LOVE this comment!!!! To date, I have received 5+ comments suggesting that I should have used Impact wrenches and other power tools. First off... I have 2 Air Impact Wrenches and a Cordless one as well. The manual that I followed mentioned that many people destroy the end threads of Bolts and Holes. It suggested not using them. My thought was... Cool I breakout the old Speed Wrench and have some fun. We weren't in any hurry... If we were, we wouldn't have filmed and edited it (adding to the timeline 4 fold!!!!). Damn... I sped up those boring parts and trimmed the duplications! Just goes to show that you can't please everyone. Especially the Online Keyboard Mechanics. Their videos are perfect!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike will agree impact guns can do damage removing bolts especially in aluminum do to the speed... i do however like to use air ratchets... still faster than hand but wont sit there free spinning the bolt on the threads under pressure... not a complaint just a thought for others who may not know better... and ill admit i do things different for work vs my personal projects(for pleasure).. sometimes its just more fun to take your time
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yeah, I've never understood the need for folks to say "You should use power tools". I mean, would I use them? Absolutely! But this is YOUR project, not anyone else's so I can respect your decision on not using power tools. Damn good point though on boogering up the threads upon removal with an impact. It's something that I'll definitely keep in mind for the future...
I wanted to comment about how there's no music just work and I appreciate it.. .and also its best to ues hand tools and torque wrenchs when working on engines. Facts
FLP Media I get so many comments that I should be using impact pneumatic tools.. blah blah blah. To many people rush through this and often do unnecessary damage. Thank you!!!!
Love to see you and your son's, "I think", learning from we old motorheads of the South! Super. Loved the old school way! I'm 58, and have cool tools too, amassed since I got infected, with my first car at 12! (61 Bug) But you are "one with the project", and surprisingly, might get more accomplished. Appreciate the clarity and lack of cussing. It can be done. Save those up and spend them when needed!, LOL Take Care Lee, N FL
Well made video and just enough of an explanation not to bore the more experienced among us. I'm a newbie and have ambitions of swapping an LS into my GM400 pickup. It's a project I have had waiting for several years. In the meantime, I'm learning as much as I can from videos like yours. So thanks, and keep up the good work.
Great vid Mike. That engine looks like a great rebuild candidate. Looking forward to the rebuild. Also your son's are learning alot and will cherish these times when they are older. Keep up the great work.
This is the greatest platform to share! I have learned as much as I have shared and always happy to help. Cheers to you and thank you for the kind words. Mike
I have been watching several videos to try and get the correct info I needed and couldn't get it. These videos never seem to let me down, I got my answer with this video. Well done
Love it! The purpose of all the details was to give the viewers a look at what it takes so that they can make the decision if it is something for them. Have fun with your build. Mike
We have done many jeep swaps over the years installing 351 efi winsor ford, 350 carbed chevy and also did a 360 efi magnum mopar in the past. They all did fantastic plenty of power and lasted thru the abuse. One of the best swaps we did was taking a flipped 96 f-250 4x4 7.3 diesel standard trans with only 30 k on it shorting the frame and sit a 94 bronco body on the modded chassis. we gave the 7.3 a stage 2 cam higher flowing injectors bigger turbo and a intercooler that was not standard in 96 That was supposed to bring it to the 500 hp huge torque range, never dyno'ed as the twisted drive shafts and broken yokes proved the power ... That bronco was a beast that would not stop after having non hollow drive shafts built and it brought big big bucks on ebay.
Clifford Wells I have the 5.3LM7 in my 05 Silverado. It's already at 200,000 miles. I run Mobil 1 5w-30 and it still runs like the day I bought it. GM does a really great job with these engines. I think Ford ran into a lot of problems making the 3v 5.4 too complex, they change things way to often. I like that GM had a really great design and just kept it as is. I've seen some examples with over 500,000 miles and have no doubt mine can go that far. Considering the power these can handle, a stock motor is very understressed. I also like that all the LS series motors are compatible with one another.
As satisfying as it was to see the head bolts get taken off by hand till they came out, I had anxiety that the head could of possibly slid off brother!
Thanks for the shout out. I am also picking up some good tips from you. I like the ice tray for lifter storage and the 2X4 for push rods. I'll do that next time. Ive used an old shoe box with holes poked in the lid before. Awesome tear down video!
This is such a great platform to share information. I had ordered a couple of trays for the teardown but they were going to be delivered several days after I realized that I wanted to perform the teardown. So I cancelled and made my own.
I have watched all of your videos and wow they are awesome hat's off to you you have really helped me on my build I have the same engine thanks and remember put God first and everything else last
I am also digging the good old fashioned elbow grease put in here. I am guilty of using pneumatic tools in my own garage as much as possible. I think they are a very valuable tool for disassembly assembly not so much. Very nice video no idiot bullshiting for hours before even starting and you guys have a nice little shop area there very clean and organized. Its easy to see this isn't your first dog and pony show!!
Reminds me ofmy step-dad.... No air tools, just turn wrenches, and getr done. He was so old school... Hed change tires off rims, with an iron bar, an long pry bars.... And a sledge hammer. Hed rather do it himself, and save money.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike yes sir I always use that trick very good method and it works let me ask you this why did you use dry Bulls twerking down the mains I thought you had to dip oil at the tip of the bolts and then twerking down
@@oillife2115 During the final assembly, i placed a small amount of oil on the main cap around the holes. That may or may not have made the final cut of this series.
OvRdoSe69 Thank you! The manual that I was following suggest that many people with impact wrenches distort the threads of bolts and in the block. We decided to go old school. We were not in a time crunch. You can’t be if you are going to video tape the activity. Glad you enjoyed it.
For broken bolts if the vise grips dont work you can always file the sides and put a socket on it. You probably already knew but figured id inform! So far loving the series keep it up.
Really appreciate you uploading this vid. I just picked up a 4.8 that needs rebuilding and I am literally going to follow everything you just did here. Big Thumbs up!!
Hey... Thank for the message. I highly recommend the following softback book: "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines" by Chris Werner. I found it on Amazon: amzn.to/2g3xXNl for about $20. I would not be hard to teardown an engine without it, but there are so many pieces of information that are really nice to know. Just got my parts back from the machine shop and plan on starting on the bottom end tomorrow. Best of luck with your build. Keep in touch!
I got a 1975 chevy nova I got going, I built a 350 for it and am soon to get it running, but my plan is while driving it with the 350 I'll be building a ls1 for it, so these videos help a lot to show me what I'll be up against
Love this comment!!!!! This was not a "How to" series as there are some many options and choices that you can take. The purpose of this series was to show a base-line of the step required to do this. In your words, " Show you what you're up against". Awesome!!! And it sounds like you have a great plan!!!!
When doing head bolts good or bad I always soak them an then tap the heads with a hammer. Haven’t broken a head bolt in years since doing that. Never use impacts either. Always use breaker bars. Hammering shocked the threads and usually loosens the crap holding them on like rust and grime.
Not sure how I missed this original comment. I agree with hammering, breaker bars, and staying away from Impacts. It's hard to convince today's crowd on some of these items as they are so driven to get things done fast. It is always best to do it right. Cheers!
The LS is such a great advanced over the small block Chevy.. The cathedral ports.. and the mains are really 6 bolt main.. Don't see many spun main bearings... good video
Great video a couple of tips for the harmonic balancer you should always use a 3 jaw puller to remove a LS balancer. When removing the cam use a couple of the long water pump bolts in the cam as a handle to help you remove and install the cam.
Justin Thurman very good points. I had seen many time people using the water pump bolts for the cam. The manual that I was following suggested the method I used, so I thought I would give it a try. Cheers!
If you've ever broken off a bolt/stud on removal (even just once) you will then use penetrant solution, and the impact wrench. There is something about the rapid "machine gun" slapping action that will break the rusty bolt loose,compared to a long pipe on a breaker bar that simply breaks the head off.
great video I don't know if it has been stated yet, but to get the lifters out, you remove timing chain and turn cam Counter or normal clockwise one turn, that pushes the lifters up and locks them and allows you to remove each lifter tray with lifters in one operation. Its what I have seen, explained with demonstrated.
Mark Torre I had also seen that process and should have tried it. But I am not sure it would have helped in my case. The lifters would slide out slightly (normal travel) then get stuck. Great observation.
You will probably get to this later in the video or something, but it is really important to stamp numbers on the rod caps and the main caps so you know what cap goes with what rod and main location.
junglejonny1000 the bores for the crank and rods are line bored perfectly linear. If you mismatch the rod and main caps, some could be just a tad different and the oil clearance between the bearings could be slightly off causing hotspots if too tight or vibration/knocking at high RPM if too loose. ALWAYS keep any valvetrain and rotating assembly parts in order if you plan on reusing them, they’ve been worn to that specific cylinder and should return to their homes. 😁👍🏻
Richard Olsen oh come on.... you have to allow us to pretend to be an old school auto shop. It allowed us to become “one with project”. I tried my best to speed up through those parts. Anyway, Glad you enjoyed the series. We had a lot of fun!!!!!!
A speed wrench is great! You just need to get the socket on, and just hold the top of the handle, and make it spin aka "dance" the bolt out. Much faster and fun :)
That sounds like it is going to have "Crazy Power". Hope you have a source for cheap tires... your going to need a bunch of them! Good luck with that project!
Just discovered your channel, great content! Also figured I'd share a little trick I have learned with getting the cam out. The water pump bolts are longer but are the same size and thread pitch so you can screw those into the cam to make a little handle to help with pulling it and putting one in. I noticed you were using your speed wrench.
I had heard that and when I attempted to do that, the bolts did not screw in. I have a feeling I was using the wrong bolts. The little guidance manual that I have mentioned an extension or rod down the middle, so that is what I used. It will state that it was not the best method. When the Cam came out far enough, you can see that I abandoned the speed wrench! Awesome and thanks for sharing!!!!
I appreciate that! I have Air tools. The manual that I was following made a good point on damage to threads when using air tools, so I elected not to. I did try to speed those section up for your entertainment!!!!! Thanks!
Interestingly, the book mentioned that people using air tools often bare down to ensure staying on the nut or bolt head and that if they continue to bare down when the threads reach the top, they bugger (technical term) up those top threads. I wasn't in a hurry and decided to go at it old school. It was fun with the boys.
Thanks for the great video.....for some reason no one has been able to tell me with validity why are the pushrods and rockers typically put in a box or off to the side with same sequence they are removed from an engine if they all are identically sized in every way???
The theory is that all contact parts in a rotating assembly wear and create mating surfaces. In the event that you plan to reuse these types of parts, you would want to pair up the original parts that have already mated themselves together.
I know this video is kinda old but just sharing a little trick for busted bolts @8:20 for anyone. Get a die grinder and make a little slit on the end of the bolt sticking out then use a flathead to unscrew it and boom!
I agree... I have seen other rebuild video where they have needed to drain water out of the Knock Sensor pockets. I guess someone is overwashing their engines!
Thank you for the video. I wish I knew where the long bolts from the oil pan came from. My motor came without oil pan. I wonder if yall rebuild transmissions on this page
The long bolts are something that you could pick up from a salvage yard. I did rebuild an AX15 5 speed transmission on this channel as a part of my current Jeep restoration project. There is a Playlist with the videos in that series. Here is a link... ru-vid.com/group/PLo32GavtEb9RA78vGwpiFwhXSvIvHdmPG
I think these things break exhaust manifold is because they are "bottomed out" in the aluminum heads and have no where to expand during a heat cycle. Just my theory though
Idk...seems like it's a common issue with any 4.8 or 5.3 over 50k. Possibly overtorqued manifold bolts from factory plus the heat just weakens the bolts over time. My guess.
No complex mathematics required. You should consider picking up a good Rebuild manual that describes the steps in detail. Here is the one that I used. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
Shawn C The manual the I followed mentioned to beware of damage done to threads when using impact wrenches, so we decided to go old school. I have all the power tools you would ever need. Just not on this project. Your not the first or last to comment on this. Oh well, This was my build. 👍
Because of the strength that was found in the "4 Bolt Mains" (an old school term). The engineers included 6 bolt main in the design of Gen 3 and up blocks.
You can use Air and Electric tools to do all this work. The manual warned of damaging threads when you're not careful. We elected the "Country Road" tour. Removal... Yes, I would not use one to install. Check with Summit on the manifold bolts.
When I lifted the Knock Sensor caps off, there was standing water around the Knock Sensors themselves. Under the Intake Manifold there is an open space. Water (Rain, Washing the engine) can get into this space. If allowed, it can seep past the KS covers and land on top of the KS. This typically should not happen, but the setup will allow it. This probably is the reason many KS go bad. They short out from water penetration. This is why I put the silicone damn on mine.
Not sure what you are asking or stating here. When you tighten down the Rockers... you need that lifter on the base circle. The method I use will do that. It has nothing to do with a cylinder being at Top Dead Center.
well there's a lot going on in that engine. couple things that were cool to me... when your son pulled those heads they appeared to be soooo light weight haha! I've never been around aluminum heads... and the other is the 6 bolts on those bearing caps! there were 2 on the side right? gonna have to Google knock sensor also! anyway great video man!
Yes the heads are aluminum and are quite light. And yes the bearing caps are attached with 4 bottom bolts and 2 side bolts. Have been ordering all the replacement parts and boy are they expensive for these Gen3 Motors. Hello! Do they thing we are made of money? I keep telling the boys that I am spending their inheritance. Ha!
UCanDoIt2 lol! that's funny! well it doesn't surprise me I don't think they have the support of the after market like the 350 does yet... where are you buying everything from?
Much of the internals (Pistons, Rods, Bearing, Valves and rebuild kit), I am letting the machine shop purchase. Much of that is "Sized" based on where he thinks his work will end up and he needs those parts quickly to measure them and in return make my engine fit them. Much of the external parts (Water Pump, Oil Pump, such) I am getting form Summit, Rock Auto, and Amazon (name brand only).
I was surprised at the pricing of Summit. I had proceed them once and thought they were expensive and related them to "Racing" high dollar parts. I have recently come to the conclusion that they do have good prices and I have bundled items in several different orders to take advantage of their free shipping. I try to always be open minded.
im just wrapping up the afm delete on my 2010 Silverado 5.3 lmg block. I did the cam swap, lifter swap and valley cover swap and had the computer tuned to delete the afm error codes. the kit I got was meant to keep my vvt so its a non afm cam but original type single phaser cam bolt. have a few questions. 1, what oil do I use to break in the parts. 2. the oil is completely drained from the block its all in the pan new oil, how do I go about starting the motor without it running too long without oil. 3.. when I put the old original cam and the new cam together I lined both up to the small stud to align the cam sprocket and noticed the lobes were totally different positions from eachother. I put the cam and sprocket on and aligned with crankshaft sprocket and with the heads and springs lifters back on I rotate the motor and nothing hits so its definitely on right but will it fire correctly since the lobes were in different positions and opening/closing different than original cam? thanks in advance
Awesome Build you have going on there! (1) For BREAKIN OIL, it was recommended to me to use a "Non-Detergent" Oil. I shows what I used in one of the Build Videos. (2) Some people disable the engine form starting and then turn it over many time to allow the oil pump to begin flowing oil. Many people (because they pre-oiled the pump) will just run the engine and allow it to quickly catch up. You should find some way to determine when the system is primed (Valve covers off and inspect is one way). (3) When I first read this one, I said ouch! Because the new Cam is a different grind/spec, you should see a slight different in position when you have both cams next to each other and indexed the same. If they are way off, there could be an issue. I would suggest "Degreeing your Cam". Look that up on RU-vid of Google. There is a process that is not difficult, but somewhat complex where you are Verifying that the Cam is Ground and Installed correctly. I believe that the Gen3 and your Gen4 engines FIRE based on the Crank Shaft Position sensor telling the PCM/ECU when the fire the coils. Great idea to rotate the engine and check for interference. Hope this helps. This was my first Gen3 rebuild, but I learned so much. I would live to see the insides on the VVT on yours! Chees and hope this helps. Maybe someone smarter than both of us can share other opinions. Cheers! Mike
Would it be beneficial to do a compression test prior to complete strip down and rebuild? Or do we assume you will be able to see/correct any issues related to compression when the machine shop gets it?
My thoughts.... If you have (or have access to borrow) the equipment to do a compression test, it would be a neat thing to do. If it identifies a bad cylinder, you can focus a little attention to that area and critique it for the cause of the issue as you are tearing the engine down. Ultimately, it will not have much bearing on the outcome as any leak around the rings is going to be resolved with the Bore/Hone and new Rings. Any leak in the heads (valve seating and valve stems) will be resolved if you are having the head rebuilt. If you were to do a preliminary compression test and the result indicated Great compress, it may influence some of your choices during the machining process, especially on a budget build. Cheers!
Yes! The original Flex Plate (which I do not plan to use) is still mounted on the crankshaft. I am using a very large flat blade screw drive and creating leverage against one of the Engine Stand mounting sleeves.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Perfect. (Duh, why didn't I think of that). Thank you a million times for this video series, you are the best! I'm tearing down an LM7 I just found on Sunday.