Great content! This is what RU-vid is about. If you want him to film it on 4K, YOU buy him a GoPro... He's not trying to be a TV personality or a Producer. Just a guy with knowledge trying to share it w/o all the tech tricks or fake smiles! Thank you sir!
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
Jerry, I've acquired a '65 Mustang convertible and I've sanded it to metal. I have no experience in body repair but your videos are like a one-on-one body shop instruction and I appreciate you sir. I'm happy that each repair is looking great!
You've come to the right place to learn how it's really done is high production body shops. As you work on your project, if you have any ?s feel free to ask - doesn't have to relate to the topic of the video. I answer comment once or twice a day.
You can also mix fiberglass resin with plastic filler to make a brushable filler. Use the correct ratio of hardeners for each, then mix them together and brush it on. Really nice for skimming complex shapes and custom work
This is a great video I have some rust on my 63' chevy nova and my husband is on his 14th bladder and kidney cancer so I have to depend on myself to fix my rust spots I don't have money to pay a body shop my mortgage comes first so videos like this help me greatly.Thank you for sharring was very informative God bless 🙏💜
Thank you . I have done PDR dent repair for almost 30 years , but always wants to learn new things to increase my abilities. Looking forward to your upcoming videos. 😊
My dad used to be big on picks and stuff like that - he had a bunch of those things in the 70's - I never had the patients. That's something I have to work at actually :)
Thank you for the videos and real world repairs that people with real determination and only a few tools and minimal supplies can do at home on a nice day outside or in a home garage . I have had great success doing just that for years thanks to exact touchup paints being readily available in a spray can . I recently restored a 2006 5.3 gxp Grand Prix black I repaired rockers and rear quarters using fibreglass and using spray can black acrylic enamel and then clear coat after rubbing down the whole car and energy cured touchup up areas I applied couple coats of quality cleaner wax . The gxp with it original mint Alcoa Oem rims and paint correction that’s better than new car shine get loads of compliments at self serve gas stations from many as there are very few on the road here in southwestern Ontario Canada .
You're welcome. It's great to hear about your projects and repairs. I'll have to check into this car - must be faster than heck! Thanks for the comment and have a good week my friend :)
Hello Jerry. My wife's 05 camery needs some love she has reluctantly, retired it from daily use. It has over 315.000 miles on it a 2.4 banger, driven highway all of its life, but we both decided she should get something newer. She has a career yet, I am retired. I am going to keep it around for a backup car. Little bubbling rust in the rear left wheelwell area other wise she is solid. The camery will be my next garage project. Take care.
@@LakesideAutobody I learned basic bodywork from good ol' boys that still think straight enamel is the only way to go. Lol! I'm glad your dad didn't drink. THAT'S JUST MORE FOR ME! 🍻 Thanks for the videos. They're great!
I love these videos. You show how to get professional results with limited resources. None of this hot rod network 80k in snap on and Eastwood tools. Real stuff for real people.
Nice video and helpful. This will work well to patch a small spot on my 2000 Wrangler rocker panel before I put the rocker panel guards on. Thanks for going through the steps of using the fiberglass first, then how to apply the body filler.
One think that can help the repair last is to try and make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain/dry. Even if have to drill a drain hole or two on the back side or bottom :)
Nice repair! I used to do these kind of repairs all the time when I was a teenager (before I had a welder) or for my daily drivers. Sometimes if the hole wasn't too big I would ding in the hole and use Tigerhair strand filler under then regular on top.
@@LakesideAutobody 2nd gen body man... Nice! I learned a lot about cars from older guys when I was young and cherish everything I learned including using lead and solder. Helped spray a lot of Dupont Centari with a 2000 pack mixed in a 5 gallon plastic bucket on Saturday mornings...
Great video really good job you did I'm kind of learning yet. I've never used fiberglass I am about to experiment with it with my truck because it definitely needs some body work
I went to college for autobody back in 91, actually that repair was in our autobody book.That is actually a technique taught in colleges,done right the way you did it can last year's.
@@joshuakeith8710 If I can get to the back side, I like to use a good spray on undercoat that stays rubbery like Sem, 3M, etc. Before applying though its good to clean and or sand blast the back. Honestly it you were able to do this it will last forever. No moisture = No rust. Divide both sides by (No) and you're left with moisture = rust - how 'bout that! Just messing around - have a good weekend :)
Have you done series o f videos doing body work out side while dealing with temperatures and weather? I have no room in my garage to do any body work. Thank you again for your videos, they are awesome.
Thank you for your informative videos. I watched this one and another you made, concerning using fiberglass as an alternative to welding. I might mention that I had a problem. I used regular filler after the fiberglass application and the glass at the ends of the patch popped through my primer. I know I used resin to smooth it all but after sanding it down, I had this issue. In your other video, there was a small segment where you mentioned Bondo Glass. I ground off my filler and bought some of this and it seems to be working. All that said, did I do something wrong?
Sorry - I was not able to get to your first post on this for some reason. When you sand your fiberglass, you'll want to make sure the edges are smooth and "feathered" into the metal. Your filler should also feather into the metal. Everything should be smooth when you spray your primer surfacer. Make sure you use "High Build" primer surfacer (Urethane Primer Surfacer or Lacquer Primer Surfacer) as this has thickness which covers up the bodywork imperfections. You will then block sand this and it will be perfect. Here's a video on block sanding: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EQmqKhLkeOQ.html Hope this answers you ? - if not ask again - Jerry
Cheese grater is from Amazon, 40 grit to start with on the filler, 80 grit to finish the filler, 120 grit to DA with or feather edge, scuff with 3M scuff pad any shiny paint you might get primer on and then prime - glad you like the video
I have went through three auto body schools. This fix is only good if you can get behind it to put a water barrier behind it. Another new product on the market is panel adhesive and a piece of metal over the spot. The issue with that is feathering which 9 times out of 10 the eye will not see if you you are a little high. Cutting the metal out and butt welding is the only way to make good as new.
That's great that you asked that. I just made one but will be uploading it - not this Friday but the next with grit of paper. For now though - this video is a sandpaper guide - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V5AyJv6i4hg.html This one might be start to finish but it's welding - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VBLlA-VAusw.html Hope they help ❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody I just hit 49. I’d love to already have 30 years of experience! And I’d bet I’d be hard pressed to find a teacher/master like you here in Massachusetts!
It can hold up for a long time if you can coat and seal the back side of the panel (undercoating or thick rustoleum paint. I've done it where I sand blasted the back and spread a layer of bondo back there and it'll hold up forever because no water/salt can get to it. Even if you can get some spray oil back there to slow down the rust. Jerry
@@brendan1675 It will last forever if you seal the back side and allow the salt water to drain off (not collect) - like sand blast it and hit it with good undercoating. It'll probably start bubbling or showing rust again with in five years if you do not seal the back. To be very honest, it is not the most quality repair, I prefer welding but still trying to seal or prevent rust from the back side.
Another great video! You are amazing and so nice taking the time to make all these great videos for the common folk to repair there own vehicles, a little knowledge and motivation goes a long way! Very nice job and like you said most inportant part is coating the backside whenever possible!
Hey jerry, great work💯 I’m just wondering what kind of pad is on your air gun towards the end of the video when you were using the gun and the 40 grit sanding block before the primer
Hi Jake - thanks. I think you were seeing the pad on the DA sander. That's just like a stiff black foam pad that all the National Detroit DA sanders came with back in maybe the 80's. It's almost like an interface pad of today. Let me know if this answers your ? :)
I have a small 1inch round rust hole near my gas cap gonna cave and pave it and layer up some fibreglass to fill the hole today hopefully all goes well
If i sand blast and undercoat (just spray bomb type) the back I do it before or after painting - your choice. If I use old motor oil I always treat the back after paint work - paint doesn't like oil. Check this vid out for rust prevention. It really works well - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DqxMHCizkUE.html
You can apply it to the back or both sides if you want. Or... undercoat or seal the back to stop future rust. It's all up to you and what you think will stop the rust. Personally, I think drainage of the inside of the panel is huge. If it can drain and stay dry in there, you're gold :)
Best to clean up the back as well becouse it will come from the inside out again clean it up and put some epoxy primer or paint on the inside to help stop the rust from forming. But Mack sure you use at least a 36 grit grinder before you use the cloth type fiberglass I have made it into molds and used Vette bond to glue it together with the panel twisting some times the fiberglass cloth will break loose kitty hair stuff it fiberglass will stick a lot better and you could use that and eliminate the bondo then sand smooth and puddy ... Keep up the good work 😃
For grinding bare metal (40 grit fiber disc) For sanding bondo (always 40 to start then 80 to finish) For blockiing primer (80, 120, or 150) - 80 for real big stuff. For finish sanding primer 220, 320, or 400 wet sand. For color or clear paint sanding before buffing (800-1500) - your choice. That's it - hope that helps - Jerry
You do fine body work. However, I was wondering if you could apply less body filler, as it seems after looking at numerous videos from Lakeside auto body quite a bit of filler is applied and 80- 90% or so of it is then removed. Looks like extra work but you are the expert. Thank you for all the tips and techniques!
When I worked I was on commission so I try to get it in one shot. A lot of guys would wipe a thin layer, sand, spread another layer, sand, etc. I don't mind wasting the filler as it is pretty cheap - 19/gal . You can do it both ways - it's up to the individual. Both ways have the same longevity. Good question William :)
First allow for drainage - any way you can. That's the most important thing. The panel must be able to dry out inside. Second, if you can get to the back side - sand blast it real quick or at least clean it and use some good 3M or similar undercoating to seal the repair. Last, I swear by this - new or old repaired cars - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y05dNxt-nVc.html
I ordered a cab corner patch repair for my '73 c10 but I'm kinda weary of welding sheet metal with my cheap harbor freight flux core welder. ...it's only on one side of the corner before the bend towards the back and it's almost the size of a ping pong ball.......I'm thinking of just eat the $12 patch panel and giving this fiberglass/bondo combo a shot.....besides I ordered new fenders, hood, and door shells, so everything else will be tit's ....hopefully, I noticed a Couple pin holes in the rockers as well but definitely not big enough to do a patch panel repair on so I might have to grind out the rust and do your fiberglass/bondo trick on those spots too...they are very minimal. ...thanks for the great idea....I might have to tack on a small piece of angle iron on the rocker so that I have something for the weatherstripping to attach too.........
Hi I'm going to try this on the top of a front fender on a 04 jeep wrangler. Will this last with rocks beating on the under side? How far around the perimeter of the hole do you knock it down? 1/2" or more?
Yes about 1-2"" will work - even more is better. Don't be afraid to go ahead an knock it down good - like 1/4" on average.. That way you have a lot of room to lay your fiberglass in there along with a nice rigid layer of filler :)
I got rockers going out on my car. After I clean up the rust there will probably be 6” x 3” hole. How would I shape the fiberglass in my case since the hole is much larger than the one in this video?
The easiest way to cover larger areas. Is to use a "form" . By form read anything that can temporarily hold the desired shape until it dry enough to self support. All is fair game. Metal mesh, aluminum or stainless steel work quite well. So does wax paper, plastic bags, cardboard, duct tape... BTW duct tape is perfect to hold plastic or paper in place. Depending on resin type, material, thickness, hardner, etc. We might be talking about 10 minutes to overnight. So your "form" is a very temporary need. After a single layer of cloth, others can be added later. Bridging a hole can be a minutes thing! ;-)
Got an old car trunk lid that has more holes than not and I warped the hell out of it with the first patch panel so everything else is about to get this here. I think I'm going from the inside to avoid any piling on such a flat surface. I just wonder how heat will affect it and how long it will last. I'm about to find out!
