LoL
Are you vaporizing just the one time then checking mite count? Since OAV doesn't kill mites under capped cells, it's recommended you vaporize this time of year once every 5-7 days for 3 weeks to get a good mite drop. Glad to hear your using the cattle tags too, they work well. I like the idea of the orange tags but I just turn the number backwards so I can't see it if I need to remember to check certain colonies. I also use the brick system so I can tell a lot just by looking at each colony. Sounds like an awesome honey producer you have. Hope you can carry them genetic in some of your other colonies.
@@JCsBees I don’t treat unless my mite counts are above 3 mites/ 300 bees. I also wonder if treating with OA would be most effective close to dark time when all the bees are home . You know those mites love hitch hiking. LoL
Leave it on until your done regardless rather treating one hive or 100. You do need to wait for the temp to max out before starting next treatment. Takes about 45 seconds. Very nice device, I love mine.
Yes, I used a few different type of wood as bee boxes. My favorite is eastern cedar but it's hard to come by. I have used ash also but it's makes for heavy bee equipment which is hard on your back after a long period.
Do your hives have a landing board sticking out from the front of the hive? If so, no the vaporizer will not work in the front. If your hove does not have a landing board then it may work though you would have to hold the vaporizer during treatment vs letting it rest on it's own.
Hi Jason, I saw a Bob Binnie video recently that the dose is now 2 grams per deep hive body so a two deep would be double that or 4 grams. Have you heard this?
Excellent video Jason! Really like the tip about drilling the hole in the bottom board instead of the boxes. (For smaller apiaries another option would be to place a feeder shim on the top of the hive and drill a hole in that for the vaporizer.)
Thank you for the review. I could not see the bottom of the dosage cap below the Double Deep. Will you please share the rest of the dosage information? Thanks so much!
don't own one yet, but a thought about a leg on the bolt ( stud), a 1/2 inch strip of sheet metal (stiff) , drill a stud hole ,put on the stud an then put a wing nut after on to hold it tight, now bend the sheet metal ends to what angle or height you want to make level or sturdy. Just a thought😊
Jason Chrisman if the strip was 4-8 inches you could have wider leg stance, why I say wing nut , is it may make a wider base at the stud. Rather the bend rite next to a nut. Thank you for your excellent videos !!! An I just ordered one of these BECAUSE OF YOUR VIDEO 👍
Thanks for all the links Jason! Very helpful. Love your videos--practical and helpful unlike many others that are simply blogs of them working in the bee yard. Yours are very applicable and again practical. Keep up the good work.
I just got mine in last week waiting initial the flow ends here in sunny Florida to try it out my first time with this method and have only heard great reviews on this product and thanks fir the great videos
Great review, thanks. I'm glad to see some competition come into this space as the existing units are so expensive. Also love that Beekeeper Drive road sign.
